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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 19, 1903)
THE OREGON .DAILY JOURNAL PORTLAND: SATURDAY EVENING. SEPTEMBER' 19, 1003 , A" ' f . A PAGE; TIlsitliaSIS'SfailE le an TO BE WIDELY USED FOR TRIMMED wns OLIE AND ETAMINE in their finer, softer grades can be developed into gowns that are wonderfully serviceable. A costume in one of these materials, for instance, may be designed for both house and street wear, and will still with the addition of some little extra garniture be suitable for informal evening use. Because of their wonderfully adaptable qualities these two fabrics hare taken a very strong hold on feminfna fancy. They have attained to such re markable favor that some modistes predict for them '. a place among the standard materials those which appear season after season and are always in fashion, no matter what novelties may come and go. However, this may be, one thing at least is cer tain. Neither will suffer any diminution of popu larity this coming year at least. This winter, as last, they will to a great extent, usurp the place held in former days by silks and silken fabrics only. Many of the foreign models displayed at the big fall openings show them in white and in the paler colors, worked up into charming dema-toilettes. Both materials lend themselves admirably to the fashions of the present moment. The full, flaring lines in' vogue demand just such light and supple fabrics. "7. Although The tendency'thiryear la soartedTy to ward "1830" styles there is as yet no suggestion of the crinoline of our grandmothers. Skirts are vo luminous, but fall in rather clinging lines nearly to the knees. From there they widen gradually to an. enormous flare at the edge. The whole effect is the graceful one of the inverted bell of a flower. v xuo uiy .tunc is bccu iu luaiijr uiucrcui lurius una year. It figures in the design of nearly all the light er skirts. Sometimes it is formed by rows of shir- V ring, Bometimes the effect is produced by lace or oth- , er garniture. The preferred model, which has the fullness shirred or gathered round the hips, is too trying a Style to be adopted by any but the slender woman. A . graceful pattern that is becoming to the majority has the yoke extending into a panel down with the back and front of the skirt. The fullness is laid in tiny plaits, which start from the edge of the yoke at 'the sides and extend now nearly to the knees. Circular flounces are often applied near the foot Jine to give additional width to the flare. These three points the yoke, the panel and the 'flounce are well worthy of note by the vrpmnn who .has old garments 4o make new. With their aid it is not a difficult matter to give to one's last year skirt the extra length, breadth and sweep essential to present styles. , Sleeves are very, very wide this year extrava? gantly so. The fullness is held in with shirring or then is released and gathers ever increasfog width to the cuff. ' Cuffs themselves tale many more and fanciful forms.. They may vary in size from the narrow - band a few inches wide to a deep close-fitting afjair that reaches from the band nearly to the elbow is, in fact, about half the sleeve. - The chief point of difference between the waists of this year and those of last is the exaggerated "1830" drop which is now given to the shoulders. Any num ber of methods re employed to heighten this effect xoks ana top of sleeve are cut from tne same piece, uu eca.ip.at me snouiuer line. II 0' ; o; d Utamine I o y IV1 ! ' I B Wi MMi urp . rim gr mmmmm i i i va i wi ii ill ii in i m. l I T I Ii 1 IB I jc AT 77"- Folds of goods or bands of trimming placed around the shoulders will also serve to emphasize their health. The colors which Paris has decreed as first favor ites for the year are all shades of brown, blues and purples. First among blues stands the deep yet brilliant "marine," while a certain soft tone of , brown, known as "maron," has received a special stamp of approval. Plain colors in all materials even silks are those used. Or, if there is a figure, it is a most un obtrusive one. To relieve the somewhat monotonous effect of these solid colors quantities of trimmings are employed. ' 0 many and so varied are the garnitures in use this year tha, to enumerate them all would bo a difficult task. We have endless varieties of laces, fringes, braids, buttons, fringe Wiprk, passementeries and pendants. ' Elaborate designs are evolved from combinations, of velvets and braids or braids and laces. Many of the gowns show a touch of the military pipings of red and gilt buttons. nIIERFS a new pencil sharpener out that's A handier, as well as cheaper, than most of those we've known so far. It works with a handle. You turn the sharpener itself, instead of turning the pencil in the sharpener. Price, five cents. A "NOVEL school companion for youngstar's different pencils, holding the , erasers, penknife and other small school paraphernalia has the out ward appearance of a row of books. The volumes, which lean together as if on the library shelf, are of varying sixes, and are' bound in bright colors scarlet, blue, yellow. The names of celebrated masters are emblazoned upon their backs. The books, when opened, reveal the various com partments of an ideal "schoolcompanion." - THE "Gothic" is a new lace pattern whose beauty is rapidly bringing it into vogue here. A most exquisito tablecloth now on exhibition has a wide border of this beautiful work. TEAK is a new material so far as umbrellas sts ' an A anmn nf tViA npasnn'a novelties are of this wood, mounted with sterling silver. Some of the Very Latest Novelties in Our Swell Shops HTHOSE waterproof school-bags which proved so popular with the little boys last season are provided lliig year for the little girls, too. Of course, the kind for girls is made without the shoul der strap. It has neat, strong handles instead. The material comes 4n different sort of plaids. Some .of the bpgs have separate "lunch pockets." - 'TP HE latest in neck furs is a plain and very smart scarf, which in width , and shape sug gests the four-in-hand tie of silk or pique." It is without fastening of any kind. The fur is laidjike an) ordinary' scarf around the neck,' the ends are drawn once through each-other, and, if preferred, secured by a small stickpin or brooch. . . . v A N INDIA rubber fountain brush is . a ; new comer in the line of bathing luxuries. This JAR openers for preserving days come at ten cents apiece. The mechanism is very simple, fnstead.of wringing off the top of the preserve jar with a towel, and perhaps burning one's hands in the process, the matter becomes' a simple one pf fit- turner iu win tuio ui uhuuuk jiuuhco. . . . t ... has a hose attachment by which the wateoa-4he-ting the opener upon the top of the jar and press. faucet is made to play directly upon the brush. The price is $3.50. By turning oh the hot apd cold flow at the same time water of any temperature desired can be usedwith the bruso. " i ,.y imr the. handle.. The little instrument is equally good for elosing the jar.With it either-of-these- " important operations can be performed in a mo .