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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 18, 1915)
G THE SUNDAY ' OREGOXTAX, PORTLAND, APRIIi 18, 1015. TAILORED COSTUMES OF CORDUROY ARE USEFUL ON LONG MOTOR TRIPS Woman Who Motors Also Requires at Least One Charmingly Pretty Gown for Dinner and Evening Wear When She Stops at Hotels En Route Pussy-Willow Taffeta Is Always Suitable. IF one is taking an extended, sight seeing motor trip, an informal but smartly-cut tailored costume of cor duroy will be a useful addition t the outfit. Over this, if the weather is cool,' a loose topcoat may bo donned in the car. For the motor tourist was buiit tailleur of dark-blue corduroy with its loose, belted coat and short skirt, slashed and snap-fastened at the side seams, so that it may be used for oc casional climbing if the trip is through a mountainous country. The soft, com fortable motor hat is of blue pussy willow taffeta, faced with white, and the very attractive touring costume Is completed by the new high walking boots of white buck, with snappy stitching in black. The woman who motors requires at least one charmingly pretty, gown for dinner and. evening wear in hotels where she stops en route. The dainty Rown pictured was designed expressly for this purpose. Of soft pussy willow taffeta in pale tan shade, and butterfly marquisette of the snme tint It may be folded into the automobile trunk without danger of injury. The lace bodice unci tunic are creamy in tone, and cream-tinted goldenrod satin was used for the flat cuffs and for the upper part of the skirt, under the transparent layers of cream lace and tan butterfly marquisette. This dainty blouse of taupe-colored goldenrod satin and daphne silk will add formality to the tailored skirt that with a simple tub blouse was informal and correct with the motor coat in the morning. Taupe goldenrod satin forms the graceful surplice front which ex tends into a pointed, draped girdle. The bolero and shirred sleeves are of taupe daphne silk, airy and sheer as chiffon, but much more durable. Tliree folds of the taupe satin edge the bolero, which is mounted over cream pussy willow taffeta. Folds of , cream lace fill in the V-neck. The girdle starts around to the right and is an extenson of the surplice front, which snap-fastens over It at the opposite side. SOME SECRETS OF HEALTH Wonderful and Beneficial Results Shown In V. S. Xavy. Saturday Evening Post. TVhenever any group of people living In one locality or engaged in one oc cupation show unusually good health or unusually bad health, doctors are SPRING MOTOR WRAP IS SENSIBLE AND ROOMY AND THING OF SERVICE j . . . . Slim-Lined Coat Makes Way for One in Three-Quarter Length With Flare at Bottom in Pronounced Contrast to Close Lines at Shoulder and Neck Covert and Shepherd Check Among Materials. TWO things commend the Spring motor wrap of 1915. It is smart. And it is sensible. Roomy in pro portions, with a jaunty swing at the edge, or fullness belted in at the back, ft has low shoulders supporting invit ingly wide, comfortable sleeves. Its collar turns snugly or may be turned down to form revers. Snappily stitched, the enormous pockets and well-placed buttons, it is a thing of joy and serv ice and is verily the happiest idea In motor coats that the years have brought forth. The long, slim-lined wrap for the automobile seems to have had its day, or at least it has been laid aside for Spring and Summer, and it may appear again when limousine season comes round in the Fall. But at the moment motor coats are in three-quarter length, almost invariably, and the Hare at the bottom is in pronounced con trast to the close lines at shoulder and neck. This closeness does not. how ever, mean skimpness or snugness; the material is simply cut to produce the effect of. smallness at the shoulder, with lines flaring steadily outward to ward the knee. Some of the new coats have a Balmacaan suggestion and are distinctly mannish and "sporty." Others have the fullness mostly at the back, a broad, closely-adjnsted belt controlling this fullness and giving just enough definition to the figure beneath to make a graceful silhouette. There is never any bulkiness about these new flare coats, for they are so cleverly shaped, and . their Jauntiness and grace, , more over, are due in no little degree to the keenly Interested, because if the cause can be discovered there may be secrets disclosed that' will aid in the world ef fort to increase the span of life. Professor Metchnikoff's studies of the shortness, of the frock, which displays slender ankles and prettily shod little feet below the skirt-and flaring motor coat. - The most distinguished motor coats are of covert; but a really good-looking covert coat . is rather expensive and many women prefer coats of mixed worsted in neutral tone, or of shepherd checked serge, cut -on the prevailing lines. A covert cloth motor wrap in which an Easter bride departed on her honeymoon had all the fullness at the back, the gathers being covered by the overlap of a narrow stitched . yoke scarcely deeper than a collar. The fronts of this coat were perfectly flat and a wide stitched belt passing all around the low waistline gave just the right flat line to the full back. This coat had enormously wide sleeves gath ered at the wrist in bishop fashion un der a turned-back cuff, but the top of the sleeve was set perfectly flat into a low shoulder. - A lining of green a"nd white striped pussy willow taffeta gave the requisite touch of good cheer to this sport coat. The shepherd check coats are Im mensely smart, but they are so popu lar at the season's beginning that the woman who invests in one may be sorry later on, when she meets her replica in almost every car she passes along the road. The large block checks are most effective in the sport type of coat designed for automobiling. Sometime these coats are unlined or there may be a lining. of bright-colored pussy willow taffeta or of satin. The Summer motor coats - are not arousing so much 'interest just yet, as longevity of certain groups of Bulga rian peasants have been .of great prac tical value to physicians everywhere, and the study of beri-berl among Orien tals has disclosed the dangers of too limited diet, deficient in some essentials of food, which had never before been definitely understood. The excessive meat diet of the Kskimos has come In for study, while a recent Scotch Inves tigation, which has attracted wide at tention, was based on the apparent greater prevalence of cancer among Scotch people who lived in districts where coal is burned. The officers of the American Navy have been pointed out as a remarkably healthful class by Dr. I. L. von Wede kind, commanding the hospital ship So lace, and he has advanced as the ex planation the fact that these officers drink distilled water when on sea duty. The health records of the Navy show that the officers are remarkably free from old age or premature old age trou bles. Hlood pressure tests show such line figures among the officers that !r. von Wedekind declares Navy officers to be youths at 65 years. Blood pressure in creases with advancing age and high blood pressure for one's years indicates abnormal conditions, though not neces sarily serious conditions. The Navy officers give figures rather under the normal. Hardening of the arteries, the old age disease, is mark edly absent in the Navy, and in 1913 there was only one death from apoplexy among all the officers. On board Navy vessels distilled water Is used almost exclusively and Dr. von Wedekind's studies have convinced him that this is the explanation. Perpetual Peace Sign. Pathfinder. On the boundary line between Argen Una and Chile, 12,000 feet above sea level, there has been erected the Christ -of the Andes, a huge monument in com memoration of the peace treaty be tween the two countries, which was signed under the arbitration of King Ldward of Great Britain. The statue, which was built through the co-opera tion of the two countries and was un veiled in 1904, has for a base a huge block of marble, on the sides of which are inscriptions pledging perpetual peace between the two countries. The base Is surmounted by a large bronze figure of Christ, one hand holding the cross and the other raised as if to give a blessing. the heavier models for Spring wear must be all wool, for Spring often sends chilly days and nights. Some good looking Summer motor coats are being shown, however, and they are all In the sporty, semi-mannish lines now fa vored. An admirable model is of mo hair and worsted mixtures in golden tan color, with lining of checkerboard black and white pussy willow silk. This coat has an extreme flare cut and is tailored like a man's smart box coat. The collar may be turned down on the shoulders or snap-fastened high about the throat in military style. Motor coats of khaki-kool. a delightful all silk weave, heavy enough to take ex cellent coat lines, are being shown by exclusive tailors. These khaki-kool coats are most at tractive in a pearly white tint with huge "buttons of white pearl. They are shown in sand and putty tones, in gun metal gray and in tan striped with nar row lines of navy blue. A coat of the latter sort has. a double-breasted front, huge buttoned-down pockets and wide, effective collar and cuffs of the ma terial. Inside is a lining of navy blue goldenrod which gives just the right color touch to the striped tan and blue coat. Few women now wear the long, heavy motor veil of chiffon, swathed about hat and head, except on long tours, when dust must be kept carefully from the skin. In town a small, smart motor hat, not a bonnet, anchored adequately with a well-adjusted face veil, is con sidered enough protection to complex ion and hair, for such trlns about town 'are not for long duration and ravages to the complexion may be speedily re paired, whereas on a long trip one may have to face wind, dust and sun for hours and hours at a stretch before the soothing balm of warm water, cold cream and talcum can freshen the skin. White veils are particularly liked with the motor coat and hat, for they are more informal than the black face veil. There is not much choice in meshes, as far as protection of the complexion is concerned, as none of these veils ac tually protect the skin from flying dust. Either an octagon mesh or one of the new filadora or trellis patterns, ar ranged neatly and pinned back closely, will be correct. Floating, bordered veils, though smart with street costumes, are not proper for the automobile. Under the loose coat Is worn a tai lored trotter frock or a separate skirt in one of the new flare styles and a blouse. Usually a dressy blouse of lace r net, or, better still, a. little frock of 5ussy willow taffeta, which does not crumple, is carried in the small auto trunk strapped to the tonneau, so that one may have a dainty change of cos tume for dinner. It is not necessary to carry extra footwear, for the daintiest of buttoned boots and pumps may be worn In the car. Little actual walking is done by the motorist on tour and it is better to wear one's pretty boots and carry, if necessary, tramping or sport shoes for country wear. Cretonne Dresser Is Dainty in Summer Bedroom. LonK Mirror Reveals Xearly All of CoMtnme at Glance, While Smaller Ones Reflect Hat or Neekwear for Scrutiny. ALL sorts of charming bedroom fur nishings are made with white- enameled wood and flowered cretonne, and to the list of screens, window boxes, hatbox receptacles and so on, has been added the cretonne dresser, which will be ideal for a cretonne-furnished country bedroom. The foundation is of white-enameled wood about as hign and broad as an ordinary bureau of the type which has a long glass, and sides with small drewers which rise about the center section. The drawers are cretonne covered boxes which slide easily in and out when brass handles are pulled. There are two small . drawers at each side for gloves, veils, handkerchiefs and other small belongings, and two long, deep drawers (or' cretonne-covered boxes) for blouses and lingerie below. The best part of the dresser is its triple mirror, framed in white enamel. From the tall mirror In the center in which almost the entire costume can be seen at once, two smaller mirrors pring out even with the top of the small drawer sections. These smaller mirrors swing on hinges and may be moved so that every angle of the head and hat. or the coiffure and neckwear may be carefully scrutinised. The shoD which shows this attractive Diece of country-house furniture will supply the dresser in any desired pat tern of cretonne, but it is specially dainty in rose-sprinkled French cre tonne, or In a wistaria pattern in lav ender and pale green. Touchwood Superstition Is Now Put in Jewelry. Charms, Scarf P 1 a a, Fob and Brooches Now Afford Refuge for IloaNtx. tC HAVEN'T had a cold this season,' I you say and then, remembering the dire consequences if you are su perstitious of such boasting, you look nervously 'rund for something wooden to tou -h. "Thank goodness little Johnny has never yet had ear-ache." sighs a caller and instantly yoa urge: "Oh, my dear tuoch wood!" Some enterprising soul has turned this well-known superstition to profit and now one may always have a handy bit of wood to aert hovering bad luck when boasting is indulged in. The new charrr ia called "Touchwood" and it conies in the shape of grotesque little figures made up into scarf pins, watch fobs, lace pins, brooches, hat pins and tie clasps. Sometimes "Touch wood" is a funny little man with an exaggerated wooden head: sometimes it is "Mrs. ToucVwooi' with the gro tesque her J perched on petticoats. This invaluable charm against ill fortune may be had for the modest sum of a quarter. As the "News" Reaches Turkey. Constantinople Servet-i-Fuuoun. . His Islamic Majesty Wilhelm II has made his state entry into the con quered French capital. In celebration of the victory over I'aris, his Majesty made a speech from the throne in the former French Chamber of Deputies. After its conclusion he offered the im perial hand to be kissed by the French ex-Deputies, who were deeply touched by his magnanimity. Mushroom Parasol Is Just the Thing This Year. Colors Are Rest In Cream and Rrown Tonca and With Suit to Match Scheme Is Very Effective. THE mushroom hat may have de parted from favor, but the mush room parasol is very much the thing this year. One of the new models is pictured and it will be seen that the curving of the silk cover under the ribs gives the edge of the parasol a thickened appearance that, in combina tion with its curving top and the handle, which answers for a "stem," the effect is not unlike that of a giant mushroom. The color suggestion is also present, for this particular parasol ' 1 i; Mew Sunshade Like Bis Mum. i Room. is In cream and brown tones, the handle being of brown carved wood, with a brown silk tassel and the cover of brown and white striped brocaded satin. With a tailleur of tan khaki-kool, or a frock of cream net worn with a hat to match and stockings of natural silk, this brown and white mushroom para sol will be very effective. y ........... ...........? llillllllll! FACES OF WOMEN PROMINENT IN PUBLIC EYE GROUPED FOR READERS Frances Staunton Peck Engaged Before Debut Kaiser's Daughter Shows Maternal Instinct Blanche Shoemaker Waggstaff Is "Poetess of Passion" Parisian Seeress Gains Renown War Predictions Far From Correct, mm i m awfl II 'J H : ' Y ffli V : J ' 4f . v .....rt V fi' M n;'4 1 ' -jfsst : NEW YORK, April 17 (Special.) Though a debutante In New York society this Winter. Frances Staunton Peck has already announced her engagement to Vivian H. Egleston, of Chicago. She is a daughter of Mrs. Thomas Bloodgood Peck, formerly of Philadelphia. If anyone doubted that the Duchess AMIABILITY URGED AS TRAIT TO BE CULTIVATED Barbara Boyd Tells Reasons Why Some People Are Cut Off From Pleasures They Might Otherwise Enjoy. m WONDER why the Mortons didn't I invite their Cousin Lucy to " spend the Summer with them as usual in their camp in the Adiron dacks," remarked a woman to a little group of friends ensconced in a cozy corner of a club plaza. "I under stand she is not go ing with them this Summer." There was silence for a moment. Then a woman spoke up rather hesitatingly. "It is not especially kindly to gossip about one's friends." Barbara Boyd. she said, "but I happen to know why Lucy wasn't invited this year. The rea son set me thinking in a way that did me a lot of good: so perhaps I won't be gossiping in the ordinary sense if I pass it on." "Of course you won't," laughed the women. "And if you are. we will ex cuse you. We want to hear." "We all know Lucy," smiled back the woman, "and her oddities." "We certainly do," agreed the little crowd. Fumlnrx In Disliked. "In camp she just fusses and com plains so much that Mrs. Morton told me she and her husband couldn't stand it any longer. And so they decided not to invite her again. In a way I felt sorry for Lucy. A Summer in the Adirondacks is delightful. I know Lucy has thoroughly enjoyed her Summers there. But she has shut herself out from this pleasure just by little un pleasant traits, which no doubt she could correct if she would. That is what set me to thinking. 1 wondered if I was shutting myself out from some good by some of my "ways." " For n minute no one spoke. Then one DYSPEPSIA GONE! NO Time It! In Five Minutes 1 Sick, Upset Stomach Feels Fs" ur When your meals don't fit comfort ably, or what you eat lies like a lump of lead in your stomach, or If you have heartburn, that Is a sign of indigestion. Get from your pharmacist a fifty cent case of Pape's Diapepsin and take a dose- just as soon as you can. There will be no sour risings, no belching of undigested food mixed with acid, no stomach gas or heartburn, fullness or heavy feeling in the stomach, nausea, GAS SOURNESS of Brunswick had Inherited the ma ternal instinct from her mother' the Kaiserin, he has only to look nt a pic ture of Victoria Luise with her first born. She has recently borne the Duke another son, scarcely a year after the birth of her rlrst baby. The new Marchioness of Londonderry was Lliith, daughter of the Right Hon orable Henry Chaplin, a member of Parliament, when she married Viscount Castlereagh. Lord Londonderry's son, in 1899. They have several children, of whom Lord Stewart (now Viscount Castlereagh), born in 1!I0, is the heir to the title. Blanche Shoemaker WagstafT is the wife of Alfred Wagstaff, Jr. She is also a poetess of passion and a woman of advanced thought. She in purt of the women said, "Now that you make me think of it, I know several just such cases. A friend of mine has a sister who lives in a boarding-house. My friend would be only too glad to have her sister live with her If the wasn't so fault-finding and quarrtl some. Rut she says it would simply spoil the peace of their home, and so she can't do it. That sister is shutting herself out from a delightful home life for my friend has a lovely home and lots of friends and social affairs. Hut the sister cuts herself off from it all by being so disagreeable." Srlrinhnm Not Tolerated. "I know another woman." went on the speaker, "who is so insufferably conceited that people do not want her about. Her own affairs nil the whole world for her. What she is doing and where she is going and how success fully she conducts her business she is a business woman are all she talks about. People just quietly let her alone." "When you consider It. there is cer tainly a bit in the idea to think about, isn't there?" spoke up one of the listen ers. "I have often wondered why an acquaintance of mine never is asked about more. But she is the sort of person who Is always making unkind remarks or those would-be clever ones that hurt people's feelings. And she is always contradicting people and ar guing with them. So of course lots of folks don't like her." "When you come to think about It," remarked the woman who had first called attention to the matter, "there are lots of 'Lucys.' But after all, the thing that most concerns us Is whether or not we are shutting ourselves out of some good by some disagreeable habit of our own. "Since I have been studying the mat ter," she went on, "I have discovered that people who have characteristics of this sort as a rule are perfectly uncon- INDIGESTION, -PAPE'S DIAPEPSIN debilitating headaches, dizziness or in testinal griping. This will all go. and besides, there will be no sour food lett over in the stomach to poison your breath with nauseous odors. Pape's Diapepsin is a certain cure for out-of-order stomachs, because it takes hold of your food and digests it Just the same as if your stomach wasn't there. Relief in five minutes from all stom ach misery Is waiting for you at, any drug store. These large fifty-cent cases contain enough "Pape's Diapepsin" to keep the entire family free from stomach disor ders and Indigestion for many months. It belong in your home. Adv. owner of a mapnzinc of revolt pub lished in New York and one of its inont frequent contributors. The W'agstafT can afford to revolt and be pnpHionste, for they are wealthy and beautiful. Mrs. Wagstnff lives at the St. Kegia Hotel in New York. Mme. de Thebes Is the famous "seer ess" of I'aris whose prediction con cerning public events are regarded by Parisians as wonderful. All that she. had s:iid about the war so far has turned out incorrect. She had the Kaiser killed ofT several months ago and the war ended before January I. 1-Jvery time anything important hap pens in the world, however, someone is pretty sure to bring up some prophecy attributed to Mine, de Thebes mid dated back several months foretelling tha event. k lous of them. Lucy doesn't realize how annoying her fusslness is." "You are perfectly right there," In terrupted one of the pnrty. "This sister of my friend hasn't the faintest idea why her sinter doesn't have her to live with her. She complains among her In timate friends about her sister's sellish ness." "Yes," replied the other. "They never blame themselves for being shut out. They usually blame the one who shuts tnem out. "But if one Is unconscious of possess ing such qualities, naturally he would not blame himself." DrotesteH one of ih listeners. "How can one till the fault Is at one s own door?" "All I can suggest."' responded the first speaker, "is to judge by results. If we find we are being gently side tracked by our friends, let's honestly look for the esuse. Let's watch our lve.. listen to ourselves and see If we are becoming unplemantly critical or fussy or fan 1 1 find I n g or self-assertive." "It wouldn't be a bad idea." agreed the crowd. "Since we all admit wo know puople of this sort and that they are more numerous than one would at first suppose, perhaps it would be Just as well to look home and see If any of them are under our own roof-trees." Rently whlli ffnliier through a rniterv In a (-Mlirornia town the visitor rum upn this on a tnmlmtDin". "i wvuid not lle ulway.-' I):i.-aih iha 1 1' script in .me Ir reverent pMfon hnd pn-l!eI. "Konr Grapes " Freckles and Blotches Are Easily PeJed Off If you are bothered with any cutane ous blemish. Its a poor plan to use paint, powder or anything else to cover it up. Too often this only emphasizes the defect. Besides. It's much easier to remove the disfigurement with ordi nary mereolized wax. Applied nightly the wax will Kradually remove freckles, pimples, motli patches, liver spots snl lowne.ss, red blotches or any surfaeo eruption. The affected cuticle J ab sorbed, a little each riav, until the clear, soft, youthful snd beautiful skin be neath Is brought wholly to view. Ask the druggist for one ounce of mer eolized wax .and ue this like you use cold cj-eani. Kemove in morning with soap and water. Many who have tried this simple, harmless treatment report astonishing results. If troubled with wrinkles or furrows, a war.h lotion made by dissolving 1 oz. powdered saxolite in "i pint witch hazel will prove wonderfully effective. Ad v. A SKIN OF BEflUTT 15 JOT FOREVER Dr. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM CR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER Remove Tan. Pim ples. Freckles, Moth Patches. Raab and Skin Diseases, ud every blemish on beauty, and de fies detection. It has ntood the test of 66 and is so harmless we taste it to be sure it is properly made. Ac cept no counterfeit ot Mmilnr name. TT. T. A. Say re said to a lady of the hautton a patient): "A you ladies will u;e them. I re commend '6surau"s Creaai'as the least harmful of all the skin pre(-raUons." At druftvisul and Department Muirv Firl T. Hopkins & Sin, hnps 37 fret! jam; SL,H.Y