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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
ten The fiiwsfWouief ijtilIQadejfhlliaii crpchet IrislK TUB Innovation of th Jumpr and rulmp drtM was foretold aa the end of th lln(rla blouse, - tut the faUa prophet knows not tha ways of woman and fcaf constancy to - that i particular articl of dress which hao taken her fancy. Then how could thero be a really correct tailored suit if blouse were to be disregarded? What could even Farts find, to take the place of the exquisite bit of linen and laeef ' A i The new blouses are chiefly Interest Ins; for the variety In arrangement and trimming and, although a blouse la a blouse from every standpoint, there are ugly blouses and pretty blouses, and the , .model of the year are classed under the latter beading. The combination of a half dosen bits of different laees Is considered smart this season, while hand embroidery Is employed as a connecting link to hold the samples together. Irish, filet, cluny. . Valenciennes theae are the ofteneat , Combination Sleeves TUBS newest of sleeves la a combi nation of the mikado and the ' kimono, arranged so that, al though the arxnholo is fairly small on (he top of the sleeve, there is no seam. (The waist and sleeve together are gath ' ered Into the usual fulness, used In the ordinary way. This allows sufficient ma terial for the sleeve to be arranged In s puff at the top and gathered again at Blbow length. . Thus the plain look of the kimono klcave Is modified to a great extent, and the fulness at the shoulder is so be coming to many women that they have found the last year of Japanese fashions m trying. ; .', ...... ; ; New: Umbrella Handle EVEN though guntmer weather Is f supposed to be perfect, umbrellas ere sometimes necessary, and for the very newest Is made a detachable Circular vanity box, 'about one and a half inches in diameter, which may be fastened to the, bandla. Thus, In clear weather, the box may take Its place among the dangling trifles on the wrist, ut to wet weather it may be instan taneously attached to the umbrella. The tiny aid to beauty includes The powder and puff, and in the Hd Is fastened a diminutive mirror which magnifies the face. . A and once. . XJne of the new shert jabots , Very full and fluffy , 1 TAILORED blouse ef the season r nu5t b llnlhe1 f 4 the ne with .A large. flufTy bow. and the many deslgiis that emanate rem Pari to complete the Spring wardrobe show cr IcifiaJUjr ad besuty; besides mossier Jfip sxsjw Jtr Vfiaup is .smwsjsjwjw isssm isrra-Tirrrtsjmff -.gawassw i iiwiiiiw i iwsjssa r t irr n mi saiiissjjsj s - jgmmmmtmi .vmmmmmmmmmmmm suwiswiiwiaissiiiasswi fmeMmm-MimMmmu. sn mmmmanmmim r e.-,r..--v -iwmsm r- ..i.jMl0mmam 7 hi AIN1W H5 tailored linen redeemed from stiffness with a touch of Broderis Anglaise. The. collar and crarat is the new one that all Frenclnromen.arrwraring, used, although duchess and applique come In for their share. A tendency to the small yoke is evi denced, especially on the ahoulders, while tailored waist are uaually mad with long sleeves, though the bloue for more pretentiou suits have three quarter sleeves, as during last year. The new small yoke are made with an arrangement of tucks and Insertion, while the linen blouses are inlaid with English eyelet work. 8till others are provided with ruffle and cuff whose scallons have been band-embroidered. , Irish crochet is 'let in" a great many of the Parisian models, and. of course, embroidered filet is both effective and becoming. The blouse has been growing for the past few seasons, always more elaborate and more dressy. The stiff tucked but untrlmmed shirtwaists of a semi-decade past have been relegated to the trunks containing grandmother's finery and grandfather's uniforms. Aids to the Figure WITH hln dresses it is some ' times necessary to add a little to the lines ef the figure, so the wise maid or matron who finds that when summer blouses are not becom ing to her, she may wear a corset-cover with three ruffles down the front, and it is surprising how much difference this makes to the general appearance. In summer, too, horseback riding is a popular sport, and for this it is Sin-out necessary to have cither a special . make of corset or to omit them alto gether and wear only bust forms, which nowadays are made in many attract ive ways. Some are of silk or satin heavily embroidered with lace, while others are more of a lingerie style, and are made of finest nainsook, through which tiny ribbons are run. . Ring Trimmings Return RINO trimmings have returned to popularity on the dresses for early summer. They are the old fashioned rings with a crocheted cover, either with a picot edge or as plain as fancy may dictate. They are used to join together the linen coats, or they are placed as decorations on lace waists or skirts, and sometimes they hold in place the ribbon round the waist. spring rabat that y ill g . r . 111 't- ill t; ji 11 ' , , s s .11 , - ill lifr-i'j k f ( ' ,t ill vft & , it . v 111 L. 1. rsw i ir-i- r" 11 v 1 11 i a.'- ill i"f n 'sy in v. 11 encircles me couar. tt lis Awwawinuwaumwi it j" sn ill n m us. '"- -ii ties over just Its beauty lies Still a favorite; the tbe diajr- ue lower jabot trinVrned with real ful combination of affects attained by a variation ton the same theme the Ja bot. - ;,,- -.y- -'-(.-, ; The big gathered designs are most be coming to; the woman who is tall,' but the i-femma ' pettta that UmiauUr Tim OREGON ; SUNDAY; The embroidery cuts across the front of the blouse, just enough to indicate a yoke that is not a yoke. Jabot From a Handkerchief P ARIS has decreed that jabot are to he worn, and while many of them are made of lace and are hand-em breidered, there are .a few women who prefer them with a touch of color, and then tbey are made of tinted handkerchiefs. Cut one-quarter of the handkerchief away and maka out$of this a butterfly bow. Pleat the remain der of the handkerchief so that the three hemstitched sides form the finish around tha edge, and to these lace 1 sown or not. as the wearer desires. The advantage in making a Jabot out vof a handkerchief Is that it Is unneces sary to hem the Jabot by hand or dec orate It in any way. New Brooch Pendants THERE are many new pendants which may be used as brooches or even hairpins. They are made with a golden loop at the top that fits over the chain, but the brooch pin and hairpin both screw into a tiny hole in the back of tha middle of the design. Some cameos, being such heavy or naments, are arranged so that for pendants they are very large, but when used as brooches the cameo may be taken out of the frame and fixed so that it may be pinned on to the dress. Of course, the cameo would not be used as a decoration for the coif fure, for such pins are usually of dia monds or some other glittering stone. made from real Irish insertion, edged with collar arid tiny pleating. May Irish lacet with an Irish lace cottar, desired. little lady of this country, will see with regret the passing of the long ruffles on the front pleat of the blouse that an cient fashion worn and bequeathed to us by George Washington. The French neckwear shows a most remarkable cemblaatloa ex sn&terials- ' -SSSSSShA fichu made frotn rwl ii ...... ... i mi JOURNAL. . PORTLAND,, SUNDAY Mil A olouse for ft matinee, rich fwith.Quny Uce and embroidery if' M. 7 1 f "4 S i 1 -'?' Novel Hatpins T HE Paris shops are offering hat pins with heads made of stuffed birds or artificial flowers. Indeed, one pin, just brought home by a travel er, has a head In the shape of a minia ture peacock. The bird is complete, tall feathers and all. but the whole Is not more than four inches in height. Another pin head Is a large red rose, k so fresh and rich in color that it seems aa though it had Juat been brought from a summer garden. Gardenias and ca mellias, too, are Impaled on long Kpikes, and a second mourning pin is finished with a spray of lilac or a small bunch of double violets. It is possible to make these, pins at home by buying a small bunch of flow-' era and running through the center of It a plain hatpin with a black end. Of course, these instructions cannot apply to the hatpins with ends In the shape of miniature birds, for it would hardly increase one' popularity If a neighbor's canary were found impaled upon a hatpin, and it is therefore bet ter to wait until the Pins are imported to this country, so that they may be bought ready made. A Spring Model A BRIGHT brown cloth coat and skirt la one of the newest models had front of coat faced with heavy black satin, while across the front was displayed a crossed waistcoat of tapes try brocade. - - linen, Valenciennes, . mull, Irish lace anything. In fact, that may be tied into a bow or gathered into a. ruffle. Then the new rabat, that peculiar cross be tween fichu and Jabot, which encircles the collar and ties Just once, is made ef tuUe and lace, or uj sheer material. r" - x I i , "PA f"m The Urgebutterfly bow il to btt be worn Li much used, and the little iron It k sm mntmi Irksi laAsk ssyMins4 f tsk .tAR , , A MORNING,- MARCH. 22. 1903 A black-and-white blouse, brimful of new ideas in the cuffs, the jibot and the collar. 4.r 4s-' I 5 - There. Js a tendency to yoke effect, made ith amalTpleaU.and anangejnent.of.Uce; Novel Idea for Jewels ror jewels T I so 1 Sli ' N THESE days the -Jewelers are sometimes hard put to it to de sign brooches of a distinctive, novel type, but this spring they have found their inspiration In geography. The state of the Union are made In enamel, with a single diamond to In dicate the birthplace of the owner of the pin. Some other elaborate brooches of this type even show the mountains and rivers, while others merely give the outline of the state. Of course, each woman wears only her own state, so it necessitates the Jewelers carrying in stock at least forty-five pins, while the diamonds for the birthplace would have to be inserted at the customer's order. ' Cuffs for Blouses THERB Is a great variety In the , cuffs used on the blouses for the coming season. Some times they are of the stiff, masculine variety, . and sometimes they are turnback, starched affairs; again, they are merely a ruffle; and others are a band of embroidery, edged or not with lace, as may seem best to the dressmaker. Then, too.' there are the mousque talre or mitten cuffs of lace, which extend from a small puff In the elbow and closely cover the wrist and the knuckles of tha hand. "AILDDED A new Irish rabat. This form of Ions Stand-up collar, with -, jabot is one of the softest inaiimost. cravat run through graceful.-. A decided novelty la shown In the standing collar and double cravat. This is most becoming, particularly to short necks, for it outlines the throat, Increas ing both its length and slenderness. - The large butterfly bow of Irish lace la the best possible taste, and tha com mm m Si SSii sr Fashion EVEN wstches have undergone a change during the last two or three years. They are no longer those bulky affairs which make one look as though one' waist were in some way deformed. They are aa thin as wafera. so thin that It seems almost 'Impossible that any works could be placed inside the cases. They are usually of plain gold without any ornamentation what soever, for the gaudy diamond-studded ones of years ago have been discarded for the more simple timepieces. As these watches are so easily carried it 1 unnecessary to wear them on a Jeweled pin, aa was once the fashion, for they fit inside thn belt and cause no incon venience whatever, or they may be placed In anty other position convenient to tha wearer. There have been leases where the wafer watch was arranged In the garter Neckwear and Belts RIBBON work still holds Its own for decorative purposes, and each season finds some new way of using this most effective embroidery. Pretty bows for the neck are made of ribbon one and a half inches wide, tied in small bows, tbe ends mitered, arul a dainty design in ribbon work, small rosea and forget-me-nots and silk embroidered leaves and stems decorate each end. Belts are also beautified In the same manner, the design being, of course, heavier and further embellished with thread or small cord of gilt, while tbe universal black velvet neck ribbon Is seen embroidered in festoons of pink roses and dainty leaves. Elastic Beltings w 'E HAVE had leather belts and silk belting, elastic belts, suede belts, gold belts and silver belts, but now we have combinations of all these. Elastic of the finest sort em broidered in gold and silver, and belting with an elastic thread embroidered in all colors of the rainbow, and gold braided belts, decorated with flowers In sliver and silk. These are aold as the usual belting and cost no more than a piece of silk ribbon, and while they tend to enlarge the walat. they are nevertheless very effective, and if a woman has a reason ably slight figure she can well afford to own several of these fascinating novel ties, for what could more Improve the costume than a perfect glrdleT Sailor Hats LITTLE captains and future admirals of our navy to be are now doffing the sailor cap of cheviot or chin chilla for those of patent leather. They are found in all colors black being preferred, as is generally the case, by conservative mothers. At the ton this short, full fTTI Sabot snresds into a WeTTi C bination of this and the little pleated ruffle is charming, while the long, knot ted Jabot of lace and chiffon is soft and graceful in the extreme. Theae are the natural outcome of the blouses worn last year, and,' indeed. It Is better to have the ruffles fastened to t 1 1 l 1 1 k v. Embroidered 'filet lace is still sk awirittand effective trimming. in Watches buckle, and, while thia fashion might leave the wearer in ignorance of the time, at least she has the satisfaction of knowing that her watch la not at home on her dressing table. When, however, the watch 1 worn in a lens lnconplc uous position a plain gold or silver chain 1 attached to It and It encircles ' the neck of the owner. These chains, too, are of the simplest variety and must only be worn with plain tailored gowns, for on no occaaion Is a watch necessary when milady Is in her Sunday best Some women still adhere to the old fashion of wearing '.he timepiece in a bracelet, and where these were once of leather they are now of chased gold or sliver, and are far more satisfactory. For calling this custom Is especially convenient, except when milady goe In her automobile. Then, -of course, there Is a small clock Included In the fittings of the tonneau. Summer Shoes WITH lingerie dresses for the spring and summer a new but toned oxford will be worn. It' is not on the Du Barry order, but rath er on the style of the strapped slipper, for the boot is slit between the buttons so that the stocking may show through. With these. Dame Fashion says, colored stockings must be worn to match the gown or belt Many street slippers will be fitted with high French heels, but because there are some sensible women who will not consent to go any distance in such monstrosities, summer shoe may be obtained with Cuban or military heels. It is predicted that opera slippers will be worn on all occasions, and these will be made in black, white and pink, or any other shade that might by any chance be required. A Prospect of Pockets l I T IS SAID that pockets are to gZ7 a i... . v. m 1. 1 . . i i ' turn wiiu m7 sttBiuuu o& uiv syrinc but In spite of the rumor no one has ventured to foretell where these comforts to femininity will be placed In the costume. Is it that they will be fastened, as of old, to the underskirt, or will they take their old position at the placket, or, perhaps, will they be cunningly placed In the belt of one of the new semi-princess gowns? Perhaps they will find a nesting place at the end of the long sash ends, so popular this year, or, again, there is a possibility that they may be sewn to the hem of the dress. Of course, no matter where they are, it will only be possible to use them to carry the dainty moucholr of milady:" y The plainest blousej W . 1 u' w" I Of elegance with the .ana consr. the collar Instead of to the blouse Itself.; As summer approaches,' the tulle and chiffon WiH be replaced with lawn and linen, but Irish crochet, that most con venient of laces, is appropriate, no mat ter how plain the material of the foun dation may be, , . ,
