THE SUNDAY OREGOXTAX, TORTLAXD, rEBRUAIt Y 13. 19 1G.
WOMEN'S ACTIVITIES OF INTEREST
TO LARGE PART OF READING PUBLIC
Mr. Itirto. I rnh Hjfk Frasa Naraiag Wounded In Franc Add Blood Has Hair Insured for $50.000 Con
sueU. lhihe of Marlborough. Visit New York Mr. Wynne Decorated by French and Belgian.
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XfX aba in tit dlitmtlc r.
K. hj r;irti-vl from rranr. hh
ha bi fijriric tn ounUU !n
'rrj.- n. f:r a horl rt btr
ill rluro t9 llial work.
A.iU IUoo- htr an oonr of h'r
QUITE SPRIGHTLY AND YOUTHFUL
IS LITTLE TAILLEUR OF SPRING
Dot CoaU to Witlin Show Car WaiatcoaU Beneath Silks Are Combined With Sr Goth and Mohair Mix
lurr Taaael. Cordinja. Tuck and Buttons in Profusion Lend Gaiety to New Suits.
DO NOT imlDt. friand hoprr. on
tha luvkout fur )ur -rlnc
suit; do Cut tint n for a mnoi'"!
Ihal uu ara tirt ; to rl" tn mind
of all ra.p. i :i Mi it liy h purvhaa ol
o ;ri: t.i;a.r. T. i 'rm you
ara f lua to nt lo sj". a for-
r . . . v ..r I of mdrl for "oara
alna.'
kikdf in4l f- "ral knotkuooull
a-.
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ahopplri trt thrrnc lh dapari-
anavl
rha. naw latlural wear la a,
win -. ttlv ahow iol that
hiMta4 w!
n ranot nai.ibit a t ! mttUoUt
botH of th prin aty laa. Kr h
ra..v lalt aur ill b to- diritr an af
fair f.ir travalma and yr
and tha amart sport ult will no! b
ami amtrt enouah for a mallnea or
aftarn.n ta, or tuneneoa at a modua
tsatauraat.
itwrf ! Haa rawkeia,
Tha aleaj manual of th irt suit
am to b l p.-'kat. tia or two
pocket tiva rhriir and srooj aiyla
lo m aporl tlll'r. four to t pocket
aAAB.r it a-.tram.lv knowioc and rbtc.
Th" sk'rta of both sport ar-d formal
taillaur ar mu'h alike, cut In circu
lar or clrcu!ar. r- atria with ldth
of from thra. to fiv yarda at tr-e ham.
and Ih ham turned 9 anru-ly
that tha bo'toned aalkln boot la wait
,.,,1,. fl.jl atharaaa tha .port tall
aUe aaa lha amartfr atit aktrl to
aaak for It.etf. th clraa.v tatllaur
often anh-l!ihea thi skirt wltn apron
Iraparv. lunli: of on aort or another.
ar t
aio
an flounca-a. I are- -. .
add a eonfraatlna niat'rlal
p -.it. ip i.ri or broad-
usually
rlath or mohair an! moroted fabric:
and ary amount of erl.htlr trlnimina.
l-t th av of l"'l"". piplna. crd-
Ina-. .al ar bucklaa 1- it ri
t ntiralv of allk a piea.ins; im.-
'II from iwonrii.. comMnlna a
r'ai-va4 aktrt of etrirod Pv willow
taffata with a lit - rnal of i!ali-col-(4
taiUUk Bvifl wt aai skirl ara
la worm a joriur. rn n in m. .
vunilva Irriwfl In I ho WorliL H'C'nlV
ly bod hor hair lnurl tr a promt
r.onl nrr for !. lho I'd
lo ! thla Ihrouch a curlom arrlrivnl
anth almoai r-u'tJ In lh lo of
hr "rrox nlr. rlorjr" lo njr nothin cf
hr lifo or oaiy.
To uni!-rtanj th Vrlr " ' "
arir lo know that hr hair h
aliroal lo hrr kocra anl that alio ha
n pl.turl In tit ni)"riljr of th
.run m Tna !)!' a Ty." In whtth
film h la)a a Irajmc part. wrarln
hr hair In a fioolne n.anr.r. Iurlr
lha ir:on of play. " of !
xanr la al a rrcmtlot). In ttil arrna
ah la riair4 ti t :rn h-r back l
tha turrcr. Tha draucht draw a atrand
of br tra !nio la rloln opan
ifi. It raashl fr. Had It r.ot bn
f.r ta uUk wtt of Ifarrtnton Moraa.
on of th para In tn play. It U
horrib to tunltnipUt tha fata of
M lllvod.
a a
iJlllan It. Ilyda. a f.imou olf
playvr. la to l riarrl.-J. liar ramher
trimmed .vl-hly with nirroa alde
Plaatmc nia.!e of ribbon. Th akirt ha
two flounce of ne atrlped silk, the
tripe runntnc around Instead of up
and doatn. and each flounce la odsre-i
with the riMwit plaatinc Tha coal,
ba.ird In at the waiatline. fall a few
Inchea over the hip In a salhered pep
lum vhich la aded wlto the ribbon
pleatlne. A deep, circular cap fall
from a acalloped ;oka to th walatilne.
covarinc th back of lha coal and part
of It1 alaeve. ,t the front are revars
.di.d with th ribbon fleatln- and a
collar of the atrlpad silk, also aJgt3
with th ritbon. .
l aar r of Tall-red Wear.
N'othins slvaa quit uch a ll-ab-avlutrly-new
evpreajlon lo a tailored
suit a a cap motif of aoma kind.
Capaa ar any lancth and. all lrntha.
Some of them ar little more than col
lar cul a Ml d-epcr: oilier reach lo
th walatilne. Tha cape may sro all
around or part way around, or b set
In lain effect over each aloeve a
fa-Mon remtnlacenl of the "To.
Th mo. t "r riprlna auit that
haa yet appeared la from iarnrd. and
la made of licht tan broadcloth In
what la railed th multiple cap effect.
Thi effect, however, occur only at'
th back and aide. Th front of th
suit la absolutely "uncaped. It baa a
traiarnt little jacket, buttoned with
lao buttons al th throat and divldlnc
a wee bit below lha buat lo show a
wal-tcnat. or lac biouae. Thla Jacket
falia lo the walatilne only, and below,
tha akirt haa a front panel laid In
thre bos pleat. iut. ah! what a dif
ference whan th suit turna Ha back
on yoi apce from collar to knee!
Ther ar two capea overlapping each
other from shoulder aeam to ehoulder
earn acrn the back. These. In turn,
overlap three capaa aet'from aide seam
to aid aeam acrosa the back of the
coat. Tb lowermoet overhang Ike
aieliiB and l& Ivy uikviUii akul
ho l'tt announrad her enitatemarit to
Vurnitn F. Krlinrr. a youn Wall-
trrt brokrr and a irraauaie 01 iaie.
Vliaa Kyd la a dnuahtcr of tha late
K'char.l Myd and ae llvaa at Mar
Shnrr. I I. Sha (a bn Metropolitan
cbami'lon for four aaavona.
a a a
The Purhea of Marlhoroush. former
ly t.ir.urlo Vamlrrbi'r.- hoa won a
rparatlun from hrr txlad hubajU and
has been vi.H n; In New York.
lr. VTynne, an Knrltjh woman now
with tha Kad Crona work In the l(u-
lan Cauraaus. haa bean darorntcd by
both France and Belgium for bravery
wbile uuOtr fira.
a a m t
Waihlnirton haa loot Mra. Alaton R.
.wlmion, onto Lucy Hoke 8mith. thla
U'lntar. Mra. Simpaon'a huiband. who
ta a IJautanant In tha Navy, la taklns
a poatcradunte course at Annapolta.
Mra. (lir.ioti la a frequant vialtor at
th hnma of ber father tha Senator
from iiaorma.
or. should one now rtfer to it as a
flounce? Five of these flounces down
the back of the aklrt continue the suc
cession of overlapping capes from the
collar to th knee.
Heraar-1 lafrodaeeaj Aprwa Taale.
Another little i"prtns; model from
fiarnard. which haa been railed the
"tiarcon" because Its abbreviated
Jacket and apron drapery ana-Rent
hablllmenta of the Frencti waiter. Is
of navy blue acre and faille ailk the
rather heavy, rich faille claaalque
which drapca so gracefully. Of this
navy faille la the full, short skirt
four yards wide at the hem and dis
tended by a hem ficlnc- of crinoline.
Th apron la of navy sere and la laid
In unpressed pleat. It falla almost to
the aklrt ham In front and slopes away
to a lo-lnch lnTth at the back of the
hip. The little box coat fall to the
4ilstline and beneath It show a waist
coat of red ailk. embroidered In black.
Tlrb shawl revers of the serge coat,
fared with faille, extend Into a deep
collar al the bark. White bone but
ton. and a buckle to match add to "lha
youthful snap of this fetching" ller
nard suit,
A tan gabardine suit from Beer In
trodurea a new Idea In th controlling
of aklrt fullness. Th aklrt Is enor
mously wldr aix yard at leaat. but
moat of this fullnoas I laid In
loos pleat acroea th back. The side
tore hav tab, about at the hip.
which ritend acros to the canter back
and hold down the pleats In trUn effect
to thla point. Th H-er sui? has a
fanciful coal with gathered pvplum and
full sleeve gathered Into the new flare
or bell ruff. There Is an oblong collar,
which hanga to the walMilne at the
back. thou-h In front the coat has
mannish, notched revera and collar.
-ock eta ar set Just beluw the waist
line. If th new suit haa a full, gathered
skirt, unatirfened. aomethlng must be
worn undcrncaia lo give llie annoyed
ftarlnir allhpuetta Thla aomethlng may
be an apron of pleated crinoline at
tached to a waistband and falllna; Just
below the : nee. or It may be a hooped
petticoat.
Flounced skirt of pussy-willow taf
fet have stripe of featherbono run
Into rapines at the hip and knee, mak
ing; a lllit. excellent foundation for
;ha tailored skirt.
Though all skirts are worn short
enouah to dlrplay tha buttoned walk
Ins: boot, moat of the ready-made suits
have skirts In normal length, the hem
belnc turned up to suit the customer.
Style Interet Now Turn to
Separate Skirt.
Doable Hhoaldar Capes Make aw
TsaoaB rl-4THajllae asraai
Ulateaa Talloreal Mklrta.
SEPARATE skirts have fresh interest
now that Summer blouse season Is
drawing nearer. A good model for
morning wear with tailored blouse Is
of dark blue mohair and worsted
fabric, light and comfortable for
Spring anJ Summer wear. Straight
panels fall from the waistline at front
and Lack and the side sections are
pleated and attached to deep well-fitting
hip yokes. This skirt is also seen
in striped serge, the pleated sections
showing the stripes only when the
well pressed pleats riy apart.
a . a a
Smart new topcoats hare double
shoulder capes which fall over the
elbows and extend all the way around
the back of the coat, the fronts but
toning in double-breaated fashion to
the throat. Some coals are belted at
tho normal waistline, others, ultra
models from I'arls. have narrow strap
belt outlining the edge of a deep yoke
which reaches well below the armpits,
the lower part of the coat rippling out
below this high belt line.
, a a
Aprons of crinoline are cleverly used
to distend the skirts of tailored suits.
The apron, of stiff crinoline, pleated
closely hangs from the Inside of the
sklrtband at either side, giving the
silhouette the right lines. There are
also new flounced . petticoats of pussy
willow taffeta, run with light feather
bone hoops at a point between hip and
knee. A petticoat like this holds out
even a skirt of soft, thin wool ma
terial In the lines It should take and
now that wide petticoats have come
back most women wonder how they
ever endured tho eelskln affairs of a
few seasons ago.
a a a
Plack spats are not as gay and
dainty as fawn or gray ones, but there
are certain costumes which demand
them. New black apats for wear with
pntenl leather pumps are stitched in
white up the seams and around the
edi-e and are particularly smart. The
spat, at best, is only .a makeshift, and
well-dressed women as a rule prefer
the smart buttoned boot with light
cloth top which never slips away from
the vamp as even the best fitting spat
sometimes does Xrotn the pump
under It.
Fur in February in Need of
Thorough Cleaning.
Skaklaar Oace a Week and Brisk
lleatlaa; M lib MaM Warn Oeea
aloaally .Needed t Keep loat
Away.
AUOCT this season of the year one's
furs that were so soft and glossy
back In November began to take on. a
matted, dingy look which is distress
ing. If Madame's pet Pomeranian ever
took on the rusty, matted uppearance
of her furs in February he would be
dropcd into the bathtub without loss
of time, but furs may not be treated
in thla simple, practical fashion when
they become soiled.
For all that Is the matter with furs
In February is that they are soiled.
No one ever thinks of using a whisk
broom to fura. yet obviously the fur
coat has acquired as much dust as
the broadcloth or velvet suit, assid
uously brushed every time it is taken
off. Dirt and dust do not remain on
the surface of fur but work down Into
the roots of the hairs, which become
matted because of it.
All fura should be'ehnken briskly in
the open air once a week and It will
do no harm to hang them on the line
and give them a briak beating with a
llabt wand. A nearseal coat will keep
it smooth texture better if brushed
over lightly now and then with a whisk
broom dipped in cold water.
Baked Cheese Appetizing
With Pork and Beans.
IMplasr Hot Oarertloa. Prepared la
taasrrole With Male Hrrad. la
Jaal the Thlag With Mlht Supper.
WITH cold sliced chicken or other
cold meat at the Sunday night
supper one hot dish is always accept
able, and in nine cases out of ten this
hot dish seems to be the honest but
hitniTSIi. fr..lrH bean and fta brethren.
a dish easily prepared these days, when
the beans, pork and all,. come ready in
a can to be heated up for tea.
Hakea cneese la appeiizinpr. iisi nu
.. . 1 1 . nnn tnakn a de
lirious side dish, served piping hot.
Place three or lour Slices 01 im oreau,
w.ll ktitl..rer1 In tile bottom Of the
casserole or earthen baking dish. Beat
up two egES and stir In a cup of milk,
u.. ...Hv a eon and a half of grated
cheese; stir it into the eggs and milk:
pour over the bread ana set in a nui
oven. '
When the cheese has purrea up ana
browned well on top, the dish Is ready
. r. .hnnM not be allowed to
stand a moment, but should go directly
from oven to taoie.
Kraat I'atleras Real Fa a.
An Interesting Winter game for chil
dren Is the capturing of froet patterns.
It Is a simple matter to make perma
nent .records of beautiful Ice flowers.
Make Vl small quantity of 2 per
cent solution of gelatine and water.
This is flooded over a small sheet of
i I th.n tha whole thin- is put
out In the freeilng air. Quite soon the
solution begins to ireese in me ior.u
, . i Tn ..nii.r th dealsrns
VI C 1 w
quite permanent tsTce the sheet of glass
and quickly put It into a dish. Then
pour over every pari, some w"1
hoi. oak for a few moments and
then pour the alcohol back Into' the
bottle for use on another occasion. The
treatment will take away the Ice and
leave behind the tracery of the frost
.. a anatln bf clear varnish
brings up the patty-n with great bril-
These frost patterns mak charming
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eases can be decorated with frost
flowers In the manner aescxioea. nere
a brush will be found uaeful to paint
the gelatlnte solution on to the surface
of the "rase.
t.arrd aklrt la Fear Piece.
i - elation of the srored skirt is
in fodr pieces. One seen a short while
ago was In four pieces, but the front
and back were finished and lapped on
the sides to give the effect of panels or
box plaits. The finish of the skirt could
be made at either the raised waist line
or at the natural waist line. In the
model seen broadcloth was trimmed
with braid, but the model was a good
one for all seasonable materials and
all seasonable trimmings.
Thi year will etabllh a record for th
nm.ih.r or ms(c seal over 641a tcl
vfiapa Uius.
SIMPLE EXERCISE IS
ADVISED FOR WOMEN
1
Stately Effect and Shapely Result
Easily Executed, Short
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Con iti&&
DO YOU go through a series of ex
ercise religiously every morning
upon rising? If not. you ought to.
The benefits of exercise of this sort
when the day offers little opportunity
for other sort of exercise have been
proved many times. Most women take
up exercises In their rooms at one time
or another, but the effort is abortive
a a rule. It Is such a bore to go
through meaningle.-s movements over
and over every mornlns. robbing one
self of 10 minutes of valuable sleeping
time and reniilts seem so uncertain.
The trouble is. one cannot see the re
sult. of such exercifeK until the exer
cises have betn performed faithfully
for several weeks and in the mean
time the average woman grows borel
and tired.
Here Is a good exercise that com
bines several benefits and saves the
doing of one or two other exercises.
For Instance, it sightly practiced, it
will make the hips slimmer, the waist
line smaller, take fat off the shoulder
blades and keep the ne'ek full and
youthful. It is a rather strenuous ex
ercise, though that does not mean It
is taken rapidly: and four times" will
be enough to practice it each morning.
To begin the exercise, tit and firmly
on both feet and hold the arms out at
the sides. One arm, say, the right, is
held straight with the palm turned
down. . The. other arm, the left.
Is held with the palm turned upward.
Now begin pushing with both hands,
one up and one down. Of course, the
pushing is only against the air. but
you can put as much strength into it,
with your muscles and will, as though
you were pushing pounds and pounds
with each hand. As the hands push,
turn the figure from the waist up, to
ward the down-pushing arm. This will
MILITARY JEWELRY IS
FASCINATING AND NOVEL
Parisian Fad Crosses Ocean and Many Pretty Ornaments Are Offered in
Real Gems and Imitations.
ii
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JEWELS MILITANT TO FORE ROW.
MILITARY Jewelry is not likely to
become the craze here that it is
in Paris, but so many of the new
war-time trinkets have found their
way across the sea and so fascinat
ing and novel are they, withal that
the American maid simply must possess
a few of them. In Paris Jewelry of
this sort abounds. In the Binaller
shops one runs across ornaments made
of imitation gold set with colored
glass: in the windows of high-class
Jewelers almost the same ornaments
are to be seen, made of gold, platinum
aui the while metal in which luinionda
May Be Obtained by FewTrials at
and Strenuous Exertion.
r
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bring a tremendojjs pull on the hack
and shoulder muscles of the up-pushing
arm. and a P"U over the hip
muscles also. Bend the figure over as
far as you can. always pushing down
with the one arm and up with the other
and the push of the raised arm be
comes a heavy lift as the arm rises
level with the shoulder. At the same
time twist the head and stretch the
neck as though you were trying to look
at the floor back of the down-pushing
hand.
Do not do this exercise more than
four times toward each side on one oc
casion or the muscles of back and hip
will feel sore and lame. Always do the
exercise slowly, putting all your mind
ami will on the effort of pushing up
and down.
How to IJemove Creases Told.
Let any -wrinkled garment hanr for
24 hours, if possible, before pressing it.
For many of the wrinkles will hang
out. Taffeta is really injured by each
pressing and although taffeta does
wrinkle easily some of the wrinkles
will come out if the Knrmcnt is
smoothed and carefully hunt? away.
After each pressing, too, taffeta is
just so much more liable to wrinkle;
another reason for pressing it-as little
as possible. When chiffon is badly
wrinkled steam it, then hang it on a
padded hanger, stuff it with tissue
paper and dry it in front of a fire or
radiator. To steam it, fill, a bis pan
full of boiling" water and hold the
chiffon garment over it until it is
damp with steam.
During the last year TB.2S1.735 short
tons of snnd and gravel, having a value of
-J.!.st(i,UUU, wero dug out in the Lnlted
Stales.
Mi
?
are set these days, with real Jewels
sparkling in the settings.
One lace pin is supposed to imitate
a sword belt and is of white metal
set with many small diamonds and
nine garnets. A little rifle of gun
metal set with tiny brilliants is also a
pretty pin. A tiny sword of gold with
hilt of red enamel and diamoiMls is
especially attractive. Then there is a
drum major's baton of blue enamel,
silver and rhinestones with a pearl
set in the end. The bugle is of silver
and blue ( enamel with, many small
diamouCs,
I 'l l
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MS
Devoted lo the
HEALTtf.COMFORTBEAUTY
... & WOMEN
BODY-TRAINING
MILITARY-BELT
Welcomed like a very
dear but long lost friend!
That's the reception
given the NEW Nemo
Military-Belt Corset by a host of
slender women who would wear
no corset but the original Military
Belt balf-a-dozen years ego.
Supreme comfort and
superb style for every
woman of slender or medium form
who wears the
NEW Nemo Military-Belt
330 For lender to mediant 1
bgurei, abort or osmedium
tcitht
333 -For tiller Iender to I
$3
medium nsurc . ..J
Fine white couti! Size 20 to 30.
You'll never "slouch" in
these corsets. You will
have an alert, erect bearing; you
will breathe deeply; there will be
no pressure anywhere to harm
you; and you will be
COMFORTABLE
whether you are dressed for the
street, for the reception or the
theatre; whether you are playin
tennis or golf, dancing or skating,
you will feel as free as though
you bad no corset on.
And you will be com
fortable in your household
tasks cleaning, sweeping, bait
ing, hanging curtains or scrubbing
the floor.
It's all in the shape, the
fit, and the exclusive hy
gienic icatures of this wonderful
corset.
BE A WISE WOMAN
Wear the RIGHT Nemo!
Sold Everywhere
$3.50, $4.00, $5 up to $10
JlaauH7tiak-Faiaia Inst it si, Nrw Trk
AlitfleCureani
Alittle Cuticum
DoWondersfor
Mrflnd SMn
The Soap to cleanse, purify and beautify,
the Ointment to soothe and heal.
Sample Each Free by Mail
With 32-p. Skin Book on request. Ad
dress post-card "Cuticura, Dept. (Ki
Boaton." Sold throughout the world.
An especially fine shampoo for this
weather can be easily made at triflinff
expense by simply dissolving a tea
spoonful of canthrox in a cup of hot
water. Pour slowly on scalp and
massage briskly. This creates a.
soothing, cooling lather that dissolves
and removes all dandruff, excess oil
and dirt. Rinsing leaves the scalp
spotlessly clean, soft and pliant, while
th. na r iKei nn a r hkkv i iLiuirna ul
natural color, also a fluffiness which
makes It seem very much heavier than
it is. After a canthrox shampoo ar
ranging the hair ia a pleasure. Adv.
-'J TODAY'S AID TO BEAUTY