THE SUNDAY OltEGOXIAN. PORTLAND, OCTOBER 8. 1916.
WHITE AND SILVER COSTUMES FOR
BALLROOM ALL THE RAGE FOR GIRLS
WOMEN OF MANY CLIMES WIN WAY
TO, FAME BY VARIETY OF METHODS
Marie Peary, "Snow Baby," Is Taking; Lively Interest in Aeronautics American Girl Comes. From Paris "With
Distinction of Performing at Opera Comique Mrs. Louis D. Brandeis New Member of Washington Society.
Bodice Can Only Be Worn to Advantage by Young Girl With Rounded and Dimpled Arms and Shoulders
of Silver Cloth Are Supported by White Ribbon Shoulder Straps.
-Folds
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THE new white and silver tfanclns
costumes for youni? women are
exquisitely lovely like frost un
der moonlight. A model by Doucet Is
of silver cloth with silver thread em
broidery and crystal bead fringe. The
bodice in its extreme simplicity could
be worn successfully only by a young
Firl a slender girl with rounded and
dimpled arms and shoulders. The folds
of silver cloth, supported by white rib
bon shoulder-straps, swathed over a
trimly fitting featherbone girdelia
foundation, so that the waistline is
email and neat.
Of that most Impressive material,
brocade, and trimmed with somber
black fur, the evening wrap pictured
is still distinctively youthful and its
gay youthfulness Is due to its coquet
tish drapery no older woman would
dare such a looped-up, bulky effect.
The rcse and metal brocade is aston
ishingly light and the soft drapery Is
charming for slim girlhood. Black fox
is lavishly used to make the smart col
lar and sleeve trimmings that suggest
twin cuffs in their amplitude.
When one enters society, one expects
to go a-week-ending as part of the
social progress, and the fashionable
week-end visit demands a very smart
negrligee. Sufficiently youthful to
mark itself as the debutante's own is
this lovely boudoir costume of white
georgette and ribbon, the ribbon used
in ruffles and in an odd crossed sash
on the full, "short ekirt. The little
sacque which covers the shoulders and
arms is cut all in one piece and is
edged with yards of frilled lace.
Sashes Among Most Interest
ins Pari: of Costume.
Couturiers Vie With One Another to
Produce Latest Kffecta.
SASHES have become most interest
in?, and the couturiers arc vieing
with each other to produce new and
original sash effects. The narrow strap
sash knotted at one side, brought out
by Jenny early in the season, has out
done by many elaborately draped,
twisted and tied sash arrangements,
the trailing sash with huge butterfly
loops resting on the hips in bustle
effect which distinguished a Klein
dance frock for Autumn, perhaps bear
ing the palm as far as sash eccen
tricity is concerned. A charming sash
makes part of a Fall frock of olive
Kreen faille matinee silk with gath
ered, paneled skirt and deep cape col
lar. Bodice and skirt are silk Stitched
in closely set rows, in lemon yellow,
the chain stitching being bold and
dainty in alternate rows and extending
below the hip on the skirt. The ripple
cape is lined with lemon yellow satin,
and so is the sash which extends around
the waist from the front and is tacked
to the bodice, the separated ends, about
four inches apart, falling over the skirt
to a knot below the hips, whence the
ends, showing the satin lining, fall al
most to the skirt hem.
Fashion is insisting more and more
on Aloyenage lines, long-waisted, slim,
trim effects that show off every curve
of the figure, and while frocks fall into
these longer, straighter lines, corsets
become more and more curved, empha
sizing bust and hip in soft, rounded
outlines. The Moyenage style has not
attacked evening costume. Dance
frocks Hare extravagantly with flounces
of witchtex stiffening under silken
flounces to give the distended ripple
effect, and billowy skirts billow out
from dainty little bodices that make
the waistline trim and. tiny at least
evening bodices appear to achieve this
effect; one knows, of course, that under
the filmy tulles and laces are boned
bodices or girdles of featherbone gir
delin which produce trim waistedness.
Boleros, fringes and garnitures of
beads in the strong Indian colorings
are used with stunning effect on even
ing gowns of black tulle. Pastel tinted
beads trim dance frocks of dainty silk.
If you can wear an AA width, or
even an A width boot this Winter you
may count yourself one of fashion's
elite. The very slender foot, with long,
tsvelte lines, is considered beautiful just
now, and pudgy feet, which look best
in short vamp footwear, are entirely
out of the procession, no matter how
bigh and arched the instep may be.
The new boots shown, by. high-class
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shops come in these slim widths, and
in sizes 7, 8 and even 9, in addition to
regular sizes for women; for length and
narrowness are in much better style
than shortness combined with breadth.
Narrowness one must achieve, even if
one's regular boot length is a 4 or 4
and one must resort to a size 8 boot
to achieve the proper effect of fashion,
yery aristocratic, indeed, are these long,
slender boots, with their exquisite ma
terial and finished workmanship. Eight
or $9 is really quite a modest price to
pay for a really smart walking boot,
and there are models at $12 and $15,
which, once seen fitted on the foot, can
not be resisted. Fortunately, this sea
son, one may economize on hat trim
Answers to Correspondents
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
PORTLAND, Or., Aug. 18. Kindly tell
me how to take iron rust stains from a
white skirt. Thanking you,
MRS. B. J. M.
YOU might try using Javelle water,
being very careful to wash the
fabric afterwards with plenty of
clear water. ,
Or moisten the stain with a little
ammonia (not too strong) and then
drop on, cautiously, a solution of oxalic
acid crystals. Wash quickly In plenty
of clear water after using the oxalic
acid or you will have a bole in place
ming the Fall chapeau boasts only a
feather or bead ornament and put the
saving in footwear; for correct foot
wear one must have, these days ,of
plainly revealed pedal extremities.
For walking wear with tailored suits
there are buttoned boots of gunmetal
gray glazed kid with black cloth tops
ultra smart these! Dress boots and
dancing boots for the afternoon are
also in buttoned style, and come in
various harmonious combinations of
glazed kid. the dark gray tones being
the favorites. Sport shoes in laced
style with very low heels and the slen
der AAA width, are of , brown glazed
kid with punchings and stitchings to
give them the sporty style desired.
of a stain. This is true also of javelle
water. If you do not know how to
make the latter, buy a small can of
chloride of lime and follow the direc
tions on the can.
PORTLAND. Or.. Sept. I. Would you
please print throuKh tbe Sunday Oregonian
a recipe for potato buns. I have eatn
them but have no idea how they are made.'
T' thank you very much and for the re
recipes in the paper weekly. MRS. O.
If the recipe given below Is not the
one you wanted will you please write
again as there are several "small
breads'' that are known in different
places . as "potato, buns. . .A - few cur
rants or chapped raisins might be added
to the mixture given below.
Potato buns One cup scalded milk,
1 cup freeh hot mashed potatoes, 1 table
spoon sugar, 1 compressed yeast cake,
about . three cups sifted flour, Vi
cup butter, cup sugar, tea
spoonful salt. Scald the milk, beat
in the potatoes when lukewarm, add
the yeast "creamed" with the one table
spoon sugar, add lVi cups of flour.
Beat until smooth, then add butter and
sugar creamed, the rest of the flour or
enough to make a moderately soft
dough, and salt. Knead lightly, using
as little flour in the kneading as pos
sible. Cover and set aside in warm
place, free from draft, to rise until
double in bulk about one and one-half
hours. Mould into small, round buns,
place in well-greased pans, one inch
apart. Cover, set aside to rise until
light about one hour. Brush with egg.
diluted with water. Bake 20 minutes.
Just before removing from the oven,
brush with sugar moistened with a
little water.
PORTLAND, Or.. Sept. S. Would like fll.
rertlons for making "library paste." My
children like to r"te pictures In scrap
books and use a jrobd deal of paste. Thank
ing you. -MOTHER."
Following is a good recipe for home
made paste:
Library paste One cup flour, 2 cups
water, 1 teaspoon alum, 1 teaspoon
glycerine, a few drops oil of winter
green. Mix the flour and water to a
smooth paste and cook until thick,
beating well to avoid lumps and to get
all parts evenly cooked. Then beat in
the other ingredients and store In srrtall
jars. The wintergreen 4s Intended to
dlsCourage mould growth.
Among my many "Summer" letters
(which, owing to illness. I was onable
to answer) I fld the following. Many
thanks to Mrs. V. D. I hope Mrs. J.
L. D. may see it. though late.
PORTLAND. Or.. June 23. This Is th
doughnut receipa Mrs. J. L D. asked for In
the Sundav Oregonlan ot June IS. Sent by
Mrs. N. D.
Doughnuts One level cup of sugar. 1
level dessertspoon butter. 1 cup sour
milk, 2 eggs. 2 level teaspoons cream
tartar. Its teaspoons soda. Rub butter
thoroughly into sugar, add the eggs,
well beaten. If sour milk is lumpy
beat thoroughly with egg beater, add
the soda, to the sour milk, dissolved In
a little hot water. Sift the cream tar
tar with the flour and make a thick
dough, enough to roll well. Have lard
hot enough to see a blue smoke on it
and brown nicely before turning over.
Have used many recipes, but this is the
best I ever used.
MILWAUKIE. Or. Havlnr had such a
lot of help from your recipes. I would
pleas ask you to glvti me one for making
cream brick cheese In small quantities, the
kind that Is moist and waxy. MRS. E. S.
I am unable to give you the informa
tion you desire, but perhaps some
reader may come to the rescue. Tou
can obtain a book on cheese-making
from the Public Library, which might
give you useful suggestion, but I am
unable to identify from your descrip
tion the kind of cheese you have In
mind.
SEASIDE. Or. Will you please straight
en out the following recipe, by weight,
please: 1 cup brown sugar, w, slice butter.
cup chocolate, 1 egg, 1 cup sour cream,
1 teaspoon aoda. 2 cups flour. 1 cup each
raisins and nuts. If 1 use sour milk In
place of our cream, should I use more but
ter? Thanking you, 1 am J. S.
One cup of brown sugar weighs about
one-half pound. "One-half slice but
ter" is exceedingly vague, but I take It
to mean about cup or. 2 ounces. 2
cups sifted flour measured after sift
ing should weigh one-half pound. The
chocolate is too vague as it stands. I
should guess about 2 ounces of un
sweetened chocolate, but in making
chocolate cakes, tasting is an impor
tant factor, since different brands of
chocolate vary in strength and flavor
and so does "personal taste."
No salt is given in your recipe. Add
4 teaspoon, or more if your butter is
not very salty. Many cakes have a
flat, uninteresting flavor owing to the
lack of a little salt. "Never use an
egg without adding to it a pinch of
salt" is a good old "housekeeper's rule"
for well flavored cooking. "Always use
a pinch of salt with chocolate or cocoa"
is another good flavoring maxim.
If you use sour milk in place of
sour cream you might slightly Increase
the amount of butter, but I think, real
ly, you will find it fairly good without
doing so.
WILLAMINA, Or., Sept 16. Will you
kindly publish soon a recipe for what la
termed a "starter" of yeast used In making
light bread and greatly oblige.
MRS. S. B. D.
Potato Yeast r Starter.
Pare four or five large potatoes,
cover with cold water to prevent dis
coloration. Grate, and stir them as
grated, into 2 quarts of water, kept
boiling on the stove. Cook 10 min
utes after all the potato is in. Stir
in cup salt and cup granulated
sugar. Let cool to about 68 degrees F.
and then stir in 1 pint yeast from a
previous making, or, better, 1 cake
fresh compressed yeast, or 1 dry yeast
cake softened in V cup water. Let
stand about 24 hours at a temperature
of 68 degrees F., stirring it down
whenever it becomes light and frothy.
Store in fruit jars in a cool place, fill
ing them only half full. Keep one Jar
carefully unopened in the coolest place
to start the next batch of yeast. In
bread-making use cup of liquid
yeast to 1 pint liquid, or more if you
wish to "hurry" short-process bread.
Another way is to boil potatoes in
the ordinary way, mashing them in the
water in which they were boiled and
adding more boiling water to make 2
quarts. After that proceed as above.
Some makers boil 1 tablespoon dried
hops in a bag with the potatoes; others
use a little ginger. These both tend
to check undesirable ferments in the
mixture. If you have "poor luck" with
ycur bread some day, instead of your
usual success, your yeast may perhaps
be to blame, in which case throw away
your old yeast and make some with
new "starter" in the form of a fresh
yeast cake or a cup of yeast from some
successful bread-baker.
LYLE, Wash., Aug. 16. Will you pleas
print a recipe for cucumber perserves. 1
have never eaten any but have heard of
them quite often. Thanking you in advance
for your kindness.' MRS. V. O. K.
I have plenty of "sweet pickle" cu
cumber recipes, but none that could
really be described as "cucumber pre
serves." Perhaps I may find one later,
or some reader may come to my rescue.
I think cucumbers could be used in
a way exactly similar to citron melon
or vegetable marrow for preserves, and
I believe I have somewhere an old
fashioned recipe -for "ripe cucumber
jam," though at the moment I cannot
lay my hand on it.
The cucumber would be. pared, seeded
and sliced, simmered with ginger,
sliced lemons or other flavoring mate
rials until tender and then boiled until
transparent with an equal weight of
sugar,
LONO BEACH. Wash.. Sept. 26. Will you
please tell us how maraschino cherries are
done up? They use royal amis, do' they
not ? We have a cranberry marsh and aome
of the berries are so large and pretty. I
have thought they could be done up like
these cherries.
Maraschino cherries are, I believe,
bleached, toughened, dyed and canned
with maraschino or imitation maras
chino for flavoring, the cherry flavor
being eliminated. I do not think cran
berries could be used as a substitute,
as they would have too strong a flavor
of their own which would not har
monize with maraschino, and they
would not hsve the right consistency
or texture. You can, however, make
a rather rich preserve (following the
ordinary process for strawberries or
cherries so often described In these
columns) in which the berries can be
kept whole and so be used for many
decorative purposes, or you might
candyethem. If you try a small quan
tity, make the experiment of "blanch
ing" (or dipping the berries first into
boiling and then into cold water) be
fore using them like o'her berries. I
think, you will find it an advantage.
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rriHE baby of the family of Secretary ,
I of War Newton D. Baker Is
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great pet In Cabinet circles. Lit-,
tie Margaret Is four years old.
m m m
Marie Peary, the "Snow Baby," was
born in the Arctlo when her father was
on one of the Arctic expeditions. She
is now grown up and is taking a lively
interest at present In aviation, which is
absorbing much of the attention of her
father.
a
An American girl has come back to
this country to do classic dances. She
is Margaret Ladd and she halls from
Texas. She claims to be the only Amer-
GOLD GLEAMS FROM EVENINC GOWNS
DESPITE WARS AND RUMORS OF WAR
Velvet Suits Are Bmbellished With Fur
Sumptuous Modes of
nHERE may be wars and rumors
I of was but the debutante comes
a- out in December. There may be
trouble on the Texas border; there may
be plagues to devastate the town; there
may be sharks and fogs and the h,lgh
cost of living to throw a gloom over
the Summer; but none the less arrives
the Autumn season and the debutante's
great day. By custom and propriety
December has been set apart as her
particular month; In other words she
is properly launched on the social sea
in good time for the Important festivi
ties of the Winter, for Christmas week
affairs, and for Palm Beach gaieties
thereafter.
Returning from the country late In
October, the debutante puts in a busy
six weeks, preparing for her prospec
tive entry into the social whirl. Even
the bride-to-be. purcnasing her trous
seau. Is not provided with a more ample
wardrobe than that required to outnt
a fashionable "bud." and the bud.
emerging from her schoolroom chrysal
lis is not without thrills at the wonder
ful array of new clothes the clothes
of womanhood in which she will enter
upon a new and charmed existence.
Dance Frocks Meat Important.
The debutante will spend a consider
able part of her waking day and her
waking day means from noon till the
wee' sma' hours in dancing. A dozen
dance frocks at lease, with several de
lightful evening wraps must be pro
vided; and the mother who has brought
out one debutante knows how speedily
a lively, wholesome young girl can
reduce & dance frock to pieces. There
must be morning and afternoon tail
leurs. a host of the "little frocks" )hat
are so useful for all 'occasions; special
frocks for formal affairs, smart top
coats for motoring, week-end wear and
rainy days In town; furs to match suits
and coats; negligees that will pass
muster at week-end parties, among
other negligees, Paris born; and all the
little things that a young woman in
society must have many pairs of boots
and slippers; silk stockings by the
score, petticoats, neckwear, hats, veils,
handbags, coiffure ornaments the list
Is endless.
Debutante Picks Moyrnaate Frocks.
Though the little debutante's Win
ter outfit costs a great deal of money
and is fashioned of the richest materi
als, from alert hat to dainty-buttoned
walking boots, there are some things
she may not wear. Her costumes must
express youth, freshness, unsophistlca
tion; even the Indispensable black
gowns must suggest youthfulness and
not dignity or the staid lmpresslveness
of the matron. Below her trim little
waistline her dance frocks flow out in
layers and layers of gauzy tulle and
lace; for afternoon wear the Moyenage
styles will doubtless be selected. These
Moyenage frocks, with their loose,
long-waisted line, are essentially
youthful in suggestion, and though
older women take to them because of
this very youthfulness of line, they be
come best, slender, undeveloped figures
and are most delightful on the petite
maid. Of olive and old gold plaid taf
feta, and plain old gold soiree silk is
a Moyenage frock for the afternoon.
The pleated skirt of plaid material Is
attached by a corded seam to a long
waisted bodice of tolree silk and at
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lean who ever danced
t the Opera
Comique In Paris. She has been danc
ing there for five years.
A newcomer In Washington society Is
Mrs. Louis D. Brandeis. wife of the new
Supreme Court Justice. She was Alice
Goldmark. of New York, when she mar
ried Mr. Brandeis In 1891. She has been
a visitor in Washington before and la
familiar with Its social life.
Jean Bonnefond, a well-known
French writer, has discovered ex-Queen
Natalia of Servla scrubbing floors In a
hospital in France. She gave- up her
palace to Red Cross work at the begin
ning of the war and said she was going
to devote herself to working for hu-
I
for Afternoon Wear Moyenage Styles Admirable for Girlish
Season Are Chastened for Wear by Society's Debutantes.
the natural waistline there Is a loosely
draped sash of dull gold braid with
two tassels at the front. The sleeves
are of old gold georgette and a deep
collar of cream mousseline, stitched
with gold-colored silk finishes the
neck. Very youthful, this dainty frockJ
tor a debutante; and equally youthful
and dainty Is a Moyenage frock of
soldier blue serge the very dark blue
of the French uniform In combination
with gray chiffon laid over steel blue
silk and rows of silk stitching In silver
gray thread. The frock has straight
lines from neck to hem at back and
front, its chasuble panels drawn In
slightly at a low waistline by a double
girdle of fine steel beads. The sleeves
areof gray chiffon over steel blue chif
fon, and panels of the gray and steel
blue shade extend from the armhole to
low on the hip, the long opening being
denned by gray silk stitching on the
serge which slightly overlaps the pan
els. This frock, exhibited at a recent
opening, was accompanied by buttoned
boots of black and gray glazed kid. and
by a smart black silk beaver tricorne
with an ornament of blue beads.
Brown is the ultra smart color this
Fall and the debutante will certainly
have two or three costumes in the new
brown shades touched with gold. The
correct brown may be coffee or choco
late In tone, and there are bronze
shades and browns verging on old
gold. Sealskin is a favored trimming
for the brown tailleur of velvet or
cloth; beaver Is the debutante's own fur
of course, but this season even young
girls nave taken to sealskin. The de
butante adores the soft fluffiness of
fox but her silver fox and rose fox
fur sets will accompany tallleurs of
gray, blue or dark green; brown cos
tumes demand brown or tawny pelts.
With the brown tailleur also, one must
have brown boots this year buttoned
walking boots of the new tobasco-col-ored
glazed kid for street wear, or
laced boots with perforated and
stitched trimming for skating or coun
try wear.
And speaking of country wear, one
Is reminded of the very good-looking
coats and costumes of pontine, a new
reversible fabric Inspired by the French
clre or waxed fabrics which have
taken the world by storm. Pontine Is
very new, yet. and ultra exclusive, and
Is the smartest thing known for a
town and country suit or a late Au
tumn motor coat. Skating coats of
pontine with fur-trimming are ready
for colder days. One of thestunning
coats of the early Autumn is of dark
gray pontine with the reverse side of
steel blue velours showing at cuff and
collar.
Evening Gowns Gleans With Gold.
Silver was the thing for dance frocki
last season; now It Is gold, starting
with Klein's wonderful dance frock
of gold tissue and lace which caused a
sensation at the Paris openings two
months ago. There will be a savage
opulence of suggestion about the Win
ter's ballroom with all the gleaming,
glinting, golden gowns that are being
turned out now. Oold laces, gold tis
sues, gold-embroidered nets and chif-l
fons, gold thread brocades with splen
did colors as a background for gor
geous gold figures; these are the ma
terials that are going Into Winter
evening gowns and the debutante is
eeixinu her share of sold alao, -In dance
'' iff - ..' - , V-
manity. Sbe concealed her Identity un
til Bonnefond recognized her.
The Baroness Pallandt. an American
girl of poor family who married an
Knglish title, has been in the public eye
In several sensational matters. She is
being sued for tlvO.000 by Miss Shaver,
formerly of Pittsburg.
Lines.
frocks of white tulle and gold lace, of
black tulle and gold roses, of gold
brocaded chiffon draped over hoops of
featherbone and imposed on petticoats
of tulln and gold lace.
RASH CAUSED PAIN
Skin Very Sore and Inflamed. Could
Not Sleep and Would Scratch
the Eruptions.
HEALED BYCUTICURA
SOAP AND OINTMENT
"My trouble began by using cement
and the lids of my eyes were sore and
also my arms which caused me much
pain. 1 he appearance
nrst was a rash and the
skin was very sore and
inflamed. I could not
sleep because of the itch
ing and burning and I
would scratch and then
the eruptions bled.
"The trouble lasted six
months and then I tried
Cuticura Soap and Ointment and one
full-sized cake of Soap and one full
sized box of Ointment healed me."
(Signed) William T. Elkins, 472-6th
Ave., Salt Lake City, Utah, Jan. 8. '16.
Sample Each Free by Mall
With 32-p. Skin Book on request. Ad
dress post-card: "Cuticura, Dept. T,
Boston." Sold throughout the world.
To Improve Expression
as Well as Complexion
No face ts really beautiful that lacka ex.
precaion. lx you realize that continual
ue of powders and cream tends to apoll
pliancy of skin and elasticity of expres
sion T Wny not quit cosmetics, use some
thine better, which won't clo th pores
or make the akin dry. pasty or oily ?
Ordinary mercojlsed wax acta quite dif
ferently from any cosmetic It wonder
fully Improve! any complexion. cU'ln: it
life and expression. liy gradually, harm
lessly peellns off the thin veil of surface
skin. It brlni.a to view a pure, soft, spot
less complexion delicately beautiful and
youthfuL Every druggist has this wax:
It Is seldom more than an ounce is needrs.
It ts spread on nlshtly like cold cream
and wasLed off mornings. In a week or
two the transformation ts complete.
Wrinkles d not. of course, enhance the
expression. Neither do the pasty thlnrs
many use to eradicate them. A treat
ment free from all objection la mad by
dissolving an ounce wf powdered saxoUte
In a half pint of witch hazel; use as a
w ash lotion. This soon removes a-ven thw
most obaUoale wriolue. Auv.
ITCHING BURNING
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