THE OREGON .DAILY JOURNAL PORTLAND: SATURDAY EVENING. SEPTEMBER' 19, 1003 ,
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A PAGE; TIlsitliaSIS'SfailE
le an
TO BE WIDELY USED FOR
TRIMMED
wns
OLIE AND ETAMINE in their finer, softer
grades can be developed into gowns that are
wonderfully serviceable.
A costume in one of these materials, for
instance, may be designed for both house and street
wear, and will still with the addition of some little
extra garniture be suitable for informal evening
use.
Because of their wonderfully adaptable qualities
these two fabrics hare taken a very strong hold on
feminfna fancy. They have attained to such re
markable favor that some modistes predict for them
'. a place among the standard materials those which
appear season after season and are always in
fashion, no matter what novelties may come and go.
However, this may be, one thing at least is cer
tain. Neither will suffer any diminution of popu
larity this coming year at least. This winter, as
last, they will to a great extent, usurp the place held
in former days by silks and silken fabrics only.
Many of the foreign models displayed at the big
fall openings show them in white and in the paler
colors, worked up into charming dema-toilettes.
Both materials lend themselves admirably to the
fashions of the present moment. The full, flaring
lines in' vogue demand just such light and supple
fabrics.
"7. Although The tendency'thiryear la soartedTy to
ward "1830" styles there is as yet no suggestion of
the crinoline of our grandmothers. Skirts are vo
luminous, but fall in rather clinging lines nearly to
the knees. From there they widen gradually to an.
enormous flare at the edge. The whole effect is the
graceful one of the inverted bell of a flower.
v xuo uiy .tunc is bccu iu luaiijr uiucrcui lurius una
year. It figures in the design of nearly all the light
er skirts. Sometimes it is formed by rows of shir-
V ring, Bometimes the effect is produced by lace or oth-
, er garniture.
The preferred model, which has the fullness
shirred or gathered round the hips, is too trying a
Style to be adopted by any but the slender woman. A
. graceful pattern that is becoming to the majority
has the yoke extending into a panel down with the
back and front of the skirt. The fullness is laid in
tiny plaits, which start from the edge of the yoke at
'the sides and extend now nearly to the knees.
Circular flounces are often applied near the foot
Jine to give additional width to the flare.
These three points the yoke, the panel and the
'flounce are well worthy of note by the vrpmnn who
.has old garments 4o make new. With their aid it is
not a difficult matter to give to one's last year skirt
the extra length, breadth and sweep essential to
present styles. ,
Sleeves are very, very wide this year extrava?
gantly so. The fullness is held in with shirring or
then is released and gathers ever increasfog width
to the cuff. '
Cuffs themselves tale many more and fanciful
forms.. They may vary in size from the narrow
- band a few inches wide to a deep close-fitting afjair
that reaches from the band nearly to the elbow is,
in fact, about half the sleeve. -
The chief point of difference between the waists of
this year and those of last is the exaggerated "1830"
drop which is now given to the shoulders. Any num
ber of methods re employed to heighten this effect
xoks ana top of sleeve are cut from tne same piece,
uu eca.ip.at me snouiuer line.
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Folds of goods or bands of trimming placed
around the shoulders will also serve to emphasize
their health.
The colors which Paris has decreed as first favor
ites for the year are all shades of brown, blues and
purples. First among blues stands the deep yet
brilliant "marine," while a certain soft tone of
, brown, known as "maron," has received a special
stamp of approval.
Plain colors in all materials even silks are
those used. Or, if there is a figure, it is a most un
obtrusive one. To relieve the somewhat monotonous
effect of these solid colors quantities of trimmings
are employed. '
0 many and so varied are the garnitures in use
this year tha, to enumerate them all would bo a
difficult task. We have endless varieties of laces,
fringes, braids, buttons, fringe Wiprk, passementeries
and pendants.
' Elaborate designs are evolved from combinations,
of velvets and braids or braids and laces. Many of
the gowns show a touch of the military pipings of
red and gilt buttons.
nIIERFS a new pencil sharpener out that's
A handier, as well as cheaper, than most of
those we've known so far. It works with a handle.
You turn the sharpener itself, instead of turning
the pencil in the sharpener. Price, five cents.
A "NOVEL school companion for
youngstar's different pencils,
holding the
, erasers, penknife
and other small school paraphernalia has the out
ward appearance of a row of books.
The volumes, which lean together as if on the
library shelf, are of varying sixes, and are' bound in
bright colors scarlet, blue, yellow. The names of
celebrated masters are emblazoned upon their backs.
The books, when opened, reveal the various com
partments of an ideal "schoolcompanion." -
THE "Gothic" is a new lace pattern whose beauty
is rapidly bringing it into vogue here. A most
exquisito tablecloth now on exhibition has a wide
border of this beautiful work.
TEAK is a new material so far as umbrellas sts '
an A anmn nf tViA npasnn'a novelties
are of this wood, mounted with sterling silver.
Some of the Very Latest Novelties in Our Swell Shops
HTHOSE waterproof school-bags which proved so
popular with the little boys last season are
provided lliig year for the little girls, too. Of
course, the kind for girls is made without the shoul
der strap. It has neat, strong handles instead. The
material comes 4n different sort of plaids. Some .of
the bpgs have separate "lunch pockets." -
'TP HE latest in neck furs is a plain and very
smart scarf, which in width , and shape sug
gests the four-in-hand tie of silk or pique." It is
without fastening of any kind. The fur is laidjike
an) ordinary' scarf around the neck,' the ends are
drawn once through each-other, and, if preferred,
secured by a small stickpin or brooch. . . . v
A
N INDIA rubber fountain brush is . a ; new
comer in the line of bathing luxuries. This
JAR openers for preserving days come at ten
cents apiece. The mechanism is very simple,
fnstead.of wringing off the top of the preserve jar
with a towel, and perhaps burning one's hands in
the process, the matter becomes' a simple one pf fit-
turner iu win tuio ui uhuuuk jiuuhco. . . . t ...
has a hose attachment by which the wateoa-4he-ting the opener upon the top of the jar and press.
faucet is made to play directly upon the brush. The
price is $3.50. By turning oh the hot apd cold flow
at the same time water of any temperature desired
can be usedwith the bruso. " i ,.y
imr the. handle.. The little instrument is equally
good for elosing the jar.With it either-of-these- "
important operations can be performed in a mo .