THi; SUNDAY OREGOMAN, PORTLAND, 3IAY 30, 1913.
MODESTO UNDERGO
COMPLETE CHANGE
French Dressmakers Agree on
General Contour, Leaving
Details to Individuals.
MINCING GAIT IS DOOMED
BROADWAY'S $300,000 HEIRESS WHO REGRETS TANGO ESCAPADES ON NEW YORK'S GREAT WHITE
WAY AND GOES HOME WITH MOTHER.
Woman Noiv Presumed to Be Walk
ing With Soldier Sweetheart, So
Provision Is Made for Plenty
of Cloth In Skirts.
BT RCBT KLTNT HUGHES.
PATHS, May 1. Early In February
of this year the real French dressmak
ing establishments united In a decision
to create an absolute change In fash
ion. They were equally united In
their (Jecislon as to contour. The line
to be followed will be the same In all
the establishments, hut each artist wiU
Rive his own especial Individuality in
the details. The world had Ions enough
been victimized by vulgarity, artificial
ity and affectation.
The bust falling over the high waist
line, the bark humped and rounded, all
the weight of the body on one foot and
the other trailing negligently, the walk
adopted, slow, languid, full of rem
iniscences of the tango, had deterior
ated the divine form of woman into
that of a mincing simpleton.
False Vogue to Be Avoided.
There always are at the first of every
season second-rate houses that launch
all sorts of eccentricities that are too
quickly adopted ami spread abroad.
These houses present their new models
In a veritable spectacle; they parade
their manikins to music, the better to
seduce their clients. It is an invasion
of the false chic, that has grown not
only in Paris, but throughout the
United States, until the most absurd
and vulgar no longer shock, but still
disgust.
I am sorry to say that this is the
vogue that most Americans adopt, es
pecially the young American girl who
gots herself up like a Montmartre co
cotte. How often I have felt inclined
to spank them and send them home to
learn to cook ami to be sane. rIs
creet grace and modest charm. How
many women lack it!
One of the greatest French dress
makers said to me: "It is the false chic
that makes the American woman so ri
diculous. In many of the establish
ments that are not serious the en
trance of an American woman means
to find something eccentric for the
American, seldom seeing the real
l-'rench woman, who always dresses ia
sober colors and discreet styles, judges
the fashion by what is seen in the res
taurants, cafes and such places.
Riches Do Not Atone.
"The American woman usually is
rich, but we cannot dress her as one
dresses a French woman."
Then those who know Paris well
know that there ia a first style
launched intended for foreign buyers
and the provinces. Then in May, to
wards June, when the French woman
buys her Summer clothes, there is an
other mode launched. It resembles In
large lines the first, but is discreet,
modified, perfected.
Woman dresses to attract, and usual
ly to attract the opposite sex. In her
narrow, tight-Iltting skirt of last year
she would find it hard, with those
mincing steps, to keep pace with the
soldier boy of today, who in the bar
racks is taught the military march.
"Winter over and the knitting of woolen
things finished, he is coming home for
a few days' leave and. it being Spring.
one must walk in the Boise and best
o' all one must bo able to walk. Then
presto, the birth of the wide short
skirt, the well-cut pocketed flaring
jacket, the American shirtwaist, the
su.Uor hat and gloves and shoes. The
military girl, resembling her cousin,
the Gibson girl, is ready for an emer
gency. Bell SkJrt Great Favorite.
Callot, Paquln, Worth, Lioucet, Kcd
fern. Martail and Armand, Jenny. and
Bernard are all making large, wide
skirts for street wear, theater, dance or
dinner. But wide skirts do not mean
hoops or distended in hoop lines.
These skirts, though often tour and
one-half and five yards around the
bottom, fall in the graceful folds of
simple tissue. If tho cloth be serge,
cheviot, Knglish suiting, Scotch tweeds,
covert cloth, gabardine or whipcord, the
materials used for tailored suits, the
skirts fit closely about the hips by
means of yokes or are laid in flat
pleats about a belt that is at tlte nat
ural waist line, or perhaps lifted ever so
little above it. The bell skirt cut in
two pieces is a great favorite and is
smart when worn with a man-tailored
jacket in three-quarter length, that
flares in creases ov r the hips.
I saw a churming girl In the Bois
the other morning In a suit of this
cut. It was of white serge gabardine
and absolutely plain, the buttons even
were of the same tone. Her gloves,
hoes und hat were white. Her com
panion was dressed in navy blue serge.
She wore a pleated skirt, but the
pleats were on the hips and the skirt
was plain, without fullness in the back
or in tho front. Two pockets length
wise were arranged In the pleats: they
were lined with red and trimmed
around with black silk braid; the skirt
was lined with red, showing Just a
tinge of that color as she walked.
The jacket was Zouave, trimmed in
silk braid and tiny brass buttons, just
as the Zouave French soldiers of North
Africa wear. Her hat was navy blue,
untrimmed save for two large Jet pins;
her gloves were long musketeer, in
navy blue, and her high laced boots
were of patent leather.
Check Much In Evidence.
In the great shops and in the street
one sees many models of hlack and
white check. The check is of all sizes,
from tiny pin-head to those as large as
in a checkerboard. The skirts are am
ple, simple bell shape, if worn with the
three-quartered flaring jacket and
pleated if worn with the norfolk
another black and white check
Is bound all around the hemless skirt
included with a narrow black silk
braid. These suits are stylish, but I
find them common looking. The
nicest black and white model that I
have seen was of small checked serge,
the bell skirt fitted , ints a yoke, a
Jacket medium length, cut In a three-
piece back and holding the fullness
over the hips, set-In pockets and but
toned with steel ball buttons. The collar
and cuffs were as we see on a man's
coat. With this was worn a white hat
and shoes and gloves. This girl -had a
big bunch of purple violets tncked
In at the waist.
There are these three forms of Jacket,
norfolk, zouave, and plain cut on the
lines more or less of a fitted riding
habit Jacket, that are changed In de
tail, but it is they that constitute the
tailored suit jacket.- The coloring of
the cloth used in tailored gowns is
most always dark, navy blue by far
being the preference, hlack, brown,'
mixed brown and tan. There is the
Joffre blue, the color a cadet of the
new French military uniform, and a
cadet blue and a Belgian blue that has
the faintest suggestion of green. White
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MISS EUUE5II.1 KELLY.
serge is the only light color worn.
Though one of the big houses told me
that white would be greatly worn later
and that "a black and white Summer"
was predicted.
Taffeta Frock Xnmberleas.
The taffeta frock! Numberless as
the flowers of the garden are they in
color, form and design, and like the
flowers, they are unlike one to an
other. Changeable taffeta. taffeta
checked end striped and spotted with
bouquets and plain taffeta. All the
colors of the rainbow and then some
French colors, added The skirts of
these dresses are all full. At the waist
line they are shirred or smocked or
pleated or gathered and at the bot
tom, cut in points, square, round or
pointed or finished with a simple hem.
These wide skirts are trimmed with
narrow Uttlo pleating, . or ruffles or
corded puffs.
Still these taffeta frocks have the
air of being simple because they are
mostly self-trimmed and that does not
give the idea of elaboration. The tis
sue Itself Is smart and can be made
on simple lines. .Nothing could be less
complicated than the waists of these
dresses. They have mostly elbow
sleeves and collars of white muslin
or organdy and sometimes tulle pleated
in a ruch that stands out about the
neck. Somewhere placed upon these
frocks Is a delightful bouquet of arti-
fical flowers. It is the cut of the line
that gives them this chlcness. Many
have little basques ana tners are
Just buttoned straight up the front.
SEPARATE PEACE TRIED
RUSSIAN SATS IT IS TRUE OVER.
TURKS VERB MADE.
Italy's Compensation to Be Acquisition
of Commercial Influence In Balkans,
Avers Sasa'nofl.
MILAN. Italy, via Paris. May 29. Ser
gius Sazanoft, Russian Foreign Minis
ter, interviewed by a correspondent of
the Secolo, is quoted as saying it was
true Austria and Germany attempted to
conclude a separate peace with Russia,
but that such a thing was impossible.
"All the allies are entirely in accord."
M. Sazanoft continued. "Consequently
the war will continue until it is pos
sible to conclude a really lasting peace.
It will be a long, hard war, as the
enemy is still strong. Knowledge of his
strength, must make us stronger und
more persevering in our efforts to reach
a definite result."
M. Sazanoft expressed the opinion
that Italy, in terminating her alliance
with Austria and Germany, bad acted
wisely. He asserted Italy's principal
compensation for her present trouble
would be the acquisition of the com
mercial influence in the Balkans pre
viously possessed by Austria and Ger
many. M. Sazanoft urged that Italy culti
vate good relations with the. Slavs.
Otherwise, he said, the Dalmatian Coast,
which had been assigned to Italy, would
be a wall instead of a bridge in her re
lations with the Balkans.
GIRL IS RECONCILED
Sister of Frank Gould's For
mer Wife Is Sorry.
MISDEEDS CAUSE REGRET
Eugenia Kelly, Broadway's "$500,
000 Heiress," No More to Tangle
on Great ' White Way Be
cause Judge Advises Her.
NEW YORK, May 23. With tears
streaming down their cheeks, Mrs.
Helen" Kelly and her 19-year-old daugh
ter, Kugenia, known-in Broadway tan
go" circles as "the $500,000 heiress,"
reconciled their differences .in the
Yorkville Police Court today, and the
charges of incorrigibility pending
against the girl dismissed and Went
away to their home together. Mrs.
Kelly expressed resret over having her
daughter haled to court and declared
herself ready to receive the. girl back
into her household. . Miss Kelly said
that she' realized that she had made a
mistake, and signified her Intention of
being "an obedient child" hereafter.
Miss Kelly Is the sister of a former
wife of Frank Gould. Her . mother
sought to have her committed to a
state institution to remove her from
her wild life on Broadway.
Magistrate House in dismissing the
case took occasion to offer some ad
vice to the . principals. He told Miss
Kelly that Bhe had "acted foolishly,"
but said that he believed she had been
badly advised. He intimated a regret
that Mrs. Kelly had "resorted to the
courts," but' reminded the girl that
her mother was her best friend and
expressed the wish that she would re
member it in any possible futu: dis
agreements. Two hours before the opening of
court the young heiress had not only
charged her mother with testifying
falsely against her, but in a statement
In the newspapers had announced her
intention to "fight the case to a finish."
It ' Is understood that the reconcilia
tion was due to the efforts of George J.
Gillespie, attorney for Mrs. Ralph
Thomas, sister of the accused girl, who
succeeded Frank Lw Crocker as her
counsel.
Magistrate House called Mrs. Kelly to
the stand, saying he wanted to hear her
story. Mrs. Kelly said that she was
"willing to take her daughter back,"
when she was overcome. Sobbing aloud,
she bowed her head on the magis
trate's desk and was unable to go on.
With Mrs. Kelly on the stand. Magis
trate House motioned to the daughter.
who was dabbing at her eyes with her
handkerchief, and asked her to stand
up.
"I want to say. Miss Kelly,'' he began,
"that I think you have been badly ad
vised. I wish to say that if this case
hod proceeded you would not neces
sarily have been sent to an institution.
I would have dealt with you as I saw
fit. It was never myMntentlon, how
ever, to send you to an institution. In
all probability I would have placed you
on probation. I am glad you realized
the great mistake you have made. I
want to remind you that you come
from one of the first families in this
city. Your grandfather was one of the
highest types of men that this city has
known.
"You are young, and I wish to tell
you that your best friend Is your
mother. Whatever may be your dis
agreements hereafter, remember that
your mother is the best friend you
have."
Miss Kelly said: "I realize my great
mistake, your honor." Then she sank
sobbing into her chair.
Mrs. Kelly then arose from he wit
ness stand, made her way to the chair
where her daughter ,as huddled up,
sobbing, and embraced her. The girl,
at first indifferent, gradually extended
her right arm around her mother, and
as the magistrate announced that the
case was dismissed, they arose and, arm
in arm. left the courtroom.
HEIGHTS DEARLY WON
ALLIES CAPTVRE OF I.E I'RETItE
KOHKST IS DESCRIBED.
WAR INVOLVES MORE THAN HALF OF THE WQRLD'S POPU
LATION. "
More than half of the entire population of ' the world is at war
since Italy has joined in the great European conflict. . according to
the figures compiled by expert statisticians.
These show the entire population of the world as 1,721,426,000
and the population of the countries engaged in hostilities as 976,
296.000. The composite strength of the allies is given as 817,216,000, and
that of the combined Teutons is placed at 159,080.000.
How the various belligerent countries are giving their manhood
to the war is shown in the following table:- .
- Allies. .
British Empire 422.000.000
France and colonies 94.000.000
Russian Empire -. 1 71.000,000
Italy and colonics '. 36.800,000
Belgium and Kongo 23.000,000
Japan - 67,000,000
Serbia 2,900,000
Montenegro ' 316,000
Total .... 317,216.000
.Teutons.
German Empire 7S.00'i.00o
Austria-Hungary ' ; .. 49.J0il.000
Turkey 31.i8O.00O
Total .'..I .. 1 3 9.0 SO. 000
4
Offensive -Never Permitted to Relax,
Though Severe Checks Were Suf
fered and Advance Wss Slow.
PARIS. May 29. The official 'eye
witness" ot the French Army gives a
supplementary report containing de
tails of the capture of the forest
of Le Pretro which for the past
seven months, has been the scene of
continual fighting. The account says:
"Our offensive never relaxed in this
region, although many times we suf
fered severe checks, so our advance
necessarily was slow. The heights
were heavily fortified by checkerboard
trenches, subterranean tunnels be
tween huge trendies and trees which
served as breastworks.
"The decisive action occurred on May
12. Although the Germans had brought
up 16 battalions from Metz we suc
ceeded In gatning the ridge. Among
our soldiers who' deserve special men
tion, are those of the class of 1915, who
were most eager to be allowed to
charge, each day asking their officers:
"When shall we be' abl j to charge with
our bayonets?' Today not only do we
occupy the summit, out our lines go
slightly beyond.. We hold the entirs
northern slope.
'The enemy still clings to the east
ern and western sid.:, 200 prisoners
taken by us telling how serious wero
thtir losses and how great the attempts
tht y made to hold tin ptsltion3."
MASONIC TIES SEVERED
German Grand Lodge Ceases Kela-
tions With Italians and French.
BERLIN, via London, May 29. The
German grand lodge of Freemasons to
day adopted the following declaration:
"In view of the attitude of the Ital
ian Freemasons, who, inspired by
French sympathizers, took part in the
political struggle leading to the war
and thereby violated the cardinal prin
ciple of Freemasonry expressly for
bidding such methods, the German
grand lodge hereby severs all former
relations with Italian and French
Freemasonry.
"Toward Freemasons in other hostile
lands the grand lodge reaffirms the
decision adopted at an earlier date that
all relations of various grand lodges
be suspended from tho outbreak of
hostilities."
Tiet-auwe t'f present rats of foretgn ex.
rlianse n rtnliar In Am.-rlran g-oM in worth
about 1tl.3 cents In Kngland, 11.1 coals In
Oar many and lcll.S cents In Franco.
SPIES POINT WAY
Austro-German Espionage in
Italy Is Widespread.
MANY SIGNALS ARE GIVEN
Advertising Signs Along Railway
'Lines Give Directions to Air
craft, Factory Smoke Aids
Fleet in Bombardment.
ITALIAN FRONTIER. May 29. The
spy mania which has developed along
the Halo-Austrian frontier apparently
is Justiried by the reputed discovery of
a carefully planned espionage system
developed by Austriarut and Germans,
especially all through the Garda region
and along the Adriatic Coast.
Every Summer many Austrians and
Hungarians have visited the towns, vil
lages and fishing hamlets, finding
lodgings in hotels and the homes of
peasants. Most of the men amused
themselves, it is said, by drawing,
painting and taking photographs,
while the women cultivated friendly
relations with the natives who were
their temporary neighbors. It is now
believed that many of these visitors
were playing a partin a great espion
age organization.
Grent Signs Meant as Guides.
There is reason to believe, also, the
authorities declare, that large adver
tising signs erected along the railway
lines, especially near important junc
tions, really were intended as direc
tions for airships or warships by means
of a secret code. Buoys anchored off
the coast are believed to have been de
signed to serve as range finders for
navel artillery.
It is asserted that it was one of
these plans which enabled an, Austrian
warship at Senlgallia (16 miles north
west of Ancona) to fire with such ac
curacy as to strike a revolving railway
bridge. A transport was passing when
the shell struck and eight soldiers were
killed, while several others were
wounded.
Factory Smoke Vsed as Signal.
Residents of Rimini maintain the
Austrian squadron was signalled by
dense columns of black smoke when
poured from the chimneys of a factory
In which Austrians were employed.
Signals axe .reported to have been
given at Ancona by -means of rockets
fired from the deck of a German
steamer interned In that port. Reports
are current that General Aslnari
learned the identity of those responsi
ble and had them shot Thursday.
At a meeting at Ancona between Gen
eral Asinari, the Mayor of the city.
Deputy Pacetti. Deputy Boccani. and'
the archbishop. with revolutionary
leaders 'who last June attempted to
proclaim a republic, the revolutionists
pledged themselves to give their
property and their lives if necessary
in the struggle to crush Austria.
HIGH SCHOOL DEDICATED
Mr. Alderman Talks at Exercises in
The Dalles $150,000 Building.
THE DALLES. Or.. May 29. (Spe
cial.) Seven hundred and fifty per
sons crowded into the auditorium of
The Dalles High School last night to
witness the .formal dedication of the
new 150.0iio structure.
L. A. Alderman, superintendent of
the Portland public schools, was the
principal speaker. He urged the need
of a broader scope of education and
advocated the use of the high school,
not only by the pupils during the
daytime, but by the whole people at
other times.
Other speakers were Superintendent
Wagner. Fred W. Wilson, and Pro
fessor Griffith, of the Oregon Agri
cultural College. A musical programme
was given by the High School Glee
Club.
DR. LOVELAND RETURNS
Pastor, Home From Son's Wedding,
Vill Occupy Pulpit Today.
Dr. Frank L. Loveland, pastor of the
First Methodist Church, returned last
night from Topeka, Kan., where he
officiated Wednesday at the wedding
of his son. lr. Forrest L. Loveland,
and lie will preach as usual In the
pulpit of the First Church here today.
The evening service will be a memorial
observance and members of the Grand
Army especially are invited to attend.
Mrs. Loveland and daughter Hazel,
who Joined them in Topeka on her way
back from New York,, where she has
been studying music, will come:on to
"One flag, one land, one heart, nne hand.
One Nation evermore!"
This store will be closed
all day on Monday in
observance of
Memorial
Day
BEN SELLING
Morrison at Fourth
m
ill
m
C5
Quality W ins
In the race for business many firms buy shoes vhich
"LOOK LIKE" high-fjrade shoes, copying the lasts,
styles, etc., so that to the average citizen they LOOK
LIKE good shoes.
It is only after they are worn that the difference
is discovered, for such shoes soon lose their shape
and often cause burning, aching feet.
Many of these shoes are stitched on the inside and,
in order to deceive the public, a covering is pasted over
these stitches, but after being worn that covering will
not prevent the stitches chafing the feet.
This firm will not sell such shoes. Only high-grade
welt shoes are sold by us, as we sell SHOE SATIS
FACTION in every sense of the word and our estab
lished trade has been secured by giving the public the
BEST SHOES MADE for the money.
We maintain that the CELEBRATED HANAN SHOE
is THE CHEAPEST SHOE ANY MAN OR WOMAN
CAN POSSIBLY BUY, although the first cost is higher
than many others. They have stood the test for over
fifty years. Try a pair.
Ask the man or woman who wears them.
ROSENTHAL'S
Portland's Best Shoe Store.
129 10th St., bet. Washington and Alder.
m
PI I
1
HUMANITY FIRST
59
What a Vote for No. 110 on the Ballot Means
This measure, if adopted by the voters, will enable the Council
in its discretion to enter into a contract upon Huch terms as may be
satisfactory to the Council with the Humane Society for the main
tenance and operation of the dog pound.
lTndr our present charter the Council hi n.o power to eoiixirier a
contract of this kind, in which respect teastern municipalities and the
Western cities of Spokane, San Francisco ami Taroma and many othrr
large cities are far ahead of us. The adoption of the amendment does not
mean that the operation of the pound Is immediately glvn ovr to the
Humane Society or that the Council Ml'ST make a contrn t for that pur
pose the amendment merely gives power to the Council to t-Koiiale a
contract for the pound's maintenance if it Hee fit to do no. The nmmrl
ment carrien with It no money appropriation of anv kind rvo dfh ieni-v
In the treasury Is possible because of It there w ill not be a lot- of one
dollar's revenue to the city. The Council in given power to mk a
contract on puch terms as it may deem proper JiiMt aw It now ha power
to hire a pound master and his assistants ott such salaries as it may
deem sufficient.
A Yote for No. 110 on the Ballot Means Help for the Dumb Brute
"HUMANITY FIRST"
Portland 1 nabout two weeks structive. While on Ms trip to the
Dr. Loveland left the Middle West Kast he visited Df-nver, St. I-ouis and
Just before the rain storms and floods I Kansas City, as well as hia former
In that district became erlouslv de- residence city. Tof'lu.
f ' : . '"--' 'A
I
" 4 '
LIKF MONEY
FROM HOME
' Ik. Kxy
17W
o )
SAVE MONEY
WHEN YOU CAN
DR. B. 13. W RIGHT.
ECONOMY IS THE
WATCHWORD
WE SAVE YOU MONEY ON YOUR
Dental Work
We Save Your Nerves, We Save You Pain, We Save You
Time, We Save You From Fakers. This Is
TRUE ECONOMY
I will attend to your work personally. This is a guar
antee that it will be exactly right.
I have practiced 20 years in Portland. I have a reputa
tion to uphold. You won't be turned over to boys of no
experience or aptitude for the profession.
Bungling dentists, and their name is legion, do a dread
ful amount of harm. Avoid this risk by placing your work
with a man of known skill.
DR. B. E. WRIGHT
N. W. CORNER
SIXTH AND
WASHINGTON
THE MAN WHO SAVES TEETH WON'T HURT YOU AND WONT ROB YOU.
Northwest Building Entrance on Washington Street
Office Hours: 8 A. M. to 6 P. M. Consultation Free.
Twenty Years' Practice in Portland.
Phones: Main 2119. A 2119