NOVELTIES
THERE la something moat ap
propriate about a three-quarter
coat ana a walking skirt.
Short coats look somehow 6ut
of place and a long coat aaema only
. suitable (or Stormy or wintry weather,
but a three-auarter coat, wall out and
. woU braided. Is the Ideal mode) for a
, "trotteur," or short skirt.
It la also a great relief that the cre-
. ators of fashion In their wisdom de-
' creed that, although long, tight skirts
were to be worn with dressy or serai i
dressy costumes, little pleated checks'
and atripea were to be the proper
' thing (or morning wear. Who could
quite reconcUe with the fitness of
things a short skirt built on the lines
of a classic garment, and who would
care to adapt a check or plaid to the
fulness of S. tunic skirt T Everything
la wisely decided for this season.
The attractive walking costume
seems to be not only smart, but com
fortable and graceful as well The
' Jabot makes a perfect finish In the
rather low line of the new revers, for
a plain yoke showing beneath the
Jacket always seems to be wanting in
something.
Cashmere cloth In soft shades of
brown Is the most popular material
., for French suits, and they are pret-
tlest when finished with buttons and
-! braid of the same color.
1'. A Francis model la, of plaid cash
mere in tones of gray, with a line of
red Just vtsible. The Jacket of plain
array Is trimmed with black, rose and
, gold, and with It is worn a scarf, one
' of the novelties of the season.
Whatever the women may think"
of the newest thins in coats, at least
they cannot accuse them of being
-'wanting in variety and grace; while
the sleeves shown on spring suits
aeein to have solved the problem for
at leas i anotner six. montns, wnewer
- the solution be satisfactory or not
, Japanese sleeves and their modifies- '
Uons are no longer the vogue, arm
boles are diminished in sire, and the
extra long shoulder line has been re-
duced to human proportions. But the
long sleeve has not yet arrived, a falct
that will bring great joy to some
hearts and much sorrow to others.
However, sleeves are growing grad
ually longer, inch by Inch, and while
they are not expected to follow the
pace of the famous glaciers of the
- world, which move but an inch a year,
tbey are, nevertheless, taking their
own time In reaching the wrist
; New Skirt lining
SOME of the new skirts are being .
lined with soft crepe 4a chine, and
are warn without any petUcoata what
soever. .The umbrella shape at the
foot, which was heralded as the .com
ing fashion, is quite unpopular and
the skirts, if anything, surra Inward
at the toot litis. - :
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Trimmings for Spring
Gowns
FILET net is, without doubt, tho
material mostosed in the mak
ing of waists and costumes for
the coming season, fur it Is com
bined With Valenciennes or Irish, or
sometimes is heavily braided with
narreV soutache. Irish lace, too, is
always popular in combination with
lace or-linen, and now baby Irish la
used tor stiff collars and for the in
sertion at tho foot of the flounce.
Soutactie braid as a trimming is
coming back to the greatest popular
ity, while gold braid, eo much used
last fall, is still being arrangud on
the newest dresses.
Ordinary lace, such as Valenciennes
or mechlin, used to be sufficient for
any costume, but now alone are tiot
handsome enough, and they rnust be
run with gold or silver threads or
otherwise adorned with fancy stitches.
Angel Sleeves Again
EVENING gowns are delightfully
picturesque1 and the sleeves are
things of especial beauty. They
are almost Invariably of thinnest mate
rials and are arranged In such a man
ner that they permit the whole arm to
be seen even while they pretend to
drape it.
"Angel" draperies of chiffon, tulle or
other transparent materials falling low
under ths arms form a most becoming
background for delicate white flesh. On
tho outer side they open right up to the
Shoulder, although sometimes they are
caught together above ths elbow by
light clasp or knot -of velvet Women
with thin arms will find sleeves of this
kind most flattering, as they soften an
gular ouUine and throw becoming
shadow on a sallow aids.
THE OREGON SUNDAY.
SEEN
DESIGNS IN SUITS THAT WILL FIND FAVOR
THE models of the suits for spring wear show that the bolero, popular"; last year, has
had to give way before the all-conquering three-quarter coat. , In fact, the fashion of
the time seems to lean toward a'straightness of line, a simplicity in contour, except'
at the neck, where the jabot is placed to balance the effect Braiding and, buttons have
come back with full favor, and have caif ruffled nndersleevei and embroidered cuffs into
oblivion. - " v:.. c. ;.r ,
The plain skirts would seem to Indicate that the cut ruffle and false tucks are things
of Uie past, though the false tunic, placed between the knees and feet, is noticeable on almost
11 the spring suits. . . ' ' '
Hats are smaller and much more piquant The plain, unbroken line of the basin has
been displaced by the smart little twist to one side and the straight military trimming of
aigrette and quill. . 'w. ' . ;
MATERIALS FOR HOUSE WEAR
N
V spring dresses are all
modes that require - lightness
of material, and therefore
nothing could be better than voile,
which, as ever, holds sway, and never
was it so bewllderlngly beautiful as at
present. There is the Bilk voile, dis
tim tivo and graceful In every sjreep,
;ni the rajah voile, the heavy, rough
tin end that gives it its name lending
body and substance to the material;
while eoliennee in all styles and de
signs win your heart, from the part
cotton variety at less than 60 cents a
yard to one that for its fineness and
delicacy could almost be passed, like
the "West India" fabrics of our
grandmothers, through a slender finger
ring.
Bordures, too, arw shown In all ma
terials for house or semi-dressy
gowns, and one of the most attractive
is the sheerer batiste, a ground cov
ered with small irregular dots of
blue and the border also of blue cov
ered with the wall of Troy design. .
There are also the mercerised cotton
voiles, dainty and cool, with enough
sheen to make them appropriate for
dress occasions, andJacquards, With"
brocaded self-toned flowers in the
ground, while the broad lavender stripe
is lightened with polka dot of white.
A cotton voile with a lace stripe
and embroidered dot Is especially new,
as la cross-barred . material with em
broidered figures In black and white on
a pastel ground.
FA9 rnoussellnes ar I especially
Attractive thl year with a bewilder
ing variety ot new j?aUsras while
JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY
THE
those with hollow rings in black and
heavy coin dot In colors on a white
ground ara fascinating.. :.- ;
Last, but not least, cord the em
broidered ewlasea. Never wire there
more artistic nor beautiful designs.
Dots we hav had before, but never
in such variety, and this year there
are to tempt our pocketbooks mar
velous combinations and effects In
this familiar material. Those with
Shoes and Stockings for
Jaunty Costumes
THI8 spring we have at our disposal ,
the styles of all the seasons in
Shoes and stockings. Oxfords,
pumps, colonial ties, three eyelet shoes,
plain tips, wing tips, brown, black
and whiteall. are foretold as a popular
choice for spring wear: but In all these
shoea the toes are quite pointed, oven
as pointed as they were a good many
year ago, when this characteristic be
came so exaggerated that the pendulum
of compensation swung Back to square
toed boots. , m
Stockings, too, seem to be as varied
as ahoes. for they are open work, hand
embroidered and of softest lisle. As to
color in shoes and stockings, brown will
be the ordinary shade for both morning
and afternoon wearyrand, of course,
brown shoes require brown stockings:
but the popular white shoes are not
made at the present time in buckskin,
for canvas has been found more satis- '
factory and far less expensive.
Taken all together, she who finds It
impossible, to get pleasing footwear will
Indeed be particular, tor Alt the fash- -ton
of bygone years are at her eeirioa.
KORNING. MARCH 2V 1908
PARISIAN
t
spraya of Dresden colored posies
thrown here and there on a white
or colored ground are exquisite and'
. are formidable rivals of the favorite
dot. Then there are many attractive
designs in bordure effects. Lovely
Silk rnoussellnes are shown, the bor
der being made of graduated solid
. circles, overprinted with sprays of
sweet peas In pink or roses and forget-me-nots
In pink and blue.
Printed crepe is a most effective
cotton fabric, and is beautiful in the
new flowered-designs; while a mate
rial called Pekln mousseline, the thin
nest of thin materials, striped with
white satin. Is most effective, the pop
ular blues and browns being seen hare
also, but taking the daintier, softer
porcelain colorings.
A silk voile with broad satin
bands was especially beautiful in a
dark, peculiar blue;-while a messallne
was shown that was fairly startling
in the beauty of its coloring, known
by the technical name of serpent.
The new foulards are newer in
weave than design, .as the usual rings,
dots and geometric, ornamentations
have a ground that Is crossed with .
stripes. ,
A Summery rat for a Little Girl
A CHILD'S hat for spring was of
pink tuscan straw of a quaint
bonnet shape and ifent into a scallop
in front, each side of the brim show
ing a tiny cluster' of pink flowers
while .the crown was encircled with
tnessaiina ribbon of the same ahade, .
tied hi rosettes and ndlng in long
ribbon and to be tied under tho chin.
SUITS
PGR
,0
Dresses of Silk and Linen
Combined
ANEW variety of dress shews tha
most remarkable combination ot
material that has yet been pre
sented for the' coming seasoh. Tfiese
dresses are of silk with a rather
"nOuveau art" design cut In llnert and
appliqued around the yoke line, while
. a linen belt fastened at one side
with two tabs forms the trimming
' for the remarkable costume. One dress
of this sort was shown in white silk,
while the linen used as decoration,
was of pale pink. .
The hats to go with these dresses '
are of the straight sailor variety In
net, simply trimmed In front with a
large bow of wired lace Or net, show
ing at least. six single loops standing
out toward the four points of the
compass. i
Popular Colors for Spring
COLORS for spring suits! .What a
world of possibility! Mulberry
and Nattier, Copenhagen and
serpent any shade is worn and any
shade Is presented to the discrimi
nating purchaser. Perhaps the most
popular for dressy shits Is the ame
' thyst in shaded stripe, and next Is
the brown In two or even three
shades. Crushed raspberry, too, comes
In for its share - of favor, .and dark
blue is always much worn, combined
with bright apple green.
In Paris "We hear of ruby shades
having taken the town by storm, but
In this country magenta and cerise
are seen on most of the newest hats
and summer gowns. Time was when
suits were always In the more somber
shades, the brighter colors being left
for dresses, but nowadays what is
suitable for dress la suitable for suit,
and vice versa, so that there Is no
distinction In ahades for street and
bouse gowns,
SPRING
JO
V
Gowns for the Elderly
Woman
GONE are tho days when matrons
must array themselves In ao
bsr blacks and sad grays, or,
at tha giddiest, lavender, after the
arrival of tha first grandchild. NoV
those Who are passing through .1?
chrysalis of the passed thirties know
that It Is only for a little while, only
A few yeara Uhtll time silvers dun
colored locks and turns tho wept
over crow'a faet and wrlnklea into the
"character llnea" affd patience fur
rows" of aga. Then may bo onoe
more donned tho dainty colore of
youth, taking care that, as only the
shadow of former charm Is left, so
the colors worn must be softened to
uit
At a recent social gathering was a
dear old lady, and her gown was the;
daintiest and moat appropriate of the
many there congregated.
It was of dark magenta messaline,
lustrdus and soft and throwing on
her kind, sweet face almost the soft
' flush of youth. The bodice was draped
from shoulder to waist and finished
. with 'a narrow piping ot velvet of
the same shade. , '
The collar and shield-shaped piece
in front were, of Venetian lace of a
most delicate pattern, made up over
chiffon and threaded in an intricate
design with thread-of-'gold."
Laid over this in small lapels,. soft-;
enlns. not concealing, the lace, was a ;
small west of the same magenta, but
, In filet net outlined with the gold.:
The sleeves were large and full, with!
aeep cutis or the lace and outlined
with soft ruffles which fell Well over
her arm. The waist line was indefi
nite, the skirt long and full, and with
her soft hair piled in white puffs on
her head she waa the grande dame,
Indeed, and charming to the vision.'
Veiling for Spring Hats
npHE veils for spring seem to hav
mile dots so DODular a year a
and to have returned to the plain ne
and embroidered variety. Some of th
newest have the embroidery In ring1
dots, while others are merely a dou-j
ble thread net, and still others, arei
plain net with the border ot fancy no
Instead of being sold ltr double width,
they are now maae single wicun, so tea
one veil cannot by any stretching o:
Imagination serve for two.- but this is,l
of course, brought - about, by- the " fact!
that so many of the new -veils" ha vei
fancy borders and -it will be Impossi
ble to cut- them in half. Tbey com In,
' all colors, however, and- even red vella
are predicted as coming favorites. I
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