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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 8, 1916)
THE SUNDAY OltEGOXIAN. PORTLAND, OCTOBER 8. 1916. WHITE AND SILVER COSTUMES FOR BALLROOM ALL THE RAGE FOR GIRLS WOMEN OF MANY CLIMES WIN WAY TO, FAME BY VARIETY OF METHODS Marie Peary, "Snow Baby," Is Taking; Lively Interest in Aeronautics American Girl Comes. From Paris "With Distinction of Performing at Opera Comique Mrs. Louis D. Brandeis New Member of Washington Society. Bodice Can Only Be Worn to Advantage by Young Girl With Rounded and Dimpled Arms and Shoulders of Silver Cloth Are Supported by White Ribbon Shoulder Straps. -Folds ' iwwj - - "Tmj I -, - v. K' i $MA : i 1 Om v ' ' - 1 I v i 1 t ' J I fe -si.v - IPd THE new white and silver tfanclns costumes for youni? women are exquisitely lovely like frost un der moonlight. A model by Doucet Is of silver cloth with silver thread em broidery and crystal bead fringe. The bodice in its extreme simplicity could be worn successfully only by a young Firl a slender girl with rounded and dimpled arms and shoulders. The folds of silver cloth, supported by white rib bon shoulder-straps, swathed over a trimly fitting featherbone girdelia foundation, so that the waistline is email and neat. Of that most Impressive material, brocade, and trimmed with somber black fur, the evening wrap pictured is still distinctively youthful and its gay youthfulness Is due to its coquet tish drapery no older woman would dare such a looped-up, bulky effect. The rcse and metal brocade is aston ishingly light and the soft drapery Is charming for slim girlhood. Black fox is lavishly used to make the smart col lar and sleeve trimmings that suggest twin cuffs in their amplitude. When one enters society, one expects to go a-week-ending as part of the social progress, and the fashionable week-end visit demands a very smart negrligee. Sufficiently youthful to mark itself as the debutante's own is this lovely boudoir costume of white georgette and ribbon, the ribbon used in ruffles and in an odd crossed sash on the full, "short ekirt. The little sacque which covers the shoulders and arms is cut all in one piece and is edged with yards of frilled lace. Sashes Among Most Interest ins Pari: of Costume. Couturiers Vie With One Another to Produce Latest Kffecta. SASHES have become most interest in?, and the couturiers arc vieing with each other to produce new and original sash effects. The narrow strap sash knotted at one side, brought out by Jenny early in the season, has out done by many elaborately draped, twisted and tied sash arrangements, the trailing sash with huge butterfly loops resting on the hips in bustle effect which distinguished a Klein dance frock for Autumn, perhaps bear ing the palm as far as sash eccen tricity is concerned. A charming sash makes part of a Fall frock of olive Kreen faille matinee silk with gath ered, paneled skirt and deep cape col lar. Bodice and skirt are silk Stitched in closely set rows, in lemon yellow, the chain stitching being bold and dainty in alternate rows and extending below the hip on the skirt. The ripple cape is lined with lemon yellow satin, and so is the sash which extends around the waist from the front and is tacked to the bodice, the separated ends, about four inches apart, falling over the skirt to a knot below the hips, whence the ends, showing the satin lining, fall al most to the skirt hem. Fashion is insisting more and more on Aloyenage lines, long-waisted, slim, trim effects that show off every curve of the figure, and while frocks fall into these longer, straighter lines, corsets become more and more curved, empha sizing bust and hip in soft, rounded outlines. The Moyenage style has not attacked evening costume. Dance frocks Hare extravagantly with flounces of witchtex stiffening under silken flounces to give the distended ripple effect, and billowy skirts billow out from dainty little bodices that make the waistline trim and. tiny at least evening bodices appear to achieve this effect; one knows, of course, that under the filmy tulles and laces are boned bodices or girdles of featherbone gir delin which produce trim waistedness. Boleros, fringes and garnitures of beads in the strong Indian colorings are used with stunning effect on even ing gowns of black tulle. Pastel tinted beads trim dance frocks of dainty silk. If you can wear an AA width, or even an A width boot this Winter you may count yourself one of fashion's elite. The very slender foot, with long, tsvelte lines, is considered beautiful just now, and pudgy feet, which look best in short vamp footwear, are entirely out of the procession, no matter how bigh and arched the instep may be. The new boots shown, by. high-class : jt x 4 M f J . ' ' i r H ' ' Kjgg - . - ' ? "c shops come in these slim widths, and in sizes 7, 8 and even 9, in addition to regular sizes for women; for length and narrowness are in much better style than shortness combined with breadth. Narrowness one must achieve, even if one's regular boot length is a 4 or 4 and one must resort to a size 8 boot to achieve the proper effect of fashion, yery aristocratic, indeed, are these long, slender boots, with their exquisite ma terial and finished workmanship. Eight or $9 is really quite a modest price to pay for a really smart walking boot, and there are models at $12 and $15, which, once seen fitted on the foot, can not be resisted. Fortunately, this sea son, one may economize on hat trim Answers to Correspondents BY LILIAN TINGLE. PORTLAND, Or., Aug. 18. Kindly tell me how to take iron rust stains from a white skirt. Thanking you, MRS. B. J. M. YOU might try using Javelle water, being very careful to wash the fabric afterwards with plenty of clear water. , Or moisten the stain with a little ammonia (not too strong) and then drop on, cautiously, a solution of oxalic acid crystals. Wash quickly In plenty of clear water after using the oxalic acid or you will have a bole in place ming the Fall chapeau boasts only a feather or bead ornament and put the saving in footwear; for correct foot wear one must have, these days ,of plainly revealed pedal extremities. For walking wear with tailored suits there are buttoned boots of gunmetal gray glazed kid with black cloth tops ultra smart these! Dress boots and dancing boots for the afternoon are also in buttoned style, and come in various harmonious combinations of glazed kid. the dark gray tones being the favorites. Sport shoes in laced style with very low heels and the slen der AAA width, are of , brown glazed kid with punchings and stitchings to give them the sporty style desired. of a stain. This is true also of javelle water. If you do not know how to make the latter, buy a small can of chloride of lime and follow the direc tions on the can. PORTLAND. Or.. Sept. I. Would you please print throuKh tbe Sunday Oregonian a recipe for potato buns. I have eatn them but have no idea how they are made.' T' thank you very much and for the re recipes in the paper weekly. MRS. O. If the recipe given below Is not the one you wanted will you please write again as there are several "small breads'' that are known in different places . as "potato, buns. . .A - few cur rants or chapped raisins might be added to the mixture given below. Potato buns One cup scalded milk, 1 cup freeh hot mashed potatoes, 1 table spoon sugar, 1 compressed yeast cake, about . three cups sifted flour, Vi cup butter, cup sugar, tea spoonful salt. Scald the milk, beat in the potatoes when lukewarm, add the yeast "creamed" with the one table spoon sugar, add lVi cups of flour. Beat until smooth, then add butter and sugar creamed, the rest of the flour or enough to make a moderately soft dough, and salt. Knead lightly, using as little flour in the kneading as pos sible. Cover and set aside in warm place, free from draft, to rise until double in bulk about one and one-half hours. Mould into small, round buns, place in well-greased pans, one inch apart. Cover, set aside to rise until light about one hour. Brush with egg. diluted with water. Bake 20 minutes. Just before removing from the oven, brush with sugar moistened with a little water. PORTLAND, Or.. Sept. S. Would like fll. rertlons for making "library paste." My children like to r"te pictures In scrap books and use a jrobd deal of paste. Thank ing you. -MOTHER." Following is a good recipe for home made paste: Library paste One cup flour, 2 cups water, 1 teaspoon alum, 1 teaspoon glycerine, a few drops oil of winter green. Mix the flour and water to a smooth paste and cook until thick, beating well to avoid lumps and to get all parts evenly cooked. Then beat in the other ingredients and store In srrtall jars. The wintergreen 4s Intended to dlsCourage mould growth. Among my many "Summer" letters (which, owing to illness. I was onable to answer) I fld the following. Many thanks to Mrs. V. D. I hope Mrs. J. L. D. may see it. though late. PORTLAND. Or.. June 23. This Is th doughnut receipa Mrs. J. L D. asked for In the Sundav Oregonlan ot June IS. Sent by Mrs. N. D. Doughnuts One level cup of sugar. 1 level dessertspoon butter. 1 cup sour milk, 2 eggs. 2 level teaspoons cream tartar. Its teaspoons soda. Rub butter thoroughly into sugar, add the eggs, well beaten. If sour milk is lumpy beat thoroughly with egg beater, add the soda, to the sour milk, dissolved In a little hot water. Sift the cream tar tar with the flour and make a thick dough, enough to roll well. Have lard hot enough to see a blue smoke on it and brown nicely before turning over. Have used many recipes, but this is the best I ever used. MILWAUKIE. Or. Havlnr had such a lot of help from your recipes. I would pleas ask you to glvti me one for making cream brick cheese In small quantities, the kind that Is moist and waxy. MRS. E. S. I am unable to give you the informa tion you desire, but perhaps some reader may come to the rescue. Tou can obtain a book on cheese-making from the Public Library, which might give you useful suggestion, but I am unable to identify from your descrip tion the kind of cheese you have In mind. SEASIDE. Or. Will you please straight en out the following recipe, by weight, please: 1 cup brown sugar, w, slice butter. cup chocolate, 1 egg, 1 cup sour cream, 1 teaspoon aoda. 2 cups flour. 1 cup each raisins and nuts. If 1 use sour milk In place of our cream, should I use more but ter? Thanking you, 1 am J. S. One cup of brown sugar weighs about one-half pound. "One-half slice but ter" is exceedingly vague, but I take It to mean about cup or. 2 ounces. 2 cups sifted flour measured after sift ing should weigh one-half pound. The chocolate is too vague as it stands. I should guess about 2 ounces of un sweetened chocolate, but in making chocolate cakes, tasting is an impor tant factor, since different brands of chocolate vary in strength and flavor and so does "personal taste." No salt is given in your recipe. Add 4 teaspoon, or more if your butter is not very salty. Many cakes have a flat, uninteresting flavor owing to the lack of a little salt. "Never use an egg without adding to it a pinch of salt" is a good old "housekeeper's rule" for well flavored cooking. "Always use a pinch of salt with chocolate or cocoa" is another good flavoring maxim. If you use sour milk in place of sour cream you might slightly Increase the amount of butter, but I think, real ly, you will find it fairly good without doing so. WILLAMINA, Or., Sept 16. Will you kindly publish soon a recipe for what la termed a "starter" of yeast used In making light bread and greatly oblige. MRS. S. B. D. Potato Yeast r Starter. Pare four or five large potatoes, cover with cold water to prevent dis coloration. Grate, and stir them as grated, into 2 quarts of water, kept boiling on the stove. Cook 10 min utes after all the potato is in. Stir in cup salt and cup granulated sugar. Let cool to about 68 degrees F. and then stir in 1 pint yeast from a previous making, or, better, 1 cake fresh compressed yeast, or 1 dry yeast cake softened in V cup water. Let stand about 24 hours at a temperature of 68 degrees F., stirring it down whenever it becomes light and frothy. Store in fruit jars in a cool place, fill ing them only half full. Keep one Jar carefully unopened in the coolest place to start the next batch of yeast. In bread-making use cup of liquid yeast to 1 pint liquid, or more if you wish to "hurry" short-process bread. Another way is to boil potatoes in the ordinary way, mashing them in the water in which they were boiled and adding more boiling water to make 2 quarts. After that proceed as above. Some makers boil 1 tablespoon dried hops in a bag with the potatoes; others use a little ginger. These both tend to check undesirable ferments in the mixture. If you have "poor luck" with ycur bread some day, instead of your usual success, your yeast may perhaps be to blame, in which case throw away your old yeast and make some with new "starter" in the form of a fresh yeast cake or a cup of yeast from some successful bread-baker. LYLE, Wash., Aug. 16. Will you pleas print a recipe for cucumber perserves. 1 have never eaten any but have heard of them quite often. Thanking you in advance for your kindness.' MRS. V. O. K. I have plenty of "sweet pickle" cu cumber recipes, but none that could really be described as "cucumber pre serves." Perhaps I may find one later, or some reader may come to my rescue. I think cucumbers could be used in a way exactly similar to citron melon or vegetable marrow for preserves, and I believe I have somewhere an old fashioned recipe -for "ripe cucumber jam," though at the moment I cannot lay my hand on it. The cucumber would be. pared, seeded and sliced, simmered with ginger, sliced lemons or other flavoring mate rials until tender and then boiled until transparent with an equal weight of sugar, LONO BEACH. Wash.. Sept. 26. Will you please tell us how maraschino cherries are done up? They use royal amis, do' they not ? We have a cranberry marsh and aome of the berries are so large and pretty. I have thought they could be done up like these cherries. Maraschino cherries are, I believe, bleached, toughened, dyed and canned with maraschino or imitation maras chino for flavoring, the cherry flavor being eliminated. I do not think cran berries could be used as a substitute, as they would have too strong a flavor of their own which would not har monize with maraschino, and they would not hsve the right consistency or texture. You can, however, make a rather rich preserve (following the ordinary process for strawberries or cherries so often described In these columns) in which the berries can be kept whole and so be used for many decorative purposes, or you might candyethem. If you try a small quan tity, make the experiment of "blanch ing" (or dipping the berries first into boiling and then into cold water) be fore using them like o'her berries. I think, you will find it an advantage. at V at ' r -V "o 'f: l-' V I V 'if I m&:,iT -v -"-- -sTT3! rriHE baby of the family of Secretary , I of War Newton D. Baker Is - ir Ti . . t i i great pet In Cabinet circles. Lit-, tie Margaret Is four years old. m m m Marie Peary, the "Snow Baby," was born in the Arctlo when her father was on one of the Arctic expeditions. She is now grown up and is taking a lively interest at present In aviation, which is absorbing much of the attention of her father. a An American girl has come back to this country to do classic dances. She is Margaret Ladd and she halls from Texas. She claims to be the only Amer- GOLD GLEAMS FROM EVENINC GOWNS DESPITE WARS AND RUMORS OF WAR Velvet Suits Are Bmbellished With Fur Sumptuous Modes of nHERE may be wars and rumors I of was but the debutante comes a- out in December. There may be trouble on the Texas border; there may be plagues to devastate the town; there may be sharks and fogs and the h,lgh cost of living to throw a gloom over the Summer; but none the less arrives the Autumn season and the debutante's great day. By custom and propriety December has been set apart as her particular month; In other words she is properly launched on the social sea in good time for the Important festivi ties of the Winter, for Christmas week affairs, and for Palm Beach gaieties thereafter. Returning from the country late In October, the debutante puts in a busy six weeks, preparing for her prospec tive entry into the social whirl. Even the bride-to-be. purcnasing her trous seau. Is not provided with a more ample wardrobe than that required to outnt a fashionable "bud." and the bud. emerging from her schoolroom chrysal lis is not without thrills at the wonder ful array of new clothes the clothes of womanhood in which she will enter upon a new and charmed existence. Dance Frocks Meat Important. The debutante will spend a consider able part of her waking day and her waking day means from noon till the wee' sma' hours in dancing. A dozen dance frocks at lease, with several de lightful evening wraps must be pro vided; and the mother who has brought out one debutante knows how speedily a lively, wholesome young girl can reduce & dance frock to pieces. There must be morning and afternoon tail leurs. a host of the "little frocks" )hat are so useful for all 'occasions; special frocks for formal affairs, smart top coats for motoring, week-end wear and rainy days In town; furs to match suits and coats; negligees that will pass muster at week-end parties, among other negligees, Paris born; and all the little things that a young woman in society must have many pairs of boots and slippers; silk stockings by the score, petticoats, neckwear, hats, veils, handbags, coiffure ornaments the list Is endless. Debutante Picks Moyrnaate Frocks. Though the little debutante's Win ter outfit costs a great deal of money and is fashioned of the richest materi als, from alert hat to dainty-buttoned walking boots, there are some things she may not wear. Her costumes must express youth, freshness, unsophistlca tion; even the Indispensable black gowns must suggest youthfulness and not dignity or the staid lmpresslveness of the matron. Below her trim little waistline her dance frocks flow out in layers and layers of gauzy tulle and lace; for afternoon wear the Moyenage styles will doubtless be selected. These Moyenage frocks, with their loose, long-waisted line, are essentially youthful in suggestion, and though older women take to them because of this very youthfulness of line, they be come best, slender, undeveloped figures and are most delightful on the petite maid. Of olive and old gold plaid taf feta, and plain old gold soiree silk is a Moyenage frock for the afternoon. The pleated skirt of plaid material Is attached by a corded seam to a long waisted bodice of tolree silk and at NT r ?sm r - 111! ...: 1 I II St I r Y . - - r-V-rT-" . S It W-ffvVfc-aC. I I . v -II lean who ever danced t the Opera Comique In Paris. She has been danc ing there for five years. A newcomer In Washington society Is Mrs. Louis D. Brandeis. wife of the new Supreme Court Justice. She was Alice Goldmark. of New York, when she mar ried Mr. Brandeis In 1891. She has been a visitor in Washington before and la familiar with Its social life. Jean Bonnefond, a well-known French writer, has discovered ex-Queen Natalia of Servla scrubbing floors In a hospital in France. She gave- up her palace to Red Cross work at the begin ning of the war and said she was going to devote herself to working for hu- I for Afternoon Wear Moyenage Styles Admirable for Girlish Season Are Chastened for Wear by Society's Debutantes. the natural waistline there Is a loosely draped sash of dull gold braid with two tassels at the front. The sleeves are of old gold georgette and a deep collar of cream mousseline, stitched with gold-colored silk finishes the neck. Very youthful, this dainty frockJ tor a debutante; and equally youthful and dainty Is a Moyenage frock of soldier blue serge the very dark blue of the French uniform In combination with gray chiffon laid over steel blue silk and rows of silk stitching In silver gray thread. The frock has straight lines from neck to hem at back and front, its chasuble panels drawn In slightly at a low waistline by a double girdle of fine steel beads. The sleeves areof gray chiffon over steel blue chif fon, and panels of the gray and steel blue shade extend from the armhole to low on the hip, the long opening being denned by gray silk stitching on the serge which slightly overlaps the pan els. This frock, exhibited at a recent opening, was accompanied by buttoned boots of black and gray glazed kid. and by a smart black silk beaver tricorne with an ornament of blue beads. Brown is the ultra smart color this Fall and the debutante will certainly have two or three costumes in the new brown shades touched with gold. The correct brown may be coffee or choco late In tone, and there are bronze shades and browns verging on old gold. Sealskin is a favored trimming for the brown tailleur of velvet or cloth; beaver Is the debutante's own fur of course, but this season even young girls nave taken to sealskin. The de butante adores the soft fluffiness of fox but her silver fox and rose fox fur sets will accompany tallleurs of gray, blue or dark green; brown cos tumes demand brown or tawny pelts. With the brown tailleur also, one must have brown boots this year buttoned walking boots of the new tobasco-col-ored glazed kid for street wear, or laced boots with perforated and stitched trimming for skating or coun try wear. And speaking of country wear, one Is reminded of the very good-looking coats and costumes of pontine, a new reversible fabric Inspired by the French clre or waxed fabrics which have taken the world by storm. Pontine Is very new, yet. and ultra exclusive, and Is the smartest thing known for a town and country suit or a late Au tumn motor coat. Skating coats of pontine with fur-trimming are ready for colder days. One of thestunning coats of the early Autumn is of dark gray pontine with the reverse side of steel blue velours showing at cuff and collar. Evening Gowns Gleans With Gold. Silver was the thing for dance frocki last season; now It Is gold, starting with Klein's wonderful dance frock of gold tissue and lace which caused a sensation at the Paris openings two months ago. There will be a savage opulence of suggestion about the Win ter's ballroom with all the gleaming, glinting, golden gowns that are being turned out now. Oold laces, gold tis sues, gold-embroidered nets and chif-l fons, gold thread brocades with splen did colors as a background for gor geous gold figures; these are the ma terials that are going Into Winter evening gowns and the debutante is eeixinu her share of sold alao, -In dance '' iff - ..' - , V- manity. Sbe concealed her Identity un til Bonnefond recognized her. The Baroness Pallandt. an American girl of poor family who married an Knglish title, has been in the public eye In several sensational matters. She is being sued for tlvO.000 by Miss Shaver, formerly of Pittsburg. Lines. frocks of white tulle and gold lace, of black tulle and gold roses, of gold brocaded chiffon draped over hoops of featherbone and imposed on petticoats of tulln and gold lace. RASH CAUSED PAIN Skin Very Sore and Inflamed. Could Not Sleep and Would Scratch the Eruptions. HEALED BYCUTICURA SOAP AND OINTMENT "My trouble began by using cement and the lids of my eyes were sore and also my arms which caused me much pain. 1 he appearance nrst was a rash and the skin was very sore and inflamed. I could not sleep because of the itch ing and burning and I would scratch and then the eruptions bled. "The trouble lasted six months and then I tried Cuticura Soap and Ointment and one full-sized cake of Soap and one full sized box of Ointment healed me." (Signed) William T. Elkins, 472-6th Ave., Salt Lake City, Utah, Jan. 8. '16. Sample Each Free by Mall With 32-p. Skin Book on request. Ad dress post-card: "Cuticura, Dept. T, Boston." Sold throughout the world. To Improve Expression as Well as Complexion No face ts really beautiful that lacka ex. precaion. lx you realize that continual ue of powders and cream tends to apoll pliancy of skin and elasticity of expres sion T Wny not quit cosmetics, use some thine better, which won't clo th pores or make the akin dry. pasty or oily ? Ordinary mercojlsed wax acta quite dif ferently from any cosmetic It wonder fully Improve! any complexion. cU'ln: it life and expression. liy gradually, harm lessly peellns off the thin veil of surface skin. It brlni.a to view a pure, soft, spot less complexion delicately beautiful and youthfuL Every druggist has this wax: It Is seldom more than an ounce is needrs. It ts spread on nlshtly like cold cream and wasLed off mornings. In a week or two the transformation ts complete. Wrinkles d not. of course, enhance the expression. Neither do the pasty thlnrs many use to eradicate them. A treat ment free from all objection la mad by dissolving an ounce wf powdered saxoUte In a half pint of witch hazel; use as a w ash lotion. This soon removes a-ven thw most obaUoale wriolue. Auv. ITCHING BURNING a sv c vi ft