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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 26, 1905)
89 THE SUJNUAr OKiSttUiSlAN, PQBTLATO, FEBRUAJxY ZO, l&OtT. 7 7Sr A? , Ovk X 07 77 7 JXl A JS" - fff llafewOtil Abe bust Is inclined to spread away under r"- II L , JMj I VrffffNUPrTffi thc arms the cheat of thc bod,ce shou,d I " llJlSj I Wjjjp SC1S a3 hISh 38 Cmf0rt Sj,' fe?,!:5 1 I ' ) walstedoth 38 .... mWM f ,. n- ic . tTtvt the "" 18 easiest and most ,t!sfac- - H MM ftC Flannel Blouse with Stitched Yoke. HERE if a flannel blouse finished with i stitched yoke before and behind, having a little cap on each side, in in front and back, and on the sleove. A deep plait Is beneath each cap in front and back, and one In the middle of the front. Straight collar, trimmed with a reproduction of the yoke. Tho sleeve slightly bouffant, with large plait caught in the deep cuff finished with a tab liko thc yoke caps. The pattern Is composed of six pieces front, back, front yoke piece, back yoke, sleeve, cuff. Thc back is cut double, without seam, the middle of the back placed the length of the goods, the front of the yoke and the cuff are cut crosswise in the goods; the back of the yoke Js cut double, with out a scam: the sleeve is also cut with out a seam. Leave three Inches around each piece of thc pattern to allow for seams. Thc yoke, collar, and cuffs may be lined, but otherwise the blouso re quires no lining. After cutting thc pattern, pin the body of the corsage to thc yoko and make a first trial. See that thc plaits lie. perfect ly and that they fall continuously from thc caps of the yoke. Make the little col lar of flannel, line it and attach thc small upper piece with two tabs. Cut the sleeve with a plait about three inches deep. This plait should be attached so as to prolong exactly the cap on tho shoulder. Gather the base of the sleeve except tho plait, and fasten into the. cuff. Fasten the cuff with little buttons. as is consistent with comfort. Often they have a little turned-back cuff of velvet. and occasionally a linen cuff Is seen. The shirts are beautifully fitted, tight at the back and sides, 'with a becoming full ness across the fisure in " front, little pouched, and mostly finished with a suede belt, held in place by slides, in all varieties of color can these shirts be worn. Beautiful examples in pastel pink and blue are trimmed with velvet or kid buttons of a deeper shade, and a touch of black embroidery or fancy braiding Is an effective feature. How to Make Empire Chemises Some Novelties in Sleeves SLEEVES strike a note of novelty. They are slightly fulled In on the shoulder, giving a square effect, and from the elbow; to the wrist they are as tight, "THB vogue of empire chemises brings I many charming patterns to light. many of them as simple as they are charming. The little empire chemise of olden times. with Its gulmpes of lace and llnon em broidery and moussellne do sole or tulle accessories, with elaborate epaulets and befrllled sleeves, was bothersome to tuck into the corset, at Its best creating an ungraceful and unwelcome thickness. Today these pretty, yet clumsy. cea tions have evolved Into soft, adaptablo models, which make them popular for the ball toilet and for the dcml-dccolletes and other effects, worn at the concert. theater, and at dinner. Thc shoulder pieces are nearly all de tachable, so that they can be rejected when need be. They consist of a ribbon which passes through the edging and Is knotted in the shoulder, or a lace inser tion bordered with embroidery or lace, Some laces are put in plain, others, like the valenclenncs, are applied in dainty flower effect. The "body of thc chemise takes on two forms. The one is perfectly straight, like five of the models shown.' The other Is curved slightly to the figure beneath the arm. In thc latter case the garniture en circles the armholc and the shoulder pieces are made larger and shorter. These chemises arc higher than the others, and please the gentlewoman who finds the pure empire model too decollete. The trimmings arc most varied. Some times embroideries are made on the same material; sometimes insertions or motifs of lace are used as Incrustations: some times insertions are gathered on large bands. The four empire designs shown present different models, which can be varied with ease. In thc first, broad valen clenncs insertion Is separated by a band of llnon of tho same breadth. A second band, ornamented In tho center with fan cy stitching, supports the lace which runs around the top of the garment. Tho shoulder pieces are made with a band of linon. edged with lace. If the trimming is to be simplified, use just one band of Insertion. It would be at tractive to dispose a band of wheels and lozenges alternated in lace or guipure. Thc shoulder pieces arc attached with fairy invisibility to the casual observer. The garnitures in the second figure arc easily managed. They consist of four rows of Valenciennes insertion separated by narrow fancy tape, which consolidates them. It would be equally pretty to re place the second and fourth rows by some dainty bow of embroidery or by bands of llnon, whose sheer plainness would contrast effectively with the trans parent lace. Far more elegant than this is the chemise shown in the fourth sketch, which shows a handsome embroidered edge, cut by little apertures, throuch which Is threaded a ribbon. Five tucks ingeniously conceal the fastening of tho trimming to the chemise. It Is done by invisible stitching under the last tuck. A fancy braid with square figures bor dcrs thc lace insertion which forms tho center of thc shoulder pieces, and also encircles the chemise below tho tucks. Deep light lace is placed above thc em- Lbroldered edge of thc decollete and a rain around the shoulder pieces, if you are handy with an embroidery needle this model will offer a charming piece of work without much labor or be the Inspiration for original adaptations that arc simpler. In the fourth model is seen a simple insertion of embroidery to which the chemise is gathered with a little graceful fullness. The same faces the shoulder straps, and all are edged 'with narrow lace. In the first model of the fitted chemises a square neck is outlined, with cmhrold cr through which run's a ribbon, lace edges the sleeve and neck. In the second an elaborate design is undertaken. A half V is cut out of the chemise proper and filled In with alternate rows of insertion and embroidery. In. the third seven clusters of tucks alter nate In the front of the garment with beading embroiders'. Those with the fifth empire effect are complicated for any save an expert, but show the variety of design that tempts the maker of the modern empire chemise. A Little Lesson in Trying On IT Is after all the cutting and all the sewing have been done that the brave little house dressmaker's most depress ing momenta sometimes come in the try ing on. Some peculiarity In thc figure of thc one who is to wear her handiwork is often responsible for lack of perfect fit despite careful measuring and all care in tne after process. Tho erect figure with short back and full bust may need thc back lowered, and the front lengthened, to take tho shoulder scams farther back; while another class of upright ilgurc. with long, slender, hol low back and waist, may requlro tho back lengthened. "With such figures it needs to be made long, apparently longer than the measures laicen oy ino tape m tho ordinary way Indicate. Tho atnnnintr firuro has a silent bust. long and wide back, and short and narrow front, ana wnnKies wouia prooamy snow across thc bust and under the arm, level nHtw hi ton of the side, and aleo down thc front of the shoulder: whilst thc back would be short-waistca ana iorm large wrinkles across, also at level of side, though the length may still be seen pushed up to tne ucck, wiucn is mui-u too high for comfort Thc fitter can either take out the little waist seam In y,a iinintr to ralpe the waist line of tho tront where it joins the side pieces; or the dress can oe waaaea wen arouna me armholcs and down the hollow front. Wadding is a great boon to hollow-shouldered or spare-chested people, who, with out its use, have to choose between un tAi' an untlirhtlv wrinkles down the front shoulders or a dress painfully tight across the cnest irom arm to arm. All large, matronly figures, whether well or HI formed, have short sides and large shoulders, and generally have les3 hollow at thc front of thc waist than the younger, slight figures. "With such figures the fronts will wrinkle across be tVia rlnrtK. nnd also between the orto onA front edces unless thev are either thrown out In tho drafting or let out in tho Qtting-on tor arout najr an Inch all the "way from the bust to tne bottom of the bodice. This should be done of course without altering the" shape of the fronts, care being taken to preserve the run of the lines in evsry other respect. Such figures require a fair-sized cross-scam or dart at the bust in the lining only. Where If thc dress is short-waisted at the back It may be either because the waist is toq high that Is, because the house dress maker has cut the back too ehort or be cause tho armhole is too small. If tho bodice is too long or too short- waisted to the extent of half an Inch only, the altering Is easiest and most satisfac tory If made at the shoulders, either by letting down or taking up. If thc required altering Is more than half an inch, .the waist line should be raised or lowered as -well, half of the altering being made at the shoulders and the other half at the waist, and the spring below thc waist run to the new waist line. This lengthening the bodice by dropping it at thc shoulders can be managed. only if the turnings at neck, shoulders and undcr-arm will allow. If they are not large enough, the whole altering must bo made by raising or lowering the waist. Forecast of the Coming Fashions RUMORS of changes fill thc air. but to the initiated everything points to these being evolutionary rather than revolutionary changes To those who have .been observant. Increasingly full and flowing: skirts, pointed and shapely bodices, and reversed sleeves come as a matter of course. The sleeve fulled at the shoulder instead of at tho wrist and the deeply pointed waist belt are the points of view with which fashion is chiefly concerned at pres ent. The waist, indeed, i3 receiving her closest attention, and this is why she has executed such a volte face in sleeves. Broad shoulders make for a small waist, and drooping sleeves ob scured the outline, volla tout! Where all was drooping and, floppy before now all is trim and close fitting. Thc silhouette of tho shape is preserved, and tho admirers of the female form divine are appeased. Tho rucked and swathed bodice, which Is a salient mode of the moment, can be made be coming to both thc thin and the stout figure; but, as we must be slim, if not thin, to be in the fashion, it follows that every one will be thin- who can. and the rest are out of the reckoning. As full styles do not look well in fuzzy materials, fine and soft-faco cloths. cashmeres and soft taffetas will be most in vogue, but the plaid or tartan and small checks will be greatly adopted for skirts for morning wear, with tight-fitting plain black cloth Jacket, cut with a short rounded basque, whilst thc neck is finished with the white linen collar- and tartan tie, which the Parlsienne is delighting to honor. Occasionally the severity of the stiff collar is softened with a nar row band of velvet, finished with some light steel chains in front, fastened round the top. The blouse at present is more truly a shirt or slip. In Its severity and plain cut it is no longer blouse. The truo shirt, tucked or box plaited in front, with plaited cambric frill down the center, and plain sleeves, is again " vp 1 m T i being worn with the costume taiilcur, while the slip, I. e.. the plain blouse which fastens behind. Is much fancied in fine black or Ivory satin cloth, box plaited and held down with little gold or enamel buttons; or. again. In thick white satin or brodcrie anglalse. But no frills or furbelows. Good cut, and the right cut, and rich material and embroidery make the right shirt blouse of the moment. Foulards will bo used this season. but spots appear to be giving place to stripes and checks ot various sises Striped canvases and piques will flsruo among the new blouses. The elbow sleeve, with or without a continuation to the wrist, is apparent on most toilettes de ceremonie. and this means the return of the long glove. Fawns and tans, delicate and- faded greens and pinks, and old lace colors arc all being1 revived by the glovers, whp are not at all averse to the tide of fashion setting their way. The milliners generally get the first look-in with early novelties, for it is possible to air one's new chapeau be fore it would be wise to dare the wind3 of March with Spring costumes. Hero we have a certain novelty, the little indented toque, with tufts of flowers pushed into the curves and twists made by the upturned brim, which requires to be worn at a rakish angle on the head, and shelves up sharply off tha hair at the back, making the back view of. the head long and straight. Collars are extremely high and sleeves extremely tight; that is the dif ference between the blouso of thc pres ent and the blouse of the past. There is no compromise in the matter. Of course, when we come to taffetas, em broideries and laces for afternoon wear It Is a different matter. But the morn ing blouse is severe in outline, tho only idea of softness being an occasional jabot of plaited muslin and lace or a turnover collar of lawn, embroidery or silk. Whether It is becoming- or not, hardness Is thc fashion for morning garb, in direct contrast" to the elab orate afternoon toilets. The Uses of the Family Crest Washington Star. Any man or woman who pretends to be anything In society now sports a famUy crest. He may or may not have had for bears, but thc cre3t is no longer an in signia of blue blood. It can be secured for a price and as the American usually carries any fad to excess, he now out crcsts the titled families or the old world. He has it stamped on hi3 cigarette paper as well as his stationery. His wife has it woven into her table linen. The head of his stables orders it In metal on the harness as well as In the lacquer on the carriage door. It stares at the general public from Jiis lap robe. His son has it stamped on his 9eal ring, and his daughter. If she takes up the new craze for tattoo ing, has it indelibly marked on her anatomy. But the crowning inconsistency of the modern use of a crest Is thc distri bution of dinner favora bearing the crest, not of the recipient, but of the hostess. A man of millions who recently refur nished his ibrary had thc crest "ham mered into the brass frieze of the fire place, and a wholly improbable pair of animals copied from this same crest fur nished thc supports for the andirons. Little Master Millions Is sent forth for his daily walk with the family crest em broidered on his sleeves, where the child of the common people has some Navy or Army design on his $4.98 reefer. Crests on handkerchiefs are by no moans un common, and here the work is done in the most exquisite of convent embroider'. My lady's writing desk Is equipped with brass or copper furnishings hammered in the pattern of her crest. Entire sets of tableware, including gold and silver plate and the most beautiful of glazed china are done to order that their owner may exploit the family crest. Just at present there seems absolutely no limit to the methods for flashing one's crest on less fortunate fellow-meh. One well-known bachelor, who is ex tremely proud of his crest, has a novel pipe racK. The background is a- whole calfskin, in the center of vhlch is burned his crest, and this is surrounded by pipe racks holding smoking equipment from every comer of the zlobe. He who has not a family crest or the price thereof may employ a substitute if he happens to be in college. Here an in signia of his chosen fraternity takes the place of his family crest, adorning the furnishings of his room, his stationery and his cigarette paper, to say nothing of his Jewelry- Easy When You Know HoWi "It's remarkable," said the doctor, "how much excitement a bead, or soma equally small object, can cause when It Is lodged in a baby's nose. This morning, a frantic mother rushed into my office and implored me to extract a bead which her baby had put into Its nose. Impro vising a suitably bent probe from a hair pin I borrowed from the hysterical woman, I succeeded in removing the bead in less time than it would take to count six. And the first thing the wo man said was: " 'Why, I could have done that myself.'" 1
