Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (April 9, 1905)
f r - I a. 1 Smart v WbmciSi -Are Using Fintv ' Steer Materials A for Una erwear. Stirred Ruffle rimmings and . .Lace Insets Being Popular, witn Ruffles ' '? 'VV';'"'' i-''.'.,'1'" '.;"'".,--'' "W;V'v -HWn Fabrics for Petticoats. -r Gowns : Low lMeckec Skort SleeveJ. . i "TP TT EXtTS rlln from th wm but IM elm4 than la tha amart t waar. Bimr, ima Baiariaia . ..,th nacK or tha own la aqoara, out-. - ara uaed ta tha aicJuaion Of tha mora lined with wlda Valenotannca laca. ap--. opaqaa waarea which wonD fonnarljr piiquad upon tha top of tb (orea In a wora. Llnan town, nalnaook an4 batlata vary Irraa-ular atria, and aloolnc Jown ' ara favoiitea amonc thaaa, and all thaaa tha front . Each adaa of tba opening In with trimming of lac fabrica ara coatly aa wall aa durabla. front la bordarad with narrow Inacrtlna, . . ... -. Thla fMhlon may b Imluted cheaply and tha -gown la tied with rlbbona at na a?t"out aiamonaa, y. ' by uaina lawna which ara f cotton or tba top. .. . 4; . m ... 'f, '. , -'. ' which aall from ( cants up to It cente a A wide band of Valenolennaa lac la C Chic nightgown ."yard, and will acarcaly laat ona aaaaon appllqued acroaa tba front,, below' the -i.u dainrr neck and i ' of tha aort of laanderlng now In to trie. bunt, causing tha narrow gore topa to . ri ,J Wbn ona considers that an Jirtlcte form panels, crossed by a narrow band aleerea of Talanciennea '.'known ''-tm ;.lha daatmctibla ..laundry; of lace. f, '.:... .;;. .,'vi ,.... e '!' v y-A-y. ' wnngai U aotaally advartlaad, ona may i Tha laca around tha neck Karrowa upon J" v 5; : ; Imagina what woman hat ta anticipate tha ahoulder above a short, email slcave. 1 - ''. ' ' ' - whan buylnt . materlala for underwear Thla retching little aleere U made by ? trCoriatl. COiwr, "which must go through tha procaaa of destruction more than once. .... ' a mw.A MluL.b mini nn.ll.w ' and fine texture aell at from It -cents n 'yard up, while linen fawn sells from ?t nenta a yard up. These materlala laat a long time and alway look well and feel comfortable, so that there Is real con, ,omy In wearing them. Cheaper forms of durable underww v com in ellk, both in the flexible Italian , allk. which haa something f stockinette v aoft allks, Includmg China. Japanese and TndiA mi I wa tdi last nsmea m Terr garment fold - into the least possible apace and are a light that they acaroe y Increase the weight of the bag at all. Bilk underwear, is ortea embroidered hy hand upon the fronts of th gowns, chrmlsM and corset cover, end the edges of th garments art elthar em- broldered or finished with an dglng of luirrow laca. , ' , . , . - Underwear to mad. so that it will aet enugly to the figure and not interfere la any way with the fit of the areas, worn aver It. What flufflhes or fullnees ther may1 b come In front ot waist and at tb. bottom of skirt. ' , I A verv elaborate gown to shown In m.' v. it is rnt In the narrow French V.: Jr. "Slr-Ti-Tv "-"' .'" "'rv rimrv "op. with i T.. ... . h tnr Xb (oca art jjolsed togeUief wlUi s cheap and makea extremely Mght and tlon preserved around the ng U very l-o. in the tct th. outer .idea; and above a the material. . Acroaa ths .back the mate- , comforubl. underwear. ."ractlve. and th. .mail ahapad flounca ?Jin,'hh.h "JT.r?"! VTTolrw' rtoM. only drawn In one' row. Th. top ' , Wk Vnderwea. fO. Travrt. V which finishes th gown 1. furthr. tab. "lth glli? tZ In.', wlda ' toh with. haarln, and.aa.ad.. , -J ror.twlto amrpoMa Ut Bi &??&&ui2fl '' ftUfatylaf,praeUcal.ow .j4aat.Jn.iht.wMdH .ih. tv to 1t It --xfound th bottom Is sewed strip of I a consideration, when an want aw- J1"1 " uannTinS-S '-l'-. -l '. '. -i V "' . I -." li-i -. -. -. ' --"rT".' .'- .:: - L7 l beading, through which ribbon is ". ... . . . - , -w. wide band or irregular lace, appllqued uu-u-ua. niamn -l i t. i -i. -u-l -. -l ij-iini-(. y -- i im u i. ji u, htim vihiwina M (I 4 Mrrow Insertlnv of Valenctbnne Hoi, which narly all padple 011 .VaL. for taking a bit of tba goods,, folding It along th straight edge and curving Jt wall Aawj M Mill. mA .IfMilMM 1 narrow at the top. When the aurved part is seared Into the armhol th open portions hang In graceful points. Tha .bottom and outer edges of the sleeve are trimmed with lace, appllqued on, add the armhole la outlined with narrow laca inaerting n th nndei pari, - - -, . AU this fine and delicate handiwork la repeated In the elaborate manner In torn in alternate wide medallions of lace ana tsoe ox linen. ne irrvauiar lormi on the material, which to then out away from beneath "IC ".' ". ;. ," ' . : : Aa Aid of Xlegant ImpUotty, .' Notwithstanding all th work ' upon thla fUmy nightgown, it waa ta klr of elegant atmpllotty that la th acme ot smartness. j... '.v . . Much more simple la th gown shown In Fig. B. . It I made of batiste, ind haa narrow Valenciennes Inserting aet In the r w mra i.mw ' " , These have their rough edges turned back In Dointa. which are'then feather - .i.k ,in.. .lib eia .inknMan mi. . ....... The cutting of these diamonds makea a verv nrettv Irrerular formation about tha low neck of the gown and neiow tna .i. tt TU i-i.h XUnUunM the neck, end ihrm.eh th. heedins h be run ribbon U one pleat. 11 : v 7 A Smart .nlghtcowa' of fin lawn and, lac,' mad with levn (orct. "': B Simplt nightgown .hnwlnr " hew ahirrcd '' . , ; ' - '. i i TUIIia. .. .- j '"'- ..vji '. , 1 : SConat. cover of ft '':-.,;' ' -,., ' "nifI f1?' aaaaw f "with, drawn' work. . t , - ;',) , -,.,"''' - 'C F-Strutt Chemia appllqued with Dnch0 lace. ; ... , m ' rr n G Effectivd pattieoat flounce mada In lata trimmed jmnela. 5 Th little puffet aleeves hav two dla- mwuu v . u ihhwihi, vuuimv wiw By a Wife Who Xnowa. ; ; H JO old proverb says: "There are (h,u Ihln.a vhlnh nan ha mill, , sg-ed only . by coaaing a. kid . rov, a flra and a man." Take my advice and 'never try any otner 'method with a husband. ' Ths woman, Marrtaa or alnvla arhn flrhts for her .i.hl. ham h,il Aftn A fftlt at Instj whilt he who1 takea them grs- clnusly is allowed to walk off freely. If not inviteo to come dbck again. - - itnr mareiea eramen elf ted with evert ...nT mnrv ,. have her own way quite ..much. If not more, than Is good for her. 1f only she he care- iul aiwaxa td del hC Aomtnat lord !v Don t;Try to Drive Your . Hus land AC .r. amvmmm m w "-saw " - GOTUONdV FDB THE i r- f ,i ... rr, ,' 1 (. 'Id ts shown In Fig. Vv It has a low neck mu . w- ...... and master, and nver.allow any one, himself least of all. to auspeet that she haa haen ahla' in ntnuailo him that her way 1 hla own. Ths secret of her pow- er Ilea In a nutshell It Is the power be- jiina the throne whlcn never opemy a - eert Itself. - ' All men hate in ha ruled: Indeed, no man aatll ha If h. knnvl t -. Tha woman who la truly mistress of her household never falls to set her husband upon n p-neemii ana o lneiat inn an mm "r, hold shall honor him as lord and master tn-raar. . .. . w , ... - Oere-enc. to her hu.bn1 Is ha drop .of oil wlYlrh keeps the wheel" of th. do- metUc machine ruunici atnoothly. 7 C "1 Hi : w i .t-7. ' fullness, and the adgs of tha open part If we keep up tha fad. who know but v of tha front are trimmed with lace. - that noma day we may aae upon tha tomb .Points of laca appllqued upon dees or an Amerloan woman an epitaph slml Valenclennea ruffles form the smaJJ lar to" that of Cathartna Woper. in West- Bleeres. and a bow of ribbon la worn In mlnatar Abbey. SUqulalte at Ua needle. .front. " - . Both laoa and ambrotdary ara much - The bottom i-of the 'gown la simply fin- used upon underwear, and the dtatlno Ished with a hem and three tucka. - tlon between amart and commonplace up -f A pretty way In which to trim under- "rwear Ilea In tha trimming. Ona usee garments Is to edge the neck, aleevea arta" I"1 anough trimming to give beauty and V bottom with a double fold, ruffled to the eleganoe, the other .nllea on. trimming materlaL Thla fold la left open ao that lndtacrlmlnately. i . .. -. ribbon may be run through the ruffles. ; BoMad Xnaltn yiomnssa. " V . When the rlbbona ara drawn, a charming "' . Quite a new fad for finishing pettl etfcot of khlrred bands Is" produced, to- eoata has torn to us from abroad. .This gather with tha daintiest ' glimpses of B nothing less than making, tha flounces i. olcr-ahowlna- throua tha sheer white a AattA nuMlin. strlDad. ftwurad aad raffles. Bows of ribbon nrOut on nrher- evr one wame tnem. shear aa to texture, - v . . ' Thla new form of trimming haa much Another fancy for trimming petticoats .' ta commend- It. . In the flrat place It la hi to have gored flounce mada In pan ' ' cheap. In the second simple and pretty, ), and cut narrower at the top than at .- and In the third It eaves the wear and the bottom. Thla atyla of flounce Is tear of laundering, for the rufftoa aannot vary bouffant and fluffy at tha bottom readily o torn, while laoa and ambroid ni looks quite billowy with its masses " ery are almply pulled to shreds. : ot rufflea and edges of laca. -. A Vnelean Kind of Ooraet Oeraair 1 Fig. Q Illustrates such a Poeoat A,eortet cover trimmed In thla man- It la made of lawn, with .narrow 'bait. Tier la ahown In fig. O. ' . , -w - - The. back of the corset cover la mada . i. .w. .. v... t. A t - . . ' ' f '- r .' c T seven rows of embroidery or lace run be- tween alternate band of ths materlaL ' The belt Is of embroidery, with a fitted ' skirt piece below it. ' ' K '. " - The ' corset cover which are mad - without skirts ars, Z think useless. : ' - A corset cover Is intended to prevent corsets from becoming soiled from frto- tlon with dresa helts, aa nearly all col- ored materlala will rub oft on th bolt ..line. The belt line la. I think, tha plana ; which' most needs protection from eoll v Ing, and people who do hot want tha ex , tra thickness of a belt under tha skirt cannot add very much to their girth by 1 a thin strip of laca or embroidery. - In Fig. K, however, l ahown a eoreet -cover without a skirt. It Is ao simple In construction that a child can make one. .. A strlo of sheer mnterlal, just large enough to fit loosely around the body Z'l, VLtI i ZZZnt t a wide band drawn,, and the corset cover fits. Across the shoulders are ribbon straps finished with bows. : - .''...' i ' Borne of the prettlast handiwork don upon underwear la to b seen upon fine chemises. ' These are elaborately- em broidered In designs of small flowers, or .s richly trimmed with Inserts of laca. A simple but smart chemise is shown in Fig. F. S ' . t . ' N The. garment fit looaaly, and It square neck, pointed In front, has points - oi n. i.iiiu piece of lsc. ar set in eh ld th front, and tn. armnoia is sogea wun IflCC. Around the bottom hemmed by hand, and headed by three - ------- v.'fc . It will be seen that fine handwork May a conspicuous part in all fine un d'rwe.N and w. nr. 7Jurnl-.g. to th. day When women frised needlework ln Uut tba aUtchea did -not .now. V A. ii i fancy materials, simple of desfgn and f 'ront. nT,i rawg te.hlckl - v. Tha nettiooat Korea terminate Man above the knee, and here a band or em- L broidery ladder beading, tnrougn wbicn n ribbon may barun, la set at tba Bead of a deep. Shaped flounce. Thla baa i ternaU Dane la of Plain and tucked Uwn, ; -Tba plain panala ara aarrowad at tba top 'v- .'.' and tha tucked one have tha tucka re : leased the few Inches from tha upper afl-e."-Thr Vandyke Points are tnsart- d In tha- plain panels. . Three rows of Inserting are eat above a bottom ruffle, which Is trimmed with laoa and falls rer a similar ruffle trimmed with nr f rower laca. -: '''''".'. Although vary alaborata, thla atyla of . peuicoai iiounce w ! aa valumlnona around tba bottom aa to hold out well the moat filmy of dress matariaia, ' V - Another stylo of ruffle can ba mad by using dotted muslin In panels sepeH a ted oy lace inwnini. uca iianw should have three tnch-wlde tucka at the top.- Tha release of theae makea tha bot tom of tha flounce very full . Wide lac should trim the edge of auch a flounce, which la finished with an under-floune - trimmed wlth narrower lac and made without tocke. ' ' . A JOS EPA WILflONT 0BBORN. It ifKTx' were talking .abont th trlk down at. th lawyers' dnb laat Tuesday When one of th company, now. an et-Judgo, told thla tory: t ' , - - ' " -It was a strike that decided my dea tiny., t was A vrdant- pri or ne law In a county Mat of what w how call the mlddl west. My ealngla haa ertanaa in tha winds of dreary winter mntll it had lost Its shapa, and not,.cltont had oalled. I foresaw that tna urn waa near at hand whan I sbouia nave to bolster my credit with my Undlord ar leave, -' ' -' .';" ', ."A- atroiiin ''0ncle Tonva Cabin eampany came tn town In search of food and rest and persuaded th sheriff to let them ply In tn court sesw iw w" nights. In th afternoon before the rir.t aaef ormanoe the manager af the company clambered np the rickety stair way whlcn lea to my formed' tarn that ana of th. toetaber r his nomnanr had atruck. ' "M wanted la know If ther Was any law which would compel th fellow a at While trying to think of some statut. that would cover tha case ( aawarf tha manaxer what part the recal oltrant had played. Ha repltod that it waa Marks, the lawyer. "Before, I had collected my thoughts th . manager added; 'J'. " ' ' " . "1 don't care at much about forcing him to do th part. U I oould get any body to take hi place, for he's th poor est stick In the company. He couldB it even play th Pft of on Of the blood hounds.' ' '" ' '"- ' . ' . i than Inouired how much Of A part Marka waa. I had never aeen th. play but onre. and I eooldn t recall any. ehar .Ma in tha oast except To pay, - f reckon thsrt ta nobody in yon town aald the, manager, who could play lh. Hart. ' ' - . t- .' :' " '"' ''' , - "t asked blm hox ttuch-hd would i '- Hit - Strike ;'Le'J to'i-Hjs.-'Fortune'-Vcf VTTZ " t a woman la married to a i flnda out that he la ' Of en of t e 1.1 who are easily dia- ."T. , ooaraed; aad who ore quick to glv Up In t.ia,' face of dlff '-xltlea. ; Thla is1 U.e type of man 4 if he lh kertta money, early in Ufa develops a ponvenleat aL'"nent that . prevents him from hoalit totatoes. .but prmla him ta play go4 and who. If ha la poor, is th perpetufcl victim of cruel Injustice from hl eirplover, and who haa the' knack! of always coming home when the' larder la lowest, and tha children most raj-yed. with the announcement that ha haa lost hie Job. .- , , The truth la that such men have no eouraga. and whenever they come ' up , saatnat anything that la really hard they ' throw up their hands and quit. g In her heart every woman baa more or lass of a contempt, however fond she may be of him. for the man who haa not strength anough to atand. alone.' and ' grit enough to bear things without . whin, '"probably th moat blighting . disap pointment that ever' cornea to a wife ,1a when aha dtaoover that aha baa got 40 brae her huaband tip, and that if there Is any oak tree and' twining, vine lnv theirs, ah haa got to Jinderetudy; the oak. ; ' :' " ' :; The picture l a, grt big. husky man doing the clinging about a fremitus ' woman 1 not n ehromo that appeala to tha fmnlnlnalmaj1natlOn.-" . . ' ntin. it Is a fact that s great many -women encounter to their matrimonial experience, - There' ara plenty .ox men who have no more backbone than a fish ing worm, and -about tha hardest job that any woman aver tackles la to try to make a. man out of on of theae wishy-washy, floppy things. ' , But K can be done, and the question that al Wit who flnda bareelf in such a position should ask herself is, "What .n t aaf Haw can I strengthen thla man ao that ha wlU do hla fart In the world? How can I prevent nm wwimn from wracking my Ufa, and ml ohll- 1, dren'a lives, ss Well as hla owr . The first thing that auch woman should do ta to hide her real opinion of her Husband ao deep down in her-eoul that ha WlU never dlacovar. it- It la ; fatal to reproach hlra with hie failures, ta remind htm Of his mistakes, to point out to him hla eowardloa, v - -i Such a man's essential vwoen ; In lack of self-confidence. Th only way you can do anything with htm la to build thla up. and It should be hla wlfe-a dally and hourly effort to simply saturate him ; with ber faith in him. --- .'For a wlf to flatter aatrong huaband ls doubtful ' policy, v If yon swell hla : head.- you frequently make blm over- K bearing and tyrannical, but with a weak man even -conceit la the lesser evil, and there can be no question of th wledom -. of a wife applying flattery with a laviah hand. -." " ; ' ' ' :- .... ' She ahould make bar husband belleva that she thlnke him the greatest man In ths world, and tha otrongeat ; and tha moat unshakable, and itwouldnt aur- :. priae bar particle If he moved moun tains, or set the river on ' v : Bh ahould alng tha might of hi eour- age. of bla determination, of his perse-, verance, in never-ending - paean of pralaa. . '" ' v j! ' '" 0 . She ahould harp' upon th grim oour aga with which ha stood hla aos and did hi oy wh" wT"JTk !!- th Spartan fortitude wtth-Whwh. h endured hardship before which thera . 2. man kW that n. d not possess these qualltlea for which hi wife lands him. the more sure he I to affect them, and try to itva npr to what J he belleva aha thinks he 1. There m no , other man who makea auch a showier bravery aa tha man who auspeet hi wn ooomg.' " : , . .' . . .' -,; Nor hould anybody dpt htm for thla. Many a here would hav ran off ; the battlefield tf It hadn t that ha wa ashamed that his comrades ahould sea that h wan frightened, and U W eaosa b to ashamed for his wife to eea that he to a onward that many a man Uke the brae be noed. to make him . fight hi batUa of Ufa 'YV'7'i' ' TM woman who Is married U tha easUy discouraged mart must deny her-, aeif the pleaaure ot ympathlslng with him. Bach men have a craving for pity , that la Hk n opium fiend' hankering . for the pip They can dope themselyee -no to It until they lose eirergy; ambition and even ehama at being failure. . J ' Hope, praise, courage, encouragement. : theaa are tha levers with which a 'Wife may boost her weak huaband up t ladder, bat gympathy wUl pull him , Of oourse It la a tranuoaa undertak ing to aiur a man character and t ; graft on to him qualities that he doe not possess by nature, but 4 wife' Tor. ton U bound un in her huaband -What he I socially and financially, sha la. and If ah sua down quietly and : aocapu fallura ah la aa Weak and .cow ardly aa h to. - v. -.' - ' for a good man. H replied that it wa hla custom tn pay on share after -tha box office receipts wer counted. W said that Marks had made $10 tha last , nlcht he fclayed. but that ha had taken out aa mach aaytl.l9 on arreral occa;' Attr further eoneultntio i -gita t do the not. In order t worn up a good houM I did n HtU press agent stunt on th aide. 'I uggeted that ha gt out aom handbllM announcing mat. n young lawyer at the town had volun teered to play th part of Marks. . "The aid own house wa crowded,, Curiosity In tha town waa on tiptoe t see th lawyer. My make-up would hav concealed my identity t a masquerade. had rehearsed my part for two hours' th first work I had donvby the wy, eino I openad my.ahop. i . ' "Bat I was not acquainted with the dog in th company. When I cam on th dog got loose, and th part h played -in trying to disarrange my umbrella wa not in'th play, In fighting him off, X, part of my disguise was removed and I ' stood before th audience, revealed. . IwTh bouse howled with delight I' want on with my part and got all the applause. Tha audience waited for me. After tha show wa over -th manager ' banded me tS, the first money I hod earned In the' town. H offered me a guarantee of tl for th next night If I would appear, and promised t tie up the dog. - . .., " ';",.' ;v ' ' . "But t bad had enough, I returned to my afflca. Ths next day I dtd some law business; It kept coming my Vajr, and Inside of year. I had more than I oould do. 5 : t-i -' " "A feW year Later X became prosecut ing attorney. and then I went; on . the be nob. I served thro terms, , retired, nd earn east. In n way, I never hear of A strike that I do not feel Inclined to ajmnatUaa with 1C1 ;..-v: r,
