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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 26, 1905)
35 'tfHE SUNDAY Ofi'EGONIAN, PORTLAND", PEBRUART ifOS.. JUVENILE GARMENTS SIMPLE AND SENSIBLE First Spring Fashions for Children Are Wonderfully Plain School Frocks. SIMPLICITY is the predominating feature for the first Spring fashions for children, especially in their out door garments. Contrasted "With last year's frilled, Moused and furbelow modes, the models for the approaching season are almost plain to severity. It -would aeem almost as if the little ones them selves had had a finger in the Juvenile fashion pie; but at least the influence of the common-sense mother is easily detectable. The garments are built for comfort and durability and have the additional advantage of graceful lines rather than an. artificial fussiness so out of place in children's clothes. If the small girl of IKS wants to play teter-totter on a board balanced over the back-yard fence, she may do so In her every-day coat without feeling that she will be scolded for crumpling the flounces. Her coat has no ruffles jjot flounces to crumple, and it is made of a serviceable fabric which will not show soil and dust easily. Thin, all-wool flannels In mixtures and plain dark colors and checked and plaid mohairs are the most satisfac tory materials of which to fashion thc early Spring school frocks. Flannel to day has reached a state of perfection not anticipated by the mothers of the lassies who aro wearing it. Time was when a serviceable flannel came only In blue, gray or brown, with an unattractive shade of red for variety, but the present weaves come in almost any shade and mixture, and many of them may be put Into the washtub without shrinking. It Is poor economy to 'select for children's gowns a fabric which will not stand clean ing. Mohair is durable and is not easily snagged, and It has the advantage over flannel of always looking new. Neat little checkered patterns In mohair are made into the old-time sailor suits with kilted skirt and a dickey of a plain, harmonizing color. Cashmere Is gain ing favor as a fabric for Juvenile dresses, but It Is more frequently used for the Sunday-go-to-meeting frock than for an every-day garment. The one-pleco Russian dress with strait plaits from shoulder to hem, and the pretty,- girlish suspender style are the predominating models for school frocks, and, with variations, they are the background o nearly all the smart dresses for Spring. The broad plaits of the Russian dress arc stitched on the edges well below the waist line, where little slats of the fabric hold the leather belt In place. The belts now In vogue for little ones are not of the shiny leather they have worn so long, but of dull leather or euede in as nearly the color of the material as possible. In the better class shops it is possible to obtain skins almost to match any material, and. If not, the leather may be dyed. Russian pony skin, with its dun-colored snots'. Is a favorite leather for fashioning belts. As a general thing, the long coat is most desirable for children, not only be cause of Its warmth, but because it is more childish in outline; but the Spring Introduces a jaunty little reefer for chilly days which has found undeniable favor both with the youthful wearers and their mothers. A dark shado of serge or cheviot or even a broadcloth Is a suitable fabric of which to build a reefer. The coat Is made perfectly plain with a broad, double-breasted front adorned simply with big buttons In two rows. A wine red Is pretty on most children, and, when worn with a big hat and gloves or mit tens to match. It gives the little miss a decidedly smart appearance. Straps may be applied to one arm, after the fashion which still prevails for that trim ming. .Navy and army blue reefers with brans buttons appeal to childish fancy, and are at the same time fashionable and becoming. The coarse weaves In silk are being used very largely for the small girl's coat. A brown model is gathered into a shallow shoulder yoke, which is en tirely concealed by narrow overlapping collars. The fullness at the back is caught in at the waist line by a broad stitched strap of the same material. A fancy silk braid finishes the strap around the edges and also trims the collars and cuffs. This coat Is worn either with a widc-brimmcd, "floppy" hat in cream color or light tan, or with a soft beaver In exactly the same shade of brown. Another silk coat for very dressy wear Is cut sacque-ahape, with a de cided spring in the undcr-arm scam to give ample fullness to the skirt. The sleeves arc evenly full and are finished with a flaring cuff. The shawl collar, epaulettes which mark the shoulders and the cuffs are trimmed with a sheer linen' embroidery In medallion pattern. A wide hat of pllsse silk mull, with trim mings of rose taffetas ribbon and a hair knot of the same shade, add to the pic turesqucness of the little lady who wears this coat. Little girls of fashion will be dressed very much in one color this Spring, from their hats to their shoes and stockings.. Shoe dealers are displaying footwear with tops of almost any color to match fabric of the coat or drcs?, and stockings are obtainable in any shade. For every-day service, a shoe of dull kid is found most satisfactory. The buttons are of a dull finish and the soles arc thick. Not the least enticing argument in favor of this shoe Is that a damp sponge is the only thing needed to clean it. Patent leather for children is not being worn for every day. as mothers find that there is not enough give to it for a child who is run ning about all day. With the suspender dress, .a- variety of gulmpe and shirtwaist models are shown in white and colors. A dress of unusual attractiveness Is cut after the suspender model fram plaid mo hair, with red the predominating color. The skirt ls kilted In broad plaits, and the attached suspender buckle together half the way up with red leather-cover$d buckles and button on to the plain belt with buttons also covered with red leather. The blouse gulmpe Is tucked and closes at the back beneath a box plait. Bishop sleeves with deep turn-back cuffs are also trimmed with small red but tons. Many of the guimpes are finished at the neck with a band; so that white collars may be worn with flawing silk ties. A variety ofy collar and cuff sets, fashioned especially for these littlo dresses are shown in the shops. Leather trimmings as well ap leather collars In Eton shapes are much In vogue for school frocks. Removable shawl and sailor collars, and shields of whlta pique and ecru colored linens are a feat ure.Of the school-child's wardrobe. They are easily detached and laundered, and add a touch of freshness to the little gar ment worn every day. Small boy's fashions show a ten dency toward simple effects, unless the full-edged knickerbockers are contrary to that note. The plain-kneed trou sers have almost entirely dropped Into the background, and the accepted school suit Is made with slightly bloused knee trousers and Norfolk jacket. Blue and brown serges are worn with belts and ties, either in the same -tone or In strongly contrasting color. The same leather belts worn by his sister with her Ruaaian drera is what Master Schoolboy wears with hi3 Norfolk coat. Broad ties are much in vogue and are pulled outside of the Spring reefer, except by the boy who would be grown up and likes to hide any accessory which savors of glrldom. Shirt blouses ot cotton cheviot finished with only a band at the neck are shown with Norfolk suits. KATHERINE ANDERSON. 9 on M anners t's Country Place. right up to their rooms, where they knew a bite of biscuit and a glass ot wine or a cup of tea would be waiting for them. Always a maid or a man was in attendan'cc when the guest arrived to open up the bags, and Aunt Eleanor re mained only a few minutes with each person so that they might have a bath and dress. I notice that no one ever remains away from luncheon or dinner or Is ever late, and, oh, we do have the jollicst times at dinner when every one is "dressed" and clad also in his most brilliant tem per. And May Van Cott and her fiance are not one bit oh ah, spoony or de votedthey mingle with the rest of us. Just beautifully, though Marjorie was afraid, just the least little, that they might be rather bored when we were around all the time. And last night In the private theatricals which, by the way. Aunt Eleanor left entirely to the management of Marjorie and me we had heaps of fun with May and Mr. Cartrlght. "We, cast them for the lovers' Tolcs. Really, sister mine. I be lieve there Is a strain of histrionic talent In our family, for laying my modesty to one side I really did very well as the vlllalncss. We gave a thrilling . melo drama Just for a variation from "As You Like It" and other Shakespearean plays so often given by amateurs. It was truly funny with our limited stage settings, for, splendid as Idlecrest is. it is not equipped with a bridge which will tumble down the minute the persecuted heroine stands on It; nor has It a convenient moon which shines only on the lovers. There must have been 50 of us alto gether, and Uncle Henry and Aunt Elea nor seemed to see that everyone knew everyone else, so that by the time the theatricals were over and It was time to dance it was like one big, merry house bold. The carriages did not come until 2 o'clock, go you see wo had a good time. We had supper about midnight down In the dining-room, "and then came back to have a few more dances. There were no favors nor programmes, but everyone seemed to dance wjth everyone else, and TJncle Henry always knew just when a girl did not have a dance and sought her out. Not a single wallflower decorated Aunt Eleanor's ballroom last night. And after everyone had gone and Just the 13 of us remained, Dicky and I man aged to be going down the stairs together, when he told me he was going back to Kansas City Wednesday and and wasn't I going to come back pretty soon, too? If you can wait until my next letter I will have a delicious, beautiful secret to tell you. And, really, bettor than any thing else that I have been to In New York, I love house parties. Aunt Eleanor says everyone goes home on Wednesday, and then she win receive some more notes bread-and-butter notes from ' everyone telling her what a splendid time they had and that they arrived home safely. Then maybe I will get a note, too, from Kan sas City, but It won't be "bread-and-butter." In a minute I'll be telling you the secret, so good-bye DOROTHY. TheFinestHandwork Displayed in Aprons CH a demand for dainty aprons O has not been known- during the years I have been In charge," said the head of the lingerie section in a big de partment store. "Our stock has been re plenished several times In the past two months. Women buy not only the film iest of muslins for their own Use, but they provide their maids and waitresses with the finest of gauze and lace aprons for wear when the heavy work Is fin ished." It is undoubtedly true that housemaids are no longer seen with big linen or mus lin aprons after the morning hours. Even waitresses use squares of muslin with lace bibs, and when they do wear big aprons the tie strings are narrow and fastened in a small bow, while the bib Is made of the finest embroidery In upright and di agonal strips and perhaps a frill ot edg ing emSroidery on cither side. With the disappearance of huge tie strings on aprons, large and fussy caps for maids have also taken their departure. IC a servant wears anything on her head it is a very unpretentious bow of white mus lin. Dotted swlss Is the material used in smart aprons for housemaids' wear. The piece below the waistline or the flap of the apron is not over IS Inches long and about 12 inches wide and Is shirred Into the band with very little fullness. The corners aro gracefully rounded and it is finished with a ruffle of the1 dotted swiss or very fine embroidery. The tie strings and strips of the bib, which ex tends half-way up from the waistline, are" also made of dotted swiss. A woman who has her retinue of maid servants uniformed in light blue gingham provides them with tiny aprons made from handkerchiefs having narrow light blue hems. The aprons have a wide ruffle of the blue-bordered handkerchief around the large square below and the small square bib. Dainty little aprons, with rounding corners and hemstitched bor ders, are sold for 35 cents apiece. They have very narrow strings and no bib, but they aro as sheer and smart as any housekeeper could wish. Very wide em broidery Is also used for making maids aprons. Most attractive for cotillon favors are aprons made from crepe, paper with ruffles of paper In gaily flowered patterns. How to Utilize the Left -Over Dishes Timely Hints to Housewives Who Study Economy. EVERY good housewife studies econ omy, but she cannot put this art into practice, without a knowledge of what to do with portions which remain from previous meals. Nor Is she so tact less as to call them left-overs when they come to her table disguised ef fectively In appetizing form. Especially for luncheon and breakfast are the left over dishes toothsome. Giblet Omelette Among the left overs likely to be found In the refrig erator is giblet gravy, remaining from the roast chicken or turkey. A de-? licious luncheon or breakfast dish can be made by utilizing It for filling of a tasty omelette. Unless the gravy is exceptionally thick It will be well to add a little smoothly blended, browned flour and water after reheating. The omelette should be made after the usual manner, the gravy spread over the sur face just before folding And poured around It and on the dish if there la sufficient quantity. Patties of Chicken and Mushrooms The tasty little patty shells which can be purchased ready for use from the baker are helpful In utilizing many left-overs. An entree may be made from a small quantity of cold chicken meat combined with fresh mushrooms in nearly equal proportions. The chicken Bhould bo cut Into dice and sot aside until needed. The mushrooms are best of the small sort, and must be peeled and washed, then placed In a porcelain lined saucepan with butter that has been cut into bits and rolled In flour. Cover tightly and allow to stew on the side of the stove for 15 minutes. For a quarter of a pound of mushrooms U30 half a tablespoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of butter. When tho mushrooms are tender, stir In rich milk, or half milk and cream, using one cup ful for the quarter of a pound of mush rooms. Stir until perfectly smooth, then add the chicken meat and season to taste. Stand over boiling water until thoroughly heated, and put the patty shells on the oven to heat. At the time of serving fill with the mixture and pour the remainder around the platter. Scalloped Mutton Cold mutton is one of the left-overs to cause anxloty to the "housewife. It can, however, be com bined with oysters or spaghetti and made into a tasty dish either for lunch eon or the family dinner. Cut the mut ton into pieces and prepare brown gravy and tomato sauce in separate pans. If spaghetti is to be used, break It into bits, boll until tender, drain and cool. If oysters are preferred, select fresh qnes of only moderate size and drain free from all liquor. Butter a deep pudding dish and fill with layers of the cold mutton, brown gravy, oysters or spaghetti, tomato sauce and brown bread crumbs, repeating in the order given until the dish Is full. Cover the top with bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter, and cook in a moderate oven for half or three-quarters of an hour. Serve In the dish in which it Is cooked. Veal Croquettes Cold roast veal Is one of the easiest of all left-overs to dispose of In toothsome form, but It Is often that the quantity Is limited, In which case croquettes are desirable. One pint of chopped meat means a gen erous number of croquettes, and It can be added to by calves' brains In the proportion of one pair to each pint. Prepare these by soaking In cold water for an hour, freeing from blood vessels and skin, and boiling gently for five minutes in water. Add a pinch of salt, a bay leaf and a tiny onion; drain and stand In cold place. When thoroughly chilled, cut Into very fine pieces and add to the veal, taking care to use a silver knife for the purpose. For the sauce, put one generous tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan and when melt ed stir In two tablespoonfuls of flour and cook together until smooth. Add a gill each of milk and cream, and con tinue stirring until the mixture bolls and Is both smooth and thick. Remove from the fire, add a teaspoonf ul of onion Juice, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, a dash of nutmeg and a large table spoonful of chopped parsley. Add all to the meat, mix thoroughly and stand aside until perfectly .cold. Shape Into croquettes, dip in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry to a nice brown In deep smoking fat. Serve either with cream or tomato sauce. Chicken a la Itallennc A luncheon dish Is made of cold boiled or roast chicken cut Into dice until there is a sufficient quantity to make one pint. Put into a frying pan one tablespoon ful of butter, and when sufficiently melted add one tablespoonful of flour and stir vigorously until smooth. Then add one gill of stock and one of rich cream, and again stir until the mixture boils. Remove from tho fire and slowly add the chicken, twelve drops of onion juice and salt and pepper to taste. Mir thoroughly until smooth, stand over a pot of boiling water until heated. Dish neatly on a platter and sprinkle over the top with the yokes of hard boiled eggs which have been carefully passed through a fruit press. Tho dish may be garnished with slices of thin lemon or parsley, and deco rated at each corner with a spray of watercress. Jellied Game Pass the meat lluough a chopper and make a stock from the bones with an addition of a stalk of celery. A sprig of parsley, a bay leaf and a slice of lemon. Boil slowly for two hours, then strain and pour over gelatine which has been softened in cold water. Mix with the meat, season to taste and pack in cylindrical cans, taking care that there Is enough of the liquid to mix well with the meat. Stand on left" until per fectly cold, then cut into slices about thrc;e-quarters of an -inch thick. Ar range on lettuce leaves and press stiff mayonnaiso dressing through a fancy tube over the top. Place a pitted olive or a canned pimento in the cen ter of each. Chicken Souffle For this dish either boiled or toast fowl may be utilized. Pass the meat through a chopper and, for one pint, make a half pint of sauce and allow the whites of four eggs. The sauce is the fa miliar recipe- made with a tablespoon ful of butter, one of flour and half a pint of milk. Cook tho butter and flour together until smooth, add the milk and stir until the mixture bolls. Add tc the chicken meat, season to taste and stir in the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into a buttered baking dish and cook in a moderate oven for 15 minutes. Russian Salad Cold vegetables make the left-overs which occur most often. By mincing several sorts to gether, a salad can be concocted at a trifling cost. Potatoes and carrots cut into cubes and mixed with peas and string beans In equal proportions, with half the quantity of sliced beets, makes the best of all combinations. But as so many vegetables are not always available at one time, various changes may be made. In any case, the vege tables should be quite cold and then mixed with French dressing and placed on ice for an hour or more be fore serving. Then arrange on lettuce leaves, cover with mayonnaise dress- ing and garnish with hard boiled eggs, the whites cut into bits and the yolks passed through a vegetable press. Cold-Storage of Fruits. Kansas City Journal. The cold storage of fruit has grown to large proportions, nearly 3,000,000 barrels of apples having been stored in the'United States duHng the last Winter as a result of Investigations during the last year. It is found that the condition In which the fruit is grown' and the manner of handling it determine to a large ex'tent its-keening quality and ultimate value.
