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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 20, 1907)
4G THE SUNDAY OREGOMAS, PORTLAND, JANUARY SO, 1907. Some Smart Shirtwaist Suits and Their making BT HELEN HARMAN-BROWX. THE shirt waist suit has coma like the shirt waist to stay. It Is of eapecial value to th business woman, and to the woman who desires to economize, and yet dress well. No woman should be -without one ox- more of these dainty costumes. ' The design shown Is of a smart model, and may be very effectively followed. uslnK allies, or soft materials that la. m.rty of tho tafTetaa, ranging in cost from 50 cenU to Sl.BO per yard, mohair and bril- Jfantfne at 75 opnts to Jl.OO. rajah clotb at about the same price, eollenne cloth, or any of the lightweight fabrics usually go ad. for this style of frock. If you decide on fori llian tine, about six yard, will to necessary Tor tho entire suit. This should be trimmed In folds of llackr tafTetaa. stltcJied silk bands. or black: velvet ribbon the latter belna; the iu&re expensive trlmminE. It can be had from 35 to 75 cents per iolt of 12 yards, and 'for a skirt of this fullness, several bolts will be necessary, iiceordlng to the size of tho model. Tou MhouKl use from three to five rows of ribbon folds or bands. An effective way to build th waist Is to hnvo the vest of tho goods rith rows of velvet ribbon running crosswise. .t . t he- nerk, a collar or the same may be used, with a little turn over in embroid ery or lace, or the collar fanning: & Blight V mljrht be made of lace and embroidery. The sleeves should carry out the trlm- Tulufr used In the skirt, whether It Is lauds, folds or ribbon, except not fio wide. The same plan will be effectively used In the mohair, which will make a Jprctty. as well as serviceable suit for busincps, for shopping and for various other occasions. In making- up a silk suit of the aaual CT-lnch wide silk. It will take from 15 to 18 yank and it can be had at the shops it prices named above. Taffetas one yard wide may be had for SI. 50 per yard. In buying- taffetas it 13 well always to roloct the chiffon taffeta, as It lasts much Ion per than the stlffer variety, and does not have quite so much swish to It. mils wlsh, by the way. as most of us know. Is not so desirable as It was several years iisro. only in a soft, subdued manner, like Hie faint Bi?h!nr of the wind In the trees. Black velvet ribbon would be effective wed on. a Mark and white checked tat- feta, the ribbon running- for from three to five rowM the full circle of the eklrt; or, as it dops in some models not the complete circle-but stopping snort where the pleating begins. Tho skirt should have a deep stitched J; em, and the ribbon should be run in graduated distances from the hem. An ndded touch to the skirt would be black buttons running down the seams of the Fklrt to where the pleating begins. A ihcmtoetto of solid la.ee or ot lace and embroidery might bo chosen for the -v ;i ! ft . The sleeves mlht also have a. cuff of lace and embroidery combined. A smart suit of black taffeta would Slave for Its only trimming- stitched bands f Die same stuff, running- the entire cir cle of the skirt, and the side seams should Jiove the buttons running down to the be ginning, of the pleating. To brighten this up a. bit. an ecru Inc. chemisette and collar would be effective. This would be adjustable, and a chemisette of the goods Taking Effective are RY CATHERINE MORTON. IT may sound a bit trite to call the hair "A. Woman's Crowning Glory." but it is Uke the old, old story ever the same. However, it is not her "friory" unless it Is well and Intelli gently taken care of. I have already given you the proper forma of scalp massage. In this pTO- ffrpsBive ape, one may be thankful for many things, and one Is that if one has delayed too long tn giving the hair rroppr attention, one need not entirely despair, for the art of the wlg-tnaker has so far advanced that a front piece, or a wig will help you out of your dif ficulty. Tf. unfortunately, you need a wis, you should bear strictly in mind" the changes in your complexion from early youth for instance, a woman of 55 should not buy a wis of the same color that her hair was when she was IS. Beautifully kept gray hair, or hair tinged with gray 1b far more becoming, and fashionable too, than golden bair on a woman of 55, and the woman really looks younger. After ft shampoo, If you desire to keep your hair from changing color, as you grow older, put a few drops of per oxide Into- the rinsing water. This will keep your hair to Its "natural color," its the beauty experts will tell you when consulted. If your hair, from any reason is dls- ; colored or has become various shades, a ! few drops of peroxide Into your rinsing 1 water, will restore it to an even color. 1 your hair Is excessively oily, the oniy available remedy is frequent shampooing, first using hot water and than rinsing in cold water. To remove parasites coal oil or mer . curial ointment Is very successful the ' latter obtainable at drug- stores. It is a mistaken Idea that the tem poral uso of curling tones Is Injurious 'to the hair. If used Judiciously, not hot enoug-h to burn the hair, no harm I can be done, and oftentimes a woman's I beauty will be much enhanced. With gray hair, however, it is well : not to uso curllnfr tongs. The beat will yellow the hair, and there Is no method of turning it back to its sort silvery shade, when thus Injured. The proper course. In these clreum 1 stances, would be to use curling: papers, r hair pins, or the rubber devices to 1 t)o found in the-shops for crimping, Thole suffering from the effects o! , over-brushlna- and over-shampooing-. i should wash the hair only when clean -i Jincss necessitates, for otherwise you , deprive U of Us natural oil, and fairly wash the life away. It Is possible to treat the hair In shampooing, so as to promote w&vlness. ly keeping It for a time In a condition lirtwecn dryness and- humidity, so that HiTeront parts will be unequally af fected, and., in consequence, acquire varying degrees of tension. One method Is to shampoo the hair in soapy water, In which a tew grains of carbonate of potash have been dis nolved. While the hair ts still moist. It must be dressed as desired. The effect comes as it dries. Another method ts to moisten the hair with strong rosemary water, black m mm mm mm mmmmmMW3 --issmmmm i , ji.i i i.m1; 1 1 ' i , :i u i w iwra it n,HM a jbi :w ; wfi 1 1 i inn wi n; v i i mi ,1 II . b ' li 1 1 i ! . imr, i itr XI F 3 k ,i"iy ! i Ui 1 1 i II i ii Jill mm mmwi www, Mali I 11 SS a P S if liil! Ilili! M 11, .ll'i- Nil ' ii (Uf , J I ,Ulii ;.i r.Ti. (""M.-f Wt lUlilWI.IfflMfHIIflflllftllllf III "rll1l,.J tea, or aromatic vinegar, in which 12 prrains of tho carbonate of potash to a half-pint of the tonir? hav been dis solved. Brush, this in, and dress the hair before U dries, as directed above. ' A recipe for curling: the 'hair that is Quite harmless, and in certain states of the atmosphere may be said to aid greatly in preserving- a woman's ap- peararice, and consequently her. peace of mind is: Carrag-wen moss, 4 ounce; eau do cologne, 1 pint; extract of mlllefleur, 1 ounce; elUerliower water (or plain dis tilled), 1 pint. The moss Is soaked overnisrht the water, heated to dis solve It, -then strained and perfumed. It can be tinted with liquid carmine or tincture Df saffron; and is said to be quite efficacious. - The hair should be moistened witta It before rolling; on kid covered curlers. A strong- infusion of saffron Into a weak solution of crystallized carbonate of soda; to. be followed when dry, by a "mordant" of lemon Juice or vinegar diluted with an equal part of 'water. This makes the hair a reddish yellow. Always before using any preparation to chanare the color of the hair it must be freed from all oil by a thorough shampoo, antl should be dr.ied also. If you want to dye yonr hair black, hyposulphite of soda will do the work, provided it contains sufficient ; sulphur to combine with, it, and- it lias' the ad vantage of not staJninkf. A successful brown die Is: Pyrogalllc acid, 1 drachm: eau de cologne. 2 draebms: rose water. 5 ounces.:- To obtain the Titian red, one of trie least harmful methods la; Powdered henna,-' pound; acetlo acid 4 drachms; white ' honey. 4 drachms ; powdered rhubarb, 4 drachma. This paste is applied all over the hair, from the tips to tho roots, and left on two hours to dry. It Is then washed off In several waters softened with ammonia or soda. Better results are obtained, . If dried in the sun. Gloves should be used In this opera tion. Bear the following: In mind: The hair is affected by the general health. This Is not surprising when we understand how dependent Its marvelous organiza tion is upon the absolutely healthful circulation of the ecalp and the tone of its nerves. , All strictures about the head disturb the circulation, and tight hair-dressing that strains It at the roots and twists and tortures It is injurious. Rata cause the iiead to become hot and often produce hair-tailing. Change the' mode of doing hair, 80 that .the woig-ht of the coil or braid will not be In thevsame part of the head constantly. Do not. part; the hair, in the same place all the time. It Injures the roots of the hair. Clians-insr and shifting; the parting- is a arood precaution against its thinning into a broad ugly line at the top of the head. It is a splendid habit for women and trirls to arive their hair' sun and air baths as frequently as possible, letting; the hair flow unconflned over the shoulders. It is an error to suppose that cuttlng a litle girl's hair makes the growth abundant when grown; on the contrary, a regular cutting makes it coarse.' It will do much to Insure beautiful hair throughout life. ' If its hygenic I'll ru rbils i. UMlUJIilhlS! UHMhU,'tUUiiHn H.ilJIvi li'K lUliitllliHl ID.J Si T-' fT 111 ' III 1 11 it'. MP I im ,.,im i1' n ' mmmmmmmmj MiiiMi W, Pilify It I 'i ill I VAW mwWmmmtm i tiimmmmmmmmmmm of the Hair treatment is begun with the life of the infant. ... Part of .he first earn of the Infant with fresh, sweet olive .oU or toattOf sweet almonds. After a few hours 'it should be washed with warm water and well lathered with soap baric or Castile soap. , The little scalp must be handled with utmost frentleness, and neither brush nor com i. nor harsh towel touched to It, as they mlsrht Inflict serious damage to tho hair follicles. This operation should be repeated daily for several weeks. When the babe is three months old. a weekly shampooing- and" ollins; will be aulTic lent, but even if the hair lias come in quite thick, for the first year no comb and only the softest brush, made for the purpose, .should be used. Brushes and combs should be selected with extreme care. Economy Is out of place here, for cheap brushes are usually poor ones, with harsh bristles. The expense should be In the bristles and not In the back, unless one can afford both. Stlffer bristles will be re quired for one head of hair than for another. . Io not use wire brushes, they are Iti- Jurious. I have learned this from ex perience. ' Do not use your brush until all the snarls have been'caref ully and gently untang-led with the comb. If you have a stubborn case of dan druff, the scalp should be well oiled with olive oil for several hours before using the ess shampoo. If you need help regarding your lialr, and will send stamped, self-addressed envelope. I shall be pleased to relieve you in your difficulty. WHAT A BABY NEEDS BT STELLA. FLORENCE. PROM tho Tory dawn of hla precious little Ufa the baby should aleap alone In hla own tiny crib. ' From the viewpoint of hygiene it is the only plan, auid It is. moreover, the only- poasible way of Insuring oomfort- able rest for either child or mother. When the means are lacking:, at the time of baby! arrival to provide a bona-flde crib, a very good one may be Improvised out. or - an old-fasbloned clothes basket, which has the ftdvant- agre ' of belna eaeily transported from one room to another, aa need may i . - quire. , - It should be fitted, from top to bot tom, .wltn a detachable llnlnsr of white mull or. dotted Swiaa ahlrred over pale blue cambric. Tha mattress should b quite four lnchea thick and made to fit the bot torn of the b&alcet, and It should ba well proteoted with a rubber sheet. ' Over this not under It should 'be anioothly spread the usual white sheet, made, preferably from a place of an old sheet of soft' linen; and over this, again, should come the washablle pad of stockinette. There" Is no need of an upper sheet. in ; i m i ; I I mm as the baby will be. wrapped in a soft warm blanket before being laid In his snug little nest: nor should a pillow be used, aa he will be infinitely better off without one. The coverlet should be lig-ht- of weight but well wadded, with three or four'' thicknesses . of sllkoline over the cotton flllingr. Oown fllUngs should never be used Cor a baby's pillows or coverlets, aa the particles of clown. 111- terlng through the covers, will almost certainly And their way into the nos SwlSI III - SR !fi - W fBa aiiQJfY7 srowin, looser, th. elbow Mi iK mV ' Hflk 4 ft Al llVr hi A pretty sleeve for brlahtenlnc an Ippi'S !! 'tSPS tV ' 'iWhaVaw M 7tT illlit If" Tnln or dinner sown Is mads entire- SH tlSfcJ-i;n'iiryj J' i! 'W W ly of ruffles of laoe. the bottom ruffle ij $MJ'M'it mi W fM just escaplns the elbow. It is made jii j illj j jSi-JijUj ' UV : H liif 1 . 4 m with blaoa vslvet HUbou. . MfM I i&l M i M1 iM . -11 ' - mm - sleeve aanll be made of ' Wj I ! WliiSSfl ' ftff j u ! Mil ftl -1 Tb. Loui. Am. U anothat mart f$Pf ii'i'lii "i!:?3KS'I!il! V i :8 model for dressy frock. A tan voile J4viW&!MWm WWW -i. ' rVliiil W "' ' Xli" c"0 aow ust aMU a bit of V6?1l!ll(!?Sf'0?Sw'i I I' rill 'if "SMII'!!SiW Vl brla-btsanna; would be heipa with a . teE- T" yRkiiWi : feiktL' 3 Al8i )A!3 ha. tiny tucks caoght Into fold J,, .( .( ffl I t II 1 (j! iiiijllffliSSy . 3r t!,i j VfA KSJl of rlbbo. which baaaa l Knr kaou al ' -XygMW, I! itj I ill 11 I'lliiilnktfA Vm. WlT n,ow- beaeatia JK JHgT .-iiv' .-.!i iUl lIlPl ' I ii'inifl'Tvsy " w wlw w ! ttie HVbw 9aM ot pnur vKt'Wr- Jrlww f if WW i 71 1 1 1 .Th. cuff, which b finished with rib- '4jjS WA ill IllW'k samoafnl stowras and should be" I ' IS Wfo iffl -irwVGS? ! I H. W M m ! I reSil1 Another dainty elm. might be made y i i I) WM IPllf-S VaSgJ&l to r with tan. a soldsn brown silk. Uljf ; !! fi ! h , S I'jTn k M0 could be used when desired. The cuffs should have the stitched bands and but- tons, which might also have adjustable lace and embrlodery cnn"s. Shirt waist suits should not be flxy and fussy, but rather of a tailored nature. and ruffles should neveir be used, on them. It Is permissible to wear an all- over lace bolero jacket with a silk shirt waist suit. . The adjustable bolero is a dress acces sory that Is effective- with blouses and also with1 shirt waist suits. The bolero may be had at little cost, or it may bd very elaborate. Attractive materials' for use in malting? shirt waist suits . besides silks, jno- hairs and brllllantlnes, soft wool ma- terlals. French flannel In a navy blue would make an effective costume; also in brown, with the embroidered dots of black. Tflmmed In black taffeta bands this would make a smart suit. . X bat to Ko with -this costume would be of brown felt, with blaclc or white wings, or Para- diss aigrettes. The new plaids will Te quite the thine; to makei up In shirt Waist suits. I have In mind one of the pretty patterns of red and rreen in tho small, Invisible plaids, and trimmed in black velvet ribbon, with. a. solid fcreen tucked - chemisette. The hat to be of green, trimmed In plaid ef- facts, or with bows of the dress material. The skirt should clear th ground about four inches, and should be of even length all the way around. A suit would be very chic for a young Brlrl, made of cream French flannel, hav ing" a small embroidered design In lignt moss green or cell blue. This would have no trimming, but would follow closely to the strict lines of the model, and the fair wearer would finish her costume with one of the heav ily embroldored new stocks that open In front and the tie of which I have told you In a previous letter, in silk: to match the embroidered collar. A pretty plan upon which the slightly stout woman may build her silk shirt waist suit of plaids is to have the skirt cut circular, and the pleats inlet, just the same as in the other, skirts, though of course the plaiting- should be less gener ous than it would be for the tall, slender fe-irl. . 'Dame Fashion jcemlngly. has planned everything; these days for this creature blessed of the srods. Of course, the new Empire style Is especially chic and smart on this type of woman, though some of the stouter women look quite Rtunnlng- ln gowns built after Paquln's models. A smart shirt waist suit may be made of sage green flannel, and trimmed in velvet ribbon, of & darker hue, or In black taffeta bands. If a chemisette Is used. It would be of the silk, with crosswise tucks, and the collar would also be of the silk, with a dainty lingerie, turn over. It Is well for the wearer ot these mod el 8 to bear in mind that the turn-over collar and cuffs were especially ordained by Providence for the shirt waist suit. The shops, this season, abound In pretty ono9, and at such reasonable prices, too, that it would almost seem a -waste of time to embroider them. But there are odd moments when the mistress of a home can do nothing but embroider, as an eminent physician re cently said. "Embroidery is to a woman what a cigar is to a man. it relaxes the nerves," trils and mouths, and thence into the lung-s and air passages. To this cause, in fact, may be traced many of the- membraneous affections from which babies suffer, and which often lead to serious troubles of the nose, ears, throat and chest. "Or. Bsom Is onre more amonir ua for a Yr1ff seanon." wrote the chro nt':lr or an IC n k 1 lr vllla.Ke'K social anil rcllKloua 11 f. "Jie says and does exactly as he thinks right without regard to the opinion or belief of others. His wife is not with him." ' When Introduced BY PRUDENCE STANDISH. pTHING is more embarrassing to rU iH hostess or guest than introduction Where there la doubt . aa to the proper form pursued in the Introduction. So It behooves the prospective hostess or. guest to be absolutely sure as to the thing; to be done and the thine to be left undone. It lg best, as a general rule, to give simple introductions. "Mrs. Johnson, let me present Mr. Horner." will bo found correct at almost any time. The old mode, "Let' me make you acquainted with." is relocated now to "inoccuoua desuetude," and besides, selng most awK ward, should never be usea. ' When introducing men to women, the woman's should be the first name spoken the eentlemnn Is presented to the, lady. A good form and one that is complimentary for a man to use. when presenting- a masculine friend to a lady. is; "Mrs. Johnson. AIi-. Horner desires to be presented to ycu." ' When iSning a lady's permission to introduce a man. the correct form is the following: . "Arils! 0rtr. may I present my friend. Brutus Shepard? Me is anx- Jous to know you, antf I hope you have no objections." tT pon the young woman's accedlngr to the request, the simplest and lea.t fiowcry form would be the best to use. . hen one maKes a stranger Known to a -group of gtiests, tho host, or hostess, if the person to b? Introduced is a woman, should f iy : "Mrs. Johnson, let me pre sent Miss Canning. Atiis Rosa Canning-, Judge. Smith and Professor Pofle." When the stranger is a young- woman or gentleman, the host or hostess may dfspense with superfluous words and. first presenting the name of tiie stranger, then specify the guests or friends present by their proper titles or surnames in the following: manner: "Miss Johnson. Mrs. Smith, Mrs. Blanton.. Dr. IewK"' . One should, never make the prions mistake of teadln a lady about a room full of guests and introducinpr her to a host of people. ThlB is permissible in the case of a debutante or young person, who may be conducted across a draw- ins-room In order to be presented to an oldr woman some person of distinction, a society- dowager, or distinguished ma tron. Of course, when the person intro duced is a man, lie Is always taken to the lady. When thore is a decided difference in tho iges of the -two persons introduced. the younger woman is Introduced to the elder, thus: "Mrs. Johnson, let me pre sent Mrs. Smith. An unmarriod woman is Always presented to a matron the ex ception being when the one unmarried Is an elderly spinster. When any distinction as to nife would be disagreeable, a mode equally defer ential to both- is: "Mrs. Johnson, this la Mrs. Smith; Mrs. Smith, Mrs. John- son." ., In a drawin(r-room presentation where men are introduced, .one need not be no punctilious as to distinctions. A young man, or a bachelor, would quite naturally enough be presented to an elderly man, and a plain citizen to a Judge. - Senator or Governor, or other titled man. Where these distinctions may be eliminated a good form of Introduction Is, "Mr. Smith, Mr. Lewis." When a request has been made to meet a. lady, or requests on both sides have gone forth to a mutual friend for an in troduction, a good form in the presenta tion would be: "It affords me much pleasure to present Mr. Smith to you, Mrs. Johnson," or. "This is Mr. Smith. Mrs, Johnson; It is a great pleasure to me to present him to you." . . It occasionally happens that hostesses may be able to put their guests on an Immediate pleasant footing by throwing out some hint of a mutual interest, such as: "Mrs. Johnson,- let me present to you Dr. Foreman, who, like 3ourself. Is much Interested in the latest motorcars or, "Miss Armstrong:, you must know Miss Glunn who can tell you all about the literary life. In Iondon. about which you so much wish to hear." In presenting one's frienfls to relatives, one need, not be so formal. For exam- pie: "Mrs. Johnson. I want ray sister to know you: "Mother, this is Mr. lewis"; "Miss Littleton. I do not think: that my father has yet hnd the pleasure of meet ing you," or, "Miss Littleton, my brother asks to be presented to you. In the hopea that you may be able .to tell lilm some thing" about the art student life In Paris. in which he is so much interested.' BS Careful When Introducing. When making introductions, DC careful to speak the names carefully. Do not mumblsb them, bo tuat neither portv-will ,lavo Aiiy of tri ntxiTto of the pfrgun to whom he lias been introduced. It is no serious blunder, however, If the name of a guest escapes the host or hostess. . When thin occurs, he or she should k v to th guest : "Do forjyive me. but I can't recall your name ai this moment," or, "I feel so stupid this afternoon, and your name wholly escapes me at thi? Instant." Upon roo?l-lriK the informa tion, tho introduction may b made. Acknowledgment of Introductions. "When n. woman Is In her own homft. th invariable ruin is for her to extend Viol- hand, when any one Is introduced to her, with the ' cordial grootlne. "Mr. (or Mrs.) Johnson. I am delighted to meet vou." or. "How do you do. Miss Johnson. X am very glad to meet you." Unless a young lady Is tho hostess, she does not; make any wordy expression of gratification at metlnor a younjt man, but under m 1 1 ci n?umstanrfs a gentlf man is required to indicate that he is pleased at meeting a youn Ionian, by some such words as "I am very -happy to meet you. Miss Iewist." M a n d s 1 mkl (c. Tho old-fashionod. wirdi.nl cu.'tnm of shaking: hands on the presentation of Peop'1 1 onf of much bautv, but In formal, ultra-fashionable aociwtv. this in not done except by the hostess of tha occasion. A slight Inclination of the head, a smilA and a murmur of th name are all that Kood form requires. The latter custom is looked upon with favor also as belnjr more convenient owlnp to the crowded drawing-room when larpg-e "crashes" am Biven. It if. however. nver bad form. and always a heautiful cuHtom to give a cordial handshake. Kecelving Introductions. While acting: as hostess, one should riso to accept an Introduction to either a man or woman, but if a woman Is a jruest at a ball, dlnnpr or afternoon tea. she does nQt rts when a man 1h presented to her. nor docs she rise when a woman is pre- sented to her, unless tho woman Is a per son of distinction, or quite elderly. If she la fa-tel hefiitlo her hnateff. howe-v-or. It lw t.tr.r t.. rlio with the hostess, who naturally arises to greet the gue.t. In nil other elrcumstaneeB. a -woman Khoull riMO to aoknowlnlKP an Introduc tion to 1 'i " of h.-r own tnTc. A man. of course, always stands when lie is intro duced, whether he is meetliiK a. man or womar, of any ago whatsoever. If. In an Introduction, one I?: unfortu nate enough to mlnn the name of the per- son to whom one has been introduced. If the person is" murh older than oneself. one may say: "Will you not tell me whom Z have the pleasure of meeting, for I was so stupid I did not catch your name?", If the person is near one's own age. one might any: "Mrs. Johnson called you Mlsn Smith, did ahe not?" If one is introduced at a reception or tea to an enemy, it is not permissible to refuse to meet the person, but bow pn- litely a., though meeting for tho first time. Of couree. this doea not mean tliat further intercourse in necessary. . Ball and Reception Introductions. At a dinner a hostess should see that all guests are Introduced, especially those going; in to dinner together. On her day at home, tho hostess Intro duces every arrival to the. ffueats who are near by. and the same rule 1h fcood nt re ceptions, the occanlon betnjc exceptional that would require a hostess to take a guest across the room to make an intro duction. At balls, the hoKtess Introducefl her guests as they arrive to those receiving with her, and throuKhout tho evening, as opportunity offers, she makes other in troductions. . Public Introductions. When introductions are made in puhllo, In the street, at the church door, in a hop or theater, they 7ed not h after wards recoBTtlzed. Unless your friend stops so long that It Is embarrassing, no introduction to the stranger is necessary. letters of Introduction. It Is quite bad form to aak for a letter of Introduction, A pprson of refinement will leave this kind office to the friend who miKht fcie them. A prson should not send a letter of In trod urt Ion to one on whom lie cannot positively count for a favor, nor repardinif one for whom he cannot positively vouch. Letters of Introduction may he deliv ered In person, if the one having the letter Is a man; If a woman, they should be mailed to the one to whom she la be ing: introduced, together with her own card, bearing; her address. A R ecipe for Keep- ing Young BY BERTHA DENISON. 0 N'E woman, who lg remarkable for her fresh color, her serene manner and her spontaneous Interest In Ufa. arava the following- directions to a friend who asked her for the secret of her conqueat of Father Time. "Xjie down for at least half an -hour In a darkened room. .Loosen your akirt bands and your collar. Relax all your nerves. This will be hard to do at first, you will find yourself holding tensely, the nerves In one part of your body or another. Sut practice will make it easy. "Banish with all the force of will you have, every worry and every unpleasant thought. Recall vividly some delightful experience or. Indulge In some day-dream of what you hope. "So much' for the room-rest. Now for the mental refreshment. Never let a day go by in which you clo not alt down Quiet ly for at least 16 minutes with a favorite book. "As for myself, I am a great believer in the spiritual uplift of poetry. It Is better for me to read, for a few minutes each day, some beautiful, inspiring; poetry than to read an extract from essays. But if you don't like poetry and do like essays, read them. "rjon't spaaid your mental refreshment time In poring over fashion books or mod em fiction. Use it for the strength that comes from the deeper springs of litera ture. 'Take a walk in the fresh air every day. even If you can be out only 20 minute.i or a half hour. Take in the air tn lone. deep breaths; look: for the beauty of sky and landscape and rejoace tn It. "If you Bpend half an hour lying down In absolute rest, a quarter of an hour In reading- something; that gives you a -new spiritual point of view and if you add to these, a half-hour in the fresh air, you take only an hour ana a quarter for tha up-building; of your nerves and tha re freshment of your mind. "Do these thlngrs every day aa regu larly as you take your bath and eat your meals. The result will astonish you; you will be happier and prettier and younger."