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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
... CHARMING LINES s. WHAT could be mora charming than the lines of the gowns for afternoon wear? BimpHc Ity If the watchword, but what a va riety of slmpleness. what an Individ uality of style the spring fashion allow! For over a century such stralghtness of line has not been attempted, and chen last the clinging; style was In vogue the materials were comparative- , ly few. but now there are such a num ber of textures to choose from that it seems more impossible to find an un satisfactory medium for a dress than a satisfactory one. , Everything makes for length of line the ribbons depending from belts, the straight, ungathered sleeves, the long, untrlmmed skirts and the new scarfs that are at the same time the idlosyn- . crasy and the rage of the day. What better mode for wash dresses could be conceived than the pattern that fastens In one straight line from left shoulder to hem; what Idea could better adapt itself to beautiful voile than the deep folds of oriental sleeves and surplice waist; 'and In air the per fection of detail, what could be more be coming than the guimpe, whether It be m lace, embroidery, chiffon, or fine tucVed " linen? .The scarfs are wonderful conceptions and easily arranged so that they add a graceful touch to(any costume. They are made of Insertion, filet, cluny or Irish, and lined sometimes with lib' erty silk In some light color, with a broad hem of the silk showing In each side of the lace. They are worn loose over the arm and they fall to the knees, thus carrying out the Grecian Idea of drapery shown In the famous picture of Nauslcaa. Cashmere Is not only used for walk ing suits, but also for dresses,' while peacock blue and ruby red remain la ravor, , Soft girdles or suit or satin add me . ....4 tAMAk i & Sit mint aimr 4raaaae perfect touch to the' quaint new dresses, ana mese same are oncn oauooi in uta els of gold or silver. A new feature la the gown that but - tons down the side, and it is very smart and becoming to the woman with the average figure. These dresses are made of linen or pongee, though tussor ' Is also used. . AH the dresses are. finished with a guimpe of Irish lace, net or embrold , ered tulle, though cluny is just as fash ionable and far less expensive. The sleeve in the gowns are small at the - armholes and most of them .-are over an - undersleeve or cuff of lace, which, however, is not ruffled or gather a 0 Attractive Combs NEW back combs are shown, the top decorated with cut Jet In many- beautiful designs and shapes, while for mourning wear the Jet Is of the dull variety, cut to re semble crepe. -Other combs are made of blonde tortoise shell, finished with huge cut bows or thickly studded with semi-precious stones. They are most attractive and sure to hold a place in the hair dressing of the next few months, for womankind is rap idly reverting1 to the simplest of colf ' f ures, and, to prevent the backslid ing from being too precipitant, hair dressing will be decorated with many eeauuiui ana arusuo comDS. . Summer Evening Wrap A FEW of the coats shown for even ing wear during spring and sum mer months are built quite on the lines of a chasuble that is to say, made oblong, so that when a circle has been made in the center for the neck the sides are tucked over the arms, and both back and front extend almost to the end of the skirt. They are usually heavily embroidered all round the edge and up the front and lined with some light silk or satin, while the cuffs and collar, are finished with long fluff Us- , el la silk or gold. . . r THE f OREGON SUNDAY IN PARIS GOWNS SPECIAL FEATURES OF SPRING i OR dresses it seems as though the high waist line was a fixture. The empire-princess gown has been taken up ' V1 figure, if there is one, and hides it if there is not, that its reign bids fair to be long and successful. ' ' ' ' ' " " f s The ever-present guimpe is the natural outcome of the long, clingy costume; and it is used in everythinghigh neck, low neck and half neck while three-quarter sleeves are uni versally employed, except for decollete gowns. ' The girdles are various in design and height, but they all include long ends hanging at side, front or back, while the scarfs, which will be carried as a sort of superfluous accessory, accentuate the fong, flowing line of the present fashion. 1- An Idea for Braiding M ANY suits for early spring are made with quite plain cutaway coats in which slits have been' made on both sides of the front and through which broad soutache braid has been run. The same Idea is used also as a decoration for cuffs, and the slits are best buttonholed, so that the braid will not tear the material. The end of the braid is mltered and finished In a BUk tassel. An Old Material in Fashion ONE of the season's revivals In street materials ' Is - prunella cloth, a fabric something on the order of a cashmere, but heavier and therefore more satisfactory from the tailor's standpoint This year it is brought , out in shadow stripes, that showing the chevron being par ticularly good. . , Silk Frogs for Spring Coats MANY of the dresses shown for spring wear are fastened down the front with frogs-made of radium silk, twisted around a founda tion of heavy white cord. By this method one may be sure that- the fastening of the dress exactly matches the material, which la impossible : when It la necessary .to buy braid. JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY - HORNING, ' MARCH 22. - so enthusiastically by women, who at Home-Made Blouses A PRETTY blouse, easily made at home, might be copied after one seen on a shopping ' tour. It was simply bands of cheap cluny insertion, the kind-formerly used on curtains, sewed together the length of the blouse and made perfectly plain. The small puff sleeves were made the same way, and the collar was a band of the same. This could be varied by inserting a 'collar and square neckpiece of tucked net,' edged with Valenciennes, and making cuffs to match, while velvet or rib bon ef the color ' of the suit with which It is worn could be introduced with good effect Tulle Toques STRAW toques are predicted as being; the rage for the coming: season, but there are many wom en who do not care for straw used in this way, and these will wear toques made of pleated tulle or net, orna mented only by beads to match wound round them and a stiff mili tary aigrette. These are really very chlo, and tha beads, when they are Jn shades to match the hats, are most hecoming and quite a novel touch to hats made on this aid of the ocean. ....... -i . FOR COSTUMES find that it improves the f'j The Diabolo Hat nIABOLO has been the game and now diabolo Is the new shape for the spring hat. It gets U name from the crown, which' Is shaped like the spool of the French nastime. It Is six inches In heiorht and curved In at the middle. - The ones seen up to date have been wire frames covered with shirred net and around the depression in the crown a black velvet ribbon fastens several plumes to the side. ; Inexpensive Bands ANEW hat for a child of 10 la shown simply trimmed with a deep band of wide ribbon on which is appliqued several large roses cut from cretonne and fastened on with an outline Of gold thread. This is a vary simple idea and one easily carried out and if it can be worn by the children there is no rea son why walking hats for women should not be adorned In the same way. Sashes in Style Again WIDE sashes of black satin, with long fringed ends, are seen . on exclusive models In cash mere visiting crowns. These are draped in high corselet fashion and lit anuglx to tha figure. ; KH , V , l- . .-' . . ; ;'.:. 1903 AFTERNOON The Reign of the Tassel TASSELS, tassels everywhere, be It dangling from - the latest neckgear or hanging from tha big1 drapery seen on so many of the new costumes for spring and summer. They hang behind the dainty ear of the girl who wears her most fetching tulle hat or they bedeck the skirt of the society matron as she stands in lino at reception or tea. Everywhere seen, everywhere ad mired, it is a consolation to know that If necessary they can be most easily made at home. Those of silver or gold cord (are most effective if used sparingly. Embroidered Coats THE newest coats art cut with the -long panels down each side of the front and each side of the back, which are heavily embroidered with braid and handwork. A remark, able thing about these la that they . extend almost to the knees, while the middle of the back and the sides are quite short, the slit extending above the waist The sleeves of these eoats are quite wide, with an inside sleeve of lace, which doe not show unless the arm Is extended straight out. The . collars are finished with a band 0( -embroidery, while the front of the coats fasten . over an embroidered veeV- . , - - , - WEAR X Parasols for Morning ancf ; Afternoon ' PARASOLS, as ever, are' of whtt linen, embroidered in many beau . tlf ul and elaborate designs', al though some for morning wear are in pongee decorated' with a pattern car ried In shades of tan. ; One really re markable parasol was finished ' around the edge with a row of arbutus, which was embroidered In lightest tan and shades of delicate pink. , , . ,( , For dressy occasions Una white Unon is very popular, incrusted with lace medallions and embroidered in sprays of flowers and twining vines. Irish lace is frequently used for this purpose. 1 and sometimes, it forms a ruffle around the edge and a second half war be- - lZLcn thf order. nd . which makes a double ruffle on the parasol borne white parasols are lined .with pink silk to give a pretty color-to the it,cJB,mMdi 1ther. r. no mbroldered. but merely have lace insertion placed in many curves around the edge. The handles are quite remarkable in that they are enameled to match the. dress, and sometimes they are flnished-at th end with a little crystal ball ot a gold box containing a powder puff. These sticks are, however,- extremely exnen. slve, and many women find that thev must be contented with wooden handles colored with paint; but neverthel sS woods are n o?eused8?,b1' ,u, " Motor Costume for SpnW WHEN milady, goes automo blling she must bs provided with a dust-proof cloak which Sfni kf bJ? ap' tllat ner dress W2i1Abnt?,ly Protected. On her head she will wear a small strnw ISSJK ke,P th ' " " w ft wnPJ-1! Up.both . that i7L1k ' front and back: this ,,! finish her motor costume. rJWH nw y the way, ' is rather a novelty, and it bids fair to Ja,jdy " vorlt. for it uk s away that extremely plain look that hfr8d Ve,J to the back t-f the, head, -and provides a coquttUu ' bw'orth,.bs.ck Bell as for t fronU Beauty Is not its only virtu-, for It would need a strong wind to blow tw,fr tht anchored by such u nur veil as this.- ' , .- . , ; Another veil (s of chiffon cloth wlfh large taffeta dots and hound ait rm with a taffeta silk blndinsr. T! m h useful In the extreme, for tun hu; ) -makes the veil both ftrnt an.i i'ir..i. , but it lS not SO llKht Btl'l Hi, as the little veil tiiat tie ;j-. i i., s bead. . .
