The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, September 21, 1919, Image 14

The Oregon daily journal., September 21, 1919, Page 14, Image 14

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Newspaper Page TextIf THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 21. Idl9. 1 PAN MUSIC IS RESPONSIBLE FOR GROTESQUE DANCE Mose Christensen Discusses Dif ferent Ways in Which Terpsi chorean Art Can Be Restored. :FFORT IS TOWARD DIGNITY National School of Dancing Is Advocated as Remedy and Preventive of Various Fads. Prayings of the slide trombone, jangle of cow bells and whanging of the tinpun orchestra must go before the Kroteto.iue and suggestive danc ing which haa been the recent fad will pusa into oblivion, according to the verdict of Portland dancing mas ters recently returned from the Na tional Association of Masters of Dancing in New York. Portland wan represented by A. C. Holmes of the LaurofiiurMt club, O. K. .Mauthe of, the ..Multnomah club and Mose Christensen. wh.p is chairman of the hoard of directors of the Normal Sfliool of Diincing and president of llii' National School of Dancing, which met for its second session this j vear. ' It is the in.pe of the Portland danc- j ii'rg masters to bring the national con- j vention to Portland next year and to In augurate In'-the city a normal school which will be permanent and of value to all teachers of the art. so. that the tcps may be standardized and dancing .vill assume a greater dignity. N ATIONAL SCHOOL URGED Christensen pointed out that tn every civilized country tn the world, except the United States, there Is a national school of dancing. It might take years to perfect one here, but it would not lake more money, he declared, than is low being spent annually by municipal ities on dance halls and musical enter ainments. Perhaps the Russian ballet, r a similar institution, is to be repro luced for America In the new school. "It is not necessary to concentrate on .-lassie music." said Christensen. in 'peaking of the jazz music now so pop jlar for dancing. "But dancing and tiuhW are inseparable. They are each .lie expression of an emotion. If we re to have the clatter of cow bells and .in pans and loud blasts of saxaphones. then the ugly Jumping around which is so distasteful and so hurtful to the dig nity of dancing will continue. A little nore real music would be a good thing." After a three months' survey of the N'ew York theatres and dance halls, tJhrlstensen came to the conclusion that ' he stage and the cafe dancing were the greatest factors in placing the art of lancing in disrepute. POOH DANCKUS BLAMED "In New York." said Christensen. 'you will still see the 'tango the artistic iances and the best .of ballroom danc ng, because there are good dancers there, and the reason we fall out with hese fad dances is not because of the lance Itself, but because of the awk .vard dancers who attempt them and nake themselves ridiculous. The fox trot and the one step and the waltz will ive forever, each as an expression of a iifferent emotion, but the 'shimmy,' which originated in "negro dance halls, ian express no refined emotion and no Jecent portrayal of grace." Arid so with the banishment of the leath clutch, the hypnotic gaze and the 'sissy-boy cling aTfected by some of he gentlemen who ornament the danc .ng floors, charts are to be placed giv- ng the correct pose for dancers, with instructions, directions and a diagram of steps, and soon we shall see the earn est dancer gliding about head up and with preoccupied air murmuring "man's right hand resting above small of part tier's back ; lady's left hand palm down ward on partner's shoulder; lady's right hand in partner's left hand palm down ward," etc. In order to standardize the dancing steps in Portland, a special course for dancing teachers and others has been announced, the classes to be held under the auspices of the Portland Associa tion of Dancing Masters, beginning Monday. The classes will meet daily at the Christensen school. Ballet tech nique, .! to 10 a. m. ; social dancing, 10 :13 to 11 a. m. Tacoma Hints That Graft May Be Found In B($d Building Tacoma, Wash., Sept. 20. (U. P.) Three Tacoma commercial organiza tions and the Western Washington -Au-' tomoblle association today perfected ar rangements for conducting an inquiry on Monday into charges of attempted graft anil collusion in connection with the pending road contracts in this county. The call for bids Is under the author ity of the people of Pierce county, as expressed at a recent election at which 2. 500.000 in bonds were approved. The county commissioners are now iccused of ' framing up" matters so that lhe entire 98 miles of new roads will be built by ojie concern, and that presum ably a company using a patented process. Groceries Hour, Drifted Snow or White River, 4-lb. I0 QC sack DiUU Cocoa, highest quality, 6-lb. cases $2.25, the 1-5 Q lb. cans OC Corn, fancy sweet and tender, case $4.40, doz. 1 Q $2.75. can IVC 3mli White Beans, 13 lbs. $1. 5 lbs 4:UC Parlor Matches, extra Op quality, 6' boxes. ... . OC Soap, Crystal White, 100 C9 bars $6.15. I0'bar$. OuC Meier & Frank's: .... Grocery, Ninth Floor, I SI Autumn Costumes Are Only Half Perfect Without These Corsets Slightly Nipped-in at the Waist from Madame Irene. Intended '-for the wearers of crinoline and pannier frocks. Just a wee bit nipped-in a little higher Paris is advocating them. Paris is also recommending the new boneless corset s models of suede cloth with satin trimming and some of silk tri cot in which " we now have all sizes. New Frolaset front lace cor sets include a model of good elastic webbing with flowered trimming. Meier & Frank's : Third Floor. 1 Silks Miles of New Ones number the new chinchilla me teor, heavy tricolette, gold and silver embroidered satins, plain and printed georgette, printed pussywillow taffeta, chiffon vel vet and plushes. Meier & Frank's : Second Floor. Shoes for Fall Are High to reach the new -skorter skirts. They have military or cuban heels for practical walking and French heels for dress. Some have cloth tops. Dark brown, maple kid and black are the col ors most in demand. Boot ton spats are new they fit over the shoe so carefully that they become a part of the boot itself. Meier & Frank's : Third Floor. Needlework Bead bags and sautoirs made by members of the Art Needle work class are displayed now in the Art Needlework Shop. In struction is free if the mate rials are purchased here. "Hair pin crocet" is particularly good looking and the "hairpin" is shown only at Meier & Frank's Meier & Frank's : Second Floor. Ribbons Have Their Day Metal embroidered ribbons for giiets. Wider brocaded ribbons for sashes and high corsage gir dles. Sashes with embroidered ends. Hairbow ribbons. Two tone picot ribbons. Fancy weaves from which. we willmake men's ties to order. . Meier & Frank's: Main Floor. Umbrellas With Hinged Bracelet Handles are new other novelties are crook handles of pimento wood inlaid with silver. Plenty of bright colors to cheer up. rainy landscapes. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. lgees are of characteristic Eastern silks with elaborately hand-embroidered flowers, birds and oriental symbols. A new im portation is -being shown. Meier & Frank's : Third Floor. Stockings of Lace and Silk Silver gray stockings have, sil ver embroidery and a thread of gold tinsel. Black silk have insets over the ankle of sheer black lace. Black or white silk have white or black embroidery, drop stitch de signs or rretty open-worked "boots." Fine, sheer silk stockings in white or black are also among the latest arrivals. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Handbags Are Some of Life's Pleasant Gifts Straight from Paris, n silver gray pull bag of velvet with steel beads and balls this has a pow der puff attached to the mirror. A Paisley bead bag; a rose bead bag; a black velvet and steel bag; a double box-pleated bead bag and many others. Miser bags too pretty for the name in nasturtium, black and steel, and black and red bead effects. Chiffon velvet bags, for after noon are plain or marvelously decorated with gold brocades and golden rose. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Gl oves with beige colored crepon lining in the long slip-on gauntlet cuffs are among many late arrivals for the opening. Fine suede, mocha, capeskin and exquisite kid gloves with the newer stitchings are also be ing shown. . Chamois slip-on sports gloves are very distinctive. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Fans of Decorative Ostrich Plumes add a marvelously picturesque touch to the evening" costume. Some open and close. Cleopatra fans are five great plumes in a stationary arrangement remind ing one of early Egyptian iays. Black, tangerine, turquoise, sap phire, Pekin blue, orchid, coral, cerise, iade. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Metal Cloths and Brocades Bewilderingly lovely satin back gold, silver and steel cloths; metal brocades, metal laces, and the new printed paulette crepe. For wraps, girdles, bodices and dresses. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Bouquets Boutonnieres of gay little flowers, some with bandboxes to contain them. Also velvety roses, delicate orchids and oth er flowers to be placed in the new perpendicular way on even ing gowns. ' ' Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Neckwear Old ivory tones in charming giiets, berthas, collar and cuff sets, made of novelty chantilly. net top laces, repousse laces, Calais valenciennes and others. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. French Veils Dotted veils and large square mesh, the latter with embroid ered designs are fashionable. New scroll designs. Russian meshes, veils with . deep bor ders which are worn so that the plain mesh screens the eyes. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Perfumes Captivating Ones From Paris Coty, Houbigant, Violet, Bour jois and Rosine (Paul Poiret) are widely represented in the Toilet Goods Shop. Perfumes, toilet water, face powderf soap, rouge and pomade the finest and most original that Paris pro duces. Fascinating gift pack ages are on exhibition. Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. Diamond and Platinum Jewelry A FINE new collection of platinum, and diamond ( Mewelry has been received in time for the autum exposition. 4 Personally chosen from some of New York's fine jewelry manufacturers for its value, its fash ion and its particularly reasonable prices. Effec tive dinner rings have lacy platinum tops and ar paved or set with several larger diamonds. Small solitaire diamond rings" are specialized. En chanting little platinum top watches are mounted on smart ribbon bracelets. 1 Long platinum bar pins and platinum lavallieres have lovely filigree work and many diamonds. People who wish effective diamond jewelry in new approved styles are invited to see these beau tiful pieces. s Meier & Frank's : Main Floor. EVERY window, every floor, every section of the MEIER & FRANK Store will be en fete tomorrow. The center aisle will be a broad avenue of beautiful draperies and glowing lights. From there on all the way to the Furniture Gallery will stretch a m a r v e 1 o u s exhibition of the NEW. New fashions fof women, new fashions for men, new fashions for children, new fashions for the home interestingly displayed everywhere. FASHIONS are more changed this autumn than in the last five years. Paris, the historic center of world fashions, is seething with ideas. One event after another has kept all Paris in constant excitement for the past five years. That excitement reveals itself in the clothes of 1919. SOME of the Paris fashions are delightful. Master pieces inspired by classic styles of the eighteenth century or Oriental in note. Then there are the so called "Eve gowns" extremely short, entire! v sleeve less, entirely backless, low in front never within living memory have evening gowns been so scant. I.N CHOOSING the fashions for this Autumn Exposition,, the MEIER & FRANK ex perts have selected all "Made-in-America" garments. Combined in them is the inspir ation of both Paris and America. Their silhouette is largely Paris. Materials and colors are Paris. Many come from makers who have just returned from Paris. Vet, being interpretations, they are designed especially for Americans and are much less expen sive and less extreme than if they were entirely Parisian. Crinoline or Straight LineS? Asks Paris Since the openings of French dressmakers in August, the world of women has decided to adopt both of these sharply contrasting silhouettes. See how radically dif ferent they appear in the pictures. The ostrich feather dress is of pink taffeta Vith floating voluminous overdress of tulle and four panels of ostrich feathers. The gay young crinoline dress is of rose colored taffeta and tulle with frayed out ruchjng of the silk, in lampshade style and a garland of roses at the waist. The slim serious gown of metal brocade, fox fur and in tense blue satin, with a train half brocade, half tulie. to serve as scarf in dancing.- illustrates the second mode. There is just a note of drapery at the side and the gown tapers toward the ankle in an artistically uneven hem- Suit Coats Are Long and Straight or Long and Flaring or Short and Flaring All three styles are represented in the wonderful col lection of autumn tailored suits here. Suits with fur are .featured but there are also suits without fur. One of the newest anivals has an extra godet at the foot to give more width to the skirt. Another new arrival fastens at the side. A chiffon velvet suit has a tinsel embroidered gilet. Still another has its coat bor dered with gray squirrel an interrupted border. Pannier Gowns Show 18th Century Inspiration A fascinating pannier frock is of blue taffeta with deli cate silver tracery of embroidery all over it and a long spray of red roses and forget-me-nots placed perpendicu larly in the new way at the corsage ; a frosty silver lace underskirt peeps boldly from under the short hem. Blouses of Originality Flower-pot pendants belong to a blouse tunique of dark blue georgette and it has also gold and self-colored embroiderv. Half Crinoline Half Pannier is the frock of aqua marine taf feta with lace embroidered with flowers and threads of gold; the panniers are wired in crinoline fashion, there are floating sap phire blue tulle draperies and a great corsage bouquet. Star Sapphire Brocade forms another marvelous gown which is draped with tulle and has gold lace and strass trim mings. A Silver Brocade Gown for a bride or for a reception has cobwebs of silver lace; the long train which starts at the shoulde is lined with silver cloth; in' front there is a ruch ing at the end of the hipline to give the new effect of fullness. An Exotic Home Dinner Gown is very much on the Poiret type. Made of Moroccan red hatters' plush, very long and straight, with Watteau back, round neck, long sleeves and trimmed with bands of kolin sky. The Bertha Gown is an afternoon frock in one of the new capucine or flame shades with many festoons of coral colored beads. A Hand some Jet Gown is of tulle with the jet arranged in circular stripes instead of all over. It is a beautiful dinner frock. Tricolette Dresses are being asked for in place of satin and important new models have arrived within the last week. Wooden beads, yarn fringe and yam embroilery are the distinguishing notes of a square necked tunique. Huge blue and black plaids on a novelty crepon are seen in an ecclesiastical casaque. Tokio or tomato red georg ette is used under an over blouse of dark blue in a waist line bodice. Gray angora wool stitching forms a deep border on u dark blue tricolette t unique; the girdle is of braided gold with balls of twisted gold thread. Real Italian filet lace trimmed blouses have lust come from a little foreign shop in New York. Hand-made and hand-drawn, fashioned of fine white georg ette. Exquisite. Sumptuous Evening Wraps Black velvet combined with pompadour brocaded faille has a hood collar and huge cuffs of black fox. Black chiffon velvet with gold and silver tinsel stole has Hudson seal cellar. Black chif fon velvet with high choker col lar and large cuffs of mink is combined with gold brocside and gives the barrel silhouette. Brown duvetyn has an Austral ian opossum collar that is so deep it reaches almost to the waistline when the coat Is worn open at the throat. Blue duve tyn with kimono sleeves has deep taure wolf collar and cuffs. Autumn Millinery To Wear With Crinoline and Pannier Frocks as Well as Straight-Line Street Costumes Feathers are triumphantly the fashion. Ostrich plumes, ostrich tips, the exquisite blondine from the South Amer ican ostrich called rhea, cassowary frpm the Australian ostrich, iridescent coque, wing and breast feathers from Oriental birds. Hats flare this season they more often turn up than turn down. Many of them show two eyes and even an eyebrow in their elevation from the face. Many hats are large to go with pannier and crinoline frocks. Small hats are charming with furs and tailored suits and have a place in the mode , all their own. Short Fur Coats High Fur Chokers Beautiful dress coats of mole with lynx Hudson seal with skunk Hudson seal with beav er Japanese kolinsky blend ed squirrel. Also the new, very popular, sports coats of durable Russian pony, marmot, un plucked otter and Japanese mint Most of them are about thirty incites long and enchant ingly young looking as well as warm. x Smart little choker collars, worn with the tail at the left side or in back are of Australian opossum, mole, Hudson seal, nutria, squirrel, fox and Jap anese mink. Meier & Frank's : Fourth Floor. fir A Frank's : Fourth Floor. PSTJ SZTM "ZZZ-ZSer " 111 4aA vfi-TJWf,'k . SffTtTlTUUXi ' ''"UUmrn sZrtttihJf&tZZZ I V.nrUYXLUi a ThisMKIEK&FRAXK Millinery Exposition il lustrates the new inspira tions of Paris, translated by clever America n s. Meier & Frank's : Fourth Floor.