The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, April 09, 1905, Image 26

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Smart v WbmciSi -Are Using
Fintv ' Steer Materials A for
Una erwear. Stirred Ruffle
rimmings and . .Lace Insets
Being Popular, witn Ruffles
' '? 'VV';'"'' i-''.'.,'1'" '.;"'".,--'' "W;V'v -HWn
Fabrics for Petticoats. -r
Gowns : Low lMeckec
Skort SleeveJ. .
i
"TP TT EXtTS rlln from th wm
but IM elm4 than la tha amart
t waar. Bimr, ima Baiariaia . ..,th nacK or tha own la aqoara, out-.
- ara uaed ta tha aicJuaion Of tha mora lined with wlda Valenotannca laca. ap--.
opaqaa waarea which wonD fonnarljr piiquad upon tha top of tb (orea In a
wora. Llnan town, nalnaook an4 batlata vary Irraa-ular atria, and aloolnc Jown
' ara favoiitea amonc thaaa, and all thaaa tha front . Each adaa of tba opening In with trimming of lac
fabrica ara coatly aa wall aa durabla. front la bordarad with narrow Inacrtlna, . . ... -.
Thla fMhlon may b Imluted cheaply and tha -gown la tied with rlbbona at na a?t"out aiamonaa, y.
' by uaina lawna which ara f cotton or tba top. .. . 4; . m ... 'f, '. , -'.
' which aall from ( cants up to It cente a A wide band of Valenolennaa lac la C Chic nightgown
."yard, and will acarcaly laat ona aaaaon appllqued acroaa tba front,, below' the -i.u dainrr neck and i
' of tha aort of laanderlng now In to trie. bunt, causing tha narrow gore topa to . ri ,J
Wbn ona considers that an Jirtlcte form panels, crossed by a narrow band aleerea of Talanciennea
'.'known ''-tm ;.lha daatmctibla ..laundry; of lace. f, '.:... .;;. .,'vi ,.... e '!' v y-A-y.
' wnngai U aotaally advartlaad, ona may i Tha laca around tha neck Karrowa upon J" v 5; : ;
Imagina what woman hat ta anticipate tha ahoulder above a short, email slcave. 1 - ''. ' ' '
- whan buylnt . materlala for underwear Thla retching little aleere U made by ? trCoriatl. COiwr,
"which must go through tha procaaa of
destruction more than once. .... '
a mw.A MluL.b mini nn.ll.w
' and fine texture aell at from It -cents n
'yard up, while linen fawn sells from ?t
nenta a yard up. These materlala laat a
long time and alway look well and feel
comfortable, so that there Is real con,
,omy In wearing them.
Cheaper forms of durable underww
v com in ellk, both in the flexible Italian
, allk. which haa something f stockinette
v aoft allks, Includmg China. Japanese and
TndiA mi I wa tdi last nsmea m Terr
garment fold - into the least possible
apace and are a light that they acaroe
y Increase the weight of the bag at all.
Bilk underwear, is ortea embroidered
hy hand upon the fronts of th gowns,
chrmlsM and corset cover, end the
edges of th garments art elthar em-
broldered or finished with an dglng of
luirrow laca. , ' , . ,
. - Underwear to mad. so that it will aet
enugly to the figure and not interfere la
any way with the fit of the areas, worn
aver It. What flufflhes or fullnees
ther may1 b come In front ot waist
and at tb. bottom of skirt. ' , I
A verv elaborate gown to shown In
m.' v. it is rnt In the narrow French
V.: Jr. "Slr-Ti-Tv
"-"' .'" "'rv
rimrv "op. with i
T.. ... . h tnr
Xb (oca art jjolsed togeUief wlUi
s cheap and makea extremely Mght and tlon preserved around the ng U very l-o. in the tct th. outer .idea; and above a the material. . Acroaa ths .back the mate-
, comforubl. underwear. ."ractlve. and th. .mail ahapad flounca ?Jin,'hh.h "JT.r?"! VTTolrw' rtoM. only drawn In one' row. Th. top
' , Wk Vnderwea. fO. Travrt. V which finishes th gown 1. furthr. tab. "lth glli? tZ In.', wlda ' toh with. haarln, and.aa.ad..
, -J ror.twlto amrpoMa Ut Bi &??&&ui2fl '' ftUfatylaf,praeUcal.ow .j4aat.Jn.iht.wMdH .ih. tv to 1t It --xfound th bottom Is sewed strip of
I a consideration, when an want aw- J1"1 " uannTinS-S '-l'-. -l '. '. -i V "' . I -." li-i -. -. -. ' --"rT".' .'- .:: - L7 l beading, through which ribbon is
". ... . . . - , -w. wide band or irregular lace, appllqued uu-u-ua. niamn -l i t. i -i. -u-l -. -l ij-iini-(. y -- i im u i. ji u, htim vihiwina M
(I
4
Mrrow Insertlnv of Valenctbnne Hoi,
which narly all padple 011 .VaL. for
taking a bit of tba goods,, folding It
along th straight edge and curving Jt
wall Aawj M Mill. mA .IfMilMM 1
narrow at the top. When the aurved
part is seared Into the armhol th open
portions hang In graceful points. Tha
.bottom and outer edges of the sleeve
are trimmed with lace, appllqued on, add
the armhole la outlined with narrow laca
inaerting n th nndei pari, - - -, .
AU this fine and delicate handiwork
la repeated In the elaborate manner In
torn in alternate wide medallions of lace
ana tsoe ox linen. ne irrvauiar lormi
on the material, which to then out away
from beneath "IC ".' ". ;. ," ' . :
: Aa Aid of Xlegant ImpUotty,
.' Notwithstanding all th work ' upon
thla fUmy nightgown, it waa ta klr of
elegant atmpllotty that la th acme ot
smartness. j... '.v .
. Much more simple la th gown shown
In Fig. B. . It I made of batiste, ind haa
narrow Valenciennes Inserting aet In the r
w mra i.mw ' " ,
These have their rough edges turned
back In Dointa. which are'then feather -
.i.k ,in.. .lib eia .inknMan mi.
. .......
The cutting of these diamonds makea
a verv nrettv Irrerular formation about
tha low neck of the gown and neiow tna
.i. tt
TU i-i.h
XUnUunM the neck, end
ihrm.eh th. heedins h be run ribbon
U one pleat.
11
: v
7
A Smart .nlghtcowa'
of fin lawn and, lac,'
mad with levn (orct.
"': B Simplt nightgown
.hnwlnr
" hew ahirrcd ''
. , ; ' - '. i i
TUIIia. ..
.- j '"'- ..vji '. , 1 :
SConat. cover of ft
'':-.,;' ' -,., '
"nifI f1?' aaaaw f
"with, drawn' work.
. t , - ;',) , -,.,"''' - 'C
F-Strutt Chemia appllqued with Dnch0 lace. ; ... , m '
rr n
G Effectivd pattieoat flounce mada In lata trimmed jmnela.
5 Th little puffet aleeves hav two dla-
mwuu v . u ihhwihi, vuuimv wiw
By a Wife Who Xnowa. ; ;
H JO old proverb says: "There are
(h,u Ihln.a vhlnh nan ha mill,
, sg-ed only . by coaaing a. kid
. rov, a flra and a man." Take
my advice and 'never try any otner
'method with a husband. ' Ths woman,
Marrtaa or alnvla arhn flrhts for her
.i.hl. ham h,il Aftn A fftlt
at Instj whilt he who1 takea them grs-
clnusly is allowed to walk off freely. If
not inviteo to come dbck again. - -
itnr mareiea eramen elf ted with evert
...nT mnrv ,. have
her own way quite ..much. If not more,
than Is good for her. 1f only she he care-
iul aiwaxa td del hC Aomtnat lord
!v Don t;Try to Drive Your . Hus land
AC
.r.
amvmmm m w "-saw " -
GOTUONdV FDB THE i r- f
,i ...
rr,
,'
1 (.
'Id
ts shown In Fig. Vv It has a low neck
mu . w- ......
and master, and nver.allow any one,
himself least of all. to auspeet that she
haa haen ahla' in ntnuailo him that her
way 1 hla own. Ths secret of her pow-
er Ilea In a nutshell It Is the power be-
jiina the throne whlcn never opemy a -
eert Itself. - '
All men hate in ha ruled: Indeed, no
man aatll ha If h. knnvl t -. Tha woman
who la truly mistress of her household
never falls to set her husband upon n
p-neemii ana o lneiat inn an mm "r,
hold shall honor him as lord and master
tn-raar. . .. . w , ...
- Oere-enc. to her hu.bn1 Is ha drop
.of oil wlYlrh keeps the wheel" of th. do-
metUc machine ruunici atnoothly.
7 C
"1
Hi
: w i .t-7.
' fullness, and the adgs of tha open part If we keep up tha fad. who know but
v of tha front are trimmed with lace. - that noma day we may aae upon tha tomb
.Points of laca appllqued upon dees or an Amerloan woman an epitaph slml
Valenclennea ruffles form the smaJJ lar to" that of Cathartna Woper. in West-
Bleeres. and a bow of ribbon la worn In mlnatar Abbey. SUqulalte at Ua needle.
.front. " - . Both laoa and ambrotdary ara much
- The bottom i-of the 'gown la simply fin- used upon underwear, and the dtatlno
Ished with a hem and three tucka. - tlon between amart and commonplace up
-f A pretty way In which to trim under- "rwear Ilea In tha trimming. Ona usee
garments Is to edge the neck, aleevea arta" I"1 anough trimming to give beauty and
V bottom with a double fold, ruffled to the eleganoe, the other .nllea on. trimming
materlaL Thla fold la left open ao that lndtacrlmlnately. i . .. -.
ribbon may be run through the ruffles. ; BoMad Xnaltn yiomnssa. " V
. When the rlbbona ara drawn, a charming "' . Quite a new fad for finishing pettl
etfcot of khlrred bands Is" produced, to- eoata has torn to us from abroad. .This
gather with tha daintiest ' glimpses of B nothing less than making, tha flounces
i. olcr-ahowlna- throua tha sheer white a AattA nuMlin. strlDad. ftwurad aad
raffles. Bows of ribbon nrOut on nrher-
evr one wame tnem. shear aa to texture, - v .
. ' Thla new form of trimming haa much Another fancy for trimming petticoats
.' ta commend- It. . In the flrat place It la hi to have gored flounce mada In pan
' ' cheap. In the second simple and pretty, ), and cut narrower at the top than at
.- and In the third It eaves the wear and the bottom. Thla atyla of flounce Is
tear of laundering, for the rufftoa aannot vary bouffant and fluffy at tha bottom
readily o torn, while laoa and ambroid ni looks quite billowy with its masses
" ery are almply pulled to shreds. : ot rufflea and edges of laca.
-. A Vnelean Kind of Ooraet Oeraair 1 Fig. Q Illustrates such a Poeoat
A,eortet cover trimmed In thla man- It la made of lawn, with .narrow 'bait.
Tier la ahown In fig. O. ' . , -w
- - The. back of the corset cover la mada
. i. .w. .. v... t. A
t
-
. .
'
'
f
'- r
.'
c
T
seven rows of embroidery or lace run be-
tween alternate band of ths materlaL
' The belt Is of embroidery, with a fitted
' skirt piece below it. ' ' K '.
" - The ' corset cover which are mad
- without skirts ars, Z think useless. :
' - A corset cover Is intended to prevent
corsets from becoming soiled from frto-
tlon with dresa helts, aa nearly all col-
ored materlala will rub oft on th bolt
..line. The belt line la. I think, tha plana
; which' most needs protection from eoll
v Ing, and people who do hot want tha ex
, tra thickness of a belt under tha skirt
cannot add very much to their girth by
1 a thin strip of laca or embroidery. -
In Fig. K, however, l ahown a eoreet
-cover without a skirt. It Is ao simple In
construction that a child can make one.
.. A strlo of sheer mnterlal, just large
enough to fit loosely around the body
Z'l, VLtI i ZZZnt t a wide band
drawn,, and the corset cover fits. Across
the shoulders are ribbon straps finished
with bows. : - .''...' i '
Borne of the prettlast handiwork don
upon underwear la to b seen upon fine
chemises. ' These are elaborately- em
broidered In designs of small flowers, or
.s richly trimmed with Inserts of laca.
A simple but smart chemise is shown
in Fig. F. S ' . t . ' N
The. garment fit looaaly, and It
square neck, pointed In front, has points
- oi n. i.iiiu
piece of lsc. ar set in eh ld th
front, and tn. armnoia is sogea wun
IflCC.
Around the bottom
hemmed by hand, and headed by three
- ------- v.'fc
. It will be seen that fine handwork
May a conspicuous part in all fine un
d'rwe.N and w. nr. 7Jurnl-.g. to th.
day When women frised needlework
ln Uut tba aUtchea did -not .now.
V
A.
ii
i
fancy materials, simple of desfgn and
f 'ront. nT,i rawg
te.hlckl - v.
Tha nettiooat Korea terminate Man
above the knee, and here a band or em-
L broidery ladder beading, tnrougn wbicn
n ribbon may barun, la set at tba Bead
of a deep. Shaped flounce. Thla baa
i ternaU Dane la of Plain and tucked Uwn,
; -Tba plain panala ara aarrowad at tba top
'v- .'.' and tha tucked one have tha tucka re
: leased the few Inches from tha upper
afl-e."-Thr Vandyke Points are tnsart-
d In tha- plain panels. . Three rows of
Inserting are eat above a bottom ruffle,
which Is trimmed with laoa and falls
rer a similar ruffle trimmed with nr
f rower laca. -: '''''".'.
Although vary alaborata, thla atyla of
. peuicoai iiounce w
! aa valumlnona around tba bottom
aa to hold out well the moat filmy of
dress matariaia, ' V
- Another stylo of ruffle can ba mad
by using dotted muslin In panels sepeH
a ted oy lace inwnini. uca iianw
should have three tnch-wlde tucka at the
top.- Tha release of theae makea tha bot
tom of tha flounce very full . Wide lac
should trim the edge of auch a flounce,
which la finished with an under-floune
- trimmed wlth narrower lac and made
without tocke. ' ' . A
JOS EPA WILflONT 0BBORN.
It
ifKTx' were talking
.abont th
trlk down at. th lawyers'
dnb laat Tuesday When one of
th company, now. an et-Judgo,
told thla tory: t ' , - - ' "
-It was a strike that decided my dea
tiny., t was A vrdant- pri or ne law
In a county Mat of what w how call the
mlddl west. My ealngla haa ertanaa
in tha winds of dreary winter mntll it
had lost Its shapa, and not,.cltont had
oalled. I foresaw that tna urn waa
near at hand whan I sbouia nave to
bolster my credit with my Undlord ar
leave, -' ' -' .';" ',
."A- atroiiin ''0ncle Tonva Cabin
eampany came tn town In search of food
and rest and persuaded th sheriff to let
them ply In tn court sesw iw w"
nights. In th afternoon before the
rir.t aaef ormanoe the manager af the
company clambered np the rickety stair
way whlcn lea to my
formed' tarn that ana of th. toetaber
r his nomnanr had atruck. '
"M wanted la know If ther Was
any law which would compel th fellow
a at While trying to think of some
statut. that would cover tha case (
aawarf tha manaxer what part the recal
oltrant had played. Ha repltod that
it waa Marks, the lawyer.
"Before, I had collected my thoughts
th . manager added; 'J'. " ' ' "
. "1 don't care at much about forcing
him to do th part. U I oould get any
body to take hi place, for he's th poor
est stick In the company. He couldB it
even play th Pft of on Of the blood
hounds.' ' '" ' '"- ' . ' .
i than Inouired how much Of A part
Marka waa. I had never aeen th. play
but onre. and I eooldn t recall any. ehar
.Ma in tha oast except To pay,
- f reckon thsrt ta nobody in yon
town aald the, manager, who could play
lh. Hart. ' ' - . t- .' :' " '"' '''
, - "t asked blm hox ttuch-hd would i
'- Hit - Strike ;'Le'J to'i-Hjs.-'Fortune'-Vcf
VTTZ " t a woman la married
to a i flnda out that he la '
Of en of t e 1.1 who are easily dia-
."T. , ooaraed; aad who ore quick to
glv Up In t.ia,' face of dlff '-xltlea. ;
Thla is1 U.e type of man 4 if he lh
kertta money, early in Ufa develops a
ponvenleat aL'"nent that . prevents him
from hoalit totatoes. .but prmla him
ta play go4 and who. If ha la poor, is
th perpetufcl victim of cruel Injustice
from hl eirplover, and who haa the'
knack! of always coming home when the'
larder la lowest, and tha children most
raj-yed. with the announcement that ha
haa lost hie Job. .- ,
, The truth la that such men have no
eouraga. and whenever they come ' up ,
saatnat anything that la really hard they '
throw up their hands and quit. g
In her heart every woman baa more
or lass of a contempt, however fond she
may be of him. for the man who haa
not strength anough to atand. alone.' and '
grit enough to bear things without . whin,
'"probably th moat blighting . disap
pointment that ever' cornea to a wife ,1a
when aha dtaoover that aha baa got 40
brae her huaband tip, and that if there
Is any oak tree and' twining, vine lnv
theirs, ah haa got to Jinderetudy; the
oak. ; ' :' " ' :;
The picture l a, grt big. husky man
doing the clinging about a fremitus '
woman 1 not n ehromo that appeala to
tha fmnlnlnalmaj1natlOn.-" . .
' ntin. it Is a fact that s great many
-women encounter to their matrimonial
experience, - There' ara plenty .ox men
who have no more backbone than a fish
ing worm, and -about tha hardest job
that any woman aver tackles la to try
to make a. man out of on of theae
wishy-washy, floppy things. ' ,
But K can be done, and the question
that al Wit who flnda bareelf in such
a position should ask herself is, "What
.n t aaf Haw can I strengthen thla
man ao that ha wlU do hla fart In the
world? How can I prevent nm wwimn
from wracking my Ufa, and ml ohll- 1,
dren'a lives, ss Well as hla owr .
The first thing that auch woman
should do ta to hide her real opinion of
her Husband ao deep down in her-eoul
that ha WlU never dlacovar. it- It la ;
fatal to reproach hlra with hie failures,
ta remind htm Of his mistakes, to point
out to him hla eowardloa, v - -i
Such a man's essential vwoen ;
In lack of self-confidence. Th only way
you can do anything with htm la to build
thla up. and It should be hla wlfe-a dally
and hourly effort to simply saturate him ;
with ber faith in him. ---
.'For a wlf to flatter aatrong huaband
ls doubtful ' policy, v If yon swell hla :
head.- you frequently make blm over- K
bearing and tyrannical, but with a weak
man even -conceit la the lesser evil, and
there can be no question of th wledom -.
of a wife applying flattery with a laviah
hand. -." " ; ' ' ' :- ....
' She ahould make bar husband belleva
that she thlnke him the greatest man In
ths world, and tha otrongeat ; and tha
moat unshakable, and itwouldnt aur- :.
priae bar particle If he moved moun
tains, or set the river on ' v
: Bh ahould alng tha might of hi eour-
age. of bla determination, of his perse-,
verance, in never-ending - paean of
pralaa. . '" ' v j! ' '" 0
. She ahould harp' upon th grim oour
aga with which ha stood hla aos and
did hi oy wh" wT"JTk !!-
th Spartan fortitude wtth-Whwh. h
endured hardship before which thera .
2. man kW that n. d
not possess these qualltlea for which hi
wife lands him. the more sure he I to
affect them, and try to itva npr to what J
he belleva aha thinks he 1. There m no ,
other man who makea auch a showier
bravery aa tha man who auspeet hi
wn ooomg.' " : , . .' . . .' -,;
Nor hould anybody dpt htm for
thla. Many a here would hav ran off ;
the battlefield tf It hadn t that ha
wa ashamed that his comrades ahould
sea that h wan frightened, and U W
eaosa b to ashamed for his wife to eea
that he to a onward that many a man
Uke the brae be noed. to make him .
fight hi batUa of Ufa 'YV'7'i'
' TM woman who Is married U tha
easUy discouraged mart must deny her-,
aeif the pleaaure ot ympathlslng with
him. Bach men have a craving for pity ,
that la Hk n opium fiend' hankering .
for the pip They can dope themselyee -no
to It until they lose eirergy; ambition
and even ehama at being failure. . J
' Hope, praise, courage, encouragement. :
theaa are tha levers with which a 'Wife
may boost her weak huaband up t
ladder, bat gympathy wUl pull him ,
Of oourse It la a tranuoaa undertak
ing to aiur a man character and t ;
graft on to him qualities that he doe
not possess by nature, but 4 wife' Tor.
ton U bound un in her huaband
-What he I socially and financially, sha
la. and If ah sua down quietly and :
aocapu fallura ah la aa Weak and .cow
ardly aa h to. - v. -.' - '
for a good man. H replied that it wa
hla custom tn pay on share after -tha
box office receipts wer counted. W
said that Marks had made $10 tha last ,
nlcht he fclayed. but that ha had taken
out aa mach aaytl.l9 on arreral occa;'
Attr further eoneultntio i -gita
t do the not. In order t worn up a
good houM I did n HtU press agent
stunt on th aide. 'I uggeted that ha
gt out aom handbllM announcing mat.
n young lawyer at the town had volun
teered to play th part of Marks. .
"The aid own house wa crowded,,
Curiosity In tha town waa on tiptoe t
see th lawyer. My make-up would hav
concealed my identity t a masquerade.
had rehearsed my part for two hours'
th first work I had donvby the wy,
eino I openad my.ahop. i . '
"Bat I was not acquainted with the
dog in th company. When I cam on
th dog got loose, and th part h played -in
trying to disarrange my umbrella wa
not in'th play, In fighting him off, X,
part of my disguise was removed and I '
stood before th audience, revealed. .
IwTh bouse howled with delight I'
want on with my part and got all the
applause. Tha audience waited for me.
After tha show wa over -th manager '
banded me tS, the first money I hod
earned In the' town. H offered me a
guarantee of tl for th next night If I
would appear, and promised t tie up the
dog. - . .., " ';",.' ;v ' '
. "But t bad had enough, I returned to
my afflca. Ths next day I dtd some law
business; It kept coming my Vajr, and
Inside of year. I had more than I
oould do. 5 : t-i -' "
"A feW year Later X became prosecut
ing attorney. and then I went; on . the
be nob. I served thro terms, , retired,
nd earn east. In n way, I never hear
of A strike that I do not feel Inclined
to ajmnatUaa with 1C1 ;..-v:
r,