If
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 21. Idl9.
1 PAN MUSIC IS
RESPONSIBLE
FOR
GROTESQUE DANCE
Mose Christensen Discusses Dif
ferent Ways in Which Terpsi
chorean Art Can Be Restored.
:FFORT IS TOWARD DIGNITY
National School of Dancing Is
Advocated as Remedy and
Preventive of Various Fads.
Prayings of the slide trombone,
jangle of cow bells and whanging of
the tinpun orchestra must go before
the Kroteto.iue and suggestive danc
ing which haa been the recent fad
will pusa into oblivion, according to
the verdict of Portland dancing mas
ters recently returned from the Na
tional Association of Masters of
Dancing in New York. Portland
wan represented by A. C. Holmes of
the LaurofiiurMt club, O. K. .Mauthe
of, the ..Multnomah club and Mose
Christensen. wh.p is chairman of the
hoard of directors of the Normal
Sfliool of Diincing and president of
llii' National School of Dancing,
which met for its second session this j
vear. '
It is the in.pe of the Portland danc- j
ii'rg masters to bring the national con- j
vention to Portland next year and to In
augurate In'-the city a normal school
which will be permanent and of value
to all teachers of the art. so. that the
tcps may be standardized and dancing
.vill assume a greater dignity.
N ATIONAL SCHOOL URGED
Christensen pointed out that tn every
civilized country tn the world, except
the United States, there Is a national
school of dancing. It might take years
to perfect one here, but it would not
lake more money, he declared, than is
low being spent annually by municipal
ities on dance halls and musical enter
ainments. Perhaps the Russian ballet,
r a similar institution, is to be repro
luced for America In the new school.
"It is not necessary to concentrate on
.-lassie music." said Christensen. in
'peaking of the jazz music now so pop
jlar for dancing. "But dancing and
tiuhW are inseparable. They are each
.lie expression of an emotion. If we
re to have the clatter of cow bells and
.in pans and loud blasts of saxaphones.
then the ugly Jumping around which is
so distasteful and so hurtful to the dig
nity of dancing will continue. A little
nore real music would be a good thing."
After a three months' survey of the
N'ew York theatres and dance halls,
tJhrlstensen came to the conclusion that
' he stage and the cafe dancing were the
greatest factors in placing the art of
lancing in disrepute.
POOH DANCKUS BLAMED
"In New York." said Christensen.
'you will still see the 'tango the artistic
iances and the best .of ballroom danc
ng, because there are good dancers
there, and the reason we fall out with
hese fad dances is not because of the
lance Itself, but because of the awk
.vard dancers who attempt them and
nake themselves ridiculous. The fox
trot and the one step and the waltz will
ive forever, each as an expression of a
iifferent emotion, but the 'shimmy,'
which originated in "negro dance halls,
ian express no refined emotion and no
Jecent portrayal of grace."
Arid so with the banishment of the
leath clutch, the hypnotic gaze and the
'sissy-boy cling aTfected by some of
he gentlemen who ornament the danc
.ng floors, charts are to be placed giv-
ng the correct pose for dancers, with
instructions, directions and a diagram
of steps, and soon we shall see the earn
est dancer gliding about head up and
with preoccupied air murmuring "man's
right hand resting above small of part
tier's back ; lady's left hand palm down
ward on partner's shoulder; lady's right
hand in partner's left hand palm down
ward," etc.
In order to standardize the dancing
steps in Portland, a special course for
dancing teachers and others has been
announced, the classes to be held under
the auspices of the Portland Associa
tion of Dancing Masters, beginning
Monday. The classes will meet daily at
the Christensen school. Ballet tech
nique, .! to 10 a. m. ; social dancing,
10 :13 to 11 a. m.
Tacoma Hints That
Graft May Be Found
In B($d Building
Tacoma, Wash., Sept. 20. (U. P.)
Three Tacoma commercial organiza
tions and the Western Washington -Au-'
tomoblle association today perfected ar
rangements for conducting an inquiry
on Monday into charges of attempted
graft anil collusion in connection with
the pending road contracts in this
county.
The call for bids Is under the author
ity of the people of Pierce county, as
expressed at a recent election at which
2. 500.000 in bonds were approved.
The county commissioners are now
iccused of ' framing up" matters so that
lhe entire 98 miles of new roads will be
built by ojie concern, and that presum
ably a company using a patented process.
Groceries
Hour, Drifted Snow or White
River, 4-lb. I0 QC
sack DiUU
Cocoa, highest quality, 6-lb.
cases $2.25, the 1-5 Q
lb. cans OC
Corn, fancy sweet and tender,
case $4.40, doz. 1 Q
$2.75. can IVC
3mli White Beans, 13
lbs. $1. 5 lbs 4:UC
Parlor Matches, extra Op
quality, 6' boxes. ... . OC
Soap, Crystal White, 100 C9
bars $6.15. I0'bar$. OuC
Meier & Frank's:
.... Grocery, Ninth Floor,
I
SI
Autumn Costumes Are Only
Half Perfect Without These
Corsets
Slightly Nipped-in
at the Waist
from Madame Irene. Intended
'-for the wearers of crinoline and
pannier frocks. Just a wee bit
nipped-in a little higher Paris
is advocating them.
Paris is also recommending
the new boneless corset s
models of suede cloth with satin
trimming and some of silk tri
cot in which " we now have all
sizes.
New Frolaset front lace cor
sets include a model of good
elastic webbing with flowered
trimming.
Meier & Frank's : Third Floor.
1
Silks
Miles of New Ones
number the new chinchilla me
teor, heavy tricolette, gold and
silver embroidered satins, plain
and printed georgette, printed
pussywillow taffeta, chiffon vel
vet and plushes.
Meier & Frank's : Second Floor.
Shoes
for Fall Are High
to reach the new -skorter skirts.
They have military or cuban
heels for practical walking and
French heels for dress. Some
have cloth tops. Dark brown,
maple kid and black are the col
ors most in demand.
Boot ton spats are new they
fit over the shoe so carefully
that they become a part of the
boot itself.
Meier & Frank's : Third Floor.
Needlework
Bead bags and sautoirs made
by members of the Art Needle
work class are displayed now in
the Art Needlework Shop. In
struction is free if the mate
rials are purchased here. "Hair
pin crocet" is particularly good
looking and the "hairpin" is
shown only at Meier & Frank's
Meier & Frank's : Second Floor.
Ribbons
Have Their Day
Metal embroidered ribbons for
giiets. Wider brocaded ribbons
for sashes and high corsage gir
dles. Sashes with embroidered
ends. Hairbow ribbons. Two
tone picot ribbons. Fancy weaves
from which. we willmake men's
ties to order.
. Meier & Frank's: Main Floor.
Umbrellas
With Hinged
Bracelet Handles
are new other novelties are
crook handles of pimento wood
inlaid with silver. Plenty of
bright colors to cheer up. rainy
landscapes.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
lgees
are of characteristic Eastern
silks with elaborately hand-embroidered
flowers, birds and
oriental symbols. A new im
portation is -being shown.
Meier & Frank's : Third Floor.
Stockings
of Lace and Silk
Silver gray stockings have, sil
ver embroidery and a thread of
gold tinsel.
Black silk have insets over the
ankle of sheer black lace. Black
or white silk have white or black
embroidery, drop stitch de
signs or rretty open-worked
"boots."
Fine, sheer silk stockings in
white or black are also among
the latest arrivals.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Handbags
Are Some of Life's
Pleasant Gifts
Straight from Paris, n silver
gray pull bag of velvet with steel
beads and balls this has a pow
der puff attached to the mirror.
A Paisley bead bag; a rose bead
bag; a black velvet and steel bag;
a double box-pleated bead bag
and many others.
Miser bags too pretty for the
name in nasturtium, black and
steel, and black and red bead
effects.
Chiffon velvet bags, for after
noon are plain or marvelously
decorated with gold brocades
and golden rose.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Gl
oves
with beige colored crepon lining
in the long slip-on gauntlet cuffs
are among many late arrivals for
the opening.
Fine suede, mocha, capeskin
and exquisite kid gloves with
the newer stitchings are also be
ing shown.
. Chamois slip-on sports gloves
are very distinctive.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Fans
of Decorative
Ostrich Plumes
add a marvelously picturesque
touch to the evening" costume.
Some open and close. Cleopatra
fans are five great plumes in a
stationary arrangement remind
ing one of early Egyptian iays.
Black, tangerine, turquoise, sap
phire, Pekin blue, orchid, coral,
cerise, iade.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Metal Cloths
and Brocades
Bewilderingly lovely satin back
gold, silver and steel cloths;
metal brocades, metal laces, and
the new printed paulette crepe.
For wraps, girdles, bodices and
dresses.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Bouquets
Boutonnieres of gay little
flowers, some with bandboxes to
contain them. Also velvety
roses, delicate orchids and oth
er flowers to be placed in the
new perpendicular way on even
ing gowns. ' '
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Neckwear
Old ivory tones in charming
giiets, berthas, collar and cuff
sets, made of novelty chantilly.
net top laces, repousse laces,
Calais valenciennes and others.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
French Veils
Dotted veils and large square
mesh, the latter with embroid
ered designs are fashionable.
New scroll designs. Russian
meshes, veils with . deep bor
ders which are worn so that the
plain mesh screens the eyes.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Perfumes
Captivating Ones
From Paris
Coty, Houbigant, Violet, Bour
jois and Rosine (Paul Poiret)
are widely represented in the
Toilet Goods Shop. Perfumes,
toilet water, face powderf soap,
rouge and pomade the finest
and most original that Paris pro
duces. Fascinating gift pack
ages are on exhibition.
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
Diamond and Platinum Jewelry
A FINE new collection of platinum, and diamond
( Mewelry has been received in time for the
autum exposition. 4
Personally chosen from some of New York's
fine jewelry manufacturers for its value, its fash
ion and its particularly reasonable prices. Effec
tive dinner rings have lacy platinum tops and
ar paved or set with several larger diamonds.
Small solitaire diamond rings" are specialized. En
chanting little platinum top watches are mounted
on smart ribbon bracelets. 1
Long platinum bar pins and platinum lavallieres
have lovely filigree work and many diamonds.
People who wish effective diamond jewelry in
new approved styles are invited to see these beau
tiful pieces. s
Meier & Frank's : Main Floor.
EVERY window, every floor, every section of the MEIER & FRANK Store will be en fete tomorrow.
The center aisle will be a broad avenue of beautiful draperies and glowing lights. From there on
all the way to the Furniture Gallery will stretch a m a r v e 1 o u s exhibition of the NEW. New
fashions fof women, new fashions for men, new fashions for children, new fashions for the home
interestingly displayed everywhere.
FASHIONS are more changed this autumn than in
the last five years. Paris, the historic center of
world fashions, is seething with ideas. One event
after another has kept all Paris in constant excitement
for the past five years. That excitement reveals itself
in the clothes of 1919.
SOME of the Paris fashions are delightful. Master
pieces inspired by classic styles of the eighteenth
century or Oriental in note. Then there are the so
called "Eve gowns" extremely short, entire! v sleeve
less, entirely backless, low in front never within living
memory have evening gowns been so scant.
I.N CHOOSING the fashions for this Autumn Exposition,, the MEIER & FRANK ex
perts have selected all "Made-in-America" garments. Combined in them is the inspir
ation of both Paris and America. Their silhouette is largely Paris. Materials and
colors are Paris. Many come from makers who have just returned from Paris. Vet,
being interpretations, they are designed especially for Americans and are much less expen
sive and less extreme than if they were entirely Parisian.
Crinoline or Straight
LineS? Asks Paris
Since the openings of French dressmakers in August,
the world of women has decided to adopt both of these
sharply contrasting silhouettes. See how radically dif
ferent they appear in the pictures.
The ostrich feather dress is
of pink taffeta Vith floating
voluminous overdress of tulle
and four panels of ostrich
feathers.
The gay young crinoline dress
is of rose colored taffeta and
tulle with frayed out ruchjng of
the silk, in lampshade style and
a garland of roses at the waist.
The slim serious gown of
metal brocade, fox fur and in
tense blue satin, with a train
half brocade, half tulie. to serve
as scarf in dancing.- illustrates
the second mode. There is just
a note of drapery at the side
and the gown tapers toward the
ankle in an artistically uneven
hem-
Suit Coats Are Long
and Straight
or Long and Flaring
or Short and Flaring
All three styles are represented in the wonderful col
lection of autumn tailored suits here. Suits with fur are
.featured but there are also suits without fur.
One of the newest anivals
has an extra godet at the foot
to give more width to the skirt.
Another new arrival fastens
at the side.
A chiffon velvet suit has a
tinsel embroidered gilet.
Still another has its coat bor
dered with gray squirrel an
interrupted border.
Pannier Gowns
Show 18th Century Inspiration
A fascinating pannier frock is of blue taffeta with deli
cate silver tracery of embroidery all over it and a long
spray of red roses and forget-me-nots placed perpendicu
larly in the new way at the corsage ; a frosty silver lace
underskirt peeps boldly from under the short hem.
Blouses of Originality
Flower-pot pendants belong to a blouse tunique of
dark blue georgette and it has also gold and self-colored
embroiderv.
Half Crinoline
Half Pannier
is the frock of aqua marine taf
feta with lace embroidered with
flowers and threads of gold; the
panniers are wired in crinoline
fashion, there are floating sap
phire blue tulle draperies and
a great corsage bouquet.
Star Sapphire Brocade
forms another marvelous gown
which is draped with tulle and
has gold lace and strass trim
mings. A Silver Brocade
Gown
for a bride or for a reception
has cobwebs of silver lace; the
long train which starts at the
shoulde is lined with silver
cloth; in' front there is a ruch
ing at the end of the hipline to
give the new effect of fullness.
An Exotic Home
Dinner Gown
is very much on the Poiret
type. Made of Moroccan red
hatters' plush, very long and
straight, with Watteau back,
round neck, long sleeves and
trimmed with bands of kolin
sky. The Bertha Gown
is an afternoon frock in one of
the new capucine or flame
shades with many festoons of
coral colored beads.
A Hand some Jet Gown
is of tulle with the jet arranged
in circular stripes instead of all
over. It is a beautiful dinner
frock.
Tricolette Dresses
are being asked for in place of
satin and important new models
have arrived within the last
week.
Wooden beads, yarn fringe
and yam embroilery are the
distinguishing notes of a square
necked tunique.
Huge blue and black plaids
on a novelty crepon are seen in
an ecclesiastical casaque.
Tokio or tomato red georg
ette is used under an over
blouse of dark blue in a waist
line bodice.
Gray angora wool stitching
forms a deep border on u dark
blue tricolette t unique; the
girdle is of braided gold with
balls of twisted gold thread.
Real Italian filet lace trimmed
blouses have lust come from a
little foreign shop in New York.
Hand-made and hand-drawn,
fashioned of fine white georg
ette. Exquisite.
Sumptuous Evening Wraps
Black velvet combined with pompadour brocaded faille
has a hood collar and huge cuffs of black fox.
Black chiffon velvet with
gold and silver tinsel stole has
Hudson seal cellar. Black chif
fon velvet with high choker col
lar and large cuffs of mink is
combined with gold brocside and
gives the barrel silhouette.
Brown duvetyn has an Austral
ian opossum collar that is so
deep it reaches almost to the
waistline when the coat Is worn
open at the throat. Blue duve
tyn with kimono sleeves has
deep taure wolf collar and cuffs.
Autumn Millinery
To Wear With Crinoline and Pannier
Frocks as Well as Straight-Line
Street Costumes
Feathers are triumphantly the fashion. Ostrich plumes,
ostrich tips, the exquisite blondine from the South Amer
ican ostrich called rhea, cassowary frpm the Australian
ostrich, iridescent coque, wing and breast feathers from
Oriental birds.
Hats flare this season they
more often turn up than turn
down. Many of them show two
eyes and even an eyebrow in
their elevation from the face.
Many hats are large to go with
pannier and crinoline frocks.
Small hats are charming with
furs and tailored suits and
have a place in the mode ,
all their own.
Short Fur Coats
High Fur Chokers
Beautiful dress coats of mole
with lynx Hudson seal with
skunk Hudson seal with beav
er Japanese kolinsky blend
ed squirrel. Also the new, very
popular, sports coats of durable
Russian pony, marmot, un
plucked otter and Japanese
mint Most of them are about
thirty incites long and enchant
ingly young looking as well as
warm. x
Smart little choker collars,
worn with the tail at the left
side or in back are of Australian
opossum, mole, Hudson seal,
nutria, squirrel, fox and Jap
anese mink.
Meier & Frank's : Fourth Floor.
fir A Frank's : Fourth Floor. PSTJ SZTM "ZZZ-ZSer " 111 4aA vfi-TJWf,'k
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Millinery Exposition il
lustrates the new inspira
tions of Paris, translated
by clever America n s.
Meier & Frank's : Fourth Floor.