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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 21, 1919)
TIIE SUNDAY OltEGONIAX. PORTXAXD. SEPTE3IBEII 21, 1919, 7 LITTLE TROTTER FROCK OF LIGHT WOOL FABRIC IS USEFUL ALL THROUGH AUTUMN Under a Top Coat, it Will Do in the Winter Months, Too Graceful Lines and Dainty Embroidery Make Costume More Engaging Than Ever. jr- -w. s A I ' s' VajdL v. ?'. .;: ; :, 'U -k . t t . V 1 5. --7 : f ' ! - ' i i .', I V- V . t ' , t - h - - - ' ' ; ' , I . - ' .3vV f : : t , . : , .. ' ' S " rr - . V j& V TOTHDfQ in th way of clothes is l more useful than the little trot- I ter frock of light wool fabrio which one buys about this season, for wear all through the autumn weeks with a smart hat and a bit of fur around the throat; and then through the winter months under a topcoat. Every woman is interested in the trot ter dresses for fall, and as the new fashions appear this year, these little frocks seem more engaging- than ever, with their graceful lines and dainty embroideries. Some of the . embroideries are done with yarn, some with silk floss, some with yarn and floss combined, and some with fine braid. And it is hard to say which effect is the prettiest. There is one curious thing- about these em broidered decorationes; in almost all instances the embroidered pattern is massed in one place on the tunic Sleeves and bodice are undecorated, and skirts are quite plain unless rows of buttons are added to break a too severe line. Never were more buttons used on frocks! They run up the sleeves and down the bodice fronts or backs g.nd sometimes there are rows of buttons at either side of the ekirt in front and other rows at the back. Buttons on skirts always run vertically. A smart little trotter frock of taupe wool lersey has panels at each side of the skirt extending' from hip to hem; the top of the panel bulging out to form a pocket, and to give the dis tended silhouette at the hip. Ball but tons oo-vered with the material run down each edge of each panel and emphasize the long line. The tops of the panels are embroidered with self toned soutache in a close design that extends downward in a deep point on the paneL Another of these V-ehaped soutache motifs decorates the front of the bodice and V-shaped embroidered motifs run up the sleeve to the elbow. Around the waist is a narrow sash with long tasseled ends knotted at one hip. The straiglit, chemise blouse, falling tn easy, graceful lines from shoulder to hip over a narrow, straight skirt. Is noted In frock after frock among the fall models. These chemise blouses are so becoming and so easy to wear that it was a foregone conclusion they would appear m trotter frocks for autumn. Any woman of average proportions can be easily fitted in such a model; the difference, of a size of two makes littlf difference. Tou may be a size 38, but a stase 40 in a chemise model will look very well on you, and there is wider range of choice when one is shopping lor a ready-made frock, than U one size were demanded. A very charming costume of this kind is of navy blue tricotine with s straight, narrow skirt and a chemise blouse to the hip, the blouse held in against the figure by a low-placed sash of black satin. The neck is cut out in a shallow round and the sleeves are flaring, in the three-quarter length. There are six rows of black soutache around the edge of the blouse, at the hip; four rows around the edge of the sleeve, and six rows straight around the blouse just above the sash line. A running scroll border of the soutache about two inches wide, la placed just above the rows of soutache in each case. Though some of the new trotter dresses have the flaring bell sleeve and though a few very Parisian models have short sleeves chopped off above the elbow, the majority of the fall trotter frocks have long, very tight sleeves so tight that one must un fasten the seam at the wrist to get into the bodice, and fasten it again when the sleeve is on. Sometimes this fas tening is emphasized by a row of but tons; sometimes it is quite invisible. the closing being made with hidden snaps. One exceedingly smart trotter frock of navy tricotine has a fold of bright red silk at the edge of the long, tight aloowsi and, ithift tiinphlng o -oolcu; 4a Sterna?- tfr.a - jT r 1 4 ??' - ' ? Y- tit? i f Ssfet V&v- I i .1 ' 4;. - i - 4, -, r ' . i - it a 4 ' -Ox kl ' iv ; ' "-' - r V - ' t ' V'l 1 ' 1 '' " I ' ' " i ' ' - - . . : a- -' ' '-;:' , ' . j . r repeated in the bodice where a strtp of the red silk, with tiny nickel but tons down its center, is set under a long slash from neck to bust. Sleeves- are perfectly smooth and tight, clear to the armhole. Comfort to the arm is iven by a clever shaping of sleeve and armhole, never by gathers, and the smoother a sleeve sets the smarter is the whole frock. Most of these trotter dresses have the sleeves set into a lightweight lining, the front and back sections of the bo dice -being laid in .graceful, "eased." ef fect over this lining and the bound or piped armholes coming well over the seam where the sleeve is Joined to the lining. Many bodices fasten at the front this season and sometimes this front fastening is emphasized by a row of buttons and buttonholes. Indeed many of the new frocks suggest those tight-fitting, button - down - the - front basques worn back in the eighties of the last century. No modern bodice, however, has darts taken up beneath the bust. If there are any darts, they rem, from the shoulder down. the Was ' 1 iking afier every wearing saves Silk. Undertimes r? only your sfTIc undergarmcrits would not go so fasti It is perspiration that makes your things wear out so, and dis colors them so horribly perspira tion that is allowed to dry on the fibre and weaken it. But dip your garments into deli cateLux suds every time you wear them, and they will keep whole and new through dozens of wear ings! For Lux cleanses wonder fully, without rubbing and it will not injure anything that pure water alone will not injure. Don't have even one more sSk. garment ruined by perspiration. Order Lux today from your grocer, druggist, or department store. Lever Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass. How to wash silk under things Whisk a titles poori fij of Lux into a thick bt&er in half a bowlful of boiling or very hot water. Add cold water till lukewarm. Dip your things through the foamy lather many time squeeze the euds through them Jo mot rwk. Rinse in three waters the same tempera ture as the water in which you washed them. Squeeze the water out do not wring. Dry in the shade. When nearly dry, press with a warm iron never a hot one. Glove silk should be gently shaped as you iron. TrlERE IS NOTHING LIKE LUX FOR DELICATE FABRICS ! bust, and the line over the boat is kept as flat as possible. A French frock for street wear has this buttoned-in-f ront basque in most decided suggestion. There is a tight appearing bodice with tight sleeves and a high stock collar. Two rows of small covered buttons run down the front from the top of the collar to the waist line and continue three inches below the waistline on a pointed peplum. At the back this peplum slopes down to make an old-fashioned square postilion on which are more buttons. Two rows of buttons run up the sleeve from wrist to elbow but at the front of the arm, not the back as is usual. The exceedingly trim, neat waistline is set off by a very narrow belt of patent leather. The smartest waistline finish for your tailored frock is a very, very nar row belt of shiny leather. Or you may have a very narrow sash of the frock material, knotted at one side. Or you may prefer a cord girdle, using two lengthsof rather heavy silk cable cord with a knot and single eash end dec orated with a big tassel. A frock of navy blue tricotine has a girdle of this sort and the-.-e is another interesting thing about .he frock; Its long tunic overskirt wi'.h gored seams at each side. It has been a long time since gores appeared 'n women's over skirts or skirts eith ir. for that mat ter. The sloping seams of the tun la give it a graceful flare over a straight. narrow skirt. This frock has silk floss embroidery on the .tunic, between waist and hip. Elsewhere the frock is but ton-trimmed, four rows of buttons up the skirt, a row up each sleeve and a row down the center front of the bodice. If you do not cars for a very narrow belt or eash you may have a wide girdle of draped satin defining a low waistline. Some of these girdles are set quite at the hip and the bodice does not blouse above the sash, but falls flat and straight from shoulder to sash, a style for slender figures of course. And be sure your new trotter frock comes to the ankle; any other length is mmodiih. An instance of the writable craze for embroidery on wool material is this trotter frock (3287) of navy blue serge with white dots embroidered by hand all over the bodice and part way down the hip. A few more dots have been added for good measure on the sleeves, and borders embroidered in white and blue add their decorative effect. Like most of the fall trotter frocks in tailor style, this one has a collar around the neck. The collar less neck is almost en tirely out of fashion. Either pockets, plaits or drapery one must have now over the hips for no skirt that hangs straight and plain to the ankle is modish any more. This trotter frock (3849) for autumn is of fine navy blue serge and its perfect simplicity could hardly be surpassed. It shapes In a bit to reveal the curves of the figure, and the shoulder and arm are closely outlined. A braid, and silk embroidery, arranged In a deep oval over bodice and upper ekirt. givea attractive color and variety to the plain little rrocje. Woman has beoom wedded to wool jersey which gives such slender, grace ful Imes to the figure and wool jersey trotter rrocks are appearing in num bers zor autumn wear. Mere Is one (4025) In the new smoke gray shade which is particularly fashionable. Part of the bodice and all of the sleeve are embroidered with two shades of array silk floes in a bold conventional de sign and the embroidered fronts en close a straight, narrow vest of th wool Jersey. A small collar, of course, has this new rrocR tor Ian. Olives are the longest lived fruit trees, some in syria naving Dome aoun dant crops for more than four cen tuziea. Hot Frankfurters Are Suita able for Autumn Picnics. Welrfc Rabbits May Be Takes Along and Heated Over Outdoor Fire. TJERE is no time for automobile pic nics like autumn time. June is the ideal season for ordinary picnics where one sits on the grass under whispering trees, but autumn for the automobile picnic autumn with invigorating air, gorgeous coloring and wonderful sun sets! If It is chilly one sits on the car to eat luncheon and hot coffee comes out of a trusty thermos bottle; if the day be warm the cloth may be spread on the ground In some sheltered nook and coffee may be boiled over a gypsy fire. Hava you ever tried hot frankfurters on an autumn picnic 7 It not, aon t miss such a treat, but take frank furters along ths very next time. Hang a pail of cold water over your out-door fire. Put in your frankfurters, ana when the water boils they are done. Place them immediately between the halves of split rolls and serve with mustard. Sandwiches for the picnic may be made in no time with bread slices cut thin and spread with a paste of deviled ham and mayonnaise, or wltn cnoppea sardines and mayonnaise. Wrap each sandwich separately In oiled paper. If your guests are fond of your special Welch rarebit you can make the rare bit at home, carry tt along in a bowl nd heat tt over your out-door rire. The toast can be made over the hot coals with the bread slices Impaled on harn sticks. If tou prefer rresniy-maoe eonee carried in a thermos bottle, put a cup of finely ground coffee in an agate pall with a tight cover and when the picnic ground la reached add a quart of water to the coffee. Bring to Douing point over your gypsy fire, add a quart of milk, bring to boiling point again and let stand five minutes, four careruiiy into the cups throurh a small strainer. released by the government now for I private use and the first people to go after them are the housekeepers, who have been patiently darning and mend ing all the linens they had "left over" when the war began, rather than offend their own taste and the taste of family and guests with linen substitutes. Most beautiful are the satin damasks arriving in time for October brides to make selection. If you are a house keeper you know the fascination of new patterns in satin damask for the dining table and the exquisite "feel" of this lustrous fabric. Among the new patterns in tablecloths and napkins there are: The water-Illy, the old fashioned lilac, the apple blossom and a smart, stiff tulip pattern. Maiden hair and sword fern are delicately graceful designs; and very distin guished is the oak-leaf motif. Of course, in these beautiful Irish linens the shamrock is idealized and a dainty Scotch pattern is the thistle. A springtime pattern shows the gay lit tle American daisy, an autumn pat tern for Thanksgtving day use surely the .gallant chrysanthemum. The "Baby Louise" is the latest thing in boot-heels. Pretty as any curved Louise heel Is the "Baby Louise." but considerably lower and more comfort able to wear, when one walks about a good deal. These heels are Informal In type and are used on semi-sport pumps and slippers for house wear. The' very forma! slipper or pump must have a full Louise heel: and most of the new buttoned boots which are com lng out now in such attractive models, show the high French heel, gracefully curved but having sufficient flare at Its base to Insure comfortable stand inc and walking. Satin Damask Table Linen Is Available Again. Uair Slew PmltrrM Are on Band taw Selection by October Brides. "v TO MORE2 frowsy, fuzzy tablecloths XN to spoil the effect of shining sliver and glass; no more soggy napkins that never seem to be quite dry and crisp after they are ironed unless starch is put Into them. And starch In table ii . I. mnh A rrlmtl mm lm itmr In a vinegar salad! r or linens nave oeen New Hear Remover Get Roots and All Here's the greatest thing for hatr-Alafis-ured womankind that has hap pened In a hundred years'. A way to actually tjmv- ' -- fluous hair easily, instantly, and harmlessly! A method that does away forever with shaving, electrolyses, and the application oi preparations wmcn merely taice on me euriace uair. Th nw nhelactine nrocens is so cer tain to remove the hair entire, roots nH all. that druegists are ftndinar it one of their best sellers. There's no odor or mussmess sdoui pneiacune, ana it rs entirely non-poisonous a child onulri xafelv eat it. Get a stick of phelactine today, follow the simple directions, and you will have the sur nrisn of your life. With your own eyes you will see the roots coma oisu JAMm - TODAY'S BEAUTY HELP We find you can bring out the beauty of the hair to Its very best advantage by washing it with canthrox. It maker a very simple, inexpensive shampoo, whk-h cleanses the hair and scalp thor oughly of all the dandruff, dirt and ex cess oil, leaving a wonderfully clean wholesome feeling. After its use, yoi will find that the hair dries quickly and evenly. Is never streaked in appearance and is always bright, soft and fluffy; so fluffy, in fact, that it looks more abundant than it is, and so soft that arranging It becomes a pleasure. Just use a teaspoonful of canthrox. which you can get from any good druggist, dissolve tt In a cup of hot water. This makes a full cup of shampoo liquid, enough so it is easy to apply it to all the hair Instead of just the top of the head. Adv. How IFonralThG Safe Way To Give My baby Milk- " AM the happi- X est woman alive. My baby is on the road to health. 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