Pap Six
,r THE EUGENE DULY GUJED
A H
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THE MODE INDULGES ITS PENCHANT FOR SIMPLICITY . IN MANY CHARMING WAYS
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Models That Lessen the Exactions of the Straight-Line Frock One-Piece Dresses Follow the Line of the Greatest BecomingnessJ
By MAUDE HALL
THE mode .continues to Indulge its
penchant for simplicity of line and
emphasizes beauty of execution. New
models from Paris are loyal to the straight
tine, but they lessen its exactions. The
walst-Une shows a tendency to return to
normal The lengthened waist -line and the
lengthened skirt make a division between
the hips and the ankles that onty a splendid
figure can carry with Justice, so Fashion
seems to be trying to effect a readjustment
of this matter, .
' Despite the reaction against black, It
is returning to favor and from all reports
intends to contend for first place among
fashionable colors. Lovely frocks of black
crOpe roma slid Bengal crepe arc among
the newest designs. One of extreme sim
plicity has a two-piece gathered skirt at
tached to the lower edge of a bodice with
square neck and an inserted vestee. A
casing is stitched underneath the dress
above the top of the skirt, with elastic
inserted to hold in the fulncBs. There are
deep revers, which may be cut off just
above the waist-line, or which may con
tinue to the hem of the skirt, being slashed
Lesson In Home Dressmaking
Design for Two-Piece Closed Drawers Made of
Nainsook and Trimmed with Embroidery
NOW that petticoats are so often re
placed by bloomers, this design for a
pair of drawers is of particular in
terest Soft materials, such as nainsook,
longdotb, crepe de Chine or tub satin,
should be used for the development of the
model, which reqiures iH yards of what-
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N21S421
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on line of small "o" perforations and
stitch I inch from folded edge. Insert a
tape, or clastic through the hem to hold
in the fulness. Turn the lower edge of
drawers under on small "o" perforation
for a hem, or, if there is to be hemstitches,
CUTTING GUIDE 1 1 19
Showing' SMALL Si
''1119
Model for Closed Drawers
4
ver Is selected, at least 40 Inches wide.
To properly cut the drawers, place an
open width of the material on the cutting
table, as Is shown In the cutting guide.
The large "O perforations should rest
on a lengthwise thread of material. If
the pattern b carefully placed on the ma
terial as illustrated, there can lie no mis
takes. It preferred, the embroidery may
worked before the drawers are cut.
As long as there are no widths or
to be stretched out of proportion,
lamaser, it Is quite as acceptable to work
the embroidery afterward.
It adds to the daintiness of the drawers
have the hems hem-stitrhed. First
the leg seam as notched. Close cen
seam, from upper edge In front to
upper edge at back. The front is indi
rated by line of Urge "0" perforations.
.Tuni the upper edge of the draven under
. 5ELVAGEJEDGK
1
A
DRAWEF.
OOO.
MATERIAL OPtN 40 IN, WIDE.
Patented Apnl 30. 1907
pull the first thread at a depth from the
edge that the hem is to be turned under.
The embroidery is worked in eyelet,
raised satin and outline stitches.
CONSTRUCTION GUIDE 1119
J DRAWERS
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at the waist-line for the soft girdle of self
material to pass through.
One finds a plenty of color, however,
and it is of the most charming tone. Belts,
bows and buttons are the season's color
extravagances, but more moderation is
expressed in gowns. A frock designed
for stout as well as slender figures is in
periwinkle and tan check material, com
bined with tan erf pe. The side panels on
on the skirt and the deep collar are edged
with picot points of the crCpe. The waist
closes at the left Bide edge of the inserted
vestee. The back extends over the shoul
ders, joining the gathered shoulder edges
of the front.
Another model equally impartial in its
becomingness is designed of striped cotton
eponge and made to bo worn with separate
blouses. The front is deeply slashed and
bound with braid, this trimming being re
peated on the large armholes and the
pockets.' The belt is a colorful affair in
suede with a buckle equally as spirited in
tone. The shoulders arc quite long and
the neck edges are caught together under
the round collar of the plain white dimity
blouse.
The most dangerous rival of black is
brown, and the nearest competitor of
brown is navy or midnight blue. For
afternoon and indoor wear, sand, beige
and nude are exceedingly fashionable col
ors, both here and abroad. In making
up end-of-the-scason frocks which must
do duty for early Full, it is advisable to
select one of the many new blistered fab
rics, for there is no doubt that they arc
going to be extremely de rigcur. They
arc handsome made into one-piece dresses
and are seen also in smart separate skirts
accompanied by blouses of cripc de Chine,
crfic Georgette, pussywillow silk, etc
One never gets very fur from the crtpes,
for some new variety constantly seems to
be putting In an appearance. Drown faille
crepe may be made into an adorable frock
for semi-formal wear after a model that
has a waist with V-shaped neck and ap
plied front that closes on the left side.
The attached two-piece skirt also closes
at the left side-scam. It has gathered
side tunic sections which fall in xim
at the fmnt ond which may lie finished
with a hem-stitched hem, or with picoted
edues
The exception to the rule of the straight-
line one-piece irocic is louiui in me omm
coniixxrd of skirt anil blouse, which may
be worn separately !. The season otters
a niimlK-r ot unusually anmciive nuxiris.
In one the blouse, of Kind color pussv
willow taffeta, closes in front through an
applied plait band. The Kick of the blouse
extends over the shoulders, where it
ioined to the anthered fronts. I my frills
of self-material outline the collar, cuffs
and plait at the front through which the
Dlonse lastens.
The skirt is of a simple, elegant style
and mav be developed in a variety of
fabrics. Serge, tricotine, tweed, sports
satin, etc., are all in gixxl taste anil may
lie had at moderate cost. I he skirt h.
a 2-inch raised waist-line and closes at the
left side-scam. There are gathers across
the luck anil at each side ol the trout
uore. There arc inserted ix-kcts, which
may be substituted for patch pockets, or
Two styles of flowing sleeves are pro
vided in a straight-line frock of light weight
serge combined with satin ribbon. One
style reaches almost to the wrists, and is
slashed above three times, the opening be
ing bound with the ribbon. The second
style is elbow length, simple finished with
a hem. A turn-down collar finishes the
V-shaped neck and is edged with blanket-
stitch embroidery) to match the sleeves.
Below the waist-line, front and back, the
dress is cut out and gathered to straight
waistbands, over which the ribbon side,-
belts are arranged.
Trimmings make man v frocks asnuaintlv
and picturesque as an old-fashioned minia
ture. As has been hinted before, they are
all exceedingly colorful. The same hues
are used over and over red, yellow, blue,
green, rose and black but they are used
in such a variety of clever ways that they
always seem new
EMBROIDERIES ONE WILL
TAKE PLEASURE IN MAKING
Charming Flower Representations That Add to The
Interest of Little Things in Dress ,
GOLD AND SILVER FISH
The average 1 en nth of life of these orna
mental fish is 10 to t2 years. They may
be kept in class bowls or globes, and if
young aim healthy when procured, win
ive that length ol time by the observance
ot a tew rules and regulations.
Allow one fish to each quart of water.
Use the same kind of water all the time.
Choose the supply and use it constantly.
Change water every day and frequently
wine the ulobe to remove any slime or
dirt. Use deep vessels with clean pebbles
at bottom.
Keco them where there ts light and air.
but not in the sun. The fish should be
nearly of a size, else the larger ones may
kill the smaller.
Use a small net when removing them to
change the water. -
Diseased KoUlhsh will come to tne top
of water for air and often make a clicking
noise. 1 hey should be removed to a sepa
rate bowl.
Don't shake the globe violently. These
fish are susceptible to noise and it might
kill them.
A oreoarcd wafer is sold bv dealers.
which suits them Iwtter than any other
food. If thev cannot le obtained, a tea-
spoonful of very small, dried bread cruml
given once a day to every 10 hsh is suffi
cient. They find sustenance in the water.
If the water ever looks turbid, change it
immediately.
CREAMED EGGS WITH SARDINES
Melt Vi cupful of butter in a saucepan.
add l4 cupful of fine stale bread crumbs
and slowly I cup of thin, hot cream or top
milk, stirring meanwhile; bring to the
I wiling point and add 2 hard-cooked rggs
finely chopped and I large box or 1 ! small
boxes of sardines that have Iwcn skinned,
tinned and finely mi. iced. Heat again to
the boiling point and arrvc at once on hot
buttered rounds of toast. Sprinkle with
I tcasiwonltil of finely chopped parsley.
Serve hs the main dish at luncheon or for
Sunday night supper.
I
COOKED SALAD DRESSING
Sift together t tablespoonful salt, H
tablespoon. ul mustard, 2 tables poonfu Is of
sugar, n few grains of cayenne and 1 table
spoonful of cornstarch: add the yolks of 4
slightly beaten eg$s, vi cupful ot melted
butter, i cupful of mi'k and very slowly
l.i cupful of vineg.ir diluted with 2 table
sixioimu ot cold water. timng constantly
until well blended. Cook in a double
boiler i:ntil mixture thickens, stirring the
first five minutes, afterward occasionally.
Cool nnd thin with errant to tlte consist
ency to pour, Iwfore using. It takes but
a few minutes to cook this dressing,
s By Mona Mullen "
A little touch of needlework, .
A little dab of paint,
Are tasks that none would think to shirk
To make a trimming quaint.
Rhyme of the Art Embroiderer.
SOME of the most wonderful things
in the way of accessories this season
are achieved with touches of
needle-work" and "dabs of paint," but
the painting is also done with the needle
and colorful silk and cotton threads.
Just now applique1 embroideries are the
rage. They arc used on frocks and
sometimes frills waists, hats, bags,
collars, clothes for children and for al
most any purpose that an artistic fancy
might conceive.
The work is simple, but the effect
is always picturesque and beautiful.
Take, for instance, the design illus
trated. There are four different motifs,
two of each being given in the pattern,
with two reverses of each. The first
flower is made of organdy, satin, beige,
or any of the light shades of tan being
appropriate. The edges are button
holed in red, but the selection of a color
would de))end largely upon the back
ground of the embroidery. Six-strand
cotton is used, all of the six strands be
ing threaded into the needle. A cov
ered button forms the center. The
leaves are embroidered on the back
ground with flat satin stitch, outline
being used for the stems,
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In flower No. 2. the laree petals may
be made of lavender gingham or or
gandy, and the small ones of lavender
and white check material. Very Biroll
checks should be selected, however.
The edges are embroidered in blanket
stitch, while the lines representing the
stamen are in Mille fleur stitch: Satis
and outline stitches form the leaves and
stems respectively.
The third flower is made of pink and
white gingham, edged with blanket
stitches in black. Number 4 is mori
elaborate, being made of three shades of
lavender and worked with stitches in thi
sa me color. The center is made of black
in raised satin stitch, French knots being
used for the stamens. The leaves, which
are worked on the background, are io
Hat satin and outline stitch. All 01 tm
flowers stand out from the background.
CODFISH SPANISH STYLE
Pick nver sat mHRah and SCDaratt
in small bits; there should be I cuplul.
Cover with hot water and let soak until
soft; then drain. Cut cold boiled pota
toes in thin slices (it will require 4 01
5 medium-sized potatoes). Arrange
them in alternate layers in a buttered
baking dish, sprinkle layers lightly with
salt and pepper and cover fish layers
with a layer of finely cut pimientos.
(Drain 2 pimientos from the liquor in
the can, rinse with cold water, dry be
tween the folds of crash towels and
cut in fine shreds, using scissors for
this purpose.) Repeat until all are
used. Pour over 1 cupful of tomato
sauce and cover top with a layer of
buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in a
hot oven until crumbs are brown.
to 46
to 4
to 4"
DATE TEA CAKES
Twenty-four dates, 12 marshmal
lows, 2 cupfuls flour, 4 teaspoonfuls
baking powder, H teaspoonful salt, 2
tablespoonfuls sugar, 2 tablespoonfuU
butter, H to cup milk, 1 egg yolk,
H cupful chopped almonds.
This makes about 24 cakes. M"!
pits from dates and replace with hall
a marshmallow. Sift flour, baking
powder, salt and sugar together. Lut
in butter with knife or rub in with tips
of fingers. Add milk and mil. K
out to W inch thickness and cut uiW
rounds.' In the center of each rouna
place a stuffed date. Moisten edges
and fold lA over the other. Brush tops
with beaten egg yolk and sprinkle ita
nuts. Place in greased pan and bans
in hot oven, about 15 minutes.
KEY TO ILLUSTRATIONS
The fashions shown on this page wt
Pictorial Review designs. Numoers
and sizes are as follows: .
Dress No. 1131. Sixes, 34 "u"
inches bust. Price, 35c.
Dress No. 1144- Sites, J4 to S
inches bust. Price, 35c
Dress No. 1 158. Sixes, 34
inches bust. Price, ssc.
Dress No. 1160. Sixes, 34
inches bust. Price, 35c.
Dress No. 1121. Sixes, 34
inches bust. Price, 35c ,
Blouse No. 9870. Sirea, 34 "
inches bust. Price, 30c , 4
Skirt No. 1051. Sixes 34 to 4 "W
bust, rnce 30c. ci-
Ladies' Draw.ra No. It 19.
small, medium, largs.1 Price, JOC
(Lesson in JJressmalting.) n.M
Applique Embroidery No. .
Transfer, blue or yellow, 20 cent.. h
nishes 2 and 2'reveiWs of eaitl
four motifs. " . m ' ' ,
Pictorial ReviewTatteWpa !'
local agents.. . .
No. UU9 Art Embroidery ArraysJts Happiest Effects in Florfersol Applique
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