The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, February 26, 1905, PART FOUR, Page 39, Image 39

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Flannel Blouse with Stitched Yoke.
HERE if a flannel blouse finished with i
stitched yoke before and behind,
having a little cap on each side, in
in front and back, and on the sleove. A
deep plait Is beneath each cap in front
and back, and one In the middle of the
front. Straight collar, trimmed with a
reproduction of the yoke. Tho sleeve
slightly bouffant, with large plait caught
in the deep cuff finished with a tab liko
thc yoke caps.
The pattern Is composed of six pieces
front, back, front yoke piece, back yoke,
sleeve, cuff.
Thc back is cut double, without seam,
the middle of the back placed the length
of the goods, the front of the yoke and
the cuff are cut crosswise in the goods;
the back of the yoke Js cut double, with
out a scam: the sleeve is also cut with
out a seam. Leave three Inches around
each piece of thc pattern to allow for
seams. Thc yoke, collar, and cuffs may
be lined, but otherwise the blouso re
quires no lining.
After cutting thc pattern, pin the body
of the corsage to thc yoko and make a
first trial. See that thc plaits lie. perfect
ly and that they fall continuously from
thc caps of the yoke. Make the little col
lar of flannel, line it and attach thc small
upper piece with two tabs. Cut the sleeve
with a plait about three inches deep.
This plait should be attached so as to
prolong exactly the cap on tho shoulder.
Gather the base of the sleeve except tho
plait, and fasten into the. cuff. Fasten
the cuff with little buttons.
as is consistent with comfort. Often they
have a little turned-back cuff of velvet.
and occasionally a linen cuff Is seen. The
shirts are beautifully fitted, tight at the
back and sides, 'with a becoming full
ness across the fisure in " front, little
pouched, and mostly finished with a
suede belt, held in place by slides, in
all varieties of color can these shirts be
worn. Beautiful examples in pastel pink
and blue are trimmed with velvet or kid
buttons of a deeper shade, and a touch
of black embroidery or fancy braiding Is
an effective feature.
How to Make Empire
Some Novelties in
SLEEVES strike a note of novelty.
They are slightly fulled In on the
shoulder, giving a square effect, and from
the elbow; to the wrist they are as tight,
"THB vogue of empire chemises brings
I many charming patterns to light.
many of them as simple as they are
The little empire chemise of olden times.
with Its gulmpes of lace and llnon em
broidery and moussellne do sole or tulle
accessories, with elaborate epaulets and
befrllled sleeves, was bothersome to tuck
into the corset, at Its best creating an
ungraceful and unwelcome thickness.
Today these pretty, yet clumsy. cea
tions have evolved Into soft, adaptablo
models, which make them popular for
the ball toilet and for the dcml-dccolletes
and other effects, worn at the concert.
theater, and at dinner.
Thc shoulder pieces are nearly all de
tachable, so that they can be rejected
when need be. They consist of a ribbon
which passes through the edging and Is
knotted in the shoulder, or a lace inser
tion bordered with embroidery or lace,
Some laces are put in plain, others, like
the valenclenncs, are applied in dainty
flower effect.
The "body of thc chemise takes on two
forms. The one is perfectly straight, like
five of the models shown.' The other Is
curved slightly to the figure beneath the
arm. In thc latter case the garniture en
circles the armholc and the shoulder
pieces are made larger and shorter. These
chemises arc higher than the others, and
please the gentlewoman who finds the
pure empire model too decollete.
The trimmings arc most varied. Some
times embroideries are made on the same
material; sometimes insertions or motifs
of lace are used as Incrustations: some
times insertions are gathered on large
The four empire designs shown present
different models, which can be varied
with ease. In thc first, broad valen
clenncs insertion Is separated by a band
of llnon of tho same breadth. A second
band, ornamented In tho center with fan
cy stitching, supports the lace which runs
around the top of the garment.
Tho shoulder pieces are made with a
band of linon. edged with lace. If the
trimming is to be simplified, use just
one band of Insertion. It would be at
tractive to dispose a band of wheels and
lozenges alternated in lace or guipure.
Thc shoulder pieces arc attached with
fairy invisibility to the casual observer.
The garnitures in the second figure arc
easily managed. They consist of four
rows of Valenciennes insertion separated
by narrow fancy tape, which consolidates
them. It would be equally pretty to re
place the second and fourth rows by
some dainty bow of embroidery or by
bands of llnon, whose sheer plainness
would contrast effectively with the trans
parent lace.
Far more elegant than this is the
chemise shown in the fourth sketch,
which shows a handsome embroidered
edge, cut by little apertures, throuch
which Is threaded a ribbon. Five tucks
ingeniously conceal the fastening of tho
trimming to the chemise. It Is done by
invisible stitching under the last tuck.
A fancy braid with square figures bor
dcrs thc lace insertion which forms tho
center of thc shoulder pieces, and also
encircles the chemise below tho tucks.
Deep light lace is placed above thc em-
Lbroldered edge of thc decollete and a rain
around the shoulder pieces, if you are
handy with an embroidery needle this
model will offer a charming piece of work
without much labor or be the Inspiration
for original adaptations that arc simpler.
In the fourth model is seen a simple
insertion of embroidery to which the
chemise is gathered with a little graceful
fullness. The same faces the shoulder
straps, and all are edged 'with narrow
In the first model of the fitted chemises
a square neck is outlined, with cmhrold
cr through which run's a ribbon, lace
edges the sleeve and neck.
In the second an elaborate design is
undertaken. A half V is cut out of the
chemise proper and filled In with alternate
rows of insertion and embroidery. In.
the third seven clusters of tucks alter
nate In the front of the garment with
beading embroiders'. Those with the fifth
empire effect are complicated for any
save an expert, but show the variety of
design that tempts the maker of the
modern empire chemise.
A Little Lesson in
Trying On
IT Is after all the cutting and all the
sewing have been done that the brave
little house dressmaker's most depress
ing momenta sometimes come in the try
ing on.
Some peculiarity In thc figure of thc one
who is to wear her handiwork is often
responsible for lack of perfect fit despite
careful measuring and all care in tne
after process.
Tho erect figure with short back and
full bust may need thc back lowered, and
the front lengthened, to take tho shoulder
scams farther back; while another class
of upright ilgurc. with long, slender, hol
low back and waist, may requlro tho
back lengthened. "With such figures it
needs to be made long, apparently longer
than the measures laicen oy ino tape m
tho ordinary way Indicate.
Tho atnnnintr firuro has a silent bust.
long and wide back, and short and narrow
front, ana wnnKies wouia prooamy snow
across thc bust and under the arm, level
nHtw hi ton of the side, and aleo down
thc front of the shoulder: whilst thc
back would be short-waistca ana iorm
large wrinkles across, also at level of
side, though the length may still be seen
pushed up to tne ucck, wiucn is mui-u
too high for comfort Thc fitter can
either take out the little waist seam In
y,a iinintr to ralpe the waist line of tho
tront where it joins the side pieces; or
the dress can oe waaaea wen arouna me
armholcs and down the hollow front.
Wadding is a great boon to hollow-shouldered
or spare-chested people, who, with
out its use, have to choose between un
tAi' an untlirhtlv wrinkles down the
front shoulders or a dress painfully tight
across the cnest irom arm to arm.
All large, matronly figures, whether
well or HI formed, have short sides and
large shoulders, and generally have les3
hollow at thc front of thc waist than
the younger, slight figures. "With such
figures the fronts will wrinkle across be
tVia rlnrtK. nnd also between the
orto onA front edces unless thev are
either thrown out In tho drafting or let
out in tho Qtting-on tor arout najr an
Inch all the "way from the bust to tne
bottom of the bodice.
This should be done of course without
altering the" shape of the fronts, care
being taken to preserve the run of the
lines in evsry other respect. Such figures
require a fair-sized cross-scam or dart
at the bust in the lining only. Where
If thc dress is short-waisted at the back
It may be either because the waist is toq
high that Is, because the house dress
maker has cut the back too ehort or be
cause tho armhole is too small.
If tho bodice is too long or too short-
waisted to the extent of half an Inch only,
the altering Is easiest and most satisfac
tory If made at the shoulders, either by
letting down or taking up.
If thc required altering Is more than
half an inch, .the waist line should be
raised or lowered as -well, half of the
altering being made at the shoulders and
the other half at the waist, and the
spring below thc waist run to the new
waist line.
This lengthening the bodice by dropping
it at thc shoulders can be managed. only
if the turnings at neck, shoulders and
undcr-arm will allow. If they are not
large enough, the whole altering must
bo made by raising or lowering the waist.
Forecast of the Coming
RUMORS of changes fill thc air. but
to the initiated everything points
to these being evolutionary rather
than revolutionary changes To those
who have .been observant. Increasingly
full and flowing: skirts, pointed and
shapely bodices, and reversed sleeves
come as a matter of course. The sleeve
fulled at the shoulder instead of at
tho wrist and the deeply pointed waist
belt are the points of view with which
fashion is chiefly concerned at pres
ent. The waist, indeed, i3 receiving
her closest attention, and this is why
she has executed such a volte face in
sleeves. Broad shoulders make for a
small waist, and drooping sleeves ob
scured the outline, volla tout! Where
all was drooping and, floppy before
now all is trim and close fitting. Thc
silhouette of tho shape is preserved,
and tho admirers of the female form
divine are appeased. Tho rucked and
swathed bodice, which Is a salient
mode of the moment, can be made be
coming to both thc thin and the stout
figure; but, as we must be slim, if not
thin, to be in the fashion, it follows
that every one will be thin- who can.
and the rest are out of the reckoning.
As full styles do not look well in fuzzy
materials, fine and soft-faco cloths.
cashmeres and soft taffetas will be
most in vogue, but the plaid or tartan
and small checks will be greatly
adopted for skirts for morning wear,
with tight-fitting plain black cloth
Jacket, cut with a short rounded
basque, whilst thc neck is finished with
the white linen collar- and tartan tie,
which the Parlsienne is delighting to
honor. Occasionally the severity of
the stiff collar is softened with a nar
row band of velvet, finished with some
light steel chains in front, fastened
round the top.
The blouse at present is more truly
a shirt or slip. In Its severity and plain
cut it is no longer blouse. The truo
shirt, tucked or box plaited in front,
with plaited cambric frill down the
center, and plain sleeves, is again
" vp
1 m
T i
being worn with the costume taiilcur,
while the slip, I. e.. the plain blouse
which fastens behind. Is much fancied
in fine black or Ivory satin cloth, box
plaited and held down with little gold
or enamel buttons; or. again. In thick
white satin or brodcrie anglalse. But
no frills or furbelows. Good cut, and
the right cut, and rich material and
embroidery make the right shirt blouse
of the moment.
Foulards will bo used this season.
but spots appear to be giving place to
stripes and checks ot various sises
Striped canvases and piques will flsruo
among the new blouses.
The elbow sleeve, with or without a
continuation to the wrist, is apparent
on most toilettes de ceremonie. and this
means the return of the long glove.
Fawns and tans, delicate and- faded
greens and pinks, and old lace colors
arc all being1 revived by the glovers,
whp are not at all averse to the tide
of fashion setting their way.
The milliners generally get the first
look-in with early novelties, for it is
possible to air one's new chapeau be
fore it would be wise to dare the wind3
of March with Spring costumes. Hero
we have a certain novelty, the little
indented toque, with tufts of flowers
pushed into the curves and twists made
by the upturned brim, which requires
to be worn at a rakish angle on the
head, and shelves up sharply off tha
hair at the back, making the back
view of. the head long and straight.
Collars are extremely high and
sleeves extremely tight; that is the dif
ference between the blouso of thc pres
ent and the blouse of the past. There
is no compromise in the matter. Of
course, when we come to taffetas, em
broideries and laces for afternoon wear
It Is a different matter. But the morn
ing blouse is severe in outline, tho only
idea of softness being an occasional
jabot of plaited muslin and lace or a
turnover collar of lawn, embroidery or
silk. Whether It is becoming- or not,
hardness Is thc fashion for morning
garb, in direct contrast" to the elab
orate afternoon toilets.
The Uses of the Family Crest
Washington Star.
Any man or woman who pretends to be
anything In society now sports a famUy
crest. He may or may not have had for
bears, but thc cre3t is no longer an in
signia of blue blood. It can be secured
for a price and as the American usually
carries any fad to excess, he now out
crcsts the titled families or the old world.
He has it stamped on hi3 cigarette
paper as well as his stationery. His wife
has it woven into her table linen. The
head of his stables orders it In metal on
the harness as well as In the lacquer on
the carriage door. It stares at the general
public from Jiis lap robe. His son has it
stamped on his 9eal ring, and his daughter.
If she takes up the new craze for tattoo
ing, has it indelibly marked on her
anatomy. But the crowning inconsistency
of the modern use of a crest Is thc distri
bution of dinner favora bearing the crest,
not of the recipient, but of the hostess.
A man of millions who recently refur
nished his ibrary had thc crest "ham
mered into the brass frieze of the fire
place, and a wholly improbable pair of
animals copied from this same crest fur
nished thc supports for the andirons.
Little Master Millions Is sent forth for
his daily walk with the family crest em
broidered on his sleeves, where the child
of the common people has some Navy or
Army design on his $4.98 reefer. Crests
on handkerchiefs are by no moans un
common, and here the work is done in the
most exquisite of convent embroider'. My
lady's writing desk Is equipped with brass
or copper furnishings hammered in the
pattern of her crest.
Entire sets of tableware, including gold
and silver plate and the most beautiful
of glazed china are done to order that
their owner may exploit the family crest.
Just at present there seems absolutely no
limit to the methods for flashing one's
crest on less fortunate fellow-meh.
One well-known bachelor, who is ex
tremely proud of his crest, has a novel
pipe racK. The background is a- whole
calfskin, in the center of vhlch is burned
his crest, and this is surrounded by pipe
racks holding smoking equipment from
every comer of the zlobe.
He who has not a family crest or the
price thereof may employ a substitute if
he happens to be in college. Here an in
signia of his chosen fraternity takes the
place of his family crest, adorning the
furnishings of his room, his stationery
and his cigarette paper, to say nothing of
his Jewelry-
Easy When You Know HoWi
"It's remarkable," said the doctor,
"how much excitement a bead, or soma
equally small object, can cause when It
Is lodged in a baby's nose. This morning,
a frantic mother rushed into my office
and implored me to extract a bead which
her baby had put into Its nose. Impro
vising a suitably bent probe from a hair
pin I borrowed from the hysterical
woman, I succeeded in removing the
bead in less time than it would take to
count six. And the first thing the wo
man said was:
" 'Why, I could have done that myself.'"