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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 10, 1922)
Women, Churches, Books, Schools and Features SECTION FIVE " VOL. XLI ;: PORTLAND, OREGON, SUNDAY MORNING. DECEMBER 10, 1922 NO. 50 SOCIETY EXHIBITS BRILLIANT FASHIONS AT THE HORSE SHOW ' ' ' ' ' ..... ....... i , . . ...... . Stunning Topcoats and Fur-Collared Coats Worn in Afternoon Red Velvet Wraps Give Color to Evening Sessions Many Smartly Correct Riding Suits in Evidence Metallic Brightness in Fall Costume THIS year the horse show was more than ever a fashionable . affair. It took place, not in the vast and echoing space 6f Madi son Square Garden, but in the Squadror. A armory, and the decora tions were so handsome and so elabo-ate that one of the news paipeis said, the second day of the show that "no foreign affair had more elaborate decoration" which maktt one think" that across the water decoration of the sort must be wonderful and costly indeed. Society was out in force and seemed to take more interest in the horss show,vwhtch has been rather of a bore to the smart set the past few years because the event had be gun to be exploited so by the "trade." Clothes were -assuming far too much significance as a feature of the show, and with department store buyers from all over these United States, and every tailor and dressmaker of the metropolis crowd ing the promenade and trying- to make capital and advertising oppor tunity out of tbo so-called social event, society turned its august nose up a little. It attended the show, but from the boxes looked across the promenade crowd at the tan bark, and held itself with re serve under the staring eye of the prolecarist promenading below. But this year the horse show was more what it was originally intended to be a sporting event patronized by the fashionables, and there was more visiting about in the boxes . more of social relaxation. Ahd more brilliant costuming of the occupants of the boxes. Furs always play an important part at the horse show and the week of the show, no matter what the weather outdoors, begins the fur coat ceason. In the afternoon furs are tearable, for there is attempt to keep the temperature down to a comfortable degree for horses and riders; but of course by evening it grows warmer and fur coats are unendurable. Women carry their fur scarfs over their arms, and in the boxes wraps are thrown over chair backs and one even sees fans in mction. The poor horses, coming from their low-temperatured stalls, must be extremely uncomfortable, and with the heat, the noise, the glare of lights and blare of the band one scarcely wonders that they are fidgety and fractious. The general effect of afternoon raiment was dark and rich. There were many tailored suits of velours and velvet, most of them trimmed ' with fur Jenny's new model with the c ircular skirt was in evidence, and one Jenny suit showed notonly a circular skirt but a circular drape of jacket and circular cuff-flounces edglrg the sleeves. This suit was of blnck velvet with moleskin cuffs and choker collar, and moleskin was appliaued to the jacket in a straight band below the metal belt and in scallcps above the belt. Most of the velvet tailleurs were black with trimming of black fox or g'ay squ'rrel or moleskin. A few dark blue and dark brown velvet suits were noted, but black velvet was far and away the favorite. Here and there was a cloth suit in lighter shade even henna being repre sentedand several brown and t.n suits were in evidence. But n the browns, dresses rather than tailored suits were favored and many women wore tailored frocks set off by 'a fur cravat or stole, the top coat being checked in the coat room. A ?reat deal of what the French call tinsel was to be seen gold and silver brocades, metal thread em broider! 2s and tassels, metal clasps and girdles, but these touches were added to dark suits to give a note tf brightness and richness. Many a thrown-back jacket of dark vel vet and fur revealed a gorgeously bright blouse of metallic brocade, the Dlouse attached to the suit skirt in the three-piece costume effect so popu.ar this season. At the horse show one treads a smooth promenade of boards and one usually arrives and departs in a limousine or a taxi, so even with the heavy fur coat dainty little in door slippers are worn. It was evi dent from footwear at the show, that the strap style is on the wane and the colonial or tongue slipper is the w-.nter choice. And heels are higher and more Frenchified. Com fortable as the low-heeled slipper has been it simply cannot be worn with a long, draped costume unless one wants to look like a frump. . With sport clothes, however (and there were many smart sport cos tumes at the horse show), the low heeled, rather mannish oxford was worn. With the evening costumes satin, velvet, sliver or patent leather slippers. Yojng women interested 'n the sporting feature of the show that is in the equine events wore their riding clothes, whether or not they took actual part in the programme. All the good looking riding suits seen on the promenade and In the boxes had coats and breeches a riding skirt looks almost absurd these days and one wonders why women are ever silly enough to sit crouched sideways on a horse with folds of skirt wound about the knees. A gray whipcord riding suit was 8pec&lly attractive, the coat and breeches beautifully cut and the dark gray suit accompanied by shin ing black boots, a black tricorne hat, gray gloves and white ascot tie. Another smart suit was of brown whipcord, with polished tan boots, brown gloves, cream-colored tie and a blocked beaver hat in brown. Tha red velvet wraps in the vesti bule as the occupants of the boxes thronged out suggested a meeting of high church dignitaries. Never were so many cardinal velvet cloaks at any Ifcy occasion before! These gorgeous velvet wraps are in all shades of red and are superbly trimmed with fur. Some of them P lift J f J II 'tt S " ' ft I t s, . fo. - r- .Vn; steles gj c t . . , i zwr- : -SOvJ . i 1 1 J6a Ttflrrcy rc? Wos-e Corfj- . : : L - -f. ML f , ' f& r.';.' have gold lace and sold tassels . in addition to the fur, and the bigr fur collars are faced with accordeon plaited velvet in soft, rich effect. There were numerous fur wraps too, magnificent wraps of sable, seal skin and moleskin. Wraps are more important at the horse show than frocks in the evening for most women keep the -wrap on or half over the shoulders when sitting: in a box. At afternoon sessions of the horse show smart little suits of velvet prevailed this year and most ' of these suits were garnished with fur. A fetching model indeed ts this (3168) little Jenny tailleur of black velvet with moleskin in deep scal lops above the low belt and in a straight band below it, the belt be ing of metal links. Jenny's strong pencr ant for circular effects is shown here. The skirt has a circu lar cut and so have the fur cuffs edging the loose sleeves. You might mistake any fashion able evening affair this winter for a gathering of high ecclesiastic dignitaries, so many cardinal cloaks there are. Red evening wraps are a feature of the winter and many appeared at the horse show. The one pictured (3160) is of gorgeous red velvet with black fox at the collar and on the long panels that sweep from the wrap to the floor. The lur collar is lined with accor deon pleated velvet a soft and graceful idea. The wrap accom panies a rather simole black velvet frock suitable for afternoon or eve ning. If you have a keen interest in the horses and their doings in the ring you go to the horse show in glori fied sort of sport clothes In the afternoon, or even in the evening if you like, for you spend most of your time on the promenade close to the tanbark. only stopping for casual chats with friends in the boxes. This (2402; smart topcoat is typical of several that appeared at the show. It is of tan wool velour lined with copper - colored velour and ib trimmed with badger the new sport pelt. The big buttons are of coppei composition. One does not wear an evening gown at the horse show for the sake of the horse show not obvi ously. The idea is" that one is on the way to some more formal affair like a dance or a supper party and is just stopping In at the show en rout But very wonderful evening gowns appeared in the boxes this year and the gown pictured (2632) in its restraint of line combined with exceeding gorgeousness of fab ric is typical of winter modes. The material is rose and silver brocade, the decolletage rather high, but the arms bare. Panels give lencth to the draped-up skirt, and at the I It E A ill - i nv i - Jg "wBla I Tt T t ' v ' K I i It ' 3168 rtjozcr' jVonrr rSto girdle is a glitter of Rhinestones and .-rrstal beads. - - Magnificent wraps appear at eve - ning sessions of the horse show, Thev are thrown over hair- hacks, ' behind evening gowns, in the boxes, ; so? eosterr Jr and are always flung about tne shnu .iersJf their nossessors sten on 'the promenade,. Superb, in color 2Z&zr - Jr&rtrzW? (oust this (2398) wrap in two shades of erera.num red velvet, with a auilted satin lining in a third lighter ehade. Plying squirrel ' makes the collar, fruit. Pears, bananas and grapes and , like so' many smart wraps, now, kept, not in the ice box, but in a thjs "one has a . padded roll at its steam-heated dining room, are use hem. less in a few hours; and many . . - '" - - -:'.. ' - ' women, after discouraging trials The holiday season usually brings with real fruit decoration, have home ' to. , the housekeeper the fact turned with relief to the good-look-that 'her ".linen . supply simply must ing artificial fruit that deceives no be replenished. pTahlecloths, nap- body and stands for what it is a kins, towels tand' bed linens that colorful and smart decoration. by MadamRicKer Dear Madam Rlchet Will you please make a stunning- frock and also very US" ? kin ln line for on& of yur figure, some other,, liHe , material for me? I would like this dress to be very becom- A coat such as yours naturally inr. but plain without extreme style. I suggests the redingote type, and as like the styles of last winter so much f(, cn,.nrA - .... better than this season. I am 5 feet 4 tt,ey Were favored last winter you inches tall, 40 bust, 31 waist and 40 hip. will perhaps enjoy the style very I am a kind of in-between' type. light much." In the event that you do, I chestnut hair, fair' complexion with tots . , , , , . , ' of color and b'.ue eyes. I am leaving would advise the second named for color of material for you to' decide. the green tricotine, so there shall I have- ajtoBt . of wool velour in P ekln not fce t d k, t f , & blue color which I would like made Into a dress.. It is duite . an ordinary type of if you do not object to the same coat, belted airway round, but the back combiantioh for two dresses, then has a yoke undert the large collar and Ann ,j . ..., , from the yoke the back width is full tne dr0P could be used for both, and gathered with shirring at waist- making it separate. line under the-belt . It would be very In the modei shown on p&ge 20 pretty combined with some other ma- , " terial, but there won't be much needed No. 1314, I would advise your having as there is plenty in the coat I think' the collar and tuxedo sides, which in Will you .suggest a way to make over ,f th , rtf,.j this coat Into a dress which, because 'trutn s the continued collar line, of of its light color win be more appro- the black satin, the portion edging priate in the spring than just .now? the side and back neck run in sev- I forgot to say about the first dress mentioned that I would like it of a color eral rows Pekin blue chenille. Ee I could wear with a black three-fourths move the shirring at the back of ITLZlltZ coat and let it with the deep yoke Is a very poor likeness but good of my form a plain back. For the vest I figure. You -may destroy it when you would have one ecru fillet. This type are through with it. - I am thanking you ,,. ,. v,i j , in advance. V MRS. A. READER. w,u prov becoming and service . " . , able. . ' KS. .A.; itHiAiJll,rt JL not only enjoyed the -snap" from which to better plan your cress due also the lovely background of flow- What wonderful foxglove you have. And now for the dresses of lt seems so hard to get anything to new and made-over. You have broad look well on me. 1 also have a black Hne! on therefore the dres! which Mr8e skirt. It Is a two-piece skirt, lines and tnereiore tne aress wnicn opnlnB ,n front wlth a p,eat down th(J can cut those lines is the model you center front. It is tbo short and I would should wear. In the Pictorial Review llke to know how to lengthen lt. . , , - ... I have large hips and broad shoul- w'nter's quarterly you will find on ders and eisht i65 pounds. My age page 2D a oharming type, numbered is 35. Thanking you very -sincerely. 1296. The long and plain line of M. panel whereunder peeps the drop M. L., Beaverton, Or. Tou do not skirt, the pointed vest and the slits mention the specific amount of ma in blouse will all become you and terial you have in that piece . "narrow" you in' most amazing serge and as different styles re fashion. For the material, would you quire different amounts of fabric not fancy the fir green tricotine I shall give you two and let you with the satin underdrop. I iever judge accordingly. In the Butterick approve of the satin for stout fig- winter quarterly you. will find both ured when the entire sui race is ex- models, one on page 62, No. 8905; posed, but when used as a drop it is the other on page 63, No. 3953. Both perfectly v permissible. Wear the are very good in line for the stout skirt about an inch or two longer figure and also you will notice the than the one shown in your picture, absence of handwork, for in an In Should you . not fancy the combi- expensive piece of material I always nation of fabrics, but rather desire discourage the time given in adding the one material throughout, then hand work. The pockets in the first turn to page 13, No. 1356, same issue, model have a bit, but it will be bet A vest of the ecru lace " with the ter off than on with your hip line. green tricotine and ttre black rope silk hand "work, following the at- tractive pattern used there, will the family have been getting along with somehow, show horrifying rents and rips, worn places and ragged places when the table is set for a large party of guests, and the guest room must be ready. There is no housewife who is not pleased to receive beautiful linens at Christmas and now is the time to make selection when so many beautiful patterns and so many good bargains are offered in the shops. Many housewives whose husbands, pay department store bills every month, make a practice of keeping . up the household linen supply by adding a few pieces each month, and not leaving the matter until a big bill for linens will have to be added to current expenses for clothes and shoes for the family to stagger a long-suffering payer of bills. A few sheets are purchased one month, a dozen table napkins another month, more sheets later on and half a dozen towels now and then. In this way the linden supply is kept up without great expenditure at one time. But Christmas is the season for special linen gifts. The half dozen fine damask towels every house keeper likes to have for her guest room, the pair of embroidered lin en sheets with pillow-cases to match, the set of table-runner and doilies in the new style or a charm ing breakfast set or a smart bridge set of cream linen doilies and tea napkins with bright-colored cross stitch embroidery. Or even half ' a dozen ordinary sheets of fine muslin to have on hand in case of unexpected guests or illness in the family. , Even the women who asserted they would never have abomina ble imitations of fruit in their dining room are yielding to the temptation' of the marvelously life like bananas, apples, grapes and or anges offered by the shops. This artificial fruit is so natural that your eye is completely deceived and you must actually touch the fruit to convince yourself it is not a real product of tree or vine. The real bananas are especially luscious look ing and make a beautiful note in a dining room color scheme. There is no doubt about it, arti ficial fruit is very smart. Whatever your personal taste may be about imitations and otherwise, artificial fruit is now being used in the very , best families and these rich-hued apples, grapesand bananas repose in chaste bowls on the most costly mahogany sideboards. A bowl of fruit makes a very convenient cen ilii4iiiTation for the dining table between meals and looks extremely smart, the low bowl set on a table : runner of ecru marcime or linen. Of course the fruit must be dusted every morning like everything else in the room, but aside from collect ing dust it will come to no harm and. will do duty for weeks and months, so, though it costs more than real fruit, it is a good deal more econom ical in the end. Keeping up with this fashion of fruit as dining room decoration is pretty expensive if you buy real . BEAVER is -Dear Madam Rlchet. t h pensive piece of serge, enough for a dreas, aHa would like to have you plan it far Have the vest in model 1 of bro- caded crepe, which can always be (Concluded oa Page 5.) 771