TIIE SUNDAY OltEGONIAX. PORTXAXD. SEPTE3IBEII 21, 1919,
7
LITTLE TROTTER FROCK OF LIGHT WOOL
FABRIC IS USEFUL ALL THROUGH AUTUMN
Under a Top Coat, it Will Do in the Winter Months, Too Graceful Lines and Dainty Embroidery Make Costume
More Engaging Than Ever.
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V TOTHDfQ in th way of clothes is
l more useful than the little trot- I
ter frock of light wool fabrio
which one buys about this season, for
wear all through the autumn weeks
with a smart hat and a bit of fur
around the throat; and then through
the winter months under a topcoat.
Every woman is interested in the trot
ter dresses for fall, and as the new
fashions appear this year, these little
frocks seem more engaging- than ever,
with their graceful lines and dainty
embroideries.
Some of the . embroideries are done
with yarn, some with silk floss, some
with yarn and floss combined, and
some with fine braid. And it is hard to
say which effect is the prettiest. There
is one curious thing- about these em
broidered decorationes; in almost all
instances the embroidered pattern is
massed in one place on the tunic
Sleeves and bodice are undecorated,
and skirts are quite plain unless rows
of buttons are added to break a too
severe line.
Never were more buttons used on
frocks! They run up the sleeves and
down the bodice fronts or backs g.nd
sometimes there are rows of buttons at
either side of the ekirt in front and
other rows at the back. Buttons on
skirts always run vertically.
A smart little trotter frock of taupe
wool lersey has panels at each side of
the skirt extending' from hip to hem;
the top of the panel bulging out to
form a pocket, and to give the dis
tended silhouette at the hip. Ball but
tons oo-vered with the material run
down each edge of each panel and
emphasize the long line. The tops of
the panels are embroidered with self
toned soutache in a close design that
extends downward in a deep point on
the paneL Another of these V-ehaped
soutache motifs decorates the front of
the bodice and V-shaped embroidered
motifs run up the sleeve to the elbow.
Around the waist is a narrow sash
with long tasseled ends knotted at one
hip.
The straiglit, chemise blouse, falling
tn easy, graceful lines from shoulder
to hip over a narrow, straight skirt. Is
noted In frock after frock among the
fall models. These chemise blouses are
so becoming and so easy to wear that
it was a foregone conclusion they would
appear m trotter frocks for autumn.
Any woman of average proportions can
be easily fitted in such a model; the
difference, of a size of two makes littlf
difference. Tou may be a size 38, but
a stase 40 in a chemise model will look
very well on you, and there is wider
range of choice when one is shopping
lor a ready-made frock, than U one
size were demanded.
A very charming costume of this
kind is of navy blue tricotine with s
straight, narrow skirt and a chemise
blouse to the hip, the blouse held in
against the figure by a low-placed
sash of black satin. The neck is cut
out in a shallow round and the sleeves
are flaring, in the three-quarter length.
There are six rows of black soutache
around the edge of the blouse, at the
hip; four rows around the edge of the
sleeve, and six rows straight around
the blouse just above the sash line. A
running scroll border of the soutache
about two inches wide, la placed just
above the rows of soutache in each
case.
Though some of the new trotter
dresses have the flaring bell sleeve and
though a few very Parisian models
have short sleeves chopped off above
the elbow, the majority of the fall
trotter frocks have long, very tight
sleeves so tight that one must un
fasten the seam at the wrist to get into
the bodice, and fasten it again when
the sleeve is on. Sometimes this fas
tening is emphasized by a row of but
tons; sometimes it is quite invisible.
the closing being made with hidden
snaps.
One exceedingly smart trotter frock
of navy tricotine has a fold of bright
red silk at the edge of the long, tight
aloowsi and, ithift tiinphlng o -oolcu; 4a
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repeated in the bodice where a strtp
of the red silk, with tiny nickel but
tons down its center, is set under a
long slash from neck to bust. Sleeves-
are perfectly smooth and tight, clear
to the armhole. Comfort to the arm
is iven by a clever shaping of sleeve
and armhole, never by gathers, and the
smoother a sleeve sets the smarter is
the whole frock.
Most of these trotter dresses have the
sleeves set into a lightweight lining,
the front and back sections of the bo
dice -being laid in .graceful, "eased." ef
fect over this lining and the bound or
piped armholes coming well over the
seam where the sleeve is Joined to the
lining. Many bodices fasten at the
front this season and sometimes this
front fastening is emphasized by a row
of buttons and buttonholes. Indeed
many of the new frocks suggest those
tight-fitting, button - down - the - front
basques worn back in the eighties of
the last century. No modern bodice,
however, has darts taken up beneath
the bust. If there are any darts, they
rem, from the shoulder down. the
Was
'
1
iking afier every wearing
saves Silk. Undertimes
r? only your sfTIc undergarmcrits
would not go so fasti
It is perspiration that makes
your things wear out so, and dis
colors them so horribly perspira
tion that is allowed to dry on the
fibre and weaken it.
But dip your garments into deli
cateLux suds every time you wear
them, and they will keep whole
and new through dozens of wear
ings! For Lux cleanses wonder
fully, without rubbing and it will
not injure anything that pure water
alone will not injure.
Don't have even one more sSk.
garment ruined by perspiration.
Order Lux today from your grocer,
druggist, or department store.
Lever Bros. Co., Cambridge, Mass.
How to wash silk under
things
Whisk a titles poori fij of Lux into a thick
bt&er in half a bowlful of boiling or very hot
water. Add cold water till lukewarm. Dip
your things through the foamy lather many
time squeeze the euds through them Jo mot
rwk. Rinse in three waters the same tempera
ture as the water in which you washed them.
Squeeze the water out do not wring. Dry
in the shade. When nearly dry, press with a
warm iron never a hot one. Glove silk should
be gently shaped as you iron.
TrlERE IS NOTHING LIKE LUX
FOR DELICATE FABRICS !
bust, and the line over the boat is
kept as flat as possible.
A French frock for street wear has
this buttoned-in-f ront basque in most
decided suggestion. There is a tight
appearing bodice with tight sleeves and
a high stock collar. Two rows of small
covered buttons run down the front
from the top of the collar to the waist
line and continue three inches below
the waistline on a pointed peplum. At
the back this peplum slopes down to
make an old-fashioned square postilion
on which are more buttons. Two rows
of buttons run up the sleeve from
wrist to elbow but at the front of the
arm, not the back as is usual. The
exceedingly trim, neat waistline is set
off by a very narrow belt of patent
leather.
The smartest waistline finish for
your tailored frock is a very, very nar
row belt of shiny leather. Or you may
have a very narrow sash of the frock
material, knotted at one side. Or you
may prefer a cord girdle, using two
lengthsof rather heavy silk cable cord
with a knot and single eash end dec
orated with a big tassel.
A frock of navy blue tricotine has a
girdle of this sort and the-.-e is another
interesting thing about .he frock; Its
long tunic overskirt wi'.h gored seams
at each side. It has been a long time
since gores appeared 'n women's over
skirts or skirts eith ir. for that mat
ter. The sloping seams of the tun la
give it a graceful flare over a straight.
narrow skirt. This frock has silk floss
embroidery on the .tunic, between waist
and hip. Elsewhere the frock is but
ton-trimmed, four rows of buttons up
the skirt, a row up each sleeve and a
row down the center front of the bodice.
If you do not cars for a very narrow
belt or eash you may have a wide
girdle of draped satin defining a low
waistline. Some of these girdles are
set quite at the hip and the bodice
does not blouse above the sash, but
falls flat and straight from shoulder
to sash, a style for slender figures of
course. And be sure your new trotter
frock comes to the ankle; any other
length is mmodiih.
An instance of the writable craze for
embroidery on wool material is this
trotter frock (3287) of navy blue serge
with white dots embroidered by hand
all over the bodice and part way down
the hip. A few more dots have been
added for good measure on the sleeves,
and borders embroidered in white and
blue add their decorative effect. Like
most of the fall trotter frocks in tailor
style, this one has a collar around the
neck. The collar less neck is almost en
tirely out of fashion.
Either pockets, plaits or drapery one
must have now over the hips for no
skirt that hangs straight and plain to
the ankle is modish any more. This
trotter frock (3849) for autumn is of
fine navy blue serge and its perfect
simplicity could hardly be surpassed.
It shapes In a bit to reveal the curves
of the figure, and the shoulder and
arm are closely outlined. A braid, and
silk embroidery, arranged In a deep
oval over bodice and upper ekirt. givea
attractive color and variety to the plain
little rrocje.
Woman has beoom wedded to wool
jersey which gives such slender, grace
ful Imes to the figure and wool jersey
trotter rrocks are appearing in num
bers zor autumn wear. Mere Is one
(4025) In the new smoke gray shade
which is particularly fashionable. Part
of the bodice and all of the sleeve are
embroidered with two shades of array
silk floes in a bold conventional de
sign and the embroidered fronts en
close a straight, narrow vest of th
wool Jersey. A small collar, of course,
has this new rrocR tor Ian.
Olives are the longest lived fruit
trees, some in syria naving Dome aoun
dant crops for more than four cen
tuziea.
Hot Frankfurters Are Suita
able for Autumn Picnics.
Welrfc Rabbits May Be Takes Along
and Heated Over Outdoor Fire.
TJERE is no time for automobile pic
nics like autumn time. June is the
ideal season for ordinary picnics where
one sits on the grass under whispering
trees, but autumn for the automobile
picnic autumn with invigorating air,
gorgeous coloring and wonderful sun
sets! If It is chilly one sits on the car
to eat luncheon and hot coffee comes
out of a trusty thermos bottle; if the
day be warm the cloth may be spread
on the ground In some sheltered nook
and coffee may be boiled over a gypsy
fire.
Hava you ever tried hot frankfurters
on an autumn picnic 7 It not, aon t
miss such a treat, but take frank
furters along ths very next time. Hang
a pail of cold water over your out-door
fire. Put in your frankfurters, ana
when the water boils they are done.
Place them immediately between the
halves of split rolls and serve with
mustard.
Sandwiches for the picnic may be
made in no time with bread slices cut
thin and spread with a paste of deviled
ham and mayonnaise, or wltn cnoppea
sardines and mayonnaise. Wrap each
sandwich separately In oiled paper. If
your guests are fond of your special
Welch rarebit you can make the rare
bit at home, carry tt along in a bowl
nd heat tt over your out-door rire.
The toast can be made over the hot
coals with the bread slices Impaled on
harn sticks.
If tou prefer rresniy-maoe eonee
carried in a thermos bottle, put a cup
of finely ground coffee in an agate pall
with a tight cover and when the picnic
ground la reached add a quart of water
to the coffee. Bring to Douing point
over your gypsy fire, add a quart of
milk, bring to boiling point again and
let stand five minutes, four careruiiy
into the cups throurh a small strainer.
released by the government now for I
private use and the first people to go
after them are the housekeepers, who
have been patiently darning and mend
ing all the linens they had "left over"
when the war began, rather than offend
their own taste and the taste of family
and guests with linen substitutes.
Most beautiful are the satin damasks
arriving in time for October brides to
make selection. If you are a house
keeper you know the fascination of
new patterns in satin damask for the
dining table and the exquisite "feel" of
this lustrous fabric. Among the new
patterns in tablecloths and napkins
there are: The water-Illy, the old
fashioned lilac, the apple blossom and
a smart, stiff tulip pattern. Maiden
hair and sword fern are delicately
graceful designs; and very distin
guished is the oak-leaf motif.
Of course, in these beautiful Irish
linens the shamrock is idealized and a
dainty Scotch pattern is the thistle. A
springtime pattern shows the gay lit
tle American daisy, an autumn pat
tern for Thanksgtving day use surely
the .gallant chrysanthemum.
The "Baby Louise" is the latest thing
in boot-heels. Pretty as any curved
Louise heel Is the "Baby Louise." but
considerably lower and more comfort
able to wear, when one walks about a
good deal. These heels are Informal
In type and are used on semi-sport
pumps and slippers for house wear.
The' very forma! slipper or pump must
have a full Louise heel: and most of
the new buttoned boots which are com
lng out now in such attractive models,
show the high French heel, gracefully
curved but having sufficient flare at
Its base to Insure comfortable stand
inc and walking.
Satin Damask Table Linen
Is Available Again.
Uair Slew PmltrrM Are on Band
taw Selection by October Brides.
"v TO MORE2 frowsy, fuzzy tablecloths
XN to spoil the effect of shining sliver
and glass; no more soggy napkins that
never seem to be quite dry and crisp
after they are ironed unless starch is
put Into them. And starch In table
ii . I. mnh A rrlmtl mm lm itmr In
a vinegar salad! r or linens nave oeen
New Hear Remover
Get Roots and All
Here's the greatest thing for hatr-Alafis-ured
womankind that has hap
pened In a hundred years'. A way to
actually tjmv- ' --
fluous hair easily, instantly, and
harmlessly! A method that does away
forever with shaving, electrolyses, and
the application oi preparations wmcn
merely taice on me euriace uair.
Th nw nhelactine nrocens is so cer
tain to remove the hair entire, roots
nH all. that druegists are ftndinar it
one of their best sellers. There's no
odor or mussmess sdoui pneiacune, ana
it rs entirely non-poisonous a child
onulri xafelv eat it. Get a stick of
phelactine today, follow the simple
directions, and you will have the sur
nrisn of your life. With your own
eyes you will see the roots coma oisu
JAMm -
TODAY'S BEAUTY HELP
We find you can bring out the beauty
of the hair to Its very best advantage
by washing it with canthrox. It maker
a very simple, inexpensive shampoo,
whk-h cleanses the hair and scalp thor
oughly of all the dandruff, dirt and ex
cess oil, leaving a wonderfully clean
wholesome feeling. After its use, yoi
will find that the hair dries quickly and
evenly. Is never streaked in appearance
and is always bright, soft and fluffy;
so fluffy, in fact, that it looks more
abundant than it is, and so soft that
arranging It becomes a pleasure. Just
use a teaspoonful of canthrox. which
you can get from any good druggist,
dissolve tt In a cup of hot water. This
makes a full cup of shampoo liquid,
enough so it is easy to apply it to all
the hair Instead of just the top of the
head. Adv.
How IFonralThG Safe Way
To Give My baby Milk-
" AM the happi-
X
est woman alive.
My baby is on the
road to health.
Only a mother can know
what that meansl
Our doctor told me that the
safest way to give him milk was
to give him Ncstle's Milk Food
which is made out of pure .milk
modified with just the right amount
of sugar and cereal.'
He explained to me that mating the
milk into a fluffy powder breaks up
those hard-to-digest curds, so that
then you add water and boil just a
minute, you have the nearest thing in
the world to mother's milk clean,
safe, and almost sure to agree with a
baby's delicate stomach.
That is why I am the happiest woman
alive for my baby is wclL
I know that if your baby has trouble
with his food, the Nestle Company will
be glad to help you. They will send
you free, as they sent me.abig Mother's
Book on how to take care of your baby
and enough Ncstle's Food for 12 feed
ings. All you have to do is to fill out and
send the coupon. Then you can be, with
me, the happiest woman in the world
because your baby is well.
Nettle's is pure Milk in powder form that n aliody soodificd ana
docs noc require the farther addition of milk. Always pure and
safe, alwars nniform. and free from the danrera of home modifica
tion, Nettle's has stood the teat of three generations and aa tmd ij
ti Uri tsJt fmJ hmiy fi in liu BwU,
FREE ! Enough Nestle's for
12 feedings. Send the coupon !
NESTLE'S
S)am.'s Food Coutot Inc.
SIS Call Bids.. San Francisco. Cal.
Pleaae trad mm tree raw morn sad trial svefcard.
CUT.
s
MILK.
FOOD