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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 13, 1916)
Tim SUNDAY OREGON! AX, TORTLAXU, FEBRUARY 13, IMG. CHECKED SERGE ENTERS SEASON AS FRESH AS THOUGH UNHEARD OF Sail II rati Circmlar or rVratrd SUM. Short Enoagh t Show Contract in Black and White Footwear Tan and nine Cloth Taiilror I'aed Effectively in Youthful Garb. rf-i i J , r i it '.. CltrTK r.D rs aTwaya rtr the Spring u. earn iMion fraah and alluring though, II Bad er br thought of bafore. Thl tear' ehevke-t suit will look iomr 1MC Ilk, th nv.-l p.-tor; full, circular or pitef skirt short tnouch to now th cvnlrxl of btark and whit llMr: a coal having bla.k and fell button, new lave etrarrd la at Ih rtt and a tall paplum it rangarcnt ovtr th hli. I'oior Jut sufficient I added to thl buck and Mt coot'im br a turnover collar f coral silk arobrold'rad in Bold. The bat uf vtit. a tin. iicc;ci and lull. U alt tl.i-k. Obtouir. from th nlw depart-in-nt JM youthful and enchanting tallleuf. hkh combine light Ian bro-dcttrt "Hh tapaatry blue broad cloth, tb blu appearing on.y in th col'ar. In an lnaart In th ruff and In tp un too puvk't. itbrwiu th ult ail tn. n th covered buck la. aad to buttoned boote wbtrh irt re vealed br ln abort hlrt h tan kid tup. Tna anouldrr cap I a rartlcu lr moiln ftir of thl full, and th coil, It oa1 of ID aw model, take unto lti( much fu.lnea over tha hip. .lateral trikinc'r attractive eull of H. or ll-won fabrte. hav com front Part to pro that th Krnrh favor alia for tailored wear thl riprina. TM mod. I from Duwtt la of blark eati-i n.xturnn in combination t attn-:rtpl laff'ta. a: blark. A tv nt of th trip4 all (c arpaara on th coal front. Th -at of lht modal la dignified rather than Jaunty, and ha ct-rnlar pablum with tt polrt at four cora-re la very graceful. Tba manner of combining t o material In Ibta aolt aboold offer suggestion of thr combination arrange Id aim liar manner. Answers to Corre.pondenU fliTUP. or. r-a, t w;:t a klnd'r w y . .,r .arlWat rinlfirt la IP l o-rf'Miaa a ra Ipa ff am.r mar. snr.tw, f4 'Bt. liB aJ crasa. fruit : Ta! ). Mil. B. I. I lion: tfta (ollowlnc ' on you maB: Ml td marmatado ( omatlma raPad ambar marmalada ihw (rapafrult. on laraa (, on (arc Irmon. aaran p'nta cold aratar. ten cup I f tv pound) -ranutla. uar. p th fruit. Cut ' In M'l&rtar. and tha quartar Into tenth (In tia raa of th oranae and araafruit: cut th aarliona Into IU fhinrat poiatbla tra. cutttnc I un puio and r . and dlarardmc a I ,d lh wilT and 11 aland oarnlht. ftrlna' t tha boll and 1't lint) ti4in ornichl. Thn rook un til I1 paal la awrfarlly trndr ar.d 4ln mi a.id 1 2 bourn. Nait add tha Kr and lat rook until Iba mitlura tni-kana aiisbiH. wbaa droppad uooa m cold plata: t.'.an itr lika Jrl.r. l-arjca. Jmcr th rk-k tnnad frlt. ratAar und- than orr-rip. ara bal for marmalada. Tb paal mut b covka4 anttl Irndar baforo tb pulif I addad. a It aill ao aollan affr warda nor til it aborb t' a aurar proparl. Tba "m nt nid plan and troullaaoma. but artuaitr a both tm a nl fual in olumnr th paat If prafrrad. tb firat rouklnC rar pro'onad until th pl la tn dr. o that vn.y two rttina mti4" ara ('urn: but mora foal and attrition will b beaded than by lb method abo. Ti'har a alronsty cpIla4 marmalada I likat. aoma of th watr mar rae!cd br Hppla )uirr." obtained by boiilna; and drainlna; th clean, aottnd arpl" partnea from on or two rl imt rttr of prtr.c marmalade aur b made br tn abov mat hod. Iirtnc on temon to four or ftva orange a orefarrrd. and a.'.oainc thre pint cold water for averr pounS of prapared frutt and ona uuart ucr fr every quart of m i x -d etiKr and fruit. ma bred af'er tha noda hat baa n cooked lint I endr. A'nicet anr brafrrrad derrr of acidity or bitternea can b obtained br n.uvlirj In; lb .rvcorliona vf tba 1 wi m m 'r -.. . -s.. -kl X u im mm : s-:' j i'.iiir i r" t It A 4 v.- 1 V " - I a , .-a - I thre ritrua fruit. lUm fruit mar malade u aUo food, ainillarlr Pr" pored. T ll."l n. or, .t I -Will roa te sua la I ha aun-laT flffe.nren a rv-ipe fvr a -aomti-al i mua rhaaa? I bruaiit la 'a.r lrn baota ift.valaO alt.1 nia. tut na ui'u.ald n-m. lie had a ll'tle fjr ta II. 11 ether had epoage cake cremt Caa a alo p! ia ma le taiie for aakinc tha lat late of oraaaaj arH frvlta abd tiula ae rna-le be the artou Iit fi--l romiuW Tnry ara made of rt tigt. dalaa. cwaaeut. art-ote and atjte In verloua coanMnatlor.a Th-y ara aall la Tat raeee aiul is Inrhre br 4 a lnha mt4 IS l-nee tht-k at pn-e eaa. Tar ara k for alKIn fr aand Meat !talv au rm a Mwnttrr tnm from ay esrlplioa. Tbanktne )u tr r rubi. at Ha. bl. B. Tba followlna I an KnaMah rrlp. which I ha not triad, but whlrh Ktmi almllar to th kind you dVarrtbc. Umra ch with crumb On half cup very finely cruetivd and aiflrd cravker. bread or dry arvonar-rake c rumba, m cup water. I Vj cup auarar. two lemon, two aa. two lablron ful butter. Have th crumb a finely pulrrriaod a poaalbl. I'ut thrm Into a pan and pour on th hot water, then add th euaar and rutter with th crated rind and (trained Julr of th lamona When th eucar la diaaoltad pour th hot mlatur upon l wll tatn IK. rook over hot watar until th ear Ihlrkrna. trt cool and ua for cba cake In th uaual war. Thl fii:ma may alao b u.frl for ou yaruiy vl Uuva pi or fur Ictouu J cake filllnc. or a a pudding- aauo for a plain puddlntt. In norao caae a llttl more hof water might b liked In uaing th mixture aa a hot hum or whlpird cream or beaten eKeT whit misht bo folded In If It were uad a a cold aaurr. More lemon may be needed for omo taete. Another plain lemon pi filling- or "lemon chere" I aa follow: 1 cup ugar. 4 cup boiling- water. I level lablepon cornatarrh. S level table- poon flour. : rgc yolk. 1 tableapoona lemon Julr. grated rind of 1 lemon. 1 leaatMton butter. MIX the flour, corn atarrh and auicar. add the boiling water allrrlng runatantlf. Cook two mlnutea; add th lemon rind and Juice, th but ter, and latly th beaten egg yolk. Cook carefully over hot water until th yolka thicken llKhtly. t'ae for lemon pie. rhera rakea. rake filling or aaucea aa ui;(cted above. "Rule of three" lemon filling cup auaar. cup water. 3 level tableapoon flour. 3 egg yolk. 3 tableapoon lemon Juice, s teaapoona butter. 1 three-Inch-long atrip of yellow lemon rind. Pro para and ua aa above except that th thin-rut lemon rind I cooked In th oitxtur and removed at the laat. hollowing la a urful "lemon curd" or lemon cream for keeping. It i beM ma. '.a when egca and butter are low In pnc. It will keep i If atored like Jelly In a cool place! for thre to flv month. Kor u It can b "diluted If dealred with rntmba laoftened In hot waieri or with crumb laoftened In hot Utickcniog lu hul water In prujyorUooa j uasealed by the above recipe; or it can b uied Jurt aa It la. With a little whipped cream or egg whit folded In it make a fairly good dresalng for a awcet fruit aalad. It may alao be ueed for iweet aandwicbee and I. generally apeaking. "a Useful thing lo have In the houae." Kngllah lemon curd 2 cupa (1 pound .ugar. cup ( pound) but trr. egg, the grated rind of 3 lemon and the alralned Julc of 3 or 4, accord ing to the aiz of the lemons and the taate of tha maker. Uelt th butter, ugar and lemon Juice together, bring ing them Just to boiling point. Add th grated rind. Pour the hot mixture gradually upon tb well-beaten eggs. Brat thoroughly and cook carefully over hot water until the mixture thick en to a heavy honeyllka conntatency Bo careful t avoid overcooking, which may eaus curdling. Tb fruit and nut loavea of the type you drscrlh can be eaaily made by pausing any preferred combination of dried fruit and nuts through the meat chopper aevrral times until very thor oughly divided, mixing thoroughly and preaalng Into an oiled tin or mould of suitable size and shape. Pot i weight on top to secure an even pre sure. Whera a very firm texture is liked, som almond meal might be kneaded In. For use In sandwiches a sllgtly moist mixture la preferable for apreadlng. and the ground fruit and nuts may therefore b pressed Into Jelly glosses inalesd of into a sllceable loaf. For such purposes if peanuts are liked and can bo dlKcated. a good brand of "ready mdg" peanut butter may be combined with the ground dried fruits. Varied flavors may be secured by using differ ent proportions of the fruits you name. Do not use cocoanut for young chil dren or for persons of delicate diges tion. If you do use it. use the fresh kind and grate or grind It very fine. Hlanch any almonds you may use. Bra zil nuts. If used. should also be blanched. Walnuts and pecans may be blanched or not as preferred. Be sura to wash and scald your dried fruit and allow them to swell a little afterwards by drying them in the warming oven. This Is not only a good, clean way of preparing dried fruits for use. but Is also economical, in that II Improves flavor and Increases bulk. PORTLAND. Or., Jan. 17. Will you ktn.hy r a recipe for chocolate cream pie? Alao one fnr whole-wheat bread, suit aol for uns children. And can you give a recliia for "heavenly haah." aa it la railed T 11 1 a !4lk brown pudding with data and nut in. snd is ered with hipped cream or bard sauce. Thankluc ou la adaace. "KIUH ADUIt A." Chocolate pic Bake lightly a large, deep, 'flaky pastry" ple-hell. as for lemon pie; fill with th following mix ture or with any other preferred choc olate cream. lrcorate with a meringue or with whipped cream as preferred. Th filling is more wholesome and to many people mora acceptable if served In glasses with whipped cream and without the pastry crust. Chocolate cake ia known as "choco late pio" In aome parts of the country. Let me know If this latter was what you meant. The same cream given be low may be used as "filling" for cream layer cakes or for eclairg or cream puffs. Chocolate cream Two cups acalded milk, five level tablespoons cornstarch. half cup sugar, quarter teaspoon salt, one-third cup cold milk. 1 Vj squares unsweetened chocolate, three table spoons hot water, whiles of two eggs, one teaapoon vanilla. Mix the corn starch, salt and sugar with the cold milk, pour on th hot milk, return to the pan, bring to boiling point, then rook over hot water 10 or 15 minutes until no "raw" taste Is perceptible Melt the cborolate. mix smooth with the water. Add to the other mixture, add the flavoring, beat well. Fold In the rgg while. Let cool a little be fore pouring into the pie shell, so as not lo make the under crust "soggy." Let it get quite firm in the shell be fore decorating with meringue or whipped cream. It uhould be Just firm I enough to hold' Us shape wnen cut, out no silffer. For plainer pie omit the egg whites. For a richer pie use chocolate Bavarian cream. For young children the "fine ground" entire wheat flour is usually preferable. Plft It before using, and leave out any of the coarser particles. Plain entire wheat bread One pint whole milk, one fresh compressed yeast cake softened In one-fourth cup luke warm water, three-fourhs level tea spoon salt tor more to taste), entire wheat flour to make a soft dough. Scald but do not boll the milk. Cool to luke warm, add the yeast, salt and sifted entire wheat flour to make a drop bat ter. Beat thoroughly and let rise at a temperature of about "2 degrees until very light and spongy. Mix In very gradually enough entire wheat flour to make a dough that can be kneaded. Have it as soft as possible, and knead until It is elastic and has loat its sticki ness. L'se as little flour ps pcssible, in kneading. Shape Into two loaves and place In greased pans. Iet rise until double In bulk. Brush with milk, very carefully, and bake 45 to S" minutes in a moderate oven. A tablespoon of light brown sugar may be added to the bat ter If the flavor Is liked: but this Is not really either necessary or particu larly desirable. I am sorry that your description is too vague to allow me to identify the pudding you mean. "Heavenly Hash" is a name given to so many mixtures. Perhaps some reader may help. All the following recipes agree with your description: Iate and nut souffle Four large, or five small egg whites, one-half cup fine granulated sugar, one-half cup chopped nuts, one-half pound dates, scalded, dried, stoned, and cut into small bits. Beet the eggs until stiff, then gradually beat in the sugar, then fold in carefully the nuts and dates, place In a buttered baking dish dredged with sugar. Place this on several folds of paper In a pan or not water and let cook In a slow oven 25 to 30 mlnutea. Serve, from the baking dish, with whipped cream or hard sauce. It will fall slightly, not much, unless the oven is too hot. Iate and nut souffle M). 2 Boll one-half cup sugar and two tablespoons water to the heavy thread. Potfr this upon three stiff-beaten egg whites. whirl still hot beat In 10 ctitup marsn- mallows. half cup nuts, and .one cup scalded, dried, stoned and cutup dates Bent until It begins to stiffen, place in glasses and when cold serve with whipped cream. Date and nut Jelly To one pint or dinary lemon or orange Jelly on the point of setting, add one cup dates pre pared as above and one-nair to tnree- fourths cup broken nut meats. A fesv cutup marshmallows may be added if liked. Mold or serve in individual glasses as preferred, decorated wltn whipped cream or wltn bard sauce run through a "rose' tube. Date and nut cream combine nuis and dates aa above with one pint Ba varian cream of any preferred flavor. Serve with whipped cream. Date and nut snow combine dates and nuts as above, with one pint "apple snow." "snow pudding" or marshmalJow punaing - mixture, serve In glasses with whipped cream. Date and nut whip Prepare like -date and nut Jelly." but whip the Jellv telther plain or with one eeg white) before combining with the nuts. Health" and Beauty Hints Given. Do not neglect to brush and comb the hair and massage the scalp merely to save a curl or wave. An Iron that is heated lo the right degree may not Injure th hair.' Th u'a of Kids I always safe, although th procs of curling or waving takes more time. Peopl who are "run down" are par ticularly subject to chilblains. In cold weather, so It is essential to keep fit. Have a tonic made up If you feel be low var. J-at good, nourishing food. NEW JACKET FROM PARIS GIVES EFFECT OF JAUNTY YOUTHFULNESS Fancy for Military Tailleurs Persists Because Some Women Look Their Beet in Costumes of This Character. Captivating Suit for Spring Is Out. ,ev OJ- HEX It first appeared in Paris, a pretty little tailieur was called Le Garcon," because the bobbed-off Jacket of It and the flat. apron drapery over the skirt-front sug gested a waiter's atlire. The model Is a favorite one becauxc of Its Jnunty yovtthfulne.-s. A skirt of navy faille is stiffened within the hem, and over the skirt hangs an apron of navy serge. The serge Jacket has faille sleeves and falls In loose lines over a longer waist coat of embroidered silk. White but tons in well-placed groups add further to the Jauntiness of the little coat. Th fancy for military tailleurs per- ' TV 4pf a . ' , i f " irl A y-w ''f '" 1 v fA I , J r . if vv ;: - wJ v : 4 " ' T M. i la L , y , i 4 M f ' A 1 " x f v - ? ' H r : . f hl - t v j j I ' , I' - -.. 1 . '.' : ' P x ' e 4 , "I r v TWO DRESSES OF GABARDINE ARE , DIFFERENT, YET ALIKE IN SEVERITY Gown of Blue Has Chic Directoire Collar and Little Cuffs and Turn-Over of White Linen, Giving Military Effect. Suggestions of 1880 Appear in Shops. TWO dresses that have been especial ly admired are made in gabardine, one In dark blue, the other in castor color. They are entirely different in style, and yet each has tho same severe effect in its finish. The blue gabardine has no other trimming than little cuffs and turn-over of white linen, but its collar. In high directoire style, is as chic as that of Napoleon himself, while the little bands that close the front, with their buokles of the material, have a taut military precision that carries out the intention of the collar. Another seen in a collection is In very direct contrast; it has a much shaped Jacket, buttoned down tho front In 1880 style, with a close row of nut tons. The draped skirt with Its cun ous little bunches at the side, caught up by the same buttons. is also ex tremely suggestive of the '80s. And a third gown is in long lines, broken at the hips by a cunning ar rangement of pockets, embroidered like the collar an.tl belt that crosses the back, in shades of castor, lighter and darker than cloth. This gown has the same sort of a color as the blue one, but it is accompanied by a very pretty separate stole of beaver which ia in tended to add. to Its uses as a late Win ter model. Several new suits made up are in a m shade of tan or brown, one of beige broadcloth in the softest quality, which has a Jacket arranged in long walsted blouse lines by its wide belt of suede In a darker tone. A double skirt repeats this idea, and the whole thing is about as graceful in effect as any suit that we have had since the appear ance of wide skirts. New Silhouette Appears, "Mantle-gowns" are what they are now calling the rohe-ntanteau of the Rut de la Paix. The lines of these gowns even more accentuate the .idea . . . J l .i I .Hie of a dress man w ma. v,.. fashion that we have known. In spite i thi thev are in every case accom panied bv the softest, fluffiest little dresses of chiffon, simplicity itself, the careful selection of their color giving their cachet as well aa their flatterino note to the wearer. ........ Quite a new silhouette is that of a little afternoon dress, its bodice of satln'huttoned down the back, even to tho high stock collar. This severe cor saKe Is rendered more graceful by the full skirt of chiffon and by a curious new trimming of chenille balls that finishes the bodice and the skirt. Another very sane little dress of chiffon with bands of satin, shows the long waistline which has been re marked In the Jacket. It Is of dark blue as the rank and file of chiffon dresses are; the. gown of voile ninon and of various sorts of crepy muslins HI rival that of liberty satin for ele gant Spring wear. We shall see taf fetas, but certainly in lesser quantities. Th tailors are coing to use many greenlsh-grav shades that suggest the old-fashioned sase-greens. once so pop ular. In fact, a satin model of this shade banded with green velvet is so dark It s almost black. For evening wear, a great, deal' of tulle grec and chiffon are combined. Several new evening gowns show this I 2 -,, a mr?'-- '3 wisher 2? ce-cA-eZt sists; for some women look their best in trim costumes of this character. There la a Paris model combining the latest military whimsies. Fine strap pings of white braid are effective on the suit material, dark green serge; and touches of bisque cloth on collar, sleeve and pocket motifs at the belt add to the military effect. Of course, there are buttons, and they combine green, dull gilt and cream pyroxylin in harmonious coloring. Like all the mili tary suits, this one has a skirt .hort combination made up over liberty satin or taffelas. Another gown is entirely of liberty ' satin, a deep rose-pink, trimmed with fringes of chinchilla; a very lovely combination, most charac teristic of the soft colors to whicn we are leaning, gives a charming erred. A new wrap is made of velours-ue-laine in biscuit shade. It is cut in flaring lines and falls In bell shape from the shoulders to the knees. This is banded with heavy faille, of the same shade, about the hem: it has a muC collar, one cf the soft, high bands very much draped, of the faille, repeated in big turn-back cuffs. Huge buttons ot the silk fasten the collar and. extend in a close row down the front. One beautiful robe-manteau is ot tete-de-negre velveteen. The cut of this gown is also very pretty. A double box plait comes from beneath the pocket, which is placed on each hip. The pocket is met by a belt which extends around t"he back, and from this the skirt section falls in flaring lines, cut full enough ta the top. however, to be arranged in gathers. This belt, the pockets and cuffs are embroidered in black mixed with aarK gray. There is a collar in cape shape with a long stole which extends to the hem of the dress. This is maoe or nun".. It may be detachable if desired, but on the model It Is really the trimming. Five Ostrich Feather Trim Hat. There was a chiffon dress made to be worn especially with the long robe manteau. This was of champagne-col ored chiffon trimmed with bands of satin in golden brown. The lining Is of champagne satin, very light weight. The long blouse of chiffon falls over the first belt of the brown satin, which is really fastened to the lining, but it is held in place by a band around the hips. With this is worn one of the newest hats. It is large, becoming and picturesque. Black panne is used for the brim, which is plaited softly into U)e crown on Doth sides. The trimming of this hat, which gives it a curious line, is very unique; five long uncurled ostrich feathers satin feathers, as they call them in Paris fall from the bow at the left side and make a sweeping flat line of the top of the hat: they droop slightly over the crown aii brim and then fall over the edge. The shoes worn with this gown are worn with stockings of a lighter shade. Another dress to be worn with robe munteau hat a bodice of satin, cut with a slight sifaping at the waist, with a seam under the arm, and is buttoned down the back. It has a narrow sash which comes from the under-arm seam and is loosely knotted In the back. The lack of darts in this bodice causes It to wrinkle in folds around the waist, which makes it very graceful. High Collar Accompanies. The hi!ih collar repeats this idea. It is cut with the fronts and backs of the bodice being Joined with a seam a jour from the shoulder-line. It is cut much too high and drapes in the same man ner as the bottom of the bodice. A frill above it is made of handkerchief linen. .Tie only trimming on the bodice is a verv unique one. It is a double chain of chenille balls, graduated, sizes, worn , enough to reveal the buttoned walking boot frankly. A captivating little suit, typical of Spring freshness and daintiness of at tire is out. Blue serge and satin of the same shade effect Uie combination of materials now demanded by Paris. The loo.-e, military Jacket opens to show a waistcoat of white cloth on which are groups of small red buttons. The larcrer buttons on the coat and those on the sleeve are of gunmetal. The skirt of this suit is laid in broad pleats, and each pleat is slightly stilfened with crinoline. All the pleats are stitched down as far as the hip. t around tho neck like a string of beads, These balls are repeated at the top ot the hem of satin, which finishes a very full skirt 'of chiffon matched in puff sleeves. The color of this costume is dark blue. A one-piece dress robe-manteau Is made of blue-ribbed serge. The entire gown is of the material, straps in front being fastened with little buckles cov ered with it. The strap, which goes around the waist, edines from the sides of the back width. This is a single panel from the neck to hem. It Is shaped in slightly Ju.-t at the waist and flares ever so slightly toward the hem. The tail collar- is cut with fronts of the material. A little guinnie with turn over, nemstitched. buttoning with tiny blue ball-buttons, is matched in little cuffs which extend below the sleeves. This is one of the prettiest robe-man-teaus we have seen this year. The cut is very becoming and very new. A tailor suit is made of almost in visible check in shades of brown. The Jacket is bound around with brown braid. Colors wo shall have in discretion pale, delicate colors, for entire after noon gowns, and touches of contrasting color and of tarnished metal upon the dark wools of street gowns, which are often like the evening gowns, of the softest quality of satin.- Satin seems partly to replace taffetas. lictittes of Fasliion Told. The short full skirt is undoubtedly . the leader for all occasions. Long cords and tassels stream from the ends of the round muffs. The little girl's dress may be trimmed with narrow velvet ribbon. Some of the new silks are heavy white crepes with black stripes. Flesh pink lining for the sheer up standing collars is a good idea. There are some suits with coats cut to hang straight from the shoulders. A one-sleeved Spanish cloak of sable is one of the fiishions favored abroad. TODAY'S BEAUTY HINT It is not necessary to shampoo quite so frequently if your hair is properly cleansed each time by use of a really good shampoo. The easiest to use and quickest drying shampoo tiiat we can recommend to our readers may bo prepared very cheaply by dissolving a teaspoonful of canthrox. obtained frum your druggist, in a cup of hot water. This rubbed into the scalp creates a thick lather, soothing and cooling in its action, as well as very beneficial to scalp and hair. After rinsing, the scalp is fresh and clean, while the hair 'dries quickly and evenly, developing a bright luster and a soft fluffiness that makes it seem very heavy. Adv. . 7
