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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 10, 1922)
2 THE SUNDAY OTiEGONIAN, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 10, 1933 WEAR AND TEAR OF LIFE MUST BE CONTINUALLY FOUGHT TO PRESERVE ONE'S GOOD LOOKS, DECLARES BILLIE BURKE .. "It's All Right to Talk of Mental and Spiritual Beauty, but It Needs a Healthful and Wholesome Medium Through Which to Express Itself, Is What Wife of Flo Ziegfeld Has to Say. 11 v-" J? sill t vlim t - . Ill I tl I trv kr v a t i 1 1 Il& vv - f" ill . X ,. , t,- , , ?-su- I, . -r , v fc, vev. ' & f& 'V v-. r It -Mi , f jfetet? A if 'vh jfl! . V-i I BY ANTOINETTE DONNELLY. Thin la the fifth of a series of articles by Miss Donnelly on the 12 most beau tiful women In America. NEW YORK. "It is so unintelli gent for a woman not to lake care of her looks," says Miss Blllie Burke, in private life Mrs. Flo Ziegfeld Jr., "I simply cannot imagine anyone not doing it. It isn't just years you have to fight but the wear and tear of life, and we all have that to combat if we live at all. I think a woman very shortsighted to make no effort to preserve her beauty and to add to it, if possible. You owe that to your husband, your family and your irlends, and if you are in public life your public demands it. "It is all right to talk of mental and spiritual beauty, but it needs a healthful and wholesome medium through which to express itself," she added. This is not just theory with Miss Burke, whose appeal might better be described as that of extreme prettiness rather than of great and striking beauty. "Lovely" perhaps were the better word to fit her many charming assets. She prac tices what she preaches. Some one paid her this appropri ate compliment: "Everything about Miss Billie Burke is so beautifully clean she makes you think how the world must have looked the first early morning after it was made." 'Twas on a sunny day in the fall I visited her at Burkeley Crest, 3-Iastings-on-the-Hudson, an idyllic spot, a picturesque poem in itself. Within easy motoring distance of New York, there she spends most of her time. As you would too, so beautiful a spot it is, from the winding road off tin highway, where overhanging tree branches form an archway to the door of the perfect f,'em of a houBe, neither large nor pretentious, but built after the man ner of an old English home with broad and beautifully kept lawns dotted with great spreading oaks, large flower beds, fine hedges, with reservation made for a fine swim ming pool and tennis court. If I were asked to name my own reward for a life of honest labor I should ask for no more than Burke ley Crest, and feel I were being amply rewarded. Once inside, it is so homey, so cozy, so artistically built and furnished as to leave nothing more to wish for an eniir in itself. "Yes, I love it, the air and the sunshine and the chance to get out doors. I love the feel of earth under me. i ears ago, I remember, when I was playing with John Drew and motoring out here every night after the show, he said, 'Great Je hosophat, vhat do you want to live away out there with the chickens r.ut I guess that is what has kept me so healthy. I love the outdoors. This last summer we were in New Brunswick, miles and miles from any habitation, where we had to cover ten miles on foot at r. time. But it was wonderful. "You know, I think, even with moneyed people who can afford it. there is not nearly enough outdoor life," she continued. "Of course more people are going tn for it every year now. But 'hy anyone wants to live in ttte city when she can live in the country I don't understand. It gives you a wonde ful opportunity to recupera'e from the strain of work, anyway." Miss Burke was an adorable pic ture as she sat in the spacious liv ing -oom. with its soft green tinted walls, taffeta hangings, and light gray velvet rug, dressed in a creamy knitted woollen sports dress with cream angora neck scarf, white sports shoes and white silk stock ings Her hair is just as fine spun gold as ever, her eyes a lovely blue, her eyebrows fair and skin soft, smooth and well nourished, & cameo-like delicacy of feature nad a youthful figure. A brilliant noon day rim poured into the room. A softly radiant glow was thrown upon her by the casement curtains of s-me sheer texture of orange with a layer of pale yellow over it, a charming window treatment to gether with a layer of pale yellow over it," a charming window treat ment together with the green over drapes. Getting on to the subject nearest may note book at the moment. 1 asked Miss Burke for some of her beauty secrets which others of us might profit by. "Mine are no secrets," she said. "I don't think, for instance, after a cer tain age, or long before it, for that matter, you can heve.a good com plexion unle3 you take care of it. I think it needs plenty of creaming and the massage that goes with it. "But I don't think women who have the time during the day to give to this care should put it off until retiring hour. I think that is a mistake that so many married wom en make. I don't believe any man likes to see a woman with her face all greased up and her hair pulled back, as it must be then. "I think it requires about an hour a day for a woman to take the care of herself she should; that is, to do her morning exercises, take her shower, fix her nails, cream her face, and give her scalp a light massage, all of which' are essential to good grooming. "Mr. Ziegfeld I notice so often will speak in terms of praise of a girl or woman thus: 'She is not so pretty, but she is so beautifully groomed.' He lays more stress on that than on beauty of line and feature. But he does dislike makeup. I use it some times, out be will say: 'There, now, you looked nice until you put that rotten stuff on.' "I am a cold shower fan. i Every morning of my life I take an 'icy bath, and then rub until I feel every atom of me glow. I could more easily go without breakfast than without that Bhower." "How about your hair?" I asked. BY ANNIE BLANCHE SHELBY. AS THERE are many players, 1 find, who are of the opinion that dummy, the declarant's partner, has absolutely no rights or privileges, that he must be literally what the term "dummy" would seem to imply; that, having eyes, he must see not, and, having organs of speech, he must nevertheless be dumb, I would herewith state that this is entirely erroneous. While the dummy's rights are, to be sure, restricted, in many respects he is just as much a live wire and quite as necessary to the proper de velopment and outcome of the game as though he occupied the position of the declarer. He cannot, to be sure, make sug gestions either by word, look or gesture as to how any card or cards in his hand may be played, but he has many obligations, the proper fulfillment of which calls for un ceasing care and vigilance. Nothing is in more questionable taste or shows greater ignorance of the laws 1 ATOfagfTir IMi)n or, r.r ,h ih f,iany of the quitted tricks contains the dummy deliberately to leave the tjihle. nfter exnosine- his cards. if his responsibilities at that mo . . " F ment ceased and he had no further interest concerning the game. That this is repeatedly done cannot be gainsaid. There are many players serving as dummy who leave their place at the table in order to watch the play of some other player. This, too, is' a most reprehensible practice and deprives the dummy of the priv ileges and rights to which he is entitled and which he should be con stantly on the alert to exercise. The laws governing the rights of dummy are. specific and direct and should be as faithfully lived up to as all other laws and rules per taining to the game. For the benefit of those to whom they may be unfamiliar I herewith give them: "Law 47, As soon as the initial "Do you shampoo (t yourself? And what nature of shampoo preserves its lovely color?" "My maid usually shampoos it for me, and brushes it every day for more than the proverbial hundred strokes. I have a shampoo that I have been using for years, put up specially by the same man. His secret is locked therein. "But I found out one time, when my hair was coming out, that I could do a lot for it by just keeping the scalp loose, and so I ply my fingers over it quite frequently myself. And realjy I find it an excellent thing for theTiair. "Yes, I brush my eyebrows and lashes daily, too.. My lashes are fair, of course, but I love lashes that curl up, and I know some of the women with this heavenly asset make a daily practice of brushing them up, and it certainly pays. . They are so much more effective that way. "Aw, yes, I have a deep and pene trating sorrow. My freckles. I have tried everything under the sun, but they cling to me faithfully. I know a woman who has recurrent attacks of freckles under the eyes, 'and she goes and has the skin peeled off. That's too heroic for me, though." Not such a great grief, methinks, since they are only on her arms and a natural hfealthy enough answer to her taste for the outdoors. Just at this moment she suggested that we go outside and sit in the sun. There, emerging from a doll house, was her charming 6-year-old Patricia, with hair of molten gold and thick as Angora, Blue eyed, like her pret ty mother, a rich promise of a du plicate Billie Burke some few years hence. "What exercises do you do?" Bald I, pursuing one of my favorite topics. I'll show you. This one la thehours. lead is legally made, declarer's part ner places his cb face upward on the table and becT.nes dummy. De clarea plays dummy's cards as well as his own. Dummy takes no part in the play and has no rights except as provided in laws 48 and 49. Dummy's Bights (Unconditional). "Law 48. Dummy always has the right: "(a) To call attention to the fact that too many or too few cards have been played to a trick. "(b) To call attention to the fact that the wrong side has gathered in a trick. "(c) To ask declarer whether he have any of a suit he has refused. "(d) To correct an error in the score. "(e) To participate in the discus sion of any disputed Question of fact after it has arisen between declarer and an adversary, "(f) To correct an improper claim of either adversary. "(g) To assist declarer as allowed by law 64 (j). Law 64 (j) reads as follows: VWhenever it is suspected that morf than four cards, any player (including dummy) may count them face downward. If any be found to contain a surplus card and any player be short, either opponent may face tha trick, select the sur- plus card an restore it to the player who is short; but this does not change the ownership of the trick. The player who was short is an swerable for revoke as provided in law 56 (e). Dummy's Rights (Conditional). "Law 49. If dummy has not in tentionally looked at a card held by and player, he has the following additional rights: "(h) To claim an adverse revoke. "(i) To call attention to and ad verse lead out of turn. "(j) To call attention to a card exposed by an adversary. "(k) To call declarer's attention to first, of several bending ones I oo. I find these bending exercises are the best for waist and stomach," She showed she could do them all right, like one i& the habit of exer. else. The pet one is standing with the feet apart, arms out wide, straight from the shoulder, then touching the toe of the opposite foot with the right and left alter nately 15 times. Another is straight bending for ward, first with right hand touch ing right toe five times, then left hand touching left toe five times. and then both hands together touch ing both toes. Still another one she recommends for - waist and stomach and upper body muscles is: Stand erect, with hands clasped overhead, and stretch from the waist, raising hands as high as they will go,,giving consid erable pull as the hands go up. Awfully good exercises all of them. In addition Miss Burke tells me she does a swinging exercise which is extremely helpful. She throws heavy towel over the stout curtain rod in the doorway and catches it double, lifts her feet off the ground and swings back' and forth, another excellent waist and stomach muscle, arms and bust muscle hardener. One could do this if not built too dimin utively by simply hanging to the rod with the hands. In summer she swims every day in the convenient pool on her grounds, and the tennis court pro vides her with further opportunity to keep her figure. In both winter and summer she does her bending and swinging exercises, walks a great deal, and playing around the spacious outdoors with Patricia con tributes pleasurable and profitable any right he may have under the laws. - "(1) To suggest playing out the hand when declarer would concede any of the remaining tricks." Now as to cases where dummy transcends his rights and becomes subject to penalties: "Law 50 (m). Should dummy call attention to any matter involving a rignt or declarer or a penalty in curred by the adversaries, said mat ter not being covered by law 48, paragraphs ta) to (g); or should he, after having intentionally looked at a card held by any player, seek to exercise any oj the rights men tioned in law 49, paragraphs' (h) to (1), then such right or penalty is canceled and may not be exercised or exacted. , "(n) Should dummy, by touching a card or otherwise, suggest a play by declarer, either adversary may require declarer to make such play (if legal) or to refrain from mak ing it "(o) Should dummy warn declarer that he is about to lead from the wrong band, either adversary may designate the hand from which de clarer shall lead." As is seen, a fine distinction exists between what constitutes dummy's riehts and what would be a viola tion of his rights. If he transcends his authority and attempts some thing which he has no right to at tempt, it constitutes a flagrant violation and generally works to the detriment of the side. Surely, these many rules, or rather laws, governing the rights of dummy will convince even the most skeptical that the dummy has many obliga- tions resting upon him, and is many cases responsible in no small degree for the proper development of the game. If, therefore, he be not in his proper position at the table in order to fulfill his obliga tions, or, being present he is igno rant regarding them, much censure can often be laid directly to his door. Let no one, therefore run away with the belief that dummy's posi tion is that of a sinecure and that he is entitled to all the rewards and emoluments-which may fall to the side, but is divested entirely of any responsibilities in connection with the position. Aside, however, from the obliga- tions resting upon him. the dummy, who haa not the responsibility c playing a hand, is afforded an ex ceptionally fine opportunity of ob serving the development of the h'and and often of picking up some useful I hint or suggestion which should add I to his strength as a player, and per i haps stand him in good stead at some future time. Another reason why dummy should stick closely to bLs job. One of the most important of dummy's duties (as. also of the ad versaries) - is to ask his partner when first he renounces to a suit if he is without' a card. of the suit. This precaution often saves a re voke, as if it turns out that the renouncing player has a card of the suit led, he substitutes it for the one wrongly played and saves the revoke. If such play be made by one of the adversaries, the card played in error becomes an exposed card, sub ject to the call, of . the declarer. This means that it must be left on the table face upward, and led or played as the declarer may dictate (provided that in so playing the card he, the holder, does not make revoke). Should he, however, aret the opportunity to play the card be fore the declarer calls it, he should undoubtedly do so. No penalty attaches to the de clarer because of an exposed card for the reason that he has no part ner whe may benefit thereby, but twb adversaries to whom the knowl edge that he holds a particular card may prove of benefit. There are some players who assert that if the declarer makes a revoke the dummy is, quite as responsible for the error as the declarer, as if the dummy had called his attention to the fact that he had renounced to a trick the revoke could have been saved. This is a somewhat strong assertion, yet it is not with out foundation. It should certainly tend to emphasise the watchfulness and care which the dummy player should never fall to observe. Revokes are made at times by the best and most conservative of play ers. The declarer, intent upon the play of the two hands, can easily make a revoke by reason of his complete absorption. On the other hand, the dummy, whose mind is free so far as the play of the hands is concerned, should easily be able to note and prevent any irregu. larity of the sort which the de clarer may be on the point of com mitting. While, as stated, much of the responsibility of a revoke may justly be laid to the carelessness of the dummy in failing to" call at tention to the fact that the declarer has renounced, the partner of the adversary who makes a revoke can not be held quite so accountable, a.s he himself is absorbed in the play and development of the hand. In other words, his mind is not as free to observe errors as is that of the dummy. The adversaries, however. as well as the dummy, should form ' the habit of asking their partner when first he renounces to a trick if he is without a card of the suit. The exercise of a little care and watchfulness on the part of all players will often enable to avoid penalties which would score heavily against them. While on the subject of irregu larities, etc., I cannot refrain from touching upon what I consider not only a breach of etiquette, but a most flagrant violation of what is right and proper. This is the habit possessed by many players, as the adversary of the declarant, of them selves playing cards from the dummy hand. They act upon the as sumption, it is supposed, that only a certain card can be played to the current trick, but this in no wise detracts from the flagrrancy of the act. The wise declarer Is he who will not permit any such irregu larity, who will at once assert, cour teously but firmly, that he alone has the right to play the dummy hand, and that he neither desires nor will tolerate any infringement in the matter. If it is not right for the dummy to play a card from his hand unless authorised to do so by the declarer, it is certainly a fla grant breach for the adversary to make any attempt to do so. The following came within my observation a short time ago. It goes to show the unreasonableness of some players and the tendency whenever possible to shift the blame of some irregularity on their own part to their oftentimes innocent and 'unoffending partner. In this case the game was well along, when the declarer led an unopened suit, to which one of the adversaries re nounced. Declarer again lefl the suit and the player again renounced. Upon the third round of the suit the renouncing player suddenly dis covered that he had cards ef the insisted upon substituting theni for the cards he had wrongly played. It was too late, however. The tricks had been turned and quitted and the revokes had become established. For the first revoke the declarer had the option of taking two tricks from the adversaries and adding to his own, or of adding 50 to his honor score. The penalty for the second revoke was BO points in his honor score. For the first revoke he took the two tricks, and, needless to say, came off with flying colors. The revoking player instead of quietly accepting, the situation got into a heated argument with his partner, asserting that if he had done his duty and called attention to the fact of his renouncing when first he renounced to the trick the error would have been corrected and not even one revoke, let alone two. would have occurred. So insistent did he become in his contention that it wag only when the two other players took sides with the partner that he finally quieted down and the game was allowed to proceed. The partner undoubtedly was to blame, in that he did not ask the renouncing player if he-had cards of, the suit led. The fact, however, that there is no penalty attaching to a player for his failure to observe this form shows that the offense is not a serious pne. -The penalty at taching to a revoke is, however, definite and succinct The laws governing auctidfc are made for the convenience and pro tection of all players who desire to play the game at its best. Their strict observance often precludes disputes and prevents one side se curing an undue advantage over the other by unfair or unjust methods. The laws of the game are, in fact, the life of the game, and without them there could be no game. Why players should protest against the payment of penalties to which they have laid themselves liable when they would unquestioningly comply with prescribed requirements in ten nis, golf or other games is beyond comprehension. Every infringement of a law which results in the payment of a penalty has an undoubted salutary effect and generally prevents a recurrence of the offense. On the other hand. if errors are, committed for which no penalty is exacted, a player i liable to go on foreve committing the same old offense. Therefore, not only for our own benefit-because we thereby become stronger, better and more careful players -but for the good of the game itself, we should be punctilious in the matter of detail and consistent and strict In matters of form. If a player bid, double, lead or play out of turn, make a revoke, expose a card or commit any, of the many irregularities to which play ers are liable, let us not only exact, but, in our turn, cheerfully concede the penalty attached. To da so will in the end work immeasurably to our benefit - PHYSICIAN DENIES TRUTH OF THEORY THAT COSMETICS INJURE COMPLEXIONS Skin Specialist Announces That Effect Is Rather Beneficial Than Otherwise, Since Milady's Feeling That She Looks Well Stimulates Health by Auto-Suggestion. ZA iA, 3 -7? W"' . is tin SV--'- ; few iv; - Is ji y a v n: r-vv-sf M n l - i-- ' oi 1 - HJl ! H! -The doctors are putting their grouches in camphor and are suddenly good to suffering hu manity. An" epidemic of kindness has hit them. Maybe it's only a dream. Only a week ago a Philadelphia doctor made himself eligible for the presidency of the Hoboes' league, which has just ousted its present millionaire leader, by declaring that , the'rKo J?"8!'""0' that is, one bath a year, is all that is neces sary, is the right and proper one and too much bathing will soak us Into incompetence. Now along comes Dr. Charles F. Pabst, a well-known specialist in skin diseases of Brooklyn, N. Y., who declares that cosmetics are not harmful at al? and can be used, if simple hygleni. rules are followed. So rouge, lip sUcks, eyebrow pen cils, curlicues, pomades, creams, lo tions, poudres de riz and all the various essences des fleurs in the way of fancy perfumes are now restored to good citizenship on mi lady's toilet table and may be ad mitted publicly on her complexion. There is hosannah all along New York's great white way, where the chorus girls' union is probably de bating the question of making Dr. Pabst an honorary first vice-presi dent. There is comfort, too, for every girl in the land, for while the dear creatures have been ready to relinquish everything else in the desire to become a modern woman, they held on to their powder puffs with a drowning grasp. Flappers Gain Point. Flappers who dared to admit the whole truth and came out into the public light of day with chalky faces and unadorned lips may now renew their tools oi oeauty ana again adorn themselves like a pic ture no artist can paint. For not only does the doctor declare that cosmetics are quite harmless to the skin, in fact he says they are even beneficial, as consciousness of look ing well, by auto-suggestion, makes one feel well and thus rouge and powder have an Important tonic ef fect on many women. Unlike most Cases, for -instance, where stomach specialists generally happen to be chronic dyspeptics, hair restorer artists, bald-headed and faith healers, green-livered pessimists, Dr. Pabst himself has an astonishingly healthy and radi ant skin. At first glance he seems to be a young man in his twenties and It is only when he begins to speak that it is possible to realize that one is facing a man ofmature years. Already occupying a high place In his profession, being very generally recognized as one of the principal j authorities in this country on dis eases of tne skin, Dr. Pabst won special honor during the war. He was in charge of the division of skin diseases in one of the biggest base navy hospitals in the country and his work in relieving the skin diseases of our sailor boys won spe cial commendation. Convention Is Addressed. Dr. Pabst made his stirring ad dress at a convention just held at Atlantic Gity. In the course of an interview he afterward amplified his statements to assure people that he meant just what he said, for there were those who were so sur prised to hear that a medical author ity had given cosmetics a clean bill of health that they declared he must have been misquoted. "I have often been asked," he de clared, "whether the use of cos metics is harmful to the skin. I', is a question that always occurs to a woman using them when making her toilette and it has been a buga boo that has frightened them, for those who, for so-called moral rea sons, have taken a stand against the use of cosmetics have hoped to discourage her by declaring that -it is detrimental to the skin. . "From extensive observation and experience in the treatment of skin diseases covering thousands of cases, I can say that powders and rouge are not harmful, if free from excess irritants, and I can add after careful analyses that there are few powders and rouge preparations that are made up with an excess of irritants, even the cheapest va rieties. Another thing, curiously enough, women almost invariably discover the powder that "is theirs," or in other words, the one that seems to suit them best. It seems to be a case of material selection. "The majority of powders and rouge preparations will do no harm to the skin under any condition, na tural selection or not particularly if proper care and hygiene of the skin is observed. This might well be called a beauty secret, for as it happens, unfortunately, it is the simplest and easiest rules that seem to be the hardest to learn to follow. Face Bathing Important. "This beauty secret is nothing more than a simple wash before re tiring. The face should be carefully bathed with warm water; the soap should be mild and unmedicated, for what is a medicament at one time may hurt the skin at another. Very gently the soap should be worked up in a lather. In this manner the skin is quite cleansed of grease, dust and perspiration, while the cosmetics are removed as well before they can become rancid or clog the pores. "I have just returned from a visit to hospitals throughout the country, particularly in the small towns of the middle and far west I met with some unexpected sur- STOMACH BID Instantly! End Indigestion, Gas, Sourness, Heartburn 'Correct your digestion at once! The moment "Pape's Diapepsin" reaches the stomach you never feel any more misery from indigestion, sourness1, flatulence, gases, heart - , prises. -Like most other city doc tors, I had believed more or less in the rosy cheeked country maid, but I lound that fine comDlexions j were much less frequently met with in the country than in the big cities; this, in spite of the fact that country girls don't use powder and paint to make up for their chores as city girls do for their day's work in the office. Finally the conclusion has been forced upon me that the use of cosmetics has had no bad effect on the complexions of the city girls, Skin of Face Touch. "The toughness of the skin of the face is one of the remarkable things about our anatomy. Soft to the touch as it is and smooth in ap pearance, it is one of the firmest and most resistant of human tissues. When smooth and free from cuts it is generally fully able to protect it self from outside affections. It is the internal enemy that causes the slin most trouble. "Very few of the skin diseases met with by the specialists in their prac tice are due to cosmetics or any other external irritants. They are generally caused by internal con ditions which have affected the glands of the skin; thus, to effect a cure, internal conditions as well as the skin must be attended to. ' "Often germs or parasites are the cause of. the skin trouble. These cannot be reached by any efforts most of the people are capable of. When in spite of good care and at tention on the part of a person, a? skin trouble persists, an expert should be consulted, and it should not be blamed on cosmetics. "Incidentally the use of x-ray and radium on the skin has been over done. The majority of skin dis eases from which women suffer can be cured without them, and our knowledge of the curative proper ties of these ultra-modern medical methods is as yet not complete enough to warrant the use of these powerful agents in most cases. "As to cosmetics I suggest that when a certain powuer or rouge or other facial preparation has been found by milady as satisfactory its use should be continued. She should be as faithful that way, if she de sires skin health, as. in any other of her health habits. Different prepara tions act differently on different . skins. What is mild and unirritat- ing on one skin may be too strong for another. It's just the same way ! with drugs, food and most every What is one woman's thing else. food is another's poison. I have often wondered if there are not other reasons for decrying the use of cosmetics than from a health standpoint. In case this is true I have nothing to say. I can un qualifiedly assert after the mos' painstaking study that the harm from cosmetics is not yet proved by" medical experience. burn or acid stomach. Don't suffer! Correct your stom ach for a few cents. All vruggists recommend these pleasant, harmless ftomach, tablets. Adv. -CHEW 11 FEW! V.