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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 24, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOMAX, PORTLAND, MAY 24, I90S. "P BY VAROLII WELLS' MY own subjective London was achieving itself. I have always remembered . pleaiantly. how, Without a bit of trouble. Arabella blew a bubble. nd. with emulative ease. 1 blew a beau tiful, impalpable, iridescent . sphere and called it London. To be sure, a single interrogation point from an earnest tourist would have burst my bubble, for my whole London hadn' a Tower or a British Museum in It. Nor was this an oversight Calling to my aid a moral courage that was prac tically a moral hardihood. I had delib erately concluded I would do no sigiu neelng. Not that I objected to seeing a fight, now and then, but the sight would have to put itself in my way. and the conditions would have to be such that I Fhould prefer to- go through the sight rather than around it. Indeed, it was largely the word sight seeing, that I took exception to. Such a very defective verb! Who would volun tarily put herself in a position to say, "I sightsaw the National Gallery yes terday," or "I have sightseen the whole city. and then have no proper parts of speech to say It with? Moreover. I was not willing to go about my London carrying a Baedeker. In truth, my soul was possessed of con flicting emotions toward that little red book. As a directory it was invaluable. Never did I get an invitation to a place of mysterious sound, such as Kensing ton Gore, or Bird-in-Bush Road, but I ran to my Baedeker and oulckly found therein the location, description and di rections for reaching the same. I soon mastered the pink and gray maps, with their clever contrivance of correspond ing numbers, and with my Baedeker iback of me I could have found the most nbscure. and bewildering address that even a T.ondoner is capable of devising. But the pages devoted to "Sights which Should on No Account Be Omit ted," and the kindly advice on "Disposi tion of Time for the Hurried Visitor," I avoided with all the strength of my un sightsrelng soul. I was often amused at the ingenious (Torts of tourists to disguise their Bae dekers. One tailor-made AmerlcalT girl had her neatly covered with bright blue paper, quite oblivious" of the fact that the marbeled edges and fluttering red and black tapes are unmistakable. Another, n. ' pedagogic Bostonian. had hers wrapped In brown paper and tied with a string. Another had a leather case which ex actly fitted the volume. And I thought that as the ntirte in art Is far less sug gestive than the semi-draped figure, so the uncovered red hook was really less noticeable than these futile attempts at dtf-'gulso. Having, then definitely decided that I should eventually return to America without having set foot In the Tower, the Bank or the C'harter-'house. I dretf a long breath of rontent and pave my self up to the delight of just living in the atmosphere of my own London. And yet. I wanted to go to the Tower, the Bank and the. Charter-houBe. I want ed to go to Westminster Abbey and Saint Paul's and tha National Gallery. But I did not want to go for the first time. I wanted to revisit these places, and how could I do that when I had never yet visited them? First Impressions of Piccadilly or Hyde Park are all very well, but first impres sions are incongruous in connection with Westminster Abbey. What has crude ad miration to do with experienced sublim ity? How absurd to let the gaze of sur prise rest upon age-accustomed glory! What presumption to look at solemn ancient grandeur as at a novelty! I wished that I had been to Westminster jlfcey many, many times, and that I could drift In again some lovely Summer afternoon to revive old memories and re new old emotions. But as this might not fce. then would Mitt. LEVI ANKEMG ttHlP'n PT MARGARET B. TXVKTNG. WASHINGTON, May 18. (Special Correspondence of The Sunday Oregonian.) Lev. Ankeny has been likened to Mark Twain enlarged two sizes, but he take more comfort in his prowess as. a mighty fisherman than his resem blance to the great humorist, and Mrs. Ankeny seems to find the Joy of her life 'In telling these same fish stories. Those ;who visit the Ankenys naturally talk of fish, for their home is filled with illus- trated fish stories, that Is snapshots of ; the various members of the family in the act of landing tremendous salmon, or idly 1 toying with fish and line on some sunny spot along the Columbia River. We of AVashington State talk our salmon just as naturally as New Yorkers boast of Niag ara or the Bostonese the sacred cod and Plymouth Rock. It is local pride," said 'Mrs. Ankeny, displaying the latest set of photographs which the Senator has in 1 readiness to illustrate his recent adven tures with the wily salmon. One picture . shows him (looking very much like Mark Twain, indeed) standing behind a line of , 22 salmon, all caught with his own hook, according to veritable witnesses. Each fish weighs more than six pounds and ; some of them weigh 16. Yet, says Mrs. Ankeny, this was not an exceptional oc casion. Fifty to 80 fish from 8 to 14 pounds is a fair haul when times are propitious. "Washington State and Washington CUy ' might be separate worlds, for any resem blance they bear as to the manner of life, the viewpoint or the ideals which prevail, especially among the women, said Mrs. Ankeny one day last week. "When one breathes the air of the Northwest and becomes identified with life on the fron ' tier, conditions on the seaboard seem arti ficial. They inspire none of the enthusi asm which those feel who have carved - out a civilization in the midst of the wilderness. Ready-made cities seem in sipid to me and the joy of watching mu nicipal development is gone. From my earliest remembrance, I have heard thrill ing tales and have known the joy which only those can feel who have successfully passed through danger. When my father made the Journey from New York to Ore gon In 1S43 it took him one year, and every inch of his way was surrounded by perils, the dangers of the great unknown coun try, the elements, wild beasts, the more dangerous wild beasts, Indians, a thou sand and one dangers which everyone who blazons the path of civilisation must encounter. When my husband came West from Missouri In 1S60, a child of six, the journey required about four months. Now we make the trip from "Washington City to Walla Walla In about four days. My sons frequently surprise us with a visit And it is a great pleasure, of course, but I keep away from it entirely, and study it from books as I had always done. One day a departing caller carelessly left behind her a pamphlet entitled "The Deanery Guide to Westminster Abbey." With a natural curiosity, 1 picked it up and opened it. But I got no farther than the first fly leaf, for that bore an advertisement of Rowland's Macassar Oil! I promptly forgot the existence of Westminster Abbey in the delight of finding that my London contained such a desirable commodity. Not that I wished to purchase the lotion, but I was absorbingly interested to learn that there really was such a thing. I had never heard of it before except in con nection with the aged, aged man. a-sit-ting on a gate, who manufactured Row land's Macassar 'Oil from mountain rills which he chanced to set ablaze. The remembrance of that dear old white haired man. placidly going his ways, and content with the tuppence ha' -penny that rewarded his toil, tilled my soul to the exclusion of all else, - and . he made a welcome addition to the census o my own London. It was pleasant, too. to reflect on the sound logic of the English people when they coined the word "anti macassar." How much more restrictedly definite than our word- "tidy!" Well, then next it came about that I went for a walk. And, as was bound to happen sooner or later, I was strolling unthinkingly along, when I found myself with the Houses of Parliament on my right hand and Wesf minster Abbey on my left. I was fairly caught, and surrendered at discrefron. The only question was which way to turn. As I had no choice in the matter, I should logically have gone; like John Burldan's ass, straight ahead, and 80 He bo dominates the group of tourti signs of almost missed both; but the Abbey, with an al most perceptible nod of invitation, com pelled me to turn that way, and Invol untarily, though not at all unwillingly, I entered. "Whereupon I made the startling dis covery that I was in the Poets Corner! Now, I had definitely planned that if ever I did visit the Abbey, I would enter by the North Transept, and gradually accustom myself to the atmosphere of the place. I would go away after a short Inspection and return several times to revisit It, before I even approached the Poets Corner. And to find myself thus unexpectedly and somewhat informally Introduced to an inscription attesting the rarity of Ben Jonson, took me unawares and my eyes rested coldly on the words, and then passed on, still uninterestedly, to Spencer, Milton and Gray. Uncertain whether to advance or re- TALK WITH COLONDL , DISTINGUISHED rwiGMTDR. ONHER lyxwrnnwciDs jsd her views or I think how much of the picturesquesness Is taken from life In these days of steam. "My father, James W. Nesmith, was originally from Maine, and at one time he was considered the richest man In the golden State of Oregon. He never had reason to complain of the tedious routine of life, for his entire career was filled with stirring events. He took part In the first- legislative act of the new region, namely, the Inaug uration of the provisional government on July 5, 1843, when the executive power was invested in three persons, the legislative in nine, elected by qual ified delegates representing every dis trict, and the Judicial was placed in a supreme court, consisting of one supreme judge and two justices of the peace. My father served in the Senate during the stirring days of the war of the rebellion and he became a close friend of Lincoln, Justice Chase and Stanton. It was always his intention to edit his reminiscences, not only in connection with his part in the settle ment of Oregon, but also his life in Washington and his intercourse with men whose names now loom large in history. The most cherished part of the legacy which my father left was a huge collection of letters, many from Lincoln, from Grant, Sherman and Sheridan, besides the great men who served in the legislative houses at the same time. It is my earnest desire to see these letters embodied in the his tory of those times, and it is probable that such a work will be soon be un dertaken by my nephew, who is dis tinctly literary in his .tastes. My sons have selected a business career and such labors would not be congenial. I consider all these documents of tre mendous importance, in these days, when every minutiae of fact counts so much towards the production of sound history. "Washington is becoming better known to the general American be cause It Is the highway to Alaska. In my residence here I have noted how many I meet have visited Washington, always en route for the wonderful land to the north. I think. Washington deserves a visit on its own merits. We have none of that burning issue there, the climate, ur climate is de lightful, just two seasons. Winter and Summer, and we are so accustomed to pleasant conditions that we take them for granted. We never talk weather. Here at the capital, the weather is something like Congress or the admin istration always in the wrong. "I suppose you hear nothing but poli tics." my friends say, when I get home to Walla Walla, and I make answer, no, that I bear of nothing but the weather. I do not know Whether others have noticed it, but I think that Washingtonians talk weather more than any other inhabitants of treat, I look a few tentative steps, which brought me to the bust of our own Long fellow. The dignified and old-school New Englander is here represented as a plump-faced and jovial gentlenuV with very curly hair. The marble is exces sively white and new-looking, and alto gether the monument suggests the Long fellow who wrote "There was a Ittle girl, who had a little curl," rather than ts he conducts that they often show human Intelligence. the author of "Evangeline." But if not of poetic effect, the bust is satisfactory as a fine type of American manliobQ, so I smiled back at it, and passed on. Then, by chance, . I turned Into the South Transept. It was about 5 o'clock on a midsum mer afternoon, the hour, as I have often since proved, when the spell of the Poets' Corner is most potent the hour when a prismatic shaft of sunlight strikes ex actly on the marble forehead of Burns, and flickering sun-rays light up the face of Southey. There, above the mortal re mains of Henry Irving. I stood, and as I looked up, I knew that at last West minster Abbey and I were at orfcv For I saw Shakespeare. It was not the emotional atmosphere of the place, for thai had not as yet affected me. It was not historic associa tion, for I knew Shakespeare's bones did the globe. Then, Washington must have the very worst climate on earth for women from the Pacific Coast wilt llillillll afclllllHISIll s x - V ' t -'v '1 The Light on 73urrs!s Sronr not rest there. It was not the .inherent, artistic worth of the sculptured figure, for I knew that it has never been looked upon as a masterpiece, and that Walpole. or somebody, called it "preposterous. But is wan Shakespeare, and from his eyes there shone all the wonder, . the beauty . and the immortality of his genius. I am told the whole monument is wrong in composition and in execution, but that is merely A fault to pardon In the drawing's lines Its body, so to speak; it's soul is right. Or at least it to me, and from that moment I felt at home in "Westminster Abbey. Without leaving the United Stares I could have; found a more magaificenr statue of Shakespeare in our own libinry of Congress, but no other representation of him, in paint or stone, has ever por trayed to my mind the personality of the poet as does the Abbey monument. I invited emotions- and they accepted with thanks. They came in crovfds. rushing, and soon I was unqualifiedly, certain that I would rather be dead in Westminster Abbey than alive out of it. Having reached this important decision, I broke- off my emotions at their height and went home. The next day, as the sunlight touched' Burns' uplifted brow, I was th e again, and the next, and the next. The first impressions being comfortably over, Shakespeare and I became very good friends, without the necessity for heaving breast and suppressed tears on my part. I had affable feelings, too, toward many of the other great and near-great. It amused me to learn how many suc ceeded in getting into the -Abbey by the mere accident of dying while there was plenty of room. John Gay, they tell me. is one of the Interlopers, and his epitaph. Life is a jest and all things show it: I thought so once, but now I know it. Is dubbed Irreverent. But to my mind the irreverence is not in the sentiment, but in the fact that it is placed upon his tomb, the responsibil ity therefor, even though Gay requested it, lying with his survivors. Surely the man who wrote "Trivia is as much en titled to honor as many others whose virtues are set forth in stone. But Jf anyone Is disturbed by Gay's Irreverence, he has only to step through the door, which is cloe at hand, into the little chapel of St. Faith. For some- indefinable reason, this chap el breathes more the spirit of reverence say: 'I rejoice that Congress will soon adjourn, so that I may get home. The climate here does not agree with me.' The women from New England make, the same plaint, and the wives of members from the South talk in a similar strain. I have come to the conclusion that it is the habit in Washington to abuse the weather, Just as it Is to say that Congress does nothing right and the administration makes for trouble instead of settling troubles. Personally I And Washing ton a charming city, but then home is home and climate is not- everything nor beautiful environment nor de lightful people. "My land Is the land of great" things. We boast of our great potatoes, our mag MRS. LEVI ANKENY. and holiness than any other in the Ab bey. There is no especial beauty of dec oration here, but he who can enter the The Ingenious Efforts of Tourists solemn little room without putting up the most fervent prayer of his life must be of an unresponsive nature indeed. It did not seem to me inharmonious to visit the Chapels of the Sanctuary in nificent fields of wheat, our forests pri meval, our illustrious salmon which now go everywhere on earth. It is our partic ular boast that our salmon goes to Scot land, where salmon culture was an ac kno wled ged industry before the trees grew which furnished timber for the cara vels and masts of Columbus Pinta and Santa Maria. Fishing folks and those em ployed In the canneries are quite an im portant factor in the commonwealth. There are over 18.000 employed in some capacity In the salmon industry and the wages paid amount to more than $3,000,000 annually. All our visitors are taken fish ing, in proper season of course, and; this barred, they go to the hatcheries, a'nd if they are at all piscatorial in their tastes, they will enjoy aunique experience. Our charge of a verger. The Abbey guide is also a philosopher and friend. His in toned information ts pleasantly In keep ing with the chiselled epitaphs, and his personality is invariably delightful; and he so dominates the group of tourists he conducts that they otten show signs of almost human intelligence. The guide answers questions not perfunctorily, but with an air of personal interest. To be sure, he passes lightly over many of the most impressive figures and proudly ex hibits the fearsome Death who jabs a dart at Lady Nightingale, while her hus band politely endeavors to protect her. But after becoming acquainted with the chapels one may return on free days and visit, unescorted, the tomb of Sir Francis Vere. The Waxen Effigies goeatly took my fancy. Hidden away in an upper room, they are well worth the extra fee which it costs to see them. The verger de scribes them with a show of real affec tion, and indeed. I felt Istrangely drawn to the ghastly puppets, which are, un doubtedly, very like the Kings and Queens they represent. William and Mary are easily lodged in a case by -themselves, and their brocades and vel vets and real laces are beautiful to look tipon. though stiffened by age and dirt. Elizabeth is a terror, and Charles the Second a horror, but vastly fascinating in their weird dreadfulness. Again and again I returned to my waxen friends. to Disguise Their Baedekers.' and found that they gave me more his toric atmosphere than their biographies or tombs. Hanging round the outsido of the Ab bey. I one day stumbled into St. Mar regret is that Sir Isaac Walton knew nothing of the joy of trolling for salmon, in the Columbia River, and of the modern devices, the silver spoon and such like paraphernalia. Another boast which those pn the Pacific Coast now make is that we are sending cod and halibut to Massachu setts. Think of that cod to the land of cod and halibut to the region which has long claimed the finest fish of that vari ety in the world. But the East has long furnished fish food for the entire Nation. The young West is now taking her place. It would seem that the waters around the Washington and Alaska coast are in exhaustible, but we have wise and pru dent laws for the conserving of all such interests, and we are learning from the experience of the older states which have not enforced such laws." Mrs. Ankeny married her husband when she was just 19. The romance began on one of those long journeys which a trip across the continent meant some 30-odd years ago. Miss Jennie Nesmith was re turning home from Cincinnati, where she had been educated at College Hill Semi nary, at one time quite a noted seat of learning, but now passed away like many good things in the Queen City and other cities. The trip was in company with her father. Senator Nesmith, and some school friends, and was made by way of the Isth mus, thence by rail across 4 he Panama strip, where a sailing boat took the party up to the Sound. Mr. Ankeny was return ing from the East by the same route, and fell in love at first sight. He encountered some difficulty in procuring an introduc tion to the Senator's daughter, but he finally succeeded in that and in the more serious intentions which he had enter tained from the first. The marriage oc curred the following year, on October 2, 1&67, and be took his bride from the bril liant social sphere which she occupied in Washlngton City to the wilderness, of the Northwest. But even in those days home life counted more with Mrs. Ankeny than the admiration of the crowd. She spent only part of one season in Washington, and then she found social existerice meaningless, as she now declares it after 30 years experience in more absorbing du tiei. Mrs. Ankeny possesses strong character istics, but the love of home is predomi nant. "I have never joined clubs and I have not approved of suffrage for women because it more or less invites them away from their more sacred duties. I know all the argument about civic purity and the things claimed by those who advocate suf frage for women. But I think that at home women may work all the reforma tion needed, locally and nationally. The mother who trains her sons carefully in their duties and obligations, first to their creator and then to themselves and their country, is making for civic reform along the rightfully ordained lines. The wife who impresses on her husband that she could not love or respect a man who is guilty of neglect or abuse of his civic ob ligation has done a large part in eleva ting her community much more than If she made stump speeches and led cohorts which wanted to charge on the ballot-box. I have never joined a club, not even the Congressional of Washington. This, how ever, I intend to join, pending other con tingencies of the future." Senator Ankeny is up for re-election, and a bitter fight is Imminent In his state. Politics apart, Washington would be sorry to lose this family, though they have not been conspicuous In Vanity Fair. They reside in a modest apartment in the garet's. The window is wonderful, of course, but I was more interested in re membering that here Mr. Pepys married the wife of whom he later naively chron icled : "She finds, with reason, that in the company of other woman that I love, I do not value her or mind her as I ought." Having seen the church where Pepys was married. I felt an Impulse to visit the house where he died. But I was relieved rather than otherwise to learn that no tract of the house now remains. And. anyway.' the house where he died wasn't the house where he made the pathetic entry In his Diary: "Home. and. being wash day. dined upon cold meat. FREE SCHOOL FOR CRIPPLES AT 137 Henry street, in an imposing f-jur-story building with a Georgian porch and pillars of white stone, a facade of brick and long white-framed windows facing the south, the pupils of the Crippled Children's East Side Free School are welcomed every morning when they hobble and hop or are lifted out of their omnibus which brings them every day from their homes. The building is spacious, sunshiny and Are proof, and in addition to all the ap pointments of the usual school building it has porcelain bothtubs, showers. an elevator, dining-room, a roof-garden and a "workroom." The workroom is not yet furnished, as the Board of Education is having the chairs and desks made to order to suit the peculiarities of each child. Some of the choirs will be very low in the seat and high in the back, some will have oscillating backs that yield as the child leans back or moves, others will be placed toward the end of the desk instead of directly in front of It. etc. thus the child with the stiff leg, the deformed hip or the head brace will be able to work under the most comfortable conditions possible. Fine needle-work, book binding, basket weaving and manual training are taught in the workroom and the work done by the boys and girls Is sold. The children are paid hy the week the girls earning at least SS.50 each week of live days. These boys and girls could never earn this amount of money by working undct ordinary conditions. Beautiful initial and other fine em broidery, exquisite handsewlng and wool crocheting is executed for the friends of the school who place orders for such work, and the school management solic- " Its orders from the public, at large. So cial meetings are held frequently, pro viding recreation, and promoting happi ness In lives that would otherwise be dreary and monotonous. The roof garden Is another fine feature of the Institution. Here the children may play, exercise, or study free from the dirt, dangers and noise of the street. Features of the daily curriculum are rrilk-drlnklng, sun baths, tub baths, and shower baths. A trained nurse is in at tendance, and several doctors give their services to the kiddies who are not be ing regularly treated at the hospitals. The school, which has hitherto been conducted in a small private house at 38 Montgomery street, is indebted for Its new home to the late Emanuel Leh man and his family. Mr. Lehman in tended making the gift In celebration of his 80th birthday; the papers were be ing prepared when he was seized with the illness which ended his life. Philip Lehman and his sisters generously car ried out the plans conceived by their father. N. T. Globe. Highlands, and Mrs. Ankeny spends a large part of her time directing her home. But one of her four children is in Wash ington, Miss Charlotte Ankeny, a tall, handsome girl of 18, who will complete her studies in Mrs. Somers Seminary this June. Like her mother, she longs for the Western life, and feels somewhat re pressed and smothered among the con ventionalities of the capital. "I like rid ing where I have plenty of room," she ex pressed ft. Miss Ankeny has decided against a debut, even should the conven tion prove favorable for her father's re turn. "I think debuts senseless occasions. There Is so much to do of more import ance. I like to go around and meet peo ple, but I should not like to make a bow, as it is termed here." There are three sons. Nesmith, the old est, is on a ranch not far from Walla Walla. He rafees beef cattle and some blooded stock, and has large timber in terests. The second son, John, is in his father's bank at Walla Walla, and the third. Robert, is a machinist. All are married, and tiers of dainty little grand children in all manner of postures adorn the walls of the Ankeny home and share the honors with the fish when the Senator or his genial wife are displaying the treas ures of the Evergreen State. In appear ance Mrs. Ankeny Is expressive of her na tive environment; gentle in manner and voice, energetic in movement and the em bodiment of hospitality and genuine good humof. (Copyright by Margaret B. Downing.) THE GIORIOUS WEST. By Emma Vest! MtHer. O givs roe the West, with Its freedom of mind And Urn heart, which in Rreat its the sea; The plains of Judea by poet enshrined. Could have been no more pertect to m. O, give me the salt of the balmy coast air. Let me drink the full measure of health. Let me feast on the viands and vintages rare .Enraptured am I with such wealth. A song's In my heart and It sings of the West With a feeling akin to love's dream; Just to live In this land, this land I lovs best. Is a happiness almost supreme. O, give me the mft of the fog and the rain. For whatever the elements be. The glad sun will shine In Its beauty again. Yes, the glorious West is for me. O, glorious West! when the Israelite sang Of his Caanan so long, long ago. When the shepherd-boy's tall from his clarion rang From the mount to the valley below. No richer the gifts fell from Nature's own hand Than the wealth she has shower'd at thy feet In this land of the West this new promised land. With its milk and Its honey-dew sweet. The Fatal Gift of Beauty. Lippinrott's. The novel reader cried: "I'm sick of the beauties of Enid and Fair, And proudly Lady Gwendolin givs m a pain. Paint me a freckled -faced girl with red hair: Write me a novel of plain Mary Jane. So the novelist wrote, But the novel read: Like roses bepowdered with gold was her face, A halo of flame-colored tresses had she; Though a Duchess, she waived all her rights to "Your Grace," And said, "To my lover, I'm plain Jeanns Marie.-