THE SUXDAT OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST 3, 1919.
GRAY CREPE SATIN FROCK GIVES OUTLINE OF
SLENDERNESS NOW SO POPULAR WITH FAIR ONES
Dainty Challis Frocks Reigning at Summer Resorts Linen Again Exalted to High Position, Noir That War
Department Has No Further Need for It.
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it hot fbtrt not boileJ milk. Beat an
egsr yolk into the milk if yon can af-
tora it. Put about one-half cup of hot
milk into the cup and Till up with cof
fee made a little stronger than if you
were coins to use cream with it. Put
I a very tiny pinch of salt into the cof-
tee.
6. Have the coffee finely gTour.d.
Coarse ground cbffee is very wasteful
and extravagant. If you have no per
colator make a stout muslin bav open
tt one end and put this over the top
of the pitcher or coffee pot to act as
a strainer. Scald the tag- daily.
7. Use fresh boiling- (measured wa
ter and pour it over the measured cof
fee in the etrainer. Set the coffee pot
or pitcher in hot water to keep warm
but co not boil. This method is more
wholesome than the boilinp method,
uses less coffej and does not extract
so much of the tinnin and bitterness.
No egg is required to clear it. If pre
ferred the liquid coffee may be poured
twice through the grounds (the coffee
pot heinor kept hot as described) but
usually once will be enough. A little
practice will soon enable you to make
perfectly clear, fragrant ooffee with
out boiliner and without a percolator,
and the beverage will bo more de
:ic:ous. more wholesome and Kss ex
pensive than the boiled coffee made
from the coarse ground berries. Hea'
inc the coffee before pouring on the
boiling wp.ter helps to develop the
flavor.
Buckwheat cakes with yeast. These
are best for cold weather, both from
the point of view of regulating the
batter and a digesting the cakes. One
cake fresh compressed yeast. 2 cups
milk scalded and cooled to lukewarm.
1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon molasses,
hi cup wheat flour, 3"-i cups buck
wheat flour. Soften, the yeast in a
little of the milk and combine with the
molasses and salt. Add the rest of the
milk and then stir in graduaily the
flour to mnke a smooth batter. Let
rise over night. In the morning, thin
a little if necessary and rook on n
well-greased griddle. As this gives a
larger quantity than I Judge you would
find convenient to use it might be best
for you to use only half the formula
at first.
Following' is given by Mrs. J. H. S.
in reply to a rerent request for a
recipe for "encheladas."
Encheladas (Mrs. J. H. S.) Cut up
In ery small pieces about one pound
lean beef. Brown it in 1 tablespoon
lard and add 5 pods garlic cut fine.
Then add H can tomatoes. S teaspoons
Mexican sage, 5 teaspoons carinminia
seed (powdered), salt and cayenne to
taste and cook very slowly about two
hours. Have ready some tortillas
(thin cornmeal hot cakes cooked on a
griddle) and dip each one into the
gravy. Mix the meat with 1 large
onion finely chopped and scalded (by
Pouring boiling water over it in a
strainer), 5 or 6 tablespoons dry grated
cheese (or more to taste) and 2 or 3
hard boiled egs. You may add some
chopped olives if you like. Put this
filling in the tortilla and roll up. Pile
them as -hey are rolled and pour the
rest of the gravy over them. Sprinkle
with grated cheese and heat through
in the oven, srarnish with olives and
serve ery hot.
PORTLAND. Or., June 6. Will you pleasn
give me a detailed recipe for a crab cock
tail for six persons? Thankins you in ad
vance, MRS. F. A. F.
Crab cocktail For six pej-sons allow
one-half pound crab meat, carefully
flaked. For the dressing allow three
tablespoons tomato catsup, 2 table
spoons fresh grated horseradish (may
be omitted). 2 tablespoons very finely
chopped celery, the Juice of one email
lemon (or one-half lemon and one-half
orange), 1 or 2 tablespoons tarraeon
vinegar, salt and cayenne to taste. Two
tablespoons finely minced pimlento may
be added if liked. Paprica also is an
optional ingredient. The dressing, in
fact, can be very considerably varied
to suit personal taste. Serve very cold
in cocktail glasses.
iiiinui
THE following hand furnished a good
example of the subject I treated
last week where the dealer un
der certain conditions bids a minor suit
and later changes to a major, his part
ner giving him the chance to rebid by
raising his original bid, if having the
strength to warrant it, though second
bidder passes.
The hand was played In duplicate,
several tables taking part, and the re
sults were various, according to the
particular treatment it received. It is
noteworthy, however, that the only
table at which the dealer went game
was where he and his partner observed
the above mentioned system, of bid
ding. This fact alone does not prove
that the bid is sound or would work
to the best interests at all times, but
it forms an interesting example oi
the system and is worthy of consider
ation. This is the hand:
Q 10
A Q 10 2
J 1 0 6 4
Q J 5
Hud la Explained,
It is the first game love score.
Strictly speaking, the dealer's hand
comes within the requirements of a
heart bid. The suit contains five cards
to two honors, one being the king, and
there are two outside tricks. It is
undeniably weak, however, and In itself
offers but little promise. Unless it
should happen to hit strength in the
partner's hand it is doubtful if it would
stand even for the one-trick contract.
the spade. At both of these tables B
doubled. At one of them A, in response,
called "two clubs": at the other, "no
trumps." At the "two club" bid A lost
by one trick, or SO. Having an honor
ore. however, of 30, his loss was re
duced to 20. At the no-trump bid A
lost by one trick, or 50, honors easy.
At three tables ail players passed.
and the hand was thrown up. At one
table Z, A and Y passed and B called
"no trumps" and made his contract, or
10, honors easy.
At the table at which Z bid a dia
mond A passed, and Y, sensing the
situation and having the strength to
warrant his doing- so, a trick and a
raiser (the ace and king of spades)
and three diamonds to an honor, called
"two diamonds." This gave Z the chance
to rebid, and. B passing, he called "two
hearts." at which the hand was played
The play went as follows:
PARIS promises a bouffant silhou
ette for fall; but the smart out
line this summer is just as slim
and narrow as it can be. Not all women
can achieve it. Here is one that has.
Her frock for cool evenings by the sea
is of gray crepe satin with an ovr
blouse of rose Jersey bordered with
gray angora. Tassels of the same
trimming dangle from one shoulder.
Xoth blouse and skirt have the atten
uated slenderness that fashion approves
and the skirt clings close around the
feet.
Linen, returned to fashion by the war
department, which requires it no more
has been exalted to a high place so
rejoiced is fashion to have it back.
With this formal afternoon costume,
goes a new blouse of oyster white linen
bordered with bands of real cluny. A
stunning parasol of white taffeta and
ostrich and a fetching hat all in Pekin
blue, accompany the linen blouse. You
can see the formal, long-wristed gloves;
her footwear is formal also; white
kid boots with
French heels.
buttoned tops and
as autumn approacnes, you will see
more and more of these dainty challis
frocks. They are very smart now at
fashionable summer resorts. This frock
of navy blue challis is quite a simple
little affair, but is made strikingly
smart by the organdy collar, cuffs and
sash, the sash tied rather low over the
hips. A blue hat and white buttoned
boots will make this little frock perfect
in correctness.
PORTLAND. Or., June 29. Will you p!eae
jiv me dlrectlona for making food coffee
without a perco'.ntor, also for buckwhent
oku with yeatt ? MRS. M. R.
I AM sorry you have had to wait for
part of your answer, but I hope you
saw the reply to some of your ques
tions given recently in this column.
In regard to the coffee, be sure to
sret the kind you really like, and if the
coffee you are now using is not satis
factory make a few experiment, buy
ing small quantities of other kinds
and using them in exactly the same
way (as given below) until you find
the one that best suits your taste and
that of your husband. Some people
prefer the cheaper and some the more
expensive varieties. Some time ago a
despairing young housekeeper asked
me for advice about coffee. She had a
rood percolator, used the very finest
and most expensive grade of coffee,
took great care in making it, but was
quite unable to produce what her hus
band considered a "drinkable" cup of
coffee. I suggested a little experi
menting with different grades of cof
fee besides giving her general direc
tions on the principles of coffee making-.
Later she told me that her hus
band considered "just perfect" a coffee
which was really not much more than
half the price of her original choice
grade!
Now for general principles:
1. Always measure carefully both
coffee and water. Then you will not
have it "strong one day and weak the
next" as you say in your letter. Gen
erally allow one level tablespoon cof
fee for each cup water plus one table
spoon "tor the pot."
2. Have the coffee as freshly roasted
and ground as possible. This means
buying in small quantities and keeping
tightly covered in a tin. If you use
much coffee it may be worth while to
have a coffee mill. Then you can buy
sugniiy larger quantities or roasted cof
fee beans, heating a few of them s
little In a pan or oven and grinding.
j l. - niuvu i j nccucu xor eacn
meal.
3. Be sure your coffee pot is per
fectly clean emptied and scrubbed
alter eacn brew, do not use a. metal
coffee pot, and if you use granite ware
be sure it is unchipped. An earthen
pitcher makes an excellent coffee pot.
4. Do not soak or boil the coffee un
less you are anxious to have a bitter
taste and as much tannin as possible.
The tannin Is bad for your digestion
and the bitterness overpowers the
more oelicate aroma and flavor.
6. Good cream is at least "half the
battle" In making & good cup of cof
fee. If good cream is not available,
make the coffee atronser and use with
8 5 4 2
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lished forms, taking comfort in the
consciousness that they play a con
ventional and safe, if not a brilliant,
game. - For such players there can be
no better advice than that embodied in
the following:
"Safety First- Sound Policy.
Tn order to "play safe" you must
Know the bids and when to sta.ke them.
Know the leads and when to make them.
Know the tricks and when to take them.
Know the rules and when to break them,
nKow the laws and ne'er forsake them.
Apropos of the laws. I have recently
received the following:
"In a game we were recently playins
an important contest, as It was the
final setting for the season of a series
of games and the question of score
was an important one the adversary
to my right led before the bidding was
completed. Then came the question of
what to do. Two of the players con
tended that there should be a new deal
and this, in fact, was the course we
finally resorted to. One of the players
confessed entire iarnorance in the mat
ter, and I alone insisted that there was
undoubtedly a penalty in connection
with the offense, but whether this was
really so. or what it was. I did not
know. Will you kindly set us right In
the matter and oblige?
"CONSTANT READER."
Quearion Is Answered.
I am very glad this eubject has come
up. as it might not have occurred to me
otherwise to speRk of it, yet I doubt
not there are several who need enlight
enment on the point. I find, in fact, a
laree number, among them professedly
good players, who not only are igno
rant as-to the laws, but apparently look
upon them as so many arbitrary and
useless restrictions which tend to handi
cap the game and are productive of no
real benefit.. Therein they make their
mistake. The laws governing auction
are. if anything, a more important fea
ture of the irarne than the rules gov-
At two tables, however, Z started withlernlng play, and at least should be ac
corded equal consideration ana respect.
Without the laws the game could have
no stable or definite existence: without
them disputes would constantly arise
wfcich it would be Impossible satisfac
torily to settle. As the result ill feeling
would ofen be engendered which
would not always be confined to the
card table, but would often assert Itself
in other walks and departments of life,
sometimes causir.g complete estrange
ment between hitherto good friends.
The laws are the final decision in all
arguments; they are the highest court
of appeal; they are unbreakable, un
wavering, of composite authorship and
universal acceptance. Rules may be
broken, laws may not.
Xow. however, as to the special ques
tion asked: The writer is correct. There
is a penalty attaching- to the act and
by no means a light one. Law 66. the
law governing the case, reads as fol
lows: Law la Quoted.
"After the deal and before the decla
ration has been finally determined, if
any player lead or expose a card, his
partner may not thereafter bid or
double during that declaration, and the
card, if it belong to an adversary of
the eventual declarer, becomes an ex
posed card. When the partner of the
offending player Is the original leader,
the declarer may also prohibit the
Initial lead of the suit of the exposed
card." Law BO has the following to say:
"If a player who has been debarred from
bidding under laws 49. 50, 52 -or 66,
during the period of such prohibition,
make any declaration (other than pass-
) either adversary may decide
whether such declaration stand, and
neither the offending player nor his
partner may further participate in the
bidding even if the adversaries double
or declare."
Offense Is Doable.
As is seen, the one offense, that of
leadingbefore the bidding Is completed,
entails still another, as the card led
becomes an exposed card. This in itself
is subject to penalty. Moreover, as when
the partner of the player who wrong
ly leads turns out to be the real leader
to the hand, he may otherwise lead the
suit of the exposed card to the man!
fest advantage of the side still another
restriction or penalty is added that of
prohibiting this player from leading the
suit. As is.seen, therefore, there are
three penalties attaching to the act.
In many other cases where infringe
ments are made, the aggrieved adver
sary or his partner often can choose
which one of one or more penalties he
may exact. Not so in this case, how
ever. All should be claimed. While at
first thought this may seem arbitrary
and drastic, in reality it is absolutely
necessary for the protection of the aa
versarles and if one would preserve the
strict integrity and honesty of the
game.
At the card table, as in all walks of
life, one will occasionally run up
against really dishonest people play
ers who would not hesitate to resort
to unfair methods if they felt they
could do so with impunity and without
rendering themselves liable to penalties
should they be discovered. Were there
no punishment attaching to their un
fair methods this naturally would at
times give them an undue advantage
over their adversaries, players per
haps who would scorn to do an unfair
or dishonest act, be the temptation ever
so great or the act ever so smalL
In the case of this particular in
fringement the player could easily
claim that he supposed the bidding was
completed. He could easily lead an ace
which could influence his partner, if It
turned out he was the player to lead
to the first trick, to lead the suit did not
the law expressly stipulate he could not
do so. In this manner he could give
his partner an early lead and perhaps
Trick.
6. ..
7...
8...
9. ..
10. . .
11...
12...
13. ..
I A Y B Z
6 3 A 6
4 8 Q 3
2 K 5 4
A 2 10 3"
K 9 2 6
8 As J 6
9 4 Q" K"
3 Q 4 54
74 S 10 K4
? 24 At
9 C4 Q 7
7 5 J 7"
J k 2 10a
Denotes winner of trick.
Z-Y four by cards, or 32 (game), less
simple honors, 16.
Leads Are Discussed.
Trick 1 A correctly leads his fourth
beat club. B winning with ace. and at
Trick 2 returning the queen. Trumped
by Z. who at
Trick 3 puts the dummy In with the
king of spades that the trump lead may
come from the dummy rather than him
self.
Trick 4 Dummy leads the trump, de
clarer finessing the jack, which falls
to A with the ace.
Trick 5 A leads the king of clubs
to give declarer another force. De
clarer trumps and leads at
Trick 6 a second spade, dummy win
ning with ace. and leading at
Trick 7 a second round of trumps,
which declarer wins with king. The
adversaries now being exhausted of
trumps, at
Tricks 8, 9 and 10 declarer has three
rounds of diamonds. At
Trick 11 he leads the spade, which B
wins with queen, and at
Tricks 12 and 13 makes the remain
ing trumps.
In suggesting that this form of bid
ding, which, .as I explained last week.
is being tried out by a number of wel
known eastern players, be experimented
upon by some of our own players, I
wish it to be distinctly understood
that I am in no sense advocating the
bid. or that I feel it will in the long
run prove profitable. Indeed, it is yet
too new and I have had too little ex
perience with it myself to be able to
form any definite opinion concerning
it. That it has some advantages, as
shown by the hand as given, there
can be little doubt, but whether these
advantages are sufficiently great as to
offset its disadvantages (as. for in
stance, when one will be left to play
the bid) remains to be seen. Time and
experience alone will demonstrate.
Experiments Are Danceroiu,
It should be needless to say that
only the best and soundest players,
such as can safely go out of the beaten
track without in any way detracting
from the soundness of their game.
should experiment with the bid. For
all but this class of players there Is
nothing but to stick, closely to estab
OBTRUSIVE COLLAR BONES
MAY BE HELPED BY MASSAGE
Cocoa Butter Faithfully Applied Will do Much to Put on Becoming Layer
of Flesh.
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SOME women have dainty little col
lar bones that never seem to be
obtrusive no matter how thin the
rigure; but usually those ugly little
bones just below the throat show up
first of all when one loses flesh and
are the last bones to become graciously
padded when flesh is taken on. it tne
whole bony structure of the figure is
delicately formed collar bones are not
likely to obtrude themselves conspicu
ously, even when a women is very
slender, but the possessor of big bones,
whether in knuckles, ankles, wrists or
clavicles (otherwise collar bones) has
to subdue these excrescences all ehe
can in order not to look angular.
massage will do much to cover the
collar bones with a becoming layer of
fat and this Ts one place in the figure
where a little fat is always attractive.
Massage every night with the finger
tips, using the cocoa butter generously.
Lemon juice will help to keep tan and
freckles from the neck and before you
go in swimming rub in cold cream and
cover lightly with talcum. A neck with
a dark ring of sunburn below the throat
line is not pretty with an evening
frock! Some women even wear high
necked bathing dresses and, though
these are not very comfortable, the
slight discomfort pays when one has a
lovely throat and shoulders to protect.
Cocoa butter faithfully applied with
admit of his leading up to weakness in
the hand of dummy, to the discomfit
ure of the declarer. On the other hand,
were he, the partner of the offending
player, allowed further participation in
the bidding, he would often be tempted,
especially if himself having fair
strength in the suit though not enough
to justify his calling it for his own
hand, to bid the suit of the exposed
card, the suit in which he knows his
partner to hold that ace. In many ways
which space will not admit of my enu
merating the side committing this par
ticular offense could easily gain a de
cided advantage were it not for the re
strictions debarring them from doing
So and tending to make the game fair
and just for all.
Time Refutes Dr. Osier.
Boston Post.
Marion Harland is 88 years of age
and is just as active as she was when
she was 50. Henry Cabot Lodge, near
ing 70, is like a young man of 40. Ed
ison, at "2, never seems to get old.
Clemenceau, over 80, is at the zenith of
his power. Uncle Joe Cannon is over
83 and is going as hard as ever.
Sllarht Misunderstanding,.
Yonkers Statesman.
Mrs. Flatbush Do you like sandals?
Mrs. Bensonhurst Oh, yes; I love
them.
"Then you do wear them sometimes?"
"Wear 'em? Wear what?"
"Why, sandals."
"Oh, excuse me. I thought you asked
me It I liked scandals."
Linen Lingerie Coming Back
Into Fashion.
Paris
Creations In "Undies"
Exquisitely Beautiful.
Are
INTIMATE linens for milady grew to
be no more than a figure of speech
in recent years, for linens have been so
scarce and hard to get that milady
took to wearing cotton batiste if she
could not afford silk. In years gone
by, garments worn next the skin were
always of fine linen when exclusive
ness of style was a point to be consfid
ered. Beautiful were the hand-woven, hacd
embroidered linen undergarments of
women in the last century and in cen
turies before that; it has only beeji in
later years that cotton or muslin under
garments obtained favor with particu
lar people, and then only because Buce
fabrics were of pleasingly fine, so it
texture. Now linen garments for in
timate wear are coming back into fal
ion perhaps because, war restriction
being over, linen is again obtainable
in quantity for personal use. At any
rate, fashion has taken a notion to fine
linen "undies" and some of the Paris
created lingerie of sheer Irish linen is
exquisitely beautiful as well as about
the coolest, most delightful thing anr
woman could put on. for sultry summer
days-
1