...
CHARMING LINES
s.
WHAT could be mora charming
than the lines of the gowns
for afternoon wear? BimpHc
Ity If the watchword, but what a va
riety of slmpleness. what an Individ
uality of style the spring fashion
allow!
For over a century such stralghtness
of line has not been attempted, and
chen last the clinging; style was In
vogue the materials were comparative- ,
ly few. but now there are such a num
ber of textures to choose from that it
seems more impossible to find an un
satisfactory medium for a dress than a
satisfactory one. ,
Everything makes for length of line
the ribbons depending from belts, the
straight, ungathered sleeves, the long,
untrlmmed skirts and the new scarfs
that are at the same time the idlosyn- .
crasy and the rage of the day.
What better mode for wash dresses
could be conceived than the pattern
that fastens In one straight line from
left shoulder to hem; what Idea could
better adapt itself to beautiful voile
than the deep folds of oriental sleeves
and surplice waist; 'and In air the per
fection of detail, what could be more be
coming than the guimpe, whether It be m
lace, embroidery, chiffon, or fine tucVed "
linen?
.The scarfs are wonderful conceptions
and easily arranged so that they add a
graceful touch to(any costume. They
are made of Insertion, filet, cluny or
Irish, and lined sometimes with lib'
erty silk In some light color, with a
broad hem of the silk showing In each
side of the lace. They are worn loose
over the arm and they fall to the
knees, thus carrying out the Grecian
Idea of drapery shown In the famous
picture of Nauslcaa.
Cashmere Is not only used for walk
ing suits, but also for dresses,' while
peacock blue and ruby red remain la
ravor, ,
Soft girdles or suit or satin add me .
....4 tAMAk i & Sit mint aimr 4raaaae
perfect touch to the' quaint new dresses,
ana mese same are oncn oauooi in uta
els of gold or silver.
A new feature la the gown that but
- tons down the side, and it is very smart
and becoming to the woman with the
average figure. These dresses are made
of linen or pongee, though tussor
' Is also used. .
AH the dresses are. finished with a
guimpe of Irish lace, net or embrold
, ered tulle, though cluny is just as fash
ionable and far less expensive.
The sleeve in the gowns are small at
the - armholes and most of them .-are
over an - undersleeve or cuff of lace,
which, however, is not ruffled or gather
a
0
Attractive Combs
NEW back combs are shown, the
top decorated with cut Jet In
many- beautiful designs and
shapes, while for mourning wear the
Jet Is of the dull variety, cut to re
semble crepe. -Other combs are made
of blonde tortoise shell, finished with
huge cut bows or thickly studded
with semi-precious stones. They are
most attractive and sure to hold a
place in the hair dressing of the next
few months, for womankind is rap
idly reverting1 to the simplest of colf
' f ures, and, to prevent the backslid
ing from being too precipitant, hair
dressing will be decorated with many
eeauuiui ana arusuo comDS. .
Summer Evening Wrap
A FEW of the coats shown for even
ing wear during spring and sum
mer months are built quite on the
lines of a chasuble that is to say, made
oblong, so that when a circle has been
made in the center for the neck the
sides are tucked over the arms, and
both back and front extend almost to
the end of the skirt. They are usually
heavily embroidered all round the edge
and up the front and lined with some
light silk or satin, while the cuffs and
collar, are finished with long fluff Us- ,
el la silk or gold. . .
r THE f OREGON SUNDAY
IN PARIS GOWNS
SPECIAL FEATURES OF SPRING
i OR dresses it seems as though the high waist line was a fixture. The empire-princess
gown has been taken up
' V1 figure, if there is one, and hides it if there is not, that its reign bids fair to be long
and successful. ' ' ' ' ' " "
f s The ever-present guimpe is the natural outcome of the long, clingy costume; and it is
used in everythinghigh neck, low neck and half neck while three-quarter sleeves are uni
versally employed, except for decollete gowns.
' The girdles are various in design and height, but they all include long ends hanging at
side, front or back, while the scarfs, which will be carried as a sort of superfluous accessory,
accentuate the fong, flowing line of the present fashion.
1-
An Idea for Braiding
M ANY suits for early spring are
made with quite plain cutaway
coats in which slits have been'
made on both sides of the front and
through which broad soutache braid has
been run. The same Idea is used also
as a decoration for cuffs, and the slits
are best buttonholed, so that the braid
will not tear the material. The end of
the braid is mltered and finished In a
BUk tassel.
An Old Material in Fashion
ONE of the season's revivals In
street materials ' Is - prunella
cloth, a fabric something on
the order of a cashmere, but heavier
and therefore more satisfactory from
the tailor's standpoint This year it
is brought , out in shadow stripes,
that showing the chevron being par
ticularly good. . ,
Silk Frogs for Spring Coats
MANY of the dresses shown for
spring wear are fastened down
the front with frogs-made of
radium silk, twisted around a founda
tion of heavy white cord. By this
method one may be sure that- the
fastening of the dress exactly matches
the material, which la impossible
: when It la necessary .to buy braid.
JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY - HORNING, ' MARCH 22. -
so enthusiastically by women, who
at
Home-Made Blouses
A PRETTY blouse, easily made at
home, might be copied after one
seen on a shopping ' tour. It
was simply bands of cheap cluny
insertion, the kind-formerly used on
curtains, sewed together the length
of the blouse and made perfectly
plain. The small puff sleeves were
made the same way, and the collar
was a band of the same. This
could be varied by inserting a 'collar
and square neckpiece of tucked net,'
edged with Valenciennes, and making
cuffs to match, while velvet or rib
bon ef the color ' of the suit with
which It is worn could be introduced
with good effect
Tulle Toques
STRAW toques are predicted as
being; the rage for the coming:
season, but there are many wom
en who do not care for straw used in
this way, and these will wear toques
made of pleated tulle or net, orna
mented only by beads to match
wound round them and a stiff mili
tary aigrette. These are really very
chlo, and tha beads, when they are
Jn shades to match the hats, are most
hecoming and quite a novel touch to
hats made on this aid of the ocean.
....... -i .
FOR
COSTUMES
find that it improves the
f'j
The Diabolo Hat
nIABOLO has been the game and
now diabolo Is the new shape
for the spring hat. It gets U
name from the crown, which' Is
shaped like the spool of the French
nastime. It Is six inches In heiorht
and curved In at the middle. -
The ones seen up to date have been
wire frames covered with shirred
net and around the depression in the
crown a black velvet ribbon fastens
several plumes to the side. ;
Inexpensive Bands
ANEW hat for a child of 10 la
shown simply trimmed with a
deep band of wide ribbon on
which is appliqued several large roses
cut from cretonne and fastened on
with an outline Of gold thread.
This is a vary simple idea and one
easily carried out and if it can be
worn by the children there is no rea
son why walking hats for women
should not be adorned In the same way.
Sashes in Style Again
WIDE sashes of black satin, with
long fringed ends, are seen .
on exclusive models In cash
mere visiting crowns. These are
draped in high corselet fashion and
lit anuglx to tha figure.
; KH , V , l- . .-' . . ; ;'.:.
1903
AFTERNOON
The Reign of the Tassel
TASSELS, tassels everywhere, be
It dangling from - the latest
neckgear or hanging from tha
big1 drapery seen on so many of the
new costumes for spring and summer.
They hang behind the dainty ear of
the girl who wears her most fetching
tulle hat or they bedeck the skirt of
the society matron as she stands in lino
at reception or tea.
Everywhere seen, everywhere ad
mired, it is a consolation to know
that If necessary they can be most
easily made at home. Those of silver
or gold cord (are most effective if
used sparingly.
Embroidered Coats
THE newest coats art cut with the -long
panels down each side of
the front and each side of the
back, which are heavily embroidered
with braid and handwork. A remark,
able thing about these la that they
. extend almost to the knees, while the
middle of the back and the sides are
quite short, the slit extending above
the waist The sleeves of these eoats
are quite wide, with an inside sleeve
of lace, which doe not show unless
the arm Is extended straight out. The .
collars are finished with a band 0( -embroidery,
while the front of the
coats fasten . over an embroidered
veeV- . , - - , -
WEAR
X
Parasols for Morning ancf ;
Afternoon '
PARASOLS, as ever, are' of whtt
linen, embroidered in many beau
. tlf ul and elaborate designs', al
though some for morning wear are in
pongee decorated' with a pattern car
ried In shades of tan. ; One really re
markable parasol was finished ' around
the edge with a row of arbutus, which
was embroidered In lightest tan and
shades of delicate pink. , , . ,( ,
For dressy occasions Una white Unon
is very popular, incrusted with lace
medallions and embroidered in sprays
of flowers and twining vines. Irish
lace is frequently used for this purpose. 1
and sometimes, it forms a ruffle around
the edge and a second half war be- -
lZLcn thf order. nd . which
makes a double ruffle on the parasol
borne white parasols are lined .with
pink silk to give a pretty color-to the
it,cJB,mMdi 1ther. r. no mbroldered.
but merely have lace insertion placed in
many curves around the edge. The
handles are quite remarkable in that
they are enameled to match the. dress,
and sometimes they are flnished-at th
end with a little crystal ball ot a gold
box containing a powder puff. These
sticks are, however,- extremely exnen.
slve, and many women find that thev
must be contented with wooden handles
colored with paint; but neverthel sS
woods are n o?eused8?,b1' ,u, "
Motor Costume for SpnW
WHEN milady, goes automo
blling she must bs provided
with a dust-proof cloak which
Sfni kf bJ? ap' tllat ner dress
W2i1Abnt?,ly Protected. On her
head she will wear a small strnw
ISSJK ke,P th ' " " w
ft wnPJ-1! Up.both . that
i7L1k ' front and back: this
,,! finish her motor costume.
rJWH nw y the way, ' is
rather a novelty, and it bids fair to
Ja,jdy " vorlt. for it uk s
away that extremely plain look that
hfr8d Ve,J to the back t-f
the, head, -and provides a coquttUu
' bw'orth,.bs.ck Bell as for t
fronU Beauty Is not its only virtu-,
for It would need a strong wind to blow
tw,fr tht anchored by such u nur
veil as this.- ' , .- . , ;
Another veil (s of chiffon cloth wlfh
large taffeta dots and hound ait rm
with a taffeta silk blndinsr. T! m h
useful In the extreme, for tun hu; ) -makes
the veil both ftrnt an.i i'ir..i. ,
but it lS not SO llKht Btl'l Hi,
as the little veil tiiat tie ;j-. i i., s
bead. . .