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About Eugene daily guard. (Eugene, Or.) 1904-1924 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 21, 1922)
Pap Six ,r THE EUGENE DULY GUJED A H I'l .1 THE MODE INDULGES ITS PENCHANT FOR SIMPLICITY . IN MANY CHARMING WAYS i i i .. Models That Lessen the Exactions of the Straight-Line Frock One-Piece Dresses Follow the Line of the Greatest BecomingnessJ By MAUDE HALL THE mode .continues to Indulge its penchant for simplicity of line and emphasizes beauty of execution. New models from Paris are loyal to the straight tine, but they lessen its exactions. The walst-Une shows a tendency to return to normal The lengthened waist -line and the lengthened skirt make a division between the hips and the ankles that onty a splendid figure can carry with Justice, so Fashion seems to be trying to effect a readjustment of this matter, . ' Despite the reaction against black, It is returning to favor and from all reports intends to contend for first place among fashionable colors. Lovely frocks of black crOpe roma slid Bengal crepe arc among the newest designs. One of extreme sim plicity has a two-piece gathered skirt at tached to the lower edge of a bodice with square neck and an inserted vestee. A casing is stitched underneath the dress above the top of the skirt, with elastic inserted to hold in the fulncBs. There are deep revers, which may be cut off just above the waist-line, or which may con tinue to the hem of the skirt, being slashed Lesson In Home Dressmaking Design for Two-Piece Closed Drawers Made of Nainsook and Trimmed with Embroidery NOW that petticoats are so often re placed by bloomers, this design for a pair of drawers is of particular in terest Soft materials, such as nainsook, longdotb, crepe de Chine or tub satin, should be used for the development of the model, which reqiures iH yards of what- v .' .". tMMotocmr N21S421 ... on line of small "o" perforations and stitch I inch from folded edge. Insert a tape, or clastic through the hem to hold in the fulness. Turn the lower edge of drawers under on small "o" perforation for a hem, or, if there is to be hemstitches, CUTTING GUIDE 1 1 19 Showing' SMALL Si ''1119 Model for Closed Drawers 4 ver Is selected, at least 40 Inches wide. To properly cut the drawers, place an open width of the material on the cutting table, as Is shown In the cutting guide. The large "O perforations should rest on a lengthwise thread of material. If the pattern b carefully placed on the ma terial as illustrated, there can lie no mis takes. It preferred, the embroidery may worked before the drawers are cut. As long as there are no widths or to be stretched out of proportion, lamaser, it Is quite as acceptable to work the embroidery afterward. It adds to the daintiness of the drawers have the hems hem-stitrhed. First the leg seam as notched. Close cen seam, from upper edge In front to upper edge at back. The front is indi rated by line of Urge "0" perforations. .Tuni the upper edge of the draven under . 5ELVAGEJEDGK 1 A DRAWEF. OOO. MATERIAL OPtN 40 IN, WIDE. Patented Apnl 30. 1907 pull the first thread at a depth from the edge that the hem is to be turned under. The embroidery is worked in eyelet, raised satin and outline stitches. CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 1119 J DRAWERS ' - J at the waist-line for the soft girdle of self material to pass through. One finds a plenty of color, however, and it is of the most charming tone. Belts, bows and buttons are the season's color extravagances, but more moderation is expressed in gowns. A frock designed for stout as well as slender figures is in periwinkle and tan check material, com bined with tan erf pe. The side panels on on the skirt and the deep collar are edged with picot points of the crCpe. The waist closes at the left Bide edge of the inserted vestee. The back extends over the shoul ders, joining the gathered shoulder edges of the front. Another model equally impartial in its becomingness is designed of striped cotton eponge and made to bo worn with separate blouses. The front is deeply slashed and bound with braid, this trimming being re peated on the large armholes and the pockets.' The belt is a colorful affair in suede with a buckle equally as spirited in tone. The shoulders arc quite long and the neck edges are caught together under the round collar of the plain white dimity blouse. The most dangerous rival of black is brown, and the nearest competitor of brown is navy or midnight blue. For afternoon and indoor wear, sand, beige and nude are exceedingly fashionable col ors, both here and abroad. In making up end-of-the-scason frocks which must do duty for early Full, it is advisable to select one of the many new blistered fab rics, for there is no doubt that they arc going to be extremely de rigcur. They arc handsome made into one-piece dresses and are seen also in smart separate skirts accompanied by blouses of cripc de Chine, crfic Georgette, pussywillow silk, etc One never gets very fur from the crtpes, for some new variety constantly seems to be putting In an appearance. Drown faille crepe may be made into an adorable frock for semi-formal wear after a model that has a waist with V-shaped neck and ap plied front that closes on the left side. The attached two-piece skirt also closes at the left side-scam. It has gathered side tunic sections which fall in xim at the fmnt ond which may lie finished with a hem-stitched hem, or with picoted edues The exception to the rule of the straight- line one-piece irocic is louiui in me omm coniixxrd of skirt anil blouse, which may be worn separately !. The season otters a niimlK-r ot unusually anmciive nuxiris. In one the blouse, of Kind color pussv willow taffeta, closes in front through an applied plait band. The Kick of the blouse extends over the shoulders, where it ioined to the anthered fronts. I my frills of self-material outline the collar, cuffs and plait at the front through which the Dlonse lastens. The skirt is of a simple, elegant style and mav be developed in a variety of fabrics. Serge, tricotine, tweed, sports satin, etc., are all in gixxl taste anil may lie had at moderate cost. I he skirt h. a 2-inch raised waist-line and closes at the left side-scam. There are gathers across the luck anil at each side ol the trout uore. There arc inserted ix-kcts, which may be substituted for patch pockets, or Two styles of flowing sleeves are pro vided in a straight-line frock of light weight serge combined with satin ribbon. One style reaches almost to the wrists, and is slashed above three times, the opening be ing bound with the ribbon. The second style is elbow length, simple finished with a hem. A turn-down collar finishes the V-shaped neck and is edged with blanket- stitch embroidery) to match the sleeves. Below the waist-line, front and back, the dress is cut out and gathered to straight waistbands, over which the ribbon side,- belts are arranged. Trimmings make man v frocks asnuaintlv and picturesque as an old-fashioned minia ture. As has been hinted before, they are all exceedingly colorful. The same hues are used over and over red, yellow, blue, green, rose and black but they are used in such a variety of clever ways that they always seem new EMBROIDERIES ONE WILL TAKE PLEASURE IN MAKING Charming Flower Representations That Add to The Interest of Little Things in Dress , GOLD AND SILVER FISH The average 1 en nth of life of these orna mental fish is 10 to t2 years. They may be kept in class bowls or globes, and if young aim healthy when procured, win ive that length ol time by the observance ot a tew rules and regulations. Allow one fish to each quart of water. Use the same kind of water all the time. Choose the supply and use it constantly. Change water every day and frequently wine the ulobe to remove any slime or dirt. Use deep vessels with clean pebbles at bottom. Keco them where there ts light and air. but not in the sun. The fish should be nearly of a size, else the larger ones may kill the smaller. Use a small net when removing them to change the water. - Diseased KoUlhsh will come to tne top of water for air and often make a clicking noise. 1 hey should be removed to a sepa rate bowl. Don't shake the globe violently. These fish are susceptible to noise and it might kill them. A oreoarcd wafer is sold bv dealers. which suits them Iwtter than any other food. If thev cannot le obtained, a tea- spoonful of very small, dried bread cruml given once a day to every 10 hsh is suffi cient. They find sustenance in the water. If the water ever looks turbid, change it immediately. CREAMED EGGS WITH SARDINES Melt Vi cupful of butter in a saucepan. add l4 cupful of fine stale bread crumbs and slowly I cup of thin, hot cream or top milk, stirring meanwhile; bring to the I wiling point and add 2 hard-cooked rggs finely chopped and I large box or 1 ! small boxes of sardines that have Iwcn skinned, tinned and finely mi. iced. Heat again to the boiling point and arrvc at once on hot buttered rounds of toast. Sprinkle with I tcasiwonltil of finely chopped parsley. Serve hs the main dish at luncheon or for Sunday night supper. I COOKED SALAD DRESSING Sift together t tablespoonful salt, H tablespoon. ul mustard, 2 tables poonfu Is of sugar, n few grains of cayenne and 1 table spoonful of cornstarch: add the yolks of 4 slightly beaten eg$s, vi cupful ot melted butter, i cupful of mi'k and very slowly l.i cupful of vineg.ir diluted with 2 table sixioimu ot cold water. timng constantly until well blended. Cook in a double boiler i:ntil mixture thickens, stirring the first five minutes, afterward occasionally. Cool nnd thin with errant to tlte consist ency to pour, Iwfore using. It takes but a few minutes to cook this dressing, s By Mona Mullen " A little touch of needlework, . A little dab of paint, Are tasks that none would think to shirk To make a trimming quaint. Rhyme of the Art Embroiderer. SOME of the most wonderful things in the way of accessories this season are achieved with touches of needle-work" and "dabs of paint," but the painting is also done with the needle and colorful silk and cotton threads. Just now applique1 embroideries are the rage. They arc used on frocks and sometimes frills waists, hats, bags, collars, clothes for children and for al most any purpose that an artistic fancy might conceive. The work is simple, but the effect is always picturesque and beautiful. Take, for instance, the design illus trated. There are four different motifs, two of each being given in the pattern, with two reverses of each. The first flower is made of organdy, satin, beige, or any of the light shades of tan being appropriate. The edges are button holed in red, but the selection of a color would de))end largely upon the back ground of the embroidery. Six-strand cotton is used, all of the six strands be ing threaded into the needle. A cov ered button forms the center. The leaves are embroidered on the back ground with flat satin stitch, outline being used for the stems, IV ... In flower No. 2. the laree petals may be made of lavender gingham or or gandy, and the small ones of lavender and white check material. Very Biroll checks should be selected, however. The edges are embroidered in blanket stitch, while the lines representing the stamen are in Mille fleur stitch: Satis and outline stitches form the leaves and stems respectively. The third flower is made of pink and white gingham, edged with blanket stitches in black. Number 4 is mori elaborate, being made of three shades of lavender and worked with stitches in thi sa me color. The center is made of black in raised satin stitch, French knots being used for the stamens. The leaves, which are worked on the background, are io Hat satin and outline stitch. All 01 tm flowers stand out from the background. CODFISH SPANISH STYLE Pick nver sat mHRah and SCDaratt in small bits; there should be I cuplul. Cover with hot water and let soak until soft; then drain. Cut cold boiled pota toes in thin slices (it will require 4 01 5 medium-sized potatoes). Arrange them in alternate layers in a buttered baking dish, sprinkle layers lightly with salt and pepper and cover fish layers with a layer of finely cut pimientos. (Drain 2 pimientos from the liquor in the can, rinse with cold water, dry be tween the folds of crash towels and cut in fine shreds, using scissors for this purpose.) Repeat until all are used. Pour over 1 cupful of tomato sauce and cover top with a layer of buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown. to 46 to 4 to 4" DATE TEA CAKES Twenty-four dates, 12 marshmal lows, 2 cupfuls flour, 4 teaspoonfuls baking powder, H teaspoonful salt, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 tablespoonfuU butter, H to cup milk, 1 egg yolk, H cupful chopped almonds. This makes about 24 cakes. M"! pits from dates and replace with hall a marshmallow. Sift flour, baking powder, salt and sugar together. Lut in butter with knife or rub in with tips of fingers. Add milk and mil. K out to W inch thickness and cut uiW rounds.' In the center of each rouna place a stuffed date. Moisten edges and fold lA over the other. Brush tops with beaten egg yolk and sprinkle ita nuts. Place in greased pan and bans in hot oven, about 15 minutes. KEY TO ILLUSTRATIONS The fashions shown on this page wt Pictorial Review designs. Numoers and sizes are as follows: . Dress No. 1131. Sixes, 34 "u" inches bust. Price, 35c. Dress No. 1144- Sites, J4 to S inches bust. Price, 35c Dress No. 1 158. Sixes, 34 inches bust. Price, ssc. Dress No. 1160. Sixes, 34 inches bust. Price, 35c. Dress No. 1121. Sixes, 34 inches bust. Price, 35c , Blouse No. 9870. Sirea, 34 " inches bust. Price, 30c , 4 Skirt No. 1051. Sixes 34 to 4 "W bust, rnce 30c. ci- Ladies' Draw.ra No. It 19. small, medium, largs.1 Price, JOC (Lesson in JJressmalting.) n.M Applique Embroidery No. . Transfer, blue or yellow, 20 cent.. h nishes 2 and 2'reveiWs of eaitl four motifs. " . m ' ' , Pictorial ReviewTatteWpa !' local agents.. . . No. UU9 Art Embroidery ArraysJts Happiest Effects in Florfersol Applique . . . . .. 1 ... . . ... l 'i
