Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
NOVELTIES THERE la something moat ap propriate about a three-quarter coat ana a walking skirt. Short coats look somehow 6ut of place and a long coat aaema only . suitable (or Stormy or wintry weather, but a three-auarter coat, wall out and . woU braided. Is the Ideal mode) for a , "trotteur," or short skirt. It la also a great relief that the cre- . ators of fashion In their wisdom de- ' creed that, although long, tight skirts were to be worn with dressy or serai i dressy costumes, little pleated checks' and atripea were to be the proper ' thing (or morning wear. Who could quite reconcUe with the fitness of things a short skirt built on the lines of a classic garment, and who would care to adapt a check or plaid to the fulness of S. tunic skirt T Everything la wisely decided for this season. The attractive walking costume seems to be not only smart, but com fortable and graceful as well The ' Jabot makes a perfect finish In the rather low line of the new revers, for a plain yoke showing beneath the Jacket always seems to be wanting in something. Cashmere cloth In soft shades of brown Is the most popular material ., for French suits, and they are pret- tlest when finished with buttons and -! braid of the same color. 1'. A Francis model la, of plaid cash mere in tones of gray, with a line of red Just vtsible. The Jacket of plain array Is trimmed with black, rose and , gold, and with It is worn a scarf, one ' of the novelties of the season. Whatever the women may think" of the newest thins in coats, at least they cannot accuse them of being -'wanting in variety and grace; while the sleeves shown on spring suits aeein to have solved the problem for at leas i anotner six. montns, wnewer - the solution be satisfactory or not , Japanese sleeves and their modifies- ' Uons are no longer the vogue, arm boles are diminished in sire, and the extra long shoulder line has been re- duced to human proportions. But the long sleeve has not yet arrived, a falct that will bring great joy to some hearts and much sorrow to others. However, sleeves are growing grad ually longer, inch by Inch, and while they are not expected to follow the pace of the famous glaciers of the - world, which move but an inch a year, tbey are, nevertheless, taking their own time In reaching the wrist ; New Skirt lining SOME of the new skirts are being . lined with soft crepe 4a chine, and are warn without any petUcoata what soever. .The umbrella shape at the foot, which was heralded as the .com ing fashion, is quite unpopular and the skirts, if anything, surra Inward at the toot litis. - : 1 Trimmings for Spring Gowns FILET net is, without doubt, tho material mostosed in the mak ing of waists and costumes for the coming season, fur it Is com bined With Valenciennes or Irish, or sometimes is heavily braided with narreV soutache. Irish lace, too, is always popular in combination with lace or-linen, and now baby Irish la used tor stiff collars and for the in sertion at tho foot of the flounce. Soutactie braid as a trimming is coming back to the greatest popular ity, while gold braid, eo much used last fall, is still being arrangud on the newest dresses. Ordinary lace, such as Valenciennes or mechlin, used to be sufficient for any costume, but now alone are tiot handsome enough, and they rnust be run with gold or silver threads or otherwise adorned with fancy stitches. Angel Sleeves Again EVENING gowns are delightfully picturesque1 and the sleeves are things of especial beauty. They are almost Invariably of thinnest mate rials and are arranged In such a man ner that they permit the whole arm to be seen even while they pretend to drape it. "Angel" draperies of chiffon, tulle or other transparent materials falling low under ths arms form a most becoming background for delicate white flesh. On tho outer side they open right up to the Shoulder, although sometimes they are caught together above ths elbow by light clasp or knot -of velvet Women with thin arms will find sleeves of this kind most flattering, as they soften an gular ouUine and throw becoming shadow on a sallow aids. THE OREGON SUNDAY. SEEN DESIGNS IN SUITS THAT WILL FIND FAVOR THE models of the suits for spring wear show that the bolero, popular"; last year, has had to give way before the all-conquering three-quarter coat. , In fact, the fashion of the time seems to lean toward a'straightness of line, a simplicity in contour, except' at the neck, where the jabot is placed to balance the effect Braiding and, buttons have come back with full favor, and have caif ruffled nndersleevei and embroidered cuffs into oblivion. - " v:.. c. ;.r , The plain skirts would seem to Indicate that the cut ruffle and false tucks are things of Uie past, though the false tunic, placed between the knees and feet, is noticeable on almost 11 the spring suits. . . ' ' ' Hats are smaller and much more piquant The plain, unbroken line of the basin has been displaced by the smart little twist to one side and the straight military trimming of aigrette and quill. . 'w. ' . ; MATERIALS FOR HOUSE WEAR N V spring dresses are all modes that require - lightness of material, and therefore nothing could be better than voile, which, as ever, holds sway, and never was it so bewllderlngly beautiful as at present. There is the Bilk voile, dis tim tivo and graceful In every sjreep, ;ni the rajah voile, the heavy, rough tin end that gives it its name lending body and substance to the material; while eoliennee in all styles and de signs win your heart, from the part cotton variety at less than 60 cents a yard to one that for its fineness and delicacy could almost be passed, like the "West India" fabrics of our grandmothers, through a slender finger ring. Bordures, too, arw shown In all ma terials for house or semi-dressy gowns, and one of the most attractive is the sheerer batiste, a ground cov ered with small irregular dots of blue and the border also of blue cov ered with the wall of Troy design. . There are also the mercerised cotton voiles, dainty and cool, with enough sheen to make them appropriate for dress occasions, andJacquards, With" brocaded self-toned flowers in the ground, while the broad lavender stripe is lightened with polka dot of white. A cotton voile with a lace stripe and embroidered dot Is especially new, as la cross-barred . material with em broidered figures In black and white on a pastel ground. FA9 rnoussellnes ar I especially Attractive thl year with a bewilder ing variety ot new j?aUsras while JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY THE those with hollow rings in black and heavy coin dot In colors on a white ground ara fascinating.. :.- ; Last, but not least, cord the em broidered ewlasea. Never wire there more artistic nor beautiful designs. Dots we hav had before, but never in such variety, and this year there are to tempt our pocketbooks mar velous combinations and effects In this familiar material. Those with Shoes and Stockings for Jaunty Costumes THI8 spring we have at our disposal , the styles of all the seasons in Shoes and stockings. Oxfords, pumps, colonial ties, three eyelet shoes, plain tips, wing tips, brown, black and whiteall. are foretold as a popular choice for spring wear: but In all these shoea the toes are quite pointed, oven as pointed as they were a good many year ago, when this characteristic be came so exaggerated that the pendulum of compensation swung Back to square toed boots. , m Stockings, too, seem to be as varied as ahoes. for they are open work, hand embroidered and of softest lisle. As to color in shoes and stockings, brown will be the ordinary shade for both morning and afternoon wearyrand, of course, brown shoes require brown stockings: but the popular white shoes are not made at the present time in buckskin, for canvas has been found more satis- ' factory and far less expensive. Taken all together, she who finds It impossible, to get pleasing footwear will Indeed be particular, tor Alt the fash- -ton of bygone years are at her eeirioa. KORNING. MARCH 2V 1908 PARISIAN t spraya of Dresden colored posies thrown here and there on a white or colored ground are exquisite and' . are formidable rivals of the favorite dot. Then there are many attractive designs in bordure effects. Lovely Silk rnoussellnes are shown, the bor der being made of graduated solid . circles, overprinted with sprays of sweet peas In pink or roses and forget-me-nots In pink and blue. Printed crepe is a most effective cotton fabric, and is beautiful in the new flowered-designs; while a mate rial called Pekln mousseline, the thin nest of thin materials, striped with white satin. Is most effective, the pop ular blues and browns being seen hare also, but taking the daintier, softer porcelain colorings. A silk voile with broad satin bands was especially beautiful in a dark, peculiar blue;-while a messallne was shown that was fairly startling in the beauty of its coloring, known by the technical name of serpent. The new foulards are newer in weave than design, .as the usual rings, dots and geometric, ornamentations have a ground that Is crossed with . stripes. , A Summery rat for a Little Girl A CHILD'S hat for spring was of pink tuscan straw of a quaint bonnet shape and ifent into a scallop in front, each side of the brim show ing a tiny cluster' of pink flowers while .the crown was encircled with tnessaiina ribbon of the same ahade, . tied hi rosettes and ndlng in long ribbon and to be tied under tho chin. SUITS PGR ,0 Dresses of Silk and Linen Combined ANEW variety of dress shews tha most remarkable combination ot material that has yet been pre sented for the' coming seasoh. Tfiese dresses are of silk with a rather "nOuveau art" design cut In llnert and appliqued around the yoke line, while . a linen belt fastened at one side with two tabs forms the trimming ' for the remarkable costume. One dress of this sort was shown in white silk, while the linen used as decoration, was of pale pink. . The hats to go with these dresses ' are of the straight sailor variety In net, simply trimmed In front with a large bow of wired lace Or net, show ing at least. six single loops standing out toward the four points of the compass. i Popular Colors for Spring COLORS for spring suits! .What a world of possibility! Mulberry and Nattier, Copenhagen and serpent any shade is worn and any shade Is presented to the discrimi nating purchaser. Perhaps the most popular for dressy shits Is the ame ' thyst in shaded stripe, and next Is the brown In two or even three shades. Crushed raspberry, too, comes In for its share - of favor, .and dark blue is always much worn, combined with bright apple green. In Paris "We hear of ruby shades having taken the town by storm, but In this country magenta and cerise are seen on most of the newest hats and summer gowns. Time was when suits were always In the more somber shades, the brighter colors being left for dresses, but nowadays what is suitable for dress la suitable for suit, and vice versa, so that there Is no distinction In ahades for street and bouse gowns, SPRING JO V Gowns for the Elderly Woman GONE are tho days when matrons must array themselves In ao bsr blacks and sad grays, or, at tha giddiest, lavender, after the arrival of tha first grandchild. NoV those Who are passing through .1? chrysalis of the passed thirties know that It Is only for a little while, only A few yeara Uhtll time silvers dun colored locks and turns tho wept over crow'a faet and wrlnklea into the "character llnea" affd patience fur rows" of aga. Then may bo onoe more donned tho dainty colore of youth, taking care that, as only the shadow of former charm Is left, so the colors worn must be softened to uit At a recent social gathering was a dear old lady, and her gown was the; daintiest and moat appropriate of the many there congregated. It was of dark magenta messaline, lustrdus and soft and throwing on her kind, sweet face almost the soft ' flush of youth. The bodice was draped from shoulder to waist and finished . with 'a narrow piping ot velvet of the same shade. , ' The collar and shield-shaped piece in front were, of Venetian lace of a most delicate pattern, made up over chiffon and threaded in an intricate design with thread-of-'gold." Laid over this in small lapels,. soft-; enlns. not concealing, the lace, was a ; small west of the same magenta, but , In filet net outlined with the gold.: The sleeves were large and full, with! aeep cutis or the lace and outlined with soft ruffles which fell Well over her arm. The waist line was indefi nite, the skirt long and full, and with her soft hair piled in white puffs on her head she waa the grande dame, Indeed, and charming to the vision.' Veiling for Spring Hats npHE veils for spring seem to hav mile dots so DODular a year a and to have returned to the plain ne and embroidered variety. Some of th newest have the embroidery In ring1 dots, while others are merely a dou-j ble thread net, and still others, arei plain net with the border ot fancy no Instead of being sold ltr double width, they are now maae single wicun, so tea one veil cannot by any stretching o: Imagination serve for two.- but this is,l of course, brought - about, by- the " fact! that so many of the new -veils" ha vei fancy borders and -it will be Impossi ble to cut- them in half. Tbey com In, ' all colors, however, and- even red vella are predicted as coming favorites. I 1 t
