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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 3, 1919)
THE SUXDAT OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST 3, 1919. GRAY CREPE SATIN FROCK GIVES OUTLINE OF SLENDERNESS NOW SO POPULAR WITH FAIR ONES Dainty Challis Frocks Reigning at Summer Resorts Linen Again Exalted to High Position, Noir That War Department Has No Further Need for It. : X, f? ft.,, X V- - f?f i XJi V"'"- '' fX'XX V feLv "; U'h" 1,19 ' I ; X W" 1 I " - S Wl - . "rkA r- - x . v -s'X-sSX Wv?' -" n . X'fl-- X x ' -11 r'ffy' -f V . r xl Y x; Hj I. -m '-iHiV'i : . V :V- M;.' - V.' x v ;. 1" it hot fbtrt not boileJ milk. Beat an egsr yolk into the milk if yon can af- tora it. Put about one-half cup of hot milk into the cup and Till up with cof fee made a little stronger than if you were coins to use cream with it. Put I a very tiny pinch of salt into the cof- tee. 6. Have the coffee finely gTour.d. Coarse ground cbffee is very wasteful and extravagant. If you have no per colator make a stout muslin bav open tt one end and put this over the top of the pitcher or coffee pot to act as a strainer. Scald the tag- daily. 7. Use fresh boiling- (measured wa ter and pour it over the measured cof fee in the etrainer. Set the coffee pot or pitcher in hot water to keep warm but co not boil. This method is more wholesome than the boilinp method, uses less coffej and does not extract so much of the tinnin and bitterness. No egg is required to clear it. If pre ferred the liquid coffee may be poured twice through the grounds (the coffee pot heinor kept hot as described) but usually once will be enough. A little practice will soon enable you to make perfectly clear, fragrant ooffee with out boiliner and without a percolator, and the beverage will bo more de :ic:ous. more wholesome and Kss ex pensive than the boiled coffee made from the coarse ground berries. Hea' inc the coffee before pouring on the boiling wp.ter helps to develop the flavor. Buckwheat cakes with yeast. These are best for cold weather, both from the point of view of regulating the batter and a digesting the cakes. One cake fresh compressed yeast. 2 cups milk scalded and cooled to lukewarm. 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon molasses, hi cup wheat flour, 3"-i cups buck wheat flour. Soften, the yeast in a little of the milk and combine with the molasses and salt. Add the rest of the milk and then stir in graduaily the flour to mnke a smooth batter. Let rise over night. In the morning, thin a little if necessary and rook on n well-greased griddle. As this gives a larger quantity than I Judge you would find convenient to use it might be best for you to use only half the formula at first. Following' is given by Mrs. J. H. S. in reply to a rerent request for a recipe for "encheladas." Encheladas (Mrs. J. H. S.) Cut up In ery small pieces about one pound lean beef. Brown it in 1 tablespoon lard and add 5 pods garlic cut fine. Then add H can tomatoes. S teaspoons Mexican sage, 5 teaspoons carinminia seed (powdered), salt and cayenne to taste and cook very slowly about two hours. Have ready some tortillas (thin cornmeal hot cakes cooked on a griddle) and dip each one into the gravy. Mix the meat with 1 large onion finely chopped and scalded (by Pouring boiling water over it in a strainer), 5 or 6 tablespoons dry grated cheese (or more to taste) and 2 or 3 hard boiled egs. You may add some chopped olives if you like. Put this filling in the tortilla and roll up. Pile them as -hey are rolled and pour the rest of the gravy over them. Sprinkle with grated cheese and heat through in the oven, srarnish with olives and serve ery hot. PORTLAND. Or., June 6. Will you pleasn give me a detailed recipe for a crab cock tail for six persons? Thankins you in ad vance, MRS. F. A. F. Crab cocktail For six pej-sons allow one-half pound crab meat, carefully flaked. For the dressing allow three tablespoons tomato catsup, 2 table spoons fresh grated horseradish (may be omitted). 2 tablespoons very finely chopped celery, the Juice of one email lemon (or one-half lemon and one-half orange), 1 or 2 tablespoons tarraeon vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste. Two tablespoons finely minced pimlento may be added if liked. Paprica also is an optional ingredient. The dressing, in fact, can be very considerably varied to suit personal taste. Serve very cold in cocktail glasses. iiiinui THE following hand furnished a good example of the subject I treated last week where the dealer un der certain conditions bids a minor suit and later changes to a major, his part ner giving him the chance to rebid by raising his original bid, if having the strength to warrant it, though second bidder passes. The hand was played In duplicate, several tables taking part, and the re sults were various, according to the particular treatment it received. It is noteworthy, however, that the only table at which the dealer went game was where he and his partner observed the above mentioned system, of bid ding. This fact alone does not prove that the bid is sound or would work to the best interests at all times, but it forms an interesting example oi the system and is worthy of consider ation. This is the hand: Q 10 A Q 10 2 J 1 0 6 4 Q J 5 Hud la Explained, It is the first game love score. Strictly speaking, the dealer's hand comes within the requirements of a heart bid. The suit contains five cards to two honors, one being the king, and there are two outside tricks. It is undeniably weak, however, and In itself offers but little promise. Unless it should happen to hit strength in the partner's hand it is doubtful if it would stand even for the one-trick contract. the spade. At both of these tables B doubled. At one of them A, in response, called "two clubs": at the other, "no trumps." At the "two club" bid A lost by one trick, or SO. Having an honor ore. however, of 30, his loss was re duced to 20. At the no-trump bid A lost by one trick, or 50, honors easy. At three tables ail players passed. and the hand was thrown up. At one table Z, A and Y passed and B called "no trumps" and made his contract, or 10, honors easy. At the table at which Z bid a dia mond A passed, and Y, sensing the situation and having the strength to warrant his doing- so, a trick and a raiser (the ace and king of spades) and three diamonds to an honor, called "two diamonds." This gave Z the chance to rebid, and. B passing, he called "two hearts." at which the hand was played The play went as follows: PARIS promises a bouffant silhou ette for fall; but the smart out line this summer is just as slim and narrow as it can be. Not all women can achieve it. Here is one that has. Her frock for cool evenings by the sea is of gray crepe satin with an ovr blouse of rose Jersey bordered with gray angora. Tassels of the same trimming dangle from one shoulder. Xoth blouse and skirt have the atten uated slenderness that fashion approves and the skirt clings close around the feet. Linen, returned to fashion by the war department, which requires it no more has been exalted to a high place so rejoiced is fashion to have it back. With this formal afternoon costume, goes a new blouse of oyster white linen bordered with bands of real cluny. A stunning parasol of white taffeta and ostrich and a fetching hat all in Pekin blue, accompany the linen blouse. You can see the formal, long-wristed gloves; her footwear is formal also; white kid boots with French heels. buttoned tops and as autumn approacnes, you will see more and more of these dainty challis frocks. They are very smart now at fashionable summer resorts. This frock of navy blue challis is quite a simple little affair, but is made strikingly smart by the organdy collar, cuffs and sash, the sash tied rather low over the hips. A blue hat and white buttoned boots will make this little frock perfect in correctness. PORTLAND. Or., June 29. Will you p!eae jiv me dlrectlona for making food coffee without a perco'.ntor, also for buckwhent oku with yeatt ? MRS. M. R. I AM sorry you have had to wait for part of your answer, but I hope you saw the reply to some of your ques tions given recently in this column. In regard to the coffee, be sure to sret the kind you really like, and if the coffee you are now using is not satis factory make a few experiment, buy ing small quantities of other kinds and using them in exactly the same way (as given below) until you find the one that best suits your taste and that of your husband. Some people prefer the cheaper and some the more expensive varieties. Some time ago a despairing young housekeeper asked me for advice about coffee. She had a rood percolator, used the very finest and most expensive grade of coffee, took great care in making it, but was quite unable to produce what her hus band considered a "drinkable" cup of coffee. I suggested a little experi menting with different grades of cof fee besides giving her general direc tions on the principles of coffee making-. Later she told me that her hus band considered "just perfect" a coffee which was really not much more than half the price of her original choice grade! Now for general principles: 1. Always measure carefully both coffee and water. Then you will not have it "strong one day and weak the next" as you say in your letter. Gen erally allow one level tablespoon cof fee for each cup water plus one table spoon "tor the pot." 2. Have the coffee as freshly roasted and ground as possible. This means buying in small quantities and keeping tightly covered in a tin. If you use much coffee it may be worth while to have a coffee mill. Then you can buy sugniiy larger quantities or roasted cof fee beans, heating a few of them s little In a pan or oven and grinding. j l. - niuvu i j nccucu xor eacn meal. 3. Be sure your coffee pot is per fectly clean emptied and scrubbed alter eacn brew, do not use a. metal coffee pot, and if you use granite ware be sure it is unchipped. An earthen pitcher makes an excellent coffee pot. 4. Do not soak or boil the coffee un less you are anxious to have a bitter taste and as much tannin as possible. The tannin Is bad for your digestion and the bitterness overpowers the more oelicate aroma and flavor. 6. Good cream is at least "half the battle" In making & good cup of cof fee. If good cream is not available, make the coffee atronser and use with 8 5 4 2 9 8 3 Q 8 2 A K 3 A 9 Y K J 7 5 4 A B 9 7 3 Z t 9 8 2 1 K J 7 6 3 6 A K 5 10 7 6 4 lished forms, taking comfort in the consciousness that they play a con ventional and safe, if not a brilliant, game. - For such players there can be no better advice than that embodied in the following: "Safety First- Sound Policy. Tn order to "play safe" you must Know the bids and when to sta.ke them. Know the leads and when to make them. Know the tricks and when to take them. Know the rules and when to break them, nKow the laws and ne'er forsake them. Apropos of the laws. I have recently received the following: "In a game we were recently playins an important contest, as It was the final setting for the season of a series of games and the question of score was an important one the adversary to my right led before the bidding was completed. Then came the question of what to do. Two of the players con tended that there should be a new deal and this, in fact, was the course we finally resorted to. One of the players confessed entire iarnorance in the mat ter, and I alone insisted that there was undoubtedly a penalty in connection with the offense, but whether this was really so. or what it was. I did not know. Will you kindly set us right In the matter and oblige? "CONSTANT READER." Quearion Is Answered. I am very glad this eubject has come up. as it might not have occurred to me otherwise to speRk of it, yet I doubt not there are several who need enlight enment on the point. I find, in fact, a laree number, among them professedly good players, who not only are igno rant as-to the laws, but apparently look upon them as so many arbitrary and useless restrictions which tend to handi cap the game and are productive of no real benefit.. Therein they make their mistake. The laws governing auction are. if anything, a more important fea ture of the irarne than the rules gov- At two tables, however, Z started withlernlng play, and at least should be ac corded equal consideration ana respect. Without the laws the game could have no stable or definite existence: without them disputes would constantly arise wfcich it would be Impossible satisfac torily to settle. As the result ill feeling would ofen be engendered which would not always be confined to the card table, but would often assert Itself in other walks and departments of life, sometimes causir.g complete estrange ment between hitherto good friends. The laws are the final decision in all arguments; they are the highest court of appeal; they are unbreakable, un wavering, of composite authorship and universal acceptance. Rules may be broken, laws may not. Xow. however, as to the special ques tion asked: The writer is correct. There is a penalty attaching- to the act and by no means a light one. Law 66. the law governing the case, reads as fol lows: Law la Quoted. "After the deal and before the decla ration has been finally determined, if any player lead or expose a card, his partner may not thereafter bid or double during that declaration, and the card, if it belong to an adversary of the eventual declarer, becomes an ex posed card. When the partner of the offending player Is the original leader, the declarer may also prohibit the Initial lead of the suit of the exposed card." Law BO has the following to say: "If a player who has been debarred from bidding under laws 49. 50, 52 -or 66, during the period of such prohibition, make any declaration (other than pass- ) either adversary may decide whether such declaration stand, and neither the offending player nor his partner may further participate in the bidding even if the adversaries double or declare." Offense Is Doable. As is seen, the one offense, that of leadingbefore the bidding Is completed, entails still another, as the card led becomes an exposed card. This in itself is subject to penalty. Moreover, as when the partner of the player who wrong ly leads turns out to be the real leader to the hand, he may otherwise lead the suit of the exposed card to the man! fest advantage of the side still another restriction or penalty is added that of prohibiting this player from leading the suit. As is.seen, therefore, there are three penalties attaching to the act. In many other cases where infringe ments are made, the aggrieved adver sary or his partner often can choose which one of one or more penalties he may exact. Not so in this case, how ever. All should be claimed. While at first thought this may seem arbitrary and drastic, in reality it is absolutely necessary for the protection of the aa versarles and if one would preserve the strict integrity and honesty of the game. At the card table, as in all walks of life, one will occasionally run up against really dishonest people play ers who would not hesitate to resort to unfair methods if they felt they could do so with impunity and without rendering themselves liable to penalties should they be discovered. Were there no punishment attaching to their un fair methods this naturally would at times give them an undue advantage over their adversaries, players per haps who would scorn to do an unfair or dishonest act, be the temptation ever so great or the act ever so smalL In the case of this particular in fringement the player could easily claim that he supposed the bidding was completed. He could easily lead an ace which could influence his partner, if It turned out he was the player to lead to the first trick, to lead the suit did not the law expressly stipulate he could not do so. In this manner he could give his partner an early lead and perhaps Trick. 6. .. 7... 8... 9. .. 10. . . 11... 12... 13. .. I A Y B Z 6 3 A 6 4 8 Q 3 2 K 5 4 A 2 10 3" K 9 2 6 8 As J 6 9 4 Q" K" 3 Q 4 54 74 S 10 K4 ? 24 At 9 C4 Q 7 7 5 J 7" J k 2 10a Denotes winner of trick. Z-Y four by cards, or 32 (game), less simple honors, 16. Leads Are Discussed. Trick 1 A correctly leads his fourth beat club. B winning with ace. and at Trick 2 returning the queen. Trumped by Z. who at Trick 3 puts the dummy In with the king of spades that the trump lead may come from the dummy rather than him self. Trick 4 Dummy leads the trump, de clarer finessing the jack, which falls to A with the ace. Trick 5 A leads the king of clubs to give declarer another force. De clarer trumps and leads at Trick 6 a second spade, dummy win ning with ace. and leading at Trick 7 a second round of trumps, which declarer wins with king. The adversaries now being exhausted of trumps, at Tricks 8, 9 and 10 declarer has three rounds of diamonds. At Trick 11 he leads the spade, which B wins with queen, and at Tricks 12 and 13 makes the remain ing trumps. In suggesting that this form of bid ding, which, .as I explained last week. is being tried out by a number of wel known eastern players, be experimented upon by some of our own players, I wish it to be distinctly understood that I am in no sense advocating the bid. or that I feel it will in the long run prove profitable. Indeed, it is yet too new and I have had too little ex perience with it myself to be able to form any definite opinion concerning it. That it has some advantages, as shown by the hand as given, there can be little doubt, but whether these advantages are sufficiently great as to offset its disadvantages (as. for in stance, when one will be left to play the bid) remains to be seen. Time and experience alone will demonstrate. Experiments Are Danceroiu, It should be needless to say that only the best and soundest players, such as can safely go out of the beaten track without in any way detracting from the soundness of their game. should experiment with the bid. For all but this class of players there Is nothing but to stick, closely to estab OBTRUSIVE COLLAR BONES MAY BE HELPED BY MASSAGE Cocoa Butter Faithfully Applied Will do Much to Put on Becoming Layer of Flesh. I - ' X"X . ; " X - - s " I ''v ' - X- s iXX ' - A. fx i " " X. V x k x I V , " ! . . -.v.x . i - -: . x - x - - - 4 - ; N T - x 14 , . " ' t . - - . xX , X - i - - l - Y 1 I ' " 1 ' xl , x. .4 1 I x - V t V x it XX X ssissssssssssssssssssssssjssssssssm 'vlldfl'iLimmmmi I itfxt x xi "x -y r - . x - x x. -1 If x , X x v f i -i X f x V XxKXX-. .V .. V" X X j liSs$?jrr foSSfS' S'ojy&s &r -Zr7j7zsj7?jr SOME women have dainty little col lar bones that never seem to be obtrusive no matter how thin the rigure; but usually those ugly little bones just below the throat show up first of all when one loses flesh and are the last bones to become graciously padded when flesh is taken on. it tne whole bony structure of the figure is delicately formed collar bones are not likely to obtrude themselves conspicu ously, even when a women is very slender, but the possessor of big bones, whether in knuckles, ankles, wrists or clavicles (otherwise collar bones) has to subdue these excrescences all ehe can in order not to look angular. massage will do much to cover the collar bones with a becoming layer of fat and this Ts one place in the figure where a little fat is always attractive. Massage every night with the finger tips, using the cocoa butter generously. Lemon juice will help to keep tan and freckles from the neck and before you go in swimming rub in cold cream and cover lightly with talcum. A neck with a dark ring of sunburn below the throat line is not pretty with an evening frock! Some women even wear high necked bathing dresses and, though these are not very comfortable, the slight discomfort pays when one has a lovely throat and shoulders to protect. Cocoa butter faithfully applied with admit of his leading up to weakness in the hand of dummy, to the discomfit ure of the declarer. On the other hand, were he, the partner of the offending player, allowed further participation in the bidding, he would often be tempted, especially if himself having fair strength in the suit though not enough to justify his calling it for his own hand, to bid the suit of the exposed card, the suit in which he knows his partner to hold that ace. In many ways which space will not admit of my enu merating the side committing this par ticular offense could easily gain a de cided advantage were it not for the re strictions debarring them from doing So and tending to make the game fair and just for all. Time Refutes Dr. Osier. Boston Post. Marion Harland is 88 years of age and is just as active as she was when she was 50. Henry Cabot Lodge, near ing 70, is like a young man of 40. Ed ison, at "2, never seems to get old. Clemenceau, over 80, is at the zenith of his power. Uncle Joe Cannon is over 83 and is going as hard as ever. Sllarht Misunderstanding,. Yonkers Statesman. Mrs. Flatbush Do you like sandals? Mrs. Bensonhurst Oh, yes; I love them. "Then you do wear them sometimes?" "Wear 'em? Wear what?" "Why, sandals." "Oh, excuse me. I thought you asked me It I liked scandals." Linen Lingerie Coming Back Into Fashion. Paris Creations In "Undies" Exquisitely Beautiful. Are INTIMATE linens for milady grew to be no more than a figure of speech in recent years, for linens have been so scarce and hard to get that milady took to wearing cotton batiste if she could not afford silk. In years gone by, garments worn next the skin were always of fine linen when exclusive ness of style was a point to be consfid ered. Beautiful were the hand-woven, hacd embroidered linen undergarments of women in the last century and in cen turies before that; it has only beeji in later years that cotton or muslin under garments obtained favor with particu lar people, and then only because Buce fabrics were of pleasingly fine, so it texture. Now linen garments for in timate wear are coming back into fal ion perhaps because, war restriction being over, linen is again obtainable in quantity for personal use. At any rate, fashion has taken a notion to fine linen "undies" and some of the Paris created lingerie of sheer Irish linen is exquisitely beautiful as well as about the coolest, most delightful thing anr woman could put on. for sultry summer days- 1