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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 13, 1916)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXTAX, TORTLAXD, rEBRUAIt Y 13. 19 1G. WOMEN'S ACTIVITIES OF INTEREST TO LARGE PART OF READING PUBLIC Mr. Itirto. I rnh Hjfk Frasa Naraiag Wounded In Franc Add Blood Has Hair Insured for $50.000 Con sueU. lhihe of Marlborough. Visit New York Mr. Wynne Decorated by French and Belgian. ' ..;.V.- . I : . vv,f" f , " v: . t y - y . - .. - VMV ; , yy X i 5 ' I AX' x . - vH A 'A I h :. i My ... '. t - a-K. BRTOV rilKN' ll. t Io of XfX aba in tit dlitmtlc r. K. hj r;irti-vl from rranr. hh ha bi fijriric tn ounUU !n 'rrj.- n. f:r a horl rt btr ill rluro t9 llial work. A.iU IUoo- htr an oonr of h'r QUITE SPRIGHTLY AND YOUTHFUL IS LITTLE TAILLEUR OF SPRING Dot CoaU to Witlin Show Car WaiatcoaU Beneath Silks Are Combined With Sr Goth and Mohair Mix lurr Taaael. Cordinja. Tuck and Buttons in Profusion Lend Gaiety to New Suits. DO NOT imlDt. friand hoprr. on tha luvkout fur )ur -rlnc suit; do Cut tint n for a mnoi'"! Ihal uu ara tirt ; to rl" tn mind of all ra.p. i :i Mi it liy h purvhaa ol o ;ri: t.i;a.r. T. i 'rm you ara f lua to nt lo sj". a for- r . . . v ..r I of mdrl for "oara alna.' kikdf in4l f- "ral knotkuooull a-. .1 ahopplri trt thrrnc lh dapari- anavl rha. naw latlural wear la a, win -. ttlv ahow iol that hiMta4 w! n ranot nai.ibit a t ! mttUoUt botH of th prin aty laa. Kr h ra..v lalt aur ill b to- diritr an af fair f.ir travalma and yr and tha amart sport ult will no! b ami amtrt enouah for a mallnea or aftarn.n ta, or tuneneoa at a modua tsatauraat. itwrf ! Haa rawkeia, Tha aleaj manual of th irt suit am to b l p.-'kat. tia or two pocket tiva rhriir and srooj aiyla lo m aporl tlll'r. four to t pocket aAAB.r it a-.tram.lv knowioc and rbtc. Th" sk'rta of both sport ar-d formal taillaur ar mu'h alike, cut In circu lar or clrcu!ar. r- atria with ldth of from thra. to fiv yarda at tr-e ham. and Ih ham turned 9 anru-ly that tha bo'toned aalkln boot la wait ,.,,1,. fl.jl atharaaa tha .port tall aUe aaa lha amartfr atit aktrl to aaak for It.etf. th clraa.v tatllaur often anh-l!ihea thi skirt wltn apron Iraparv. lunli: of on aort or another. ar t aio an flounca-a. I are- -. . add a eonfraatlna niat'rlal p -.it. ip i.ri or broad- usually rlath or mohair an! moroted fabric: and ary amount of erl.htlr trlnimina. l-t th av of l"'l"". piplna. crd- Ina-. .al ar bucklaa 1- it ri t ntiralv of allk a piea.ins; im.- 'II from iwonrii.. comMnlna a r'ai-va4 aktrt of etrirod Pv willow taffata with a lit - rnal of i!ali-col-(4 taiUUk Bvifl wt aai skirl ara la worm a joriur. rn n in m. . vunilva Irriwfl In I ho WorliL H'C'nlV ly bod hor hair lnurl tr a promt r.onl nrr for !. lho I'd lo ! thla Ihrouch a curlom arrlrivnl anth almoai r-u'tJ In lh lo of hr "rrox nlr. rlorjr" lo njr nothin cf hr lifo or oaiy. To uni!-rtanj th Vrlr " ' " arir lo know that hr hair h aliroal lo hrr kocra anl that alio ha n pl.turl In tit ni)"riljr of th .run m Tna !)!' a Ty." In whtth film h la)a a Irajmc part. wrarln hr hair In a fioolne n.anr.r. Iurlr lha ir:on of play. " of ! xanr la al a rrcmtlot). In ttil arrna ah la riair4 ti t :rn h-r back l tha turrcr. Tha draucht draw a atrand of br tra !nio la rloln opan ifi. It raashl fr. Had It r.ot bn f.r ta uUk wtt of Ifarrtnton Moraa. on of th para In tn play. It U horrib to tunltnipUt tha fata of M lllvod. a a iJlllan It. Ilyda. a f.imou olf playvr. la to l riarrl.-J. liar ramher trimmed .vl-hly with nirroa alde Plaatmc nia.!e of ribbon. Th akirt ha two flounce of ne atrlped silk, the tripe runntnc around Instead of up and doatn. and each flounce la odsre-i with the riMwit plaatinc Tha coal, ba.ird In at the waiatline. fall a few Inchea over the hip In a salhered pep lum vhich la aded wlto the ribbon pleatlne. A deep, circular cap fall from a acalloped ;oka to th walatilne. covarinc th back of lha coal and part of It1 alaeve. ,t the front are revars .di.d with th ribbon fleatln- and a collar of the atrlpad silk, also aJgt3 with th ritbon. . l aar r of Tall-red Wear. N'othins slvaa quit uch a ll-ab-avlutrly-new evpreajlon lo a tailored suit a a cap motif of aoma kind. Capaa ar any lancth and. all lrntha. Some of them ar little more than col lar cul a Ml d-epcr: oilier reach lo th walatilne. Tha cape may sro all around or part way around, or b set In lain effect over each aloeve a fa-Mon remtnlacenl of the "To. Th mo. t "r riprlna auit that haa yet appeared la from iarnrd. and la made of licht tan broadcloth In what la railed th multiple cap effect. Thi effect, however, occur only at' th back and aide. Th front of th suit la absolutely "uncaped. It baa a traiarnt little jacket, buttoned with lao buttons al th throat and divldlnc a wee bit below lha buat lo show a wal-tcnat. or lac biouae. Thla Jacket falia lo the walatilne only, and below, tha akirt haa a front panel laid In thre bos pleat. iut. ah! what a dif ference whan th suit turna Ha back on yoi apce from collar to knee! Ther ar two capea overlapping each other from shoulder aeam to ehoulder earn acrn the back. These. In turn, overlap three capaa aet'from aide seam to aid aeam acrosa the back of the coat. Tb lowermoet overhang Ike aieliiB and l& Ivy uikviUii akul ho l'tt announrad her enitatemarit to Vurnitn F. Krlinrr. a youn Wall- trrt brokrr and a irraauaie 01 iaie. Vliaa Kyd la a dnuahtcr of tha late K'char.l Myd and ae llvaa at Mar Shnrr. I I. Sha (a bn Metropolitan cbami'lon for four aaavona. a a a The Purhea of Marlhoroush. former ly t.ir.urlo Vamlrrbi'r.- hoa won a rparatlun from hrr txlad hubajU and has been vi.H n; In New York. lr. VTynne, an Knrltjh woman now with tha Kad Crona work In the l(u- lan Cauraaus. haa bean darorntcd by both France and Belgium for bravery wbile uuOtr fira. a a m t Waihlnirton haa loot Mra. Alaton R. .wlmion, onto Lucy Hoke 8mith. thla U'lntar. Mra. Simpaon'a huiband. who ta a IJautanant In tha Navy, la taklns a poatcradunte course at Annapolta. Mra. (lir.ioti la a frequant vialtor at th hnma of ber father tha Senator from iiaorma. or. should one now rtfer to it as a flounce? Five of these flounces down the back of the aklrt continue the suc cession of overlapping capes from the collar to th knee. Heraar-1 lafrodaeeaj Aprwa Taale. Another little i"prtns; model from fiarnard. which haa been railed the "tiarcon" because Its abbreviated Jacket and apron drapery ana-Rent hablllmenta of the Frencti waiter. Is of navy blue acre and faille ailk the rather heavy, rich faille claaalque which drapca so gracefully. Of this navy faille la the full, short skirt four yards wide at the hem and dis tended by a hem ficlnc- of crinoline. Th apron la of navy sere and la laid In unpressed pleat. It falla almost to the aklrt ham In front and slopes away to a lo-lnch lnTth at the back of the hip. The little box coat fall to the 4ilstline and beneath It show a waist coat of red ailk. embroidered In black. Tlrb shawl revers of the serge coat, fared with faille, extend Into a deep collar al the bark. White bone but ton. and a buckle to match add to "lha youthful snap of this fetching" ller nard suit, A tan gabardine suit from Beer In trodurea a new Idea In th controlling of aklrt fullness. Th aklrt Is enor mously wldr aix yard at leaat. but moat of this fullnoas I laid In loos pleat acroea th back. The side tore hav tab, about at the hip. which ritend acros to the canter back and hold down the pleats In trUn effect to thla point. Th H-er sui? has a fanciful coal with gathered pvplum and full sleeve gathered Into the new flare or bell ruff. There Is an oblong collar, which hanga to the walMilne at the back. thou-h In front the coat has mannish, notched revera and collar. -ock eta ar set Just beluw the waist line. If th new suit haa a full, gathered skirt, unatirfened. aomethlng must be worn undcrncaia lo give llie annoyed ftarlnir allhpuetta Thla aomethlng may be an apron of pleated crinoline at tached to a waistband and falllna; Just below the : nee. or It may be a hooped petticoat. Flounced skirt of pussy-willow taf fet have stripe of featherbono run Into rapines at the hip and knee, mak ing; a lllit. excellent foundation for ;ha tailored skirt. Though all skirts are worn short enouah to dlrplay tha buttoned walk Ins: boot, moat of the ready-made suits have skirts In normal length, the hem belnc turned up to suit the customer. Style Interet Now Turn to Separate Skirt. Doable Hhoaldar Capes Make aw TsaoaB rl-4THajllae asraai Ulateaa Talloreal Mklrta. SEPARATE skirts have fresh interest now that Summer blouse season Is drawing nearer. A good model for morning wear with tailored blouse Is of dark blue mohair and worsted fabric, light and comfortable for Spring anJ Summer wear. Straight panels fall from the waistline at front and Lack and the side sections are pleated and attached to deep well-fitting hip yokes. This skirt is also seen in striped serge, the pleated sections showing the stripes only when the well pressed pleats riy apart. a . a a Smart new topcoats hare double shoulder capes which fall over the elbows and extend all the way around the back of the coat, the fronts but toning in double-breaated fashion to the throat. Some coals are belted at tho normal waistline, others, ultra models from I'arls. have narrow strap belt outlining the edge of a deep yoke which reaches well below the armpits, the lower part of the coat rippling out below this high belt line. , a a Aprons of crinoline are cleverly used to distend the skirts of tailored suits. The apron, of stiff crinoline, pleated closely hangs from the Inside of the sklrtband at either side, giving the silhouette the right lines. There are also new flounced . petticoats of pussy willow taffeta, run with light feather bone hoops at a point between hip and knee. A petticoat like this holds out even a skirt of soft, thin wool ma terial In the lines It should take and now that wide petticoats have come back most women wonder how they ever endured tho eelskln affairs of a few seasons ago. a a a Plack spats are not as gay and dainty as fawn or gray ones, but there are certain costumes which demand them. New black apats for wear with pntenl leather pumps are stitched in white up the seams and around the edi-e and are particularly smart. The spat, at best, is only .a makeshift, and well-dressed women as a rule prefer the smart buttoned boot with light cloth top which never slips away from the vamp as even the best fitting spat sometimes does Xrotn the pump under It. Fur in February in Need of Thorough Cleaning. Skaklaar Oace a Week and Brisk lleatlaa; M lib MaM Warn Oeea aloaally .Needed t Keep loat Away. AUOCT this season of the year one's furs that were so soft and glossy back In November began to take on. a matted, dingy look which is distress ing. If Madame's pet Pomeranian ever took on the rusty, matted uppearance of her furs in February he would be dropcd into the bathtub without loss of time, but furs may not be treated in thla simple, practical fashion when they become soiled. For all that Is the matter with furs In February is that they are soiled. No one ever thinks of using a whisk broom to fura. yet obviously the fur coat has acquired as much dust as the broadcloth or velvet suit, assid uously brushed every time it is taken off. Dirt and dust do not remain on the surface of fur but work down Into the roots of the hairs, which become matted because of it. All fura should be'ehnken briskly in the open air once a week and It will do no harm to hang them on the line and give them a briak beating with a llabt wand. A nearseal coat will keep it smooth texture better if brushed over lightly now and then with a whisk broom dipped in cold water. Baked Cheese Appetizing With Pork and Beans. IMplasr Hot Oarertloa. Prepared la taasrrole With Male Hrrad. la Jaal the Thlag With Mlht Supper. WITH cold sliced chicken or other cold meat at the Sunday night supper one hot dish is always accept able, and in nine cases out of ten this hot dish seems to be the honest but hitniTSIi. fr..lrH bean and fta brethren. a dish easily prepared these days, when the beans, pork and all,. come ready in a can to be heated up for tea. Hakea cneese la appeiizinpr. iisi nu .. . 1 1 . nnn tnakn a de lirious side dish, served piping hot. Place three or lour Slices 01 im oreau, w.ll ktitl..rer1 In tile bottom Of the casserole or earthen baking dish. Beat up two egES and stir In a cup of milk, u.. ...Hv a eon and a half of grated cheese; stir it into the eggs and milk: pour over the bread ana set in a nui oven. ' When the cheese has purrea up ana browned well on top, the dish Is ready . r. .hnnM not be allowed to stand a moment, but should go directly from oven to taoie. Kraat I'atleras Real Fa a. An Interesting Winter game for chil dren Is the capturing of froet patterns. It Is a simple matter to make perma nent .records of beautiful Ice flowers. Make Vl small quantity of 2 per cent solution of gelatine and water. This is flooded over a small sheet of i I th.n tha whole thin- is put out In the freeilng air. Quite soon the solution begins to ireese in me ior.u , . i Tn ..nii.r th dealsrns VI C 1 w quite permanent tsTce the sheet of glass and quickly put It into a dish. Then pour over every pari, some w"1 hoi. oak for a few moments and then pour the alcohol back Into' the bottle for use on another occasion. The treatment will take away the Ice and leave behind the tracery of the frost .. a anatln bf clear varnish brings up the patty-n with great bril- These frost patterns mak charming . . ... n.ir a-laxa winuow n t..-. ........ - eases can be decorated with frost flowers In the manner aescxioea. nere a brush will be found uaeful to paint the gelatlnte solution on to the surface of the "rase. t.arrd aklrt la Fear Piece. i - elation of the srored skirt is in fodr pieces. One seen a short while ago was In four pieces, but the front and back were finished and lapped on the sides to give the effect of panels or box plaits. The finish of the skirt could be made at either the raised waist line or at the natural waist line. In the model seen broadcloth was trimmed with braid, but the model was a good one for all seasonable materials and all seasonable trimmings. Thi year will etabllh a record for th nm.ih.r or ms(c seal over 641a tcl vfiapa Uius. SIMPLE EXERCISE IS ADVISED FOR WOMEN 1 Stately Effect and Shapely Result Easily Executed, Short . - vU a- A I r ; b.;5-;.1 ; j . : ; : " 4 ; file - . ,1 '.-'M I , -. H x U . n :-"; : ! - it - -1 1 I J r 4? " v t -.il.' i . - fC't, .'! f'' ; I -N ' ( -f - " ' t" j "'AtS' I - : f " tl 4rvs J 1 ' 1 ' : ' 4 U sT-llA. Vs ' " a.' I Con iti&& DO YOU go through a series of ex ercise religiously every morning upon rising? If not. you ought to. The benefits of exercise of this sort when the day offers little opportunity for other sort of exercise have been proved many times. Most women take up exercises In their rooms at one time or another, but the effort is abortive a a rule. It Is such a bore to go through meaningle.-s movements over and over every mornlns. robbing one self of 10 minutes of valuable sleeping time and reniilts seem so uncertain. The trouble is. one cannot see the re sult. of such exercifeK until the exer cises have betn performed faithfully for several weeks and in the mean time the average woman grows borel and tired. Here Is a good exercise that com bines several benefits and saves the doing of one or two other exercises. For Instance, it sightly practiced, it will make the hips slimmer, the waist line smaller, take fat off the shoulder blades and keep the ne'ek full and youthful. It is a rather strenuous ex ercise, though that does not mean It is taken rapidly: and four times" will be enough to practice it each morning. To begin the exercise, tit and firmly on both feet and hold the arms out at the sides. One arm, say, the right, is held straight with the palm turned down. . The. other arm, the left. Is held with the palm turned upward. Now begin pushing with both hands, one up and one down. Of course, the pushing is only against the air. but you can put as much strength into it, with your muscles and will, as though you were pushing pounds and pounds with each hand. As the hands push, turn the figure from the waist up, to ward the down-pushing arm. This will MILITARY JEWELRY IS FASCINATING AND NOVEL Parisian Fad Crosses Ocean and Many Pretty Ornaments Are Offered in Real Gems and Imitations. ii i t) ft i t f 0 JEWELS MILITANT TO FORE ROW. MILITARY Jewelry is not likely to become the craze here that it is in Paris, but so many of the new war-time trinkets have found their way across the sea and so fascinat ing and novel are they, withal that the American maid simply must possess a few of them. In Paris Jewelry of this sort abounds. In the Binaller shops one runs across ornaments made of imitation gold set with colored glass: in the windows of high-class Jewelers almost the same ornaments are to be seen, made of gold, platinum aui the while metal in which luinionda May Be Obtained by FewTrials at and Strenuous Exertion. r .l?. bring a tremendojjs pull on the hack and shoulder muscles of the up-pushing arm. and a P"U over the hip muscles also. Bend the figure over as far as you can. always pushing down with the one arm and up with the other and the push of the raised arm be comes a heavy lift as the arm rises level with the shoulder. At the same time twist the head and stretch the neck as though you were trying to look at the floor back of the down-pushing hand. Do not do this exercise more than four times toward each side on one oc casion or the muscles of back and hip will feel sore and lame. Always do the exercise slowly, putting all your mind ami will on the effort of pushing up and down. How to IJemove Creases Told. Let any -wrinkled garment hanr for 24 hours, if possible, before pressing it. For many of the wrinkles will hang out. Taffeta is really injured by each pressing and although taffeta does wrinkle easily some of the wrinkles will come out if the Knrmcnt is smoothed and carefully hunt? away. After each pressing, too, taffeta is just so much more liable to wrinkle; another reason for pressing it-as little as possible. When chiffon is badly wrinkled steam it, then hang it on a padded hanger, stuff it with tissue paper and dry it in front of a fire or radiator. To steam it, fill, a bis pan full of boiling" water and hold the chiffon garment over it until it is damp with steam. During the last year TB.2S1.735 short tons of snnd and gravel, having a value of -J.!.st(i,UUU, wero dug out in the Lnlted Stales. Mi ? are set these days, with real Jewels sparkling in the settings. One lace pin is supposed to imitate a sword belt and is of white metal set with many small diamonds and nine garnets. A little rifle of gun metal set with tiny brilliants is also a pretty pin. A tiny sword of gold with hilt of red enamel and diamoiMls is especially attractive. Then there is a drum major's baton of blue enamel, silver and rhinestones with a pearl set in the end. The bugle is of silver and blue ( enamel with, many small diamouCs, I 'l l 1 1 - MS Devoted lo the HEALTtf.COMFORTBEAUTY ... & WOMEN BODY-TRAINING MILITARY-BELT Welcomed like a very dear but long lost friend! That's the reception given the NEW Nemo Military-Belt Corset by a host of slender women who would wear no corset but the original Military Belt balf-a-dozen years ego. Supreme comfort and superb style for every woman of slender or medium form who wears the NEW Nemo Military-Belt 330 For lender to mediant 1 bgurei, abort or osmedium tcitht 333 -For tiller Iender to I $3 medium nsurc . ..J Fine white couti! Size 20 to 30. You'll never "slouch" in these corsets. You will have an alert, erect bearing; you will breathe deeply; there will be no pressure anywhere to harm you; and you will be COMFORTABLE whether you are dressed for the street, for the reception or the theatre; whether you are playin tennis or golf, dancing or skating, you will feel as free as though you bad no corset on. And you will be com fortable in your household tasks cleaning, sweeping, bait ing, hanging curtains or scrubbing the floor. It's all in the shape, the fit, and the exclusive hy gienic icatures of this wonderful corset. BE A WISE WOMAN Wear the RIGHT Nemo! Sold Everywhere $3.50, $4.00, $5 up to $10 JlaauH7tiak-Faiaia Inst it si, Nrw Trk AlitfleCureani Alittle Cuticum DoWondersfor Mrflnd SMn The Soap to cleanse, purify and beautify, the Ointment to soothe and heal. Sample Each Free by Mail With 32-p. Skin Book on request. Ad dress post-card "Cuticura, Dept. (Ki Boaton." Sold throughout the world. An especially fine shampoo for this weather can be easily made at triflinff expense by simply dissolving a tea spoonful of canthrox in a cup of hot water. Pour slowly on scalp and massage briskly. This creates a. soothing, cooling lather that dissolves and removes all dandruff, excess oil and dirt. Rinsing leaves the scalp spotlessly clean, soft and pliant, while th. na r iKei nn a r hkkv i iLiuirna ul natural color, also a fluffiness which makes It seem very much heavier than it is. After a canthrox shampoo ar ranging the hair ia a pleasure. Adv. -'J TODAY'S AID TO BEAUTY
