The Sunday Oregonian., May 24, 1908, Magazine Section, Page 7, Image 53

THE
STIXnAT nRF.finvuv pmpti a -v-r TtrtT- o ino
fi
.
The Care of. the Hands
V
rvHY often it is the things that
we do not do, rather than those
we do, which make or mar a
pretty hand. This is particularly true
of the girl who lives a sheltered life
all Winter and goes to a Summer re
sort for the warm months. The city
Slrl thinks it smart to drive a team
of farm horses without gloves, and
when her hands are blistered she runs
to the local druggist for a patented
cure. It would be much easier to don
an old pair of large gloves and proteot
the hands, rather than experiment with
unknown lotions.
One of the most baneful practices
mons young girls is the Indiscrimi
nate use of highly scented soaps. In
nine cases out of ten these eat up the
natural oil of the sktn and leave it
rough. Use only warm water and soft
water, with a plain, unscented pure
soap. If the water is hard, add a few
drops of benzoin to it. . If the bands
are stained,' use lemon juice. Do not,
as I saw a young girl do not long
since, take a bottle of peroxide of hy
drogen from the shelf and literally
pour it over the tips of her fingers to
remove -berry stains. .Within the next
two or three days most of her finger
nails broke off.
If soap does not agree with your
hands, try using the following almond
meal in its place. It will tend to keep
me skin sort and white:
Hitter almond meal 6 ounces
Orris root (powdered) 4 ounces
Wheat flour 4 ounces
White castile soap (pow
dered) 1 ounce
Borax (powdered) 1 ounce
Oil of bergamot 2 drachms
Extract of musk 1 drachm
Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops
Mix all the powders thoroughly and
sift them before addtng the perfumes.
Stir them In and sift a second time.
Keep in close-shut jars. It is conven
lent to keep a small quantity on the
washstand in a Jar with a perforated
top, so that the powder can be shaken
out upon the hand or cloth when used
Certain physical conditions cause ab
normal perspiration in the hands, mak
ing them cold to the touch and keep
ing them moist, thereby ruining gloves
of any sort. The following lotion Is
very efficacious for arresting this con-
' dltion. It can also be used on the face
In warm weather to absorb excessive
greasiness:
Rosewater. 6 ounces; elder-flower
water. 2 ounces; simple tincture of
benzoin, 14 ounce; tannic acid, 10
grains. This lotion should be well
rubbed Into the skin, and if gloves
are to be put on immediately, it is
well to powder the hands with talcum.
Mingled with the delights of pick
ing wild flowers in the woods Is the
I'anger of coming in contact with pot
son ivy. Tills obnoxious vine grows
. In the most unexpected places, and to
some skins its contact means weeks of
suffering. If treatment is given im
mediately the Inflammation can often
times be allayed. As soon as you reach
home, bathe the affected parts In a so
lutlon of one quart of lime water In
which has been dissolved a teaspoon of
soda. If the pain Is intense, add a few
drops or laudanum. If you are far from
a drugstore and cannot get these rem
cdles, bathing with strong buttermilk
is sometimes very efficacious, and good
results have been obtained from rub
bing fresh and very thick cream Into
the skin. But all of these, remedies
should not be applied at once.
The girl who has abused her hands
by digging in the garden or by nelp
Ing with the housecleanlng and has
neglected that much-needed protection
of an old pair of gloves while at such
work, will need a paste which will
work a hurried cure. This paste is
Invaluable to the girl In Business who
has just two weeks' vacation and whose
hands have become roughened from
climbing, driving, picking wild flow
era. It will tend to whiten and soften
the hands with the least possible de
lay. At night literally spread the hands
with a thick coatin of this cream,
then draw on a pair of old gloves
several sizes too large and In the morn
Jng wash In warm water and pure
white soap:
Myrrh, 1 ounce; honey, 4 ounces; yel
low wax, 2 ounces; rosewater, 6 ounces.
.Melt tne wax m a double boiler over
n very slow fire, but do not let It boil.
Just melt: now add the myrrh, which
must bo in powdered form Beat these
two ingredients together thoroughly,
then stir in the honey and the rose
watcT. Then, drop by drop, add enough
glycerine to make a "spreadable paste,'
beating the mixture constantly.
Tanning, sunburn and freckles are
much easier to prevent ttian to cure.
If the skin of your hands Is sensitive,
rub it with cold cream before you start
outdoors, or wear a thin silk glove.
There is no heat in silk gloves, and if
worn sufficiently large, they leave the
hand quite as free as if it were bare.
The simple home remedies for tanning
and sunDurn are quite as good as the
patented articles, put up under fancy
names and sold for fancier prices.
Washing the hands in fresh butter
milk is very good.
American women nre generally in
such a hurry that .v of them really
take time to dry their hands properly.
If they would not put the towel on
the rack until they were perfectly sure
that their hands were absolutely dry,
as a nation they would have prettier
hands, and softer skin the whole year
round.
KATHERINE MORTON.
ribbon scarfs in soft. Oriental color
ings, or the pliable Italian or Roman
striped scarfs' and ribbons may be used
for this purpose.
While the lingerie or net tie is much
used with the linen collar, for Summer
wear, and especially with the broad,
turnover collars, affected by the out
door girl, the soft ribbon tie or scarf
will be much used. A very beautiful
quality for this purpose is a soft gros
grain with a satin edge of about an
eighth or a quarter of an inch in self
tone. The ribbon thus used is not tied
In a bow but in a knot or four-in-hand
effect.
Ribbons for sashes are as soft as the
looms can make them, and most of
this season's sashes -.are worn at the
side or in the front as garnitures of
the empire gown. Often the sash
laid in folds and tacked into place,
like a high girdle all round the waist,
then under the left side, it is drawn
up high, fastened in a knot or chou,
and falls, soft and sweeping, to the
foot of the skirt. In net dresses these
sashes are made of net and ribbon in
alternate strips with an edging of net
or lace all the way round. Beautiful
fichus are also made from shirred net
or chiffon, alternating with soft rib
bon, each strip about an inch and a
half or two' inches wide.
One of the smartest of extra coats
seen in a New York shop this Spring
was made from eight-inch pompadour
ribbon, alternating with strips of filet
lace. Such coats are 'worn with thin
lingerie dresses, and are most effective
when cut on Louis designs, quite loose
and straight of line.
Ribbons in many graduated widths
are used for trimming the hems of
skirts, to simulate borders. For in
stance, on a stunning little suit of
brown and cream checked silk, the
trimmings consisted of seven rows of
brown velvet ribbon, starting about
an Inch and a half in width at the
bottom and grading up to No. 2 at the
top. Last season, the ribbons were ap
plied in designs, particularly the
Greek key design, but this season
they are applied in one or two ways,
either running straight around the
skirt in graduated widths, or up and
down, forming points or diamonds.
Ribbon garnitures for the hair are
long and sweeping, suggesting an os
prey, and this means clever wiring.
One of the handsomest new hair orna
ments Is made from black velvet rib
bon, cut and wired in perfect imita
tion of the long pheasant tail feath
ers, with a rhinestone ornament where
the long bows and ends met.
The flat, pleated ruffs of mallne or
lace are in once more, and these are
fastened with long loops and ends of
soft ribbons. Also, faille ribbon Is
made into fiat rose pleatings. finished
with long loops and ends and worn so
that the latter fall backward over the
left shoulder.
Some exquisite effects in bed jackets,
fancy aprons and petticoats are shown
with wash ribbon playing an impro-
tant part. For wear under a chiffon or
net gown, come wonderful petticoats
with flounces of point desprit, decorat
ed with narrow ribbons. If you have
a white silk drop skirt which Is a
trifle passe, make for it a flounce of
the net. with white ribbon half or
three-quarters of an inch wide, ap
plied in tiny ruchings. Circles at reg
ular intervals, or interlacing diamonds
or bow knots, all done in the fine
.ruching, are the simplest and most
effective patterns. These ruffles can
be bought ready made and they cost
from 112.50 up. A deft-fingered girl
can make herself a "dream" for a
third of the price. Sometimes, within
the circles of ruching will be seep
small artificial daisies such as are
used for millinery purposes, carefully
applied with button-hole stltphes.
Dainty aprons and matinees are
made from alternate strips of wash
ribbon and Val lace. For the girl who
wears flannel petticoats the year
round, there is nothing prettier than
a ruffle of wash silk and lace, which,
by the way. does not cling to the form
as flannel does. MARY DEAN.
Fine Art of Departing
HEN I told an Intimate friend that
I thought every book on etiquette
should contain one entire chapter
devoted to the graceful and little prac
ticed art of leaving a house gracefully,
she was greatly amused.
"Why, every one knows how to leave
a tea or dinner or dance. You just say
something that every one else says to
your hostess about what a splendid time
you have had, and then you run along
and say the same thing to another host
ess." Now, that Is a very lucid and distinctly
feminine explanation or description of
the trick, so to speak, but unfortunately
its weakness lies in the last phrase. So
few persons really known enough to "run
Stunning Lines in the Newest Linen and Lawn Costumes
Ribbons and Their
Uses
DVINTY ribbon garnitures seem
particularly suited to the Spring
season, and this year they are be
ing used in charming variety.
Faille rlhbon has displaced taffetas
for all purposes where a plain color is
needed, while In fancy ribbons the
pompadour effects . remain in high fa
nr. The tinsel ribbons which were
popular during the Winter are now
passe, and. barring the pompadour de
signs, the only fancy patterns shown
are two weaves in the same color, per
haps a satin polka dot on a faille
ground, or vice versa. Little - or no
luoire ribbon is being used, but even
on light-weight Summer frocks
touihes of the effective velvet ribbon
may be seen.
Enormous quantities of soft faille
ribbon are used for millinery purposes,
and eight yards are considered none
too much for winding round the crown
and making one of the new big bows.
At the beginning of the season, flow
ers almost crowded ribbons out of the
millinery field, but the reaction in
favor of bows has been pronounced.
The bows are either long loops and
many of them, or they are arranged
in fat. thick choux or rose effects, with
short, sharply notched ends behind the
choux.
For Panama hats come wondrous
TUB costumes this season go to ex
tremes. Either they are extremely
tailored and severe, or extremely
ornate and fluffy. For street, morning
and athletic purposes, tailored lines ap
pear, with trimming applied as to silk
or cloth gowns. In the typical lingerie
frock, princess lines prevail with such
masses of insertion, both embroidery and
lace, that the term "tub frock" seems al-
dressy afternoon wear, coats and en-
tire suits are inset with q-uantitles of
heavy lace to which fancy wash braids
and buttons are added.
Wash braids come In many etvles.
from the narrow soutache and flat Her
cules braids to marvelous combinations
of cotton or linen braid and lace, the
latter set on the edge or in medallions
surrounded by braid.
Buttons for trimming may. be made
FIGURE A SUIT IN COPENHAGEN BLUE LINEN
AND BRAIDED BANDS.
FIGURE C.
WITH EMBROIDERED
most a misnomer, and the sevlces of a
dry-cleaner are more necessary than those
ot a laundress.
While may costumes of plain linen
and lawn are noted for both morning
and afternoon wear, some stunning ef
fects In fine hair line stripes, dots and
bordered goods are also displayed. The
woman who invests in a bordered ma
terial must expect to patronize the dry-
cleaner when her suit needs refreshing.
Very few of the tinted borders will really
wash. The exception, however, is the
white fabric with a single tone strioed
border, and vice versa, the single tone
fabric with white border.
For instance, in linen you will find a
white ground with a border of navy
blue In bands of graduated width, or
n pale blue lawn you will see a border
made of diamonds in pure white. These
bordered tub fabrics come In dress lengths
of 12 yards each and the border appears
about 46 or 47 inches apart, which for a
short woman will admit of a princess
effect.
The preferred trimming for tailored
linen suits is braid and buttons. For
from molds covered simply with linen
like the costume, or the linen may be
criss-crossed with narrow braid, or the
buttons may be crocheted or embroi
dered. For very fussy frocks you see
'buttons covered with crocheting or lace
or embroidery and then finished all the
way round with flat frilling or pleat
ing of Val lace.
Pink and blue in half a-dozen shades,
lavender, green and yellow are shown
in linens for suits, but far smarter this
season are the soft shades of gray and
tan made up with heavy white lace or
bias bands of self tone or even white.
For tailored wash suits, pleated skirts
either with or without the yoke, accord
ing to the height of the wearer, and
cutaway coats are shown. In more fussy
costumes, the looser Louis coat is offered,
with the circular skirt.
The very smart coat suit shown today
is in Copenhagen blue linen trimmed with
bands In which braid and embroidery are
combined. The skirt is cut on a circular
pattern with a seam, covered. by a band
of the trimming, down the front. For
the very short girl, the trimming around
FIGURE D.
E.
FIGURE
banding should then be of heavy imitation
Irish lace, which, by the way, washes
excellently.
The shirtwaist suit Is extremely natty
and shows how little of the popular braid
ing can be used to relieve an otherwise
severe costume. This skirt of ecru lawn
was laid In pleats stitched very flatly over
the hips with many rows of stitching
above the hem. The shirtwaist was laid
In broad tucks front and back, with a
The bretelles can either be sewed tightly
under the outside tucks of the blouse or
they can be simply toasted into place and
removed when the waist la laundered.
The latter is by far the best method, as
the iron's point can then get well Into
the gathers of the sleeves. The model
In which this pattern was employed com
bined grayish blue and white check, with
only a hair line of the white, and trim
mings of plain blue with large buttons
FIGURE B SHIRTWAIST SUIT OF ECRU LINEN AND WHITE BRAID.
the skirt should be dropped to Hs foot,
and It also outlines the entire Jacket. In
the model shown this trimming was of
the linen braided in self tone, while the
embroidery, tiny conventional figures In
serted between the braided circles, was
In a peculiar shade which was neither
amber nor coral pink, yet suggested both.
To make this costume even more dressy,
white linen could be employed, and the
double box pleat down the front. The
shaped collar, cuffs of the plain shirt
sleeve, the double box pleat, and the
girdle, were all braided in a Bimple but
effective design in white washable sou
tache. The braiding on the box pleat
was finished with two ornaments of white
mercerized floss which will wash nicely.
This style would be effective if developed
In pale gray with white braid or any of
the more delicate tones, like blue, pink
or lavender. Lawn, linen, batiste, zephyr
ginghams, percales.
A remarkable feature of the present
season is the use of bretelles In wash
fabrics, and -while this means work for
the expert laundress. It certalnlly adds
to the effectiveness of the average wash
costume for the slender girl. In Fig. C
will be seen a pretty development of the
bretelle design In a checked gingham.
covered with the plain blue. It could
also be made in white, with ruffles of
lace or embroidery and lace-covered but
tons. Figure' D shows the possibilities of
shoulder straps in wash materials and
was prettily developed In white batiste
with narrow Cluny and Val lace. The
shoulder straps can be made from odd
bits of lace or embroidery or tucking
edged with lace.
Figure E shows a "type of waist of
which every Summer girl should have
at least one in her wardrobe. The simple
Dutch neck emphasized by square Insets
of lace is the daintiest of finishings for
a Summer dinner blouse. This blouse,
and skirt trimmed with deep tucks and
insertion, will make a costume quite suit
able for the Summer night dinner or
dance. MARY DEAN.
LINEN MADE IN AMERICA
A Massachusetts Inventor has perfected
a process of transforming flax straw
Into fiber that promises to add millions
to the revenue of the American farmer,
and to make possible for the first time
the manufacture of linen fiber in the
United States.
About 4.000,000 acres of lad are de
voted to fiax-raising in the United States,
but only the seed is utilized, and this.
according to the census reports, has an
annual value of nearly 20,000,000. The
flax straw from which linen is made
is burned. There is no means of telling
how many millions of dollars have been
wasted in this way, but a late bulletin of
the Department of Agriculture says that
Millions of tons of straw have been
burned each year, most of which, In
quality and length, for the production of
fiber far excels the average straw from
which the Russian ocasanu maka the
fiber which chiefly supplies the linen
fabrics of the world."
By the laborious process followed
abroad. It taxes from 16 to 30 weeks
to transform flax straw Into linen
There la first the "retting," which, in Bel
gium, Is done by weighting down the flax
straw in pools of water exposed to the
sun, until the wood or "shive" is rotted
away from the fiber. Then comes the
"scutching-" or beating of the dried straw.
After this it 4s "hackled" by pulling the
straw through the coarse teeth of combs
for the purpose of removing snarjs and
tangles. The softening and bleaching
processes number 25. after all this has
been done, before the finished linen fab
ric is ready for market.
Now comes Benjamin C. Mudge. a
graduate of the Massachusetts Institute
of technology, with a combined mechan
ical and chemical process that makes
linen out of straw in 12 hours. . In place
of the European method, which con
sists very largely of leaving the nat
ural rottening process to accomplish the
disintegration of straw, Mr. Mudge goes
at this work by machinery until the raw
flax fiber has been wrested from the flax
stalk. Then the chemical process begins
and . I can testify from observation that,
using three or four chemical baths, Mr.
Mudge first degums, then bleaches, sof
tens, and in the end makes a glossy,
white and exceedingly tough fiber out of
what in the beginning looked like a mass
of tangled horsehair.
The European method yields about 170
pounds of fiber from 1000 pounds of
straw and sacrifices the seed crop. The
Mudge process secures 250 pounds of
straw after the seed has been saved, ic
converts the "shive." wasted by the
European method, into a pulp for paper
making, and also saves the "tow."
The one reason why linen fiber has
never been made in this country is that
the European process would be Impossi
bly expensive unless carried out by labor
of the very lowest cost. There is no
labor In the United States cheap enough
for this purpose and for this reason
Americans have been sending over $20,
000.000 a year to Europe for linen.
WAY TO MAKE FUDGE
;IRST be sure that
bother any one
it isn't going to
to have you in the
kitchen. Unless mother or cook is more
than willing to have you try this recipe,
the fudge may not turn out well. Fri
day evening or a stormy Saturday after
noon is 'conducive to good fudge making.
Butter two tin or agate pie plates.
Take a saucepan which will hold about
three quarts. Put In the saucepan, before
you put it on the stove, three even cups
of granulated sugar, one cup of sweet
milk, a piece of butter the size of an
egg, and two squares of unsweetened
chocolate. It is not necessary to grate
the chocolate. Stir this mixture all to
gether and put it on over a moderate fire.
Stir It occasionally, especially after it
begins to boll. Boil 10 minutes from the
time when It first boils up hard. It will
then have begun to sugar around the
edge of the saucepan: take It off the
stove, add a scant half teaspoon of vanilla
and stir briskly for about two-minutes;
then pour It out on the buttered plates.
Be very careful not to stir It so long
that It stiffens before It Is poured out,
nor so short a time that It will not be
creamy. The fudge proper is never hard
nor brittle, but will melt In the month.
A Barber's Keen Memory.
Kansas City Star.
"I believe you were in Galveston,
Texas, about this time a year ago," a
barber said to a man he was shaving
this morning. . '
"I was, but how did you know it?"
the man asked.
"I shaved you there a year ago and
I remember that small scar on your
chin." .
"You have a remarkable memory."
"I have. But I remember that scar
particularly. I nicked you there two
years aaro In Chicago." ,
along." They linger and make their de
parture a period of agony to everyone
concerned.
For Instance, I paid a Sunday after
noon call not long ago at the home of
a woman with whom I am on most
friendly terms. I arrived Just as other
callers had arisen to depart, . a pretty
girl and her fiance.
And simultaneously with my arrival,
came the family parrot, a creature of
amazing vocabulary and violent temper.
My hostess had arisen to speed the part
ing guests and receive the new arrlvar.
The young lady and her fiance were
standing and so was I. The psychologi
cal moment for their departure had come
when, as I remarked before, the parrot
walked stolidly in.
Immediately the man began to teas
the bird, greatly to the annoyance of my
hostess, though she held herself admir
ably In hand. Every minute or so the
girl would say something like: "Come.
Dick, we must be going," and my host
ess tried tactfully to break up the con
versation between angry bird and
thoughtless man.
And it ended in our standing there, the
three women of us. changing from one
foot to the other, the girl fumbling at
her gloves in an agony of embarrassment
while that young man amused himself
with the parrot for 18 long, weary min
utes. My hostess and I marked the tlms
on the clock.
When they had gone, we two women
looked at each other, sighed and dropped
gracefully Into easy chairs.
"Do you think she can ever make any
thing of that man, socially?" asked my
hostess, and then we both laughed.
Again, I was Invited to dine with
friends who live at an apartment hotel,
where dinner Is served on Sunday even
ings from 6 to 8. After dinner we were
going to an organ recital, so we had
planned to go to the dining-room directly
the doors opened at 6.
At 15 minutes to 6 a young woman
arrived on the scene, and after a few
minutes was urged by our hostess to re
move her wraps and remain for dinner.
She declined, saying she had another call
to pay. Quite tactfully, a few minutes
later, our hostess gave forth the infor
mation that we were going to Professor
Blank's recital.
Naturally, If the girl had only come
to call formally, she would ' have taken
the hint, for the church was . at some
distance from the hotel. , If she wished
to accept the invitation to remain to
dinner she should have accepted it at
once. But she did neither. She sat and
talked Interminably while those of us who
had begged recital tickets sat In nervous
suspense.
Each member of the family as he or
she appeared in the living-room urged
the girl to take off her wraps and have
dinner but. no. she must be going very
soon. ' It was 20 minutes past six when
she left. We got Into the Sunday night
crush in the dining-room, reached the
church so late that we were seated far
back under the gallery, and missed the
opening number. And because a thought
less girl had not mastered the fine art of
taking her departure.
There Is nothing more ill-bred than
outstaying your welcome, and I am quite
sure that many young people do this
simply because they do not know when
or how to take their departure.
Never say you are going until you are
ready to start. Do not rise to make your
adieu and then remember something you
want to talk about and keep your hostess
standing indefinitely. Once you decide
to go, go! Say good afternoon or good
evening to others in the room, go directly
to the hall, gather up any wraps you may
have left there, and depart at once. Do
not expect your hostess to accompany
you into the hall and stand and chat in
terminably with you, leaving other guests
In the parlor. Once you have said "good
bye," her place is with those who are
still her guests.
If you stumble upon a dinner party,
when you are making a lata Sunday
afternoon call, do not apologize. Simply
make a very formal call of ten minutes
or 15 at the most and depart, as if you
had never intended to stop longer. A
formal .call should never run lees than
ten minutes or more than 90.
If other guests arrive Just as you meant
to depart, do not embarrass your hostess
by going with her to the door as she
starts to receive the newcomers. Give
her time to receive them and introduce
you, then after a few conventional re
marks, you can take your departure and
leave the newcomers to the attention of
your hostess. Never try to outsit a new
arrival. It looks as if you .were afraid
you might miss something!
The tactful man or woman always
recognizes when the call Is made at an
Inopportune moment and times her de
parture accordingly. However gracious a
hostess may be, a new arrival can detect
In the very atmosphere that her call
should be shortened.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Down and Out. '
San Francisco News Letter. '-
Take 'way the gloves, there, BUI,, my last
is in.
T can no more nor will:
Take 'em away "a man can't ' always
win."
You nay Oh, come now. Bill!
You know like other dogs I've seen my day.
ijons wun tne pace to Kin. ...
Well, never mind: I've seen It. Bin. at
least
I've stood Just where he stood
Tonight, master and kins of crowd . and
feast.
And. as a boy. "made rood."
"Boy!" That's it. Bill that's all I envy
him
Yet p'raps it's as It should.
Take 'em away! Already I'm forgot,-
A second-rater just.
Lord, but this sport sure carries a hard lot.
"What say? a half-arm thrust?
Take 'em away In my prime down and eut.
Still in the blood, the lust.
Still In the blood the lust, old Bill that
stays. '
Mere so in this fight game.
The papers bury me in "better days"
Well, let 'em what' a name!
I attll have one or two friends left, eh.
Bill?
That's It they go the shame!
But I don't envy him I'm not that kind.
He won. and on the square.
He foufrht me to a standstill, dazzled,
blind
A picture fighting there
He was. Bill, and 1 loved him for it, too
I cannot help' be fair.
Fate,
Two shall be born the whole wide world
apart.
And speak in different tongues, and have no
thought
Each of the other being, and no heed;
And these o'er unknown seas, to unknown
lands,
Shall cross, escaping wrecks, defying death;
And all unconsciously shape every act
And bend each wandering step to this one
end
That one day out of darkness they shall
meet
And read life's meaning Jn each other's
eyes.
And two shall walk some narrow war of
life.
So nearly side by side that should one turn
Ever ao little space to left or right.
They needs must stand acknowledged face
to face;
And yet with wistful eyes that never meet.
With groping hands that never clasp, and
Hps
falling in vain to ears that never hear. -They
seek each other all their weary days.
And die unsatisfied. And this is Fate.
Susan Marr Spalding.'