ten
The fiiwsfWouief ijtilIQadejfhlliaii
crpchet IrislK
TUB Innovation of th Jumpr and
rulmp drtM was foretold aa
the end of th lln(rla blouse,
- tut the faUa prophet knows not tha
ways of woman and fcaf constancy
to - that i particular articl of dress
which hao taken her fancy. Then how
could thero be a really correct tailored
suit if blouse were to be disregarded?
What could even Farts find, to take the
place of the exquisite bit of linen and
laeef '
A i
The new blouses are chiefly Interest
Ins; for the variety In arrangement and
trimming and, although a blouse la a
blouse from every standpoint, there are
ugly blouses and pretty blouses, and the
, .model of the year are classed under
the latter beading.
The combination of a half dosen bits
of different laees Is considered smart
this season, while hand embroidery Is
employed as a connecting link to hold
the samples together. Irish, filet, cluny.
. Valenciennes theae are the ofteneat
, Combination Sleeves
TUBS newest of sleeves la a combi
nation of the mikado and the
' kimono, arranged so that, al
though the arxnholo is fairly small on
(he top of the sleeve, there is no seam.
(The waist and sleeve together are gath
' ered Into the usual fulness, used In the
ordinary way. This allows sufficient ma
terial for the sleeve to be arranged In
s puff at the top and gathered again at
Blbow length.
. Thus the plain look of the kimono
klcave Is modified to a great extent, and
the fulness at the shoulder is so be
coming to many women that they have
found the last year of Japanese fashions
m trying.
; .', ......
; ; New: Umbrella Handle
EVEN though guntmer weather Is
f supposed to be perfect, umbrellas
ere sometimes necessary, and for
the very newest Is made a detachable
Circular vanity box, 'about one and a
half inches in diameter, which may be
fastened to the, bandla. Thus, In clear
weather, the box may take Its place
among the dangling trifles on the wrist,
ut to wet weather it may be instan
taneously attached to the umbrella.
The tiny aid to beauty includes
The powder and puff, and in the Hd Is
fastened a diminutive mirror which
magnifies the face. .
A
and
once.
. XJne of the new shert jabots
, Very full and fluffy
, 1 TAILORED blouse ef the season
r nu5t b llnlhe1 f 4 the ne with
.A large. flufTy bow. and the many
deslgiis that emanate rem Pari to
complete the Spring wardrobe show cr
IcifiaJUjr ad besuty; besides mossier
Jfip sxsjw Jtr Vfiaup is .smwsjsjwjw isssm isrra-Tirrrtsjmff -.gawassw i iiwiiiiw i iwsjssa r t irr n mi saiiissjjsj s - jgmmmmtmi .vmmmmmmmmmmmm suwiswiiwiaissiiiasswi fmeMmm-MimMmmu. sn mmmmanmmim r e.-,r..--v -iwmsm r- ..i.jMl0mmam
7
hi
AIN1W
H5
tailored linen
redeemed from stiffness
with a touch of Broderis
Anglaise. The. collar and
crarat is the new one that all
Frenclnromen.arrwraring,
used, although duchess and applique
come In for their share.
A tendency to the small yoke is evi
denced, especially on the ahoulders,
while tailored waist are uaually mad
with long sleeves, though the bloue
for more pretentiou suits have three
quarter sleeves, as during last year.
The new small yoke are made with
an arrangement of tucks and Insertion,
while the linen blouses are inlaid with
English eyelet work. 8till others are
provided with ruffle and cuff whose
scallons have been band-embroidered. ,
Irish crochet is 'let in" a great many
of the Parisian models, and. of course,
embroidered filet is both effective and
becoming.
The blouse has been growing for the
past few seasons, always more elaborate
and more dressy. The stiff tucked but
untrlmmed shirtwaists of a semi-decade
past have been relegated to the trunks
containing grandmother's finery and
grandfather's uniforms.
Aids to the Figure
WITH hln dresses it is some
' times necessary to add a little
to the lines ef the figure, so
the wise maid or matron who finds that
when summer blouses are not becom
ing to her, she may wear a corset-cover
with three ruffles down the front, and
it is surprising how much difference
this makes to the general appearance.
In summer, too, horseback riding is
a popular sport, and for this it is Sin-out
necessary to have cither a special .
make of corset or to omit them alto
gether and wear only bust forms, which
nowadays are made in many attract
ive ways. Some are of silk or satin
heavily embroidered with lace, while
others are more of a lingerie style, and
are made of finest nainsook, through
which tiny ribbons are run.
. Ring Trimmings Return
RINO trimmings have returned to
popularity on the dresses for
early summer. They are the old
fashioned rings with a crocheted cover,
either with a picot edge or as plain as
fancy may dictate. They are used to
join together the linen coats, or they
are placed as decorations on lace waists
or skirts, and sometimes they hold in
place the ribbon round the waist.
spring rabat that y
ill g . r . 111 't- ill t; ji 11 ' , , s s .11 , - ill lifr-i'j k f ( ' ,t ill vft & , it . v 111
L. 1. rsw i ir-i- r" 11 v 1 11 i a.'- ill i"f n 'sy in v. 11
encircles me couar.
tt lis Awwawinuwaumwi it j" sn ill n m us. '"- -ii
ties over just
Its beauty lies
Still a favorite; the
tbe diajr-
ue lower
jabot trinVrned with real
ful combination of affects attained by
a variation ton the same theme the Ja
bot. - ;,,- -.y- -'-(.-,
; The big gathered designs are most be
coming to; the woman who is tall,' but
the i-femma ' pettta that UmiauUr
Tim OREGON ; SUNDAY;
The embroidery cuts across the front of the
blouse, just enough to indicate a yoke that is
not a yoke.
Jabot From a Handkerchief
P
ARIS has decreed that jabot are
to he worn, and while many of
them are made of lace and are
hand-em breidered, there are .a few
women who prefer them with a touch of
color, and then tbey are made of tinted
handkerchiefs. Cut one-quarter of the
handkerchief away and maka out$of
this a butterfly bow. Pleat the remain
der of the handkerchief so that the
three hemstitched sides form the finish
around tha edge, and to these lace 1
sown or not. as the wearer desires.
The advantage in making a Jabot out
vof a handkerchief Is that it Is unneces
sary to hem the Jabot by hand or dec
orate It in any way.
New Brooch Pendants
THERE are many new pendants
which may be used as brooches
or even hairpins. They are
made with a golden loop at the top
that fits over the chain, but the
brooch pin and hairpin both screw
into a tiny hole in the back of tha
middle of the design.
Some cameos, being such heavy or
naments, are arranged so that for
pendants they are very large, but
when used as brooches the cameo may
be taken out of the frame and fixed
so that it may be pinned on to the
dress. Of course, the cameo would not
be used as a decoration for the coif
fure, for such pins are usually of dia
monds or some other glittering stone.
made from real
Irish insertion, edged with
collar arid
tiny pleating. May
Irish lacet
with an Irish lace cottar,
desired.
little lady of this country, will see with
regret the passing of the long ruffles on
the front pleat of the blouse that an
cient fashion worn and bequeathed to
us by George Washington.
The French neckwear shows a most
remarkable cemblaatloa ex sn&terials-
' -SSSSSShA fichu made frotn rwl ii ...... ... i mi
JOURNAL. . PORTLAND,, SUNDAY
Mil
A olouse for ft matinee, rich
fwith.Quny Uce and embroidery
if'
M.
7
1 f "4
S i 1 -'?'
Novel Hatpins
T
HE Paris shops are offering hat
pins with heads made of stuffed
birds or artificial flowers. Indeed,
one pin, just brought home by a travel
er, has a head In the shape of a minia
ture peacock. The bird is complete, tall
feathers and all. but the whole Is not
more than four inches in height.
Another pin head Is a large red rose,
k so fresh and rich in color that it seems
aa though it had Juat been brought from
a summer garden. Gardenias and ca
mellias, too, are Impaled on long Kpikes,
and a second mourning pin is finished
with a spray of lilac or a small bunch
of double violets.
It is possible to make these, pins at
home by buying a small bunch of flow-'
era and running through the center of
It a plain hatpin with a black end.
Of course, these instructions cannot
apply to the hatpins with ends In the
shape of miniature birds, for it would
hardly increase one' popularity If a
neighbor's canary were found impaled
upon a hatpin, and it is therefore bet
ter to wait until the Pins are imported
to this country, so that they may be
bought ready made.
A Spring Model
A BRIGHT brown cloth coat and
skirt la one of the newest models
had front of coat faced with heavy
black satin, while across the front was
displayed a crossed waistcoat of tapes
try brocade.
- -
linen, Valenciennes, . mull, Irish lace
anything. In fact, that may be tied into
a bow or gathered into a. ruffle. Then
the new rabat, that peculiar cross be
tween fichu and Jabot, which encircles
the collar and ties Just once, is made
ef tuUe and lace, or uj sheer material.
r" - x I i ,
"PA
f"m The Urgebutterfly bow il to btt
be worn Li much used, and the little iron It k
sm mntmi Irksi laAsk ssyMins4 f tsk .tAR
, , A
MORNING,- MARCH. 22. 1903
A black-and-white blouse, brimful of new
ideas in the cuffs, the jibot and the collar.
4.r
4s-' I
5 -
There. Js a tendency to yoke effect, made
ith amalTpleaU.and anangejnent.of.Uce;
Novel Idea for Jewels
ror jewels
T
I so
1 Sli
' N THESE days the -Jewelers are
sometimes hard put to it to de
sign brooches of a distinctive,
novel type, but this spring they have
found their inspiration In geography.
The state of the Union are made In
enamel, with a single diamond to In
dicate the birthplace of the owner of
the pin.
Some other elaborate brooches of
this type even show the mountains
and rivers, while others merely give
the outline of the state. Of course,
each woman wears only her own
state, so it necessitates the Jewelers
carrying in stock at least forty-five
pins, while the diamonds for the
birthplace would have to be inserted
at the customer's order. '
Cuffs for Blouses
THERB Is a great variety In the
, cuffs used on the blouses for
the coming season. Some
times they are of the stiff, masculine
variety, . and sometimes they are
turnback, starched affairs; again, they
are merely a ruffle; and others are a
band of embroidery, edged or not
with lace, as may seem best to the
dressmaker.
Then, too.' there are the mousque
talre or mitten cuffs of lace, which
extend from a small puff In the elbow
and closely cover the wrist and the
knuckles of tha hand.
"AILDDED
A new Irish rabat.
This form of Ions
Stand-up collar, with
-,
jabot is one of the
softest inaiimost.
cravat run through
graceful.-.
A decided novelty la shown In the
standing collar and double cravat. This
is most becoming, particularly to short
necks, for it outlines the throat, Increas
ing both its length and slenderness. -
The large butterfly bow of Irish lace
la the best possible taste, and tha com
mm
m Si SSii sr
Fashion
EVEN wstches have undergone a
change during the last two or
three years. They are no longer
those bulky affairs which make one look
as though one' waist were in some way
deformed. They are aa thin as wafera.
so thin that It seems almost 'Impossible
that any works could be placed inside
the cases. They are usually of plain
gold without any ornamentation what
soever, for the gaudy diamond-studded
ones of years ago have been discarded
for the more simple timepieces. As
these watches are so easily carried it 1
unnecessary to wear them on a Jeweled
pin, aa was once the fashion, for they
fit inside thn belt and cause no incon
venience whatever, or they may be
placed In anty other position convenient
to tha wearer.
There have been leases where the
wafer watch was arranged In the garter
Neckwear and Belts
RIBBON work still holds Its own
for decorative purposes, and
each season finds some new way
of using this most effective embroidery.
Pretty bows for the neck are made
of ribbon one and a half inches wide,
tied in small bows, tbe ends mitered,
arul a dainty design in ribbon work,
small rosea and forget-me-nots and
silk embroidered leaves and stems
decorate each end.
Belts are also beautified In the same
manner, the design being, of course,
heavier and further embellished with
thread or small cord of gilt, while tbe
universal black velvet neck ribbon Is
seen embroidered in festoons of pink
roses and dainty leaves.
Elastic Beltings
w
'E HAVE had leather belts and
silk belting, elastic belts, suede
belts, gold belts and silver
belts, but now we have combinations of
all these. Elastic of the finest sort em
broidered in gold and silver, and belting
with an elastic thread embroidered in all
colors of the rainbow, and gold braided
belts, decorated with flowers In sliver
and silk.
These are aold as the usual belting
and cost no more than a piece of silk
ribbon, and while they tend to enlarge
the walat. they are nevertheless very
effective, and if a woman has a reason
ably slight figure she can well afford to
own several of these fascinating novel
ties, for what could more Improve the
costume than a perfect glrdleT
Sailor Hats
LITTLE captains and future admirals
of our navy to be are now doffing
the sailor cap of cheviot or chin
chilla for those of patent leather.
They are found in all colors black
being preferred, as is generally the
case, by conservative mothers.
At the ton this short, full fTTI
Sabot snresds into a WeTTi C
bination of this and the little pleated
ruffle is charming, while the long, knot
ted Jabot of lace and chiffon is soft and
graceful in the extreme.
Theae are the natural outcome of the
blouses worn last year, and,' indeed. It
Is better to have the ruffles fastened to
t 1 1 l 1 1 k v.
Embroidered 'filet lace is still sk
awirittand effective trimming.
in Watches
buckle, and, while thia fashion might
leave the wearer in ignorance of the
time, at least she has the satisfaction of
knowing that her watch la not at home
on her dressing table. When, however,
the watch 1 worn in a lens lnconplc
uous position a plain gold or silver chain
1 attached to It and It encircles ' the
neck of the owner. These chains, too,
are of the simplest variety and must
only be worn with plain tailored gowns,
for on no occaaion Is a watch necessary
when milady Is in her Sunday best
Some women still adhere to the old
fashion of wearing '.he timepiece in a
bracelet, and where these were once of
leather they are now of chased gold or
sliver, and are far more satisfactory.
For calling this custom Is especially
convenient, except when milady goe In
her automobile. Then, -of course, there
Is a small clock Included In the fittings
of the tonneau.
Summer Shoes
WITH lingerie dresses for the
spring and summer a new but
toned oxford will be worn. It'
is not on the Du Barry order, but rath
er on the style of the strapped slipper,
for the boot is slit between the buttons
so that the stocking may show through.
With these. Dame Fashion says, colored
stockings must be worn to match the
gown or belt
Many street slippers will be fitted
with high French heels, but because
there are some sensible women who will
not consent to go any distance in such
monstrosities, summer shoe may be
obtained with Cuban or military heels.
It is predicted that opera slippers will
be worn on all occasions, and these will
be made in black, white and pink, or
any other shade that might by any
chance be required.
A Prospect of Pockets l
I
T IS SAID that pockets are to gZ7
a i... . v. m 1. 1 . . i i '
turn wiiu m7 sttBiuuu o& uiv syrinc
but In spite of the rumor no one
has ventured to foretell where these
comforts to femininity will be placed
In the costume. Is it that they will be
fastened, as of old, to the underskirt,
or will they take their old position at
the placket, or, perhaps, will they be
cunningly placed In the belt of one of
the new semi-princess gowns?
Perhaps they will find a nesting place
at the end of the long sash ends, so
popular this year, or, again, there is a
possibility that they may be sewn to
the hem of the dress. Of course, no
matter where they are, it will only be
possible to use them to carry the dainty
moucholr of milady:"
y The plainest blousej
W . 1 u'
w" I Of elegance with the
.ana consr.
the collar Instead of to the blouse Itself.;
As summer approaches,' the tulle and
chiffon WiH be replaced with lawn and
linen, but Irish crochet, that most con
venient of laces, is appropriate, no mat
ter how plain the material of the foun
dation may be, , . ,