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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 30, 1915)
THi; SUNDAY OREGOMAN, PORTLAND, 3IAY 30, 1913. MODESTO UNDERGO COMPLETE CHANGE French Dressmakers Agree on General Contour, Leaving Details to Individuals. MINCING GAIT IS DOOMED BROADWAY'S $300,000 HEIRESS WHO REGRETS TANGO ESCAPADES ON NEW YORK'S GREAT WHITE WAY AND GOES HOME WITH MOTHER. Woman Noiv Presumed to Be Walk ing With Soldier Sweetheart, So Provision Is Made for Plenty of Cloth In Skirts. BT RCBT KLTNT HUGHES. PATHS, May 1. Early In February of this year the real French dressmak ing establishments united In a decision to create an absolute change In fash ion. They were equally united In their (Jecislon as to contour. The line to be followed will be the same In all the establishments, hut each artist wiU Rive his own especial Individuality in the details. The world had Ions enough been victimized by vulgarity, artificial ity and affectation. The bust falling over the high waist line, the bark humped and rounded, all the weight of the body on one foot and the other trailing negligently, the walk adopted, slow, languid, full of rem iniscences of the tango, had deterior ated the divine form of woman into that of a mincing simpleton. False Vogue to Be Avoided. There always are at the first of every season second-rate houses that launch all sorts of eccentricities that are too quickly adopted ami spread abroad. These houses present their new models In a veritable spectacle; they parade their manikins to music, the better to seduce their clients. It is an invasion of the false chic, that has grown not only in Paris, but throughout the United States, until the most absurd and vulgar no longer shock, but still disgust. I am sorry to say that this is the vogue that most Americans adopt, es pecially the young American girl who gots herself up like a Montmartre co cotte. How often I have felt inclined to spank them and send them home to learn to cook ami to be sane. rIs creet grace and modest charm. How many women lack it! One of the greatest French dress makers said to me: "It is the false chic that makes the American woman so ri diculous. In many of the establish ments that are not serious the en trance of an American woman means to find something eccentric for the American, seldom seeing the real l-'rench woman, who always dresses ia sober colors and discreet styles, judges the fashion by what is seen in the res taurants, cafes and such places. Riches Do Not Atone. "The American woman usually is rich, but we cannot dress her as one dresses a French woman." Then those who know Paris well know that there ia a first style launched intended for foreign buyers and the provinces. Then in May, to wards June, when the French woman buys her Summer clothes, there is an other mode launched. It resembles In large lines the first, but is discreet, modified, perfected. Woman dresses to attract, and usual ly to attract the opposite sex. In her narrow, tight-Iltting skirt of last year she would find it hard, with those mincing steps, to keep pace with the soldier boy of today, who in the bar racks is taught the military march. "Winter over and the knitting of woolen things finished, he is coming home for a few days' leave and. it being Spring. one must walk in the Boise and best o' all one must bo able to walk. Then presto, the birth of the wide short skirt, the well-cut pocketed flaring jacket, the American shirtwaist, the su.Uor hat and gloves and shoes. The military girl, resembling her cousin, the Gibson girl, is ready for an emer gency. Bell SkJrt Great Favorite. Callot, Paquln, Worth, Lioucet, Kcd fern. Martail and Armand, Jenny. and Bernard are all making large, wide skirts for street wear, theater, dance or dinner. But wide skirts do not mean hoops or distended in hoop lines. These skirts, though often tour and one-half and five yards around the bottom, fall in the graceful folds of simple tissue. If tho cloth be serge, cheviot, Knglish suiting, Scotch tweeds, covert cloth, gabardine or whipcord, the materials used for tailored suits, the skirts fit closely about the hips by means of yokes or are laid in flat pleats about a belt that is at tlte nat ural waist line, or perhaps lifted ever so little above it. The bell skirt cut in two pieces is a great favorite and is smart when worn with a man-tailored jacket in three-quarter length, that flares in creases ov r the hips. I saw a churming girl In the Bois the other morning In a suit of this cut. It was of white serge gabardine and absolutely plain, the buttons even were of the same tone. Her gloves, hoes und hat were white. Her com panion was dressed in navy blue serge. She wore a pleated skirt, but the pleats were on the hips and the skirt was plain, without fullness in the back or in tho front. Two pockets length wise were arranged In the pleats: they were lined with red and trimmed around with black silk braid; the skirt was lined with red, showing Just a tinge of that color as she walked. The jacket was Zouave, trimmed in silk braid and tiny brass buttons, just as the Zouave French soldiers of North Africa wear. Her hat was navy blue, untrimmed save for two large Jet pins; her gloves were long musketeer, in navy blue, and her high laced boots were of patent leather. Check Much In Evidence. In the great shops and in the street one sees many models of hlack and white check. The check is of all sizes, from tiny pin-head to those as large as in a checkerboard. The skirts are am ple, simple bell shape, if worn with the three-quartered flaring jacket and pleated if worn with the norfolk another black and white check Is bound all around the hemless skirt included with a narrow black silk braid. These suits are stylish, but I find them common looking. The nicest black and white model that I have seen was of small checked serge, the bell skirt fitted , ints a yoke, a Jacket medium length, cut In a three- piece back and holding the fullness over the hips, set-In pockets and but toned with steel ball buttons. The collar and cuffs were as we see on a man's coat. With this was worn a white hat and shoes and gloves. This girl -had a big bunch of purple violets tncked In at the waist. There are these three forms of Jacket, norfolk, zouave, and plain cut on the lines more or less of a fitted riding habit Jacket, that are changed In de tail, but it is they that constitute the tailored suit jacket.- The coloring of the cloth used in tailored gowns is most always dark, navy blue by far being the preference, hlack, brown,' mixed brown and tan. There is the Joffre blue, the color a cadet of the new French military uniform, and a cadet blue and a Belgian blue that has the faintest suggestion of green. White naMi1iiliar iistv 111 111 111 111 I!lll!!llllll! llllllllllll?V , iiiiiiniri r- 1111111.11.1"' . 111111111: -111111111111! , lllllllliiy, 111 118111- !' IHi IH"P inuiA: iibiiiiiitiiiiiii CfJ-"'rciT?fiii lillllIIJIIIl!lllli.lll!llllll!I llllllllll.III!lllf.lllllllllltllll 1IIII!IIIIII.1I.IIIIIIII.IISIII!1I 5!lllllllllllllllllll.lliIUH.lll JIHII.IIBIIIIII!IIIH!I. 111111111 JIIIiilllllllll!lllllliilllSli!!ll .ll.lllil!IIIlllll!tl!ll3lilll.ll! ,Sl!lllllllIIIil.lllIIJllilllllil!ll JII.II1IIII!BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIJ1!EIII llllllillliili.lllllllllll. 113111 J4UJWJIIilSlialllIIIll8ll8l!liii TJllli.ll-IHllllllIIIllI r -mm i x- ' iT-. jr jpJ!- - I MISS EUUE5II.1 KELLY. serge is the only light color worn. Though one of the big houses told me that white would be greatly worn later and that "a black and white Summer" was predicted. Taffeta Frock Xnmberleas. The taffeta frock! Numberless as the flowers of the garden are they in color, form and design, and like the flowers, they are unlike one to an other. Changeable taffeta. taffeta checked end striped and spotted with bouquets and plain taffeta. All the colors of the rainbow and then some French colors, added The skirts of these dresses are all full. At the waist line they are shirred or smocked or pleated or gathered and at the bot tom, cut in points, square, round or pointed or finished with a simple hem. These wide skirts are trimmed with narrow Uttlo pleating, . or ruffles or corded puffs. Still these taffeta frocks have the air of being simple because they are mostly self-trimmed and that does not give the idea of elaboration. The tis sue Itself Is smart and can be made on simple lines. .Nothing could be less complicated than the waists of these dresses. They have mostly elbow sleeves and collars of white muslin or organdy and sometimes tulle pleated in a ruch that stands out about the neck. Somewhere placed upon these frocks Is a delightful bouquet of arti- fical flowers. It is the cut of the line that gives them this chlcness. Many have little basques ana tners are Just buttoned straight up the front. SEPARATE PEACE TRIED RUSSIAN SATS IT IS TRUE OVER. TURKS VERB MADE. Italy's Compensation to Be Acquisition of Commercial Influence In Balkans, Avers Sasa'nofl. MILAN. Italy, via Paris. May 29. Ser gius Sazanoft, Russian Foreign Minis ter, interviewed by a correspondent of the Secolo, is quoted as saying it was true Austria and Germany attempted to conclude a separate peace with Russia, but that such a thing was impossible. "All the allies are entirely in accord." M. Sazanoft continued. "Consequently the war will continue until it is pos sible to conclude a really lasting peace. It will be a long, hard war, as the enemy is still strong. Knowledge of his strength, must make us stronger und more persevering in our efforts to reach a definite result." M. Sazanoft expressed the opinion that Italy, in terminating her alliance with Austria and Germany, bad acted wisely. He asserted Italy's principal compensation for her present trouble would be the acquisition of the com mercial influence in the Balkans pre viously possessed by Austria and Ger many. M. Sazanoft urged that Italy culti vate good relations with the. Slavs. Otherwise, he said, the Dalmatian Coast, which had been assigned to Italy, would be a wall instead of a bridge in her re lations with the Balkans. GIRL IS RECONCILED Sister of Frank Gould's For mer Wife Is Sorry. MISDEEDS CAUSE REGRET Eugenia Kelly, Broadway's "$500, 000 Heiress," No More to Tangle on Great ' White Way Be cause Judge Advises Her. NEW YORK, May 23. With tears streaming down their cheeks, Mrs. Helen" Kelly and her 19-year-old daugh ter, Kugenia, known-in Broadway tan go" circles as "the $500,000 heiress," reconciled their differences .in the Yorkville Police Court today, and the charges of incorrigibility pending against the girl dismissed and Went away to their home together. Mrs. Kelly expressed resret over having her daughter haled to court and declared herself ready to receive the. girl back into her household. . Miss Kelly said that she' realized that she had made a mistake, and signified her Intention of being "an obedient child" hereafter. Miss Kelly Is the sister of a former wife of Frank Gould. Her . mother sought to have her committed to a state institution to remove her from her wild life on Broadway. Magistrate House in dismissing the case took occasion to offer some ad vice to the . principals. He told Miss Kelly that Bhe had "acted foolishly," but said that he believed she had been badly advised. He intimated a regret that Mrs. Kelly had "resorted to the courts," but' reminded the girl that her mother was her best friend and expressed the wish that she would re member it in any possible futu: dis agreements. Two hours before the opening of court the young heiress had not only charged her mother with testifying falsely against her, but in a statement In the newspapers had announced her intention to "fight the case to a finish." It ' Is understood that the reconcilia tion was due to the efforts of George J. Gillespie, attorney for Mrs. Ralph Thomas, sister of the accused girl, who succeeded Frank Lw Crocker as her counsel. Magistrate House called Mrs. Kelly to the stand, saying he wanted to hear her story. Mrs. Kelly said that she was "willing to take her daughter back," when she was overcome. Sobbing aloud, she bowed her head on the magis trate's desk and was unable to go on. With Mrs. Kelly on the stand. Magis trate House motioned to the daughter. who was dabbing at her eyes with her handkerchief, and asked her to stand up. "I want to say. Miss Kelly,'' he began, "that I think you have been badly ad vised. I wish to say that if this case hod proceeded you would not neces sarily have been sent to an institution. I would have dealt with you as I saw fit. It was never myMntentlon, how ever, to send you to an institution. In all probability I would have placed you on probation. I am glad you realized the great mistake you have made. I want to remind you that you come from one of the first families in this city. Your grandfather was one of the highest types of men that this city has known. "You are young, and I wish to tell you that your best friend Is your mother. Whatever may be your dis agreements hereafter, remember that your mother is the best friend you have." Miss Kelly said: "I realize my great mistake, your honor." Then she sank sobbing into her chair. Mrs. Kelly then arose from he wit ness stand, made her way to the chair where her daughter ,as huddled up, sobbing, and embraced her. The girl, at first indifferent, gradually extended her right arm around her mother, and as the magistrate announced that the case was dismissed, they arose and, arm in arm. left the courtroom. HEIGHTS DEARLY WON ALLIES CAPTVRE OF I.E I'RETItE KOHKST IS DESCRIBED. WAR INVOLVES MORE THAN HALF OF THE WQRLD'S POPU LATION. " More than half of the entire population of ' the world is at war since Italy has joined in the great European conflict. . according to the figures compiled by expert statisticians. These show the entire population of the world as 1,721,426,000 and the population of the countries engaged in hostilities as 976, 296.000. The composite strength of the allies is given as 817,216,000, and that of the combined Teutons is placed at 159,080.000. How the various belligerent countries are giving their manhood to the war is shown in the following table:- . - Allies. . British Empire 422.000.000 France and colonies 94.000.000 Russian Empire -. 1 71.000,000 Italy and colonics '. 36.800,000 Belgium and Kongo 23.000,000 Japan - 67,000,000 Serbia 2,900,000 Montenegro ' 316,000 Total .... 317,216.000 .Teutons. German Empire 7S.00'i.00o Austria-Hungary ' ; .. 49.J0il.000 Turkey 31.i8O.00O Total .'..I .. 1 3 9.0 SO. 000 4 Offensive -Never Permitted to Relax, Though Severe Checks Were Suf fered and Advance Wss Slow. PARIS. May 29. The official 'eye witness" ot the French Army gives a supplementary report containing de tails of the capture of the forest of Le Pretro which for the past seven months, has been the scene of continual fighting. The account says: "Our offensive never relaxed in this region, although many times we suf fered severe checks, so our advance necessarily was slow. The heights were heavily fortified by checkerboard trenches, subterranean tunnels be tween huge trendies and trees which served as breastworks. "The decisive action occurred on May 12. Although the Germans had brought up 16 battalions from Metz we suc ceeded In gatning the ridge. Among our soldiers who' deserve special men tion, are those of the class of 1915, who were most eager to be allowed to charge, each day asking their officers: "When shall we be' abl j to charge with our bayonets?' Today not only do we occupy the summit, out our lines go slightly beyond.. We hold the entirs northern slope. 'The enemy still clings to the east ern and western sid.:, 200 prisoners taken by us telling how serious wero thtir losses and how great the attempts tht y made to hold tin ptsltion3." MASONIC TIES SEVERED German Grand Lodge Ceases Kela- tions With Italians and French. BERLIN, via London, May 29. The German grand lodge of Freemasons to day adopted the following declaration: "In view of the attitude of the Ital ian Freemasons, who, inspired by French sympathizers, took part in the political struggle leading to the war and thereby violated the cardinal prin ciple of Freemasonry expressly for bidding such methods, the German grand lodge hereby severs all former relations with Italian and French Freemasonry. "Toward Freemasons in other hostile lands the grand lodge reaffirms the decision adopted at an earlier date that all relations of various grand lodges be suspended from tho outbreak of hostilities." Tiet-auwe t'f present rats of foretgn ex. rlianse n rtnliar In Am.-rlran g-oM in worth about 1tl.3 cents In Kngland, 11.1 coals In Oar many and lcll.S cents In Franco. SPIES POINT WAY Austro-German Espionage in Italy Is Widespread. MANY SIGNALS ARE GIVEN Advertising Signs Along Railway 'Lines Give Directions to Air craft, Factory Smoke Aids Fleet in Bombardment. ITALIAN FRONTIER. May 29. The spy mania which has developed along the Halo-Austrian frontier apparently is Justiried by the reputed discovery of a carefully planned espionage system developed by Austriarut and Germans, especially all through the Garda region and along the Adriatic Coast. Every Summer many Austrians and Hungarians have visited the towns, vil lages and fishing hamlets, finding lodgings in hotels and the homes of peasants. Most of the men amused themselves, it is said, by drawing, painting and taking photographs, while the women cultivated friendly relations with the natives who were their temporary neighbors. It is now believed that many of these visitors were playing a partin a great espion age organization. Grent Signs Meant as Guides. There is reason to believe, also, the authorities declare, that large adver tising signs erected along the railway lines, especially near important junc tions, really were intended as direc tions for airships or warships by means of a secret code. Buoys anchored off the coast are believed to have been de signed to serve as range finders for navel artillery. It is asserted that it was one of these plans which enabled an, Austrian warship at Senlgallia (16 miles north west of Ancona) to fire with such ac curacy as to strike a revolving railway bridge. A transport was passing when the shell struck and eight soldiers were killed, while several others were wounded. Factory Smoke Vsed as Signal. Residents of Rimini maintain the Austrian squadron was signalled by dense columns of black smoke when poured from the chimneys of a factory In which Austrians were employed. Signals axe .reported to have been given at Ancona by -means of rockets fired from the deck of a German steamer interned In that port. Reports are current that General Aslnari learned the identity of those responsi ble and had them shot Thursday. At a meeting at Ancona between Gen eral Asinari, the Mayor of the city. Deputy Pacetti. Deputy Boccani. and' the archbishop. with revolutionary leaders 'who last June attempted to proclaim a republic, the revolutionists pledged themselves to give their property and their lives if necessary in the struggle to crush Austria. HIGH SCHOOL DEDICATED Mr. Alderman Talks at Exercises in The Dalles $150,000 Building. THE DALLES. Or.. May 29. (Spe cial.) Seven hundred and fifty per sons crowded into the auditorium of The Dalles High School last night to witness the .formal dedication of the new 150.0iio structure. L. A. Alderman, superintendent of the Portland public schools, was the principal speaker. He urged the need of a broader scope of education and advocated the use of the high school, not only by the pupils during the daytime, but by the whole people at other times. Other speakers were Superintendent Wagner. Fred W. Wilson, and Pro fessor Griffith, of the Oregon Agri cultural College. A musical programme was given by the High School Glee Club. DR. LOVELAND RETURNS Pastor, Home From Son's Wedding, Vill Occupy Pulpit Today. Dr. Frank L. Loveland, pastor of the First Methodist Church, returned last night from Topeka, Kan., where he officiated Wednesday at the wedding of his son. lr. Forrest L. Loveland, and lie will preach as usual In the pulpit of the First Church here today. The evening service will be a memorial observance and members of the Grand Army especially are invited to attend. Mrs. Loveland and daughter Hazel, who Joined them in Topeka on her way back from New York,, where she has been studying music, will come:on to "One flag, one land, one heart, nne hand. One Nation evermore!" This store will be closed all day on Monday in observance of Memorial Day BEN SELLING Morrison at Fourth m ill m C5 Quality W ins In the race for business many firms buy shoes vhich "LOOK LIKE" high-fjrade shoes, copying the lasts, styles, etc., so that to the average citizen they LOOK LIKE good shoes. It is only after they are worn that the difference is discovered, for such shoes soon lose their shape and often cause burning, aching feet. Many of these shoes are stitched on the inside and, in order to deceive the public, a covering is pasted over these stitches, but after being worn that covering will not prevent the stitches chafing the feet. This firm will not sell such shoes. Only high-grade welt shoes are sold by us, as we sell SHOE SATIS FACTION in every sense of the word and our estab lished trade has been secured by giving the public the BEST SHOES MADE for the money. We maintain that the CELEBRATED HANAN SHOE is THE CHEAPEST SHOE ANY MAN OR WOMAN CAN POSSIBLY BUY, although the first cost is higher than many others. They have stood the test for over fifty years. Try a pair. Ask the man or woman who wears them. ROSENTHAL'S Portland's Best Shoe Store. 129 10th St., bet. Washington and Alder. m PI I 1 HUMANITY FIRST 59 What a Vote for No. 110 on the Ballot Means This measure, if adopted by the voters, will enable the Council in its discretion to enter into a contract upon Huch terms as may be satisfactory to the Council with the Humane Society for the main tenance and operation of the dog pound. lTndr our present charter the Council hi n.o power to eoiixirier a contract of this kind, in which respect teastern municipalities and the Western cities of Spokane, San Francisco ami Taroma and many othrr large cities are far ahead of us. The adoption of the amendment does not mean that the operation of the pound Is immediately glvn ovr to the Humane Society or that the Council Ml'ST make a contrn t for that pur pose the amendment merely gives power to the Council to t-Koiiale a contract for the pound's maintenance if it Hee fit to do no. The nmmrl ment carrien with It no money appropriation of anv kind rvo dfh ieni-v In the treasury Is possible because of It there w ill not be a lot- of one dollar's revenue to the city. The Council in given power to mk a contract on puch terms as it may deem proper JiiMt aw It now ha power to hire a pound master and his assistants ott such salaries as it may deem sufficient. A Yote for No. 110 on the Ballot Means Help for the Dumb Brute "HUMANITY FIRST" Portland 1 nabout two weeks structive. While on Ms trip to the Dr. Loveland left the Middle West Kast he visited Df-nver, St. I-ouis and Just before the rain storms and floods I Kansas City, as well as hia former In that district became erlouslv de- residence city. Tof'lu. f ' : . '"--' 'A I " 4 ' LIKF MONEY FROM HOME ' Ik. Kxy 17W o ) SAVE MONEY WHEN YOU CAN DR. B. 13. W RIGHT. ECONOMY IS THE WATCHWORD WE SAVE YOU MONEY ON YOUR Dental Work We Save Your Nerves, We Save You Pain, We Save You Time, We Save You From Fakers. This Is TRUE ECONOMY I will attend to your work personally. This is a guar antee that it will be exactly right. I have practiced 20 years in Portland. I have a reputa tion to uphold. You won't be turned over to boys of no experience or aptitude for the profession. Bungling dentists, and their name is legion, do a dread ful amount of harm. Avoid this risk by placing your work with a man of known skill. DR. B. E. WRIGHT N. W. CORNER SIXTH AND WASHINGTON THE MAN WHO SAVES TEETH WON'T HURT YOU AND WONT ROB YOU. Northwest Building Entrance on Washington Street Office Hours: 8 A. M. to 6 P. M. Consultation Free. Twenty Years' Practice in Portland. Phones: Main 2119. A 2119