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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 20, 1907)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXUX. PORTLAND, JAXUART 20. 1007- 47 jSSI tiSk t7 ' ill. til 1 i llfnfi1M1l Uas& . - . : ' UNDERRMENTS WHICH. HELP 10 EFFECT; fl SUHfrlK. The question of umforwtar Is one that J nmi i ry emphatically decides. "VV i t hi the rlmt of the month tile white sales begin, and In these, for prices are lower than usual, the shops exploit the newest wrinkles in the year's llns-erle. Th. thing, let over at these bargain sales are found at still lower prices on counters later on. Lengths of unmade material are then Incredibly cheap, and such (trmflnt. as are discolored toy- hand ling (fo sometimes for the proverbial song. Ho exacting- la the etiQuette of lin gerie on the point of daintiness that one cannot well have a too generous lupply. Chemlams and drawers which may hav machine stitched seamii ewpoclal ly thow the dainty labors of the hand needle. Flna nainsook and French m American lawn are favorite materials for . these, with hnd embroidery and maybe a deli cate edge of narrow lace for the chemise. and tucks and trlmmlns-edgerl flounce for the drawers. Drflwrrd Are Rea.lly Short Petticoats. Concernjng these last they are really short petticoats In essence, for never surely was the pantalon so enormously wide an now. At the waist well fit ting drawers show a carefully made yoke, Into which the full lower portions are iratherpd. the edges of the frou-frou flounoes falling no further than the knee cap. The effect Is delightfully modest, something between a divided skirt and a genuine short petticoat Drawer ribbons In white and color, lace through beading above other trimmings, and tie in prfetty bows at the outside of the drawer le-rs. themlses much admired are the French Up affairs of convent manufacture. These show only hand embroidery, and however coarse they seem at tirst they all wash prettily and seem to express the proper understanding in elegant under- wear. Fifty cents Is by no means an unusual price for oho of these pretty French cheml.ies. which are considered vastly more feminine than the underbody and short skirt once worn In their place. Handsome models those which show embroidered eyplfts tor a. white or colored drawer ribbon, about the nock cot?; from fi.23 to js5 nnfl or course there are other prices far above these. Other pretty chemises In the shops, and very nearly as cheap as these, are of ' American lawn, with only a narrow neck and sleeve edge of Valenciennes lace. These with the wide drawers in the same material are admirable for Summer wear; 98 cents may be the price of the chemise ana 75 cents that for the drawers, Night Dresses With Short Sleeves. rainty little Summer nightgowns are cut out at the neck and have short puff or elbow sleeves. A thin quality of nainsook is generally used for these, and though many show a load of Hamburg embroidery or lace, fine or otherwise, the most piquant models are rather plain. One gown model at 98 cents was trim med merely about. the nerk -and sleeves with a bias of the material run with white or colored wash ribbon. Wash Ribbons for Underwear. A pearly ,luster and delicate graining distinguish these wash ribbons, which at various points, on all garments, emerge from casings or headings to tie In pretty flyaway bows. Even pettlcoata show them, and thoug-h the street petticoat is preferably all white, the pink, or blue, or violet gown of Summer may show pet ticoat ribbons In the same color. In fact, we have arrived at the point when woman's under rigging is pretty as a matter of course1, and so Important a part does the smart petticoat play in a smart get-up. that It In impossible to seem well dressed without one. The Form of the New Petticoat. The form of the new petticoat is a very Important matter, the drooping? lines of costumes demanding a rcry close fit at the top. There, then, the wash petti coat Is gored sharply, till, at the yoke, which finishes the waist portion there is scarcely a gather. ; At the bottom deep trimmed flounces, put over, a drop flounce, also trimmed, give the desired' fullness. A. fine loner cloth, with- lawn for the flounces, is a favorite petticoat material, and Into Jthe flounces of some, all of lawn, row sfter row of lace la put. effecting- a detlctoua look of wealth. The Buttoned Flounce. A petticoat which is thought to be even more slimming In Its tendencies than these carefully cut ones has a woven top of lisle thread or silk. This, fits the hips with undervest snug nesa, but at the bottom there is the usual frou-frou flounce of lawn, which buttons on for washing purposes. A very practi cal wrinkle, too. thlg last, for the laun dries charge little to do up a flounce and a great deal for the whole skirt. The woven .-upper portion, since it needs no ironing, may be washed in a hand basin and dried in a few minutes. Following the various white petticoat models are very stylish little skirts of tinted chambray, percale and calico for more practical Summer wear. The best of these are French made, and It is alwayn wise to consider the color of a gown before buying one. In "Paris all colors are worn with black frocks. Bloomers to Insure Slimness. Entirely new things seen In the under wear departments are bloomers and plain underbodies for the woman who must he slim at any cost. These, for the chill i weather which must still be expected, are often of fine flannel in white or pale color, i Others are In black or tan pongee or silk, and such aorta are admirable for traveling-, when the subject of washing Is sometimes a serious detriment to peace of mind. . ; . In Bngland, where women are not nearly so ejcactlngc about pretty under wear as here, this practical species of unflcrwear k vfucH Torn, . . In adjusting tho more feminine myste ries here discussed to her person, the wo man of fashion begints by putting the corset over the knitted undervest and drawers. If she Is too stout for' even the fine slip chemise she uses a handkerchief corset cover of thin mull, which, tying Just below the bust, leaves the waiat free. The petticoat band is also drawn down under a large hook on the corset front, and every gather , carefully smoothed away from the hips to the back. All this may sound simple and unimportant, but a deal depends on putting on under clothes In the right way. Apropos of Corsets. Apropos of corsets, they, too, appear in Incredible numbers at thia time. All are cheaper than formevly, all have the con venient garter straps at the front, and however inexpensive the model, there axe the bias seams which once the expensive (French corset alone showed. 0CkETOORn DTjiXYEriisi: or FAmiort, Charming little corsets In an -excellent quality of batiste or coutil may be had" from 11.35 up. At the top a ribbon or lace puff trims these prettily. As to form, the straight front Is still paramount, but a new system of cutting; ensures more comfort than was first po sibl with this style. In point of depth. as one figure requires one thing and an other Quite a different thing. It Is only possible to s pea It on general lines, For figures which are slim and firm enough to go "with little restraint, many ooraeta are the merest waist girdles, skeleton . models of tape and ribbon ap pairing In those, flritl very short affairs in the usual seamed materials. For stouter figures. ' especially thoce which need to. be held In check, many models seem enormously long, and there are even bands over the shoulders. A number of them have wide bunks, or even double ones, to flatten the abdomen, and instead of the pair of steels inserted in the sides of other model?, there may be here from four to six of these stern sup porters. Hygienic corsets for young; matrons have as few steels as possible, and some times the lower portion of them is made still further comfortable by a wide rub ber band. All sorts of dainty conceits are shown by the French corsets, which are so often of exquisitely flowered cottons and silks as of plain white. One flowered pair dull cream French calico, spotted; with . pink, buds showed silk strings with exactly the same pattern. Another coquette In the corset family was delicately perfumed with two tiny satin scent sachets concealed under the bust laces. Garter scent bags which fill comically each side of the garter top were still another fYench freak. Detachable bust flounces of lace and ribbon for building out too. slim figures are shown In all the corset departments. A Few Words of Advice. And now a few words of personal ad- vice, anerit the ethics of corsets, the good taste of them. thdri practical side, etc.: White Is by all .means to be pre ferred to color,, and three inexpensive pairs every time to one ex pensive one. Daintiness la fashion's first requirement. and since one is never sure of a washed corset it Is better to get a new cheap pair han to wear soiled finery. In buying: the corset, if excessive boning; Is the only objection, it is an easy mat ter to rip the trimming at the top or the hem at the bottom and remove some of the objectionable stiffenens. At any good shop, too, alterations in height or depth will be made for small additional cost generally 75 cents is asked. Silk supplies the best laces, though nar row linen strings are cheaper and last longer. Cotton laces are only worn by women who do not realize what an Im portant part the corset strings play in the smoothness - and elegance of the bodice. FinaUy as to the proper putting on of the boned armor another word: Corseta need to be as crefully ntted' to the body as gloves to the hand. The Venus of fashion must give tribute to patience if she wishes to fool comfortable and look: well in her coat of malt. How to Iut on a Corset. TIere is the receipt for thU Important reremony: Fasteu the abdominal hook si first, lifting the body with a long breath at the same time and holding the- head well back. This holds superfluous flesh In the right place Instead of crowding 1C downward, which can only be excessively ujj'.y as v.ell as Injurious. After the top of the front If? hooked draw the looped laces from cyoletn slight- ly below the waist, pulling the bottom of the corset much tighter than the top. Through this simple means healthy breathing in permitted, for the bodices am so loose that It is "only at the waist ant hips that the figure needs to be held taut. To keep the corset In good shape when off the person, the Frenchwoman uses a round block of wood, such as a. section off a window-shade rolled would make. The corset, which haa Hrst been well aired, of course. Is wrapped tightly around this and kept In place on the block with a ribbon or pins. It is then wrapped In tissue paper to preserve cleanliness and put away per haps in a drawer faintly scented witti orris root. There is no better or mora fashionable a perfume than orris, by the way. for all the secret matters of wo man's dress; HOW TO KEEP THE HANDS SOFT BY ELEANOR CUPP. CHAPPED hands are almost always caused by Insufficient drying after washing, or perhap the water was Icy cold and very hard, or used too hot. Both extremes are .bad for the skin. To preserve the hands in good condi tion In Winter they should, whenever pos sible, be washed In tepid water, and if this is softened by a spoonful of borax so much the better. B-e sure to use a soap of good quality, and when drying the hands take the pre caution of rublbng each Anger separately. If the hands are rubbed over once a day with a sUce of lemon and a little cold cream, or If mutton tallow Is rubbed Into lhem thoroughly before going to bed at night, there will be little danger of the kin becoming chapped or rough. An Excellent Cold Cream. An excellent and delightfully fragrant cold cream for the hands, or the face . either, can be made as follows: Take eight ounces almond oil; 14 ounces spermaceti; 14 ounces white wax. Shred the wax and the spermaceti finely and put In a china marmalade Jar. A small enamel ware saucepan will do. Stand it In another saucepan about a third full of boiling water. Keep this simmering until the tngredl- ents are entirely melted and then add a few drops of lavender oil and pour into mall chfna pots. The little pots in which cheese often comes are excellent for the purpose. The preparation can be used mm soon as It is cool, and will keep for a long time. An Invaluable Lotion. Another invaluable lotion for hands that are inclined to be red in Winter, even though they 'do not chap badly, is made of lemon juice, eau de cologne and glycerine, equal parts of each. This can also be used for chapped hands. Keep Your Hands White. To keep the hands white, have a Jar of oatmeal on the waahstand and dust a lit tle on them after they are washed and dried, and then rub It off with the towel. Houseworked Hands. If yon 'have a great deal of housework 4o do and the hands get very grimy, don't. If they are inclined to chap and become red, scrub them hard with' a nailbrush. Kub them all over with a little lard. Wipe this off with a soft rag and most' of the dirt will come off with the lard. Then wash the -hands in soap and water and rub over them a slice of lemon and they will be as fair and white as It you never handled a broom or washed pots and kettles In your life. Removing Fruit Stains. Apple, potato and most other stains can he removed from -the fins-era by rubbing: them with oatmeal wet with lemon Juice or vinegar. A nailbrush should be used for the An ger nails. When the stain is Quite Bone, wash the hands with soap and warm water. But do not on any account use soap be fore removing- the stain, as It will then be very difficult to sret It off.. A Ijlttle-Known Remedy. If the cuticle around the nail grows over it In an unsightly manner and la ret tru .ui lr.nlclr.ar I. n u ... . ... . proved -with olive oil. After washing the hands at night with warm water and a good 00a p. loosen the cuticle with the orange wood miclc as well as you can. Then heat a tablespoonful of olive oil, twist a piece of absorbent cotton around your ever-useful stiok, saturate this with the oil and swab the cuticle thoroughly with It. The. oil will shrink: the cuticle and keep it smooth. By persevering in this treatment for a week or two the most unsightly nails can soon be brought Into good condition. To Remove Ink, Stains Tinder Nail a. Always Ude an orange wood stick for cleaning the nails.- If the flesh under the nail has become stained with Ink, fruit or anything else, do not try to scrape this out Wind a little bit of absorbent cotton around the end of the orange wood stick., wet it in peroxide of hydrogen and. thor oughly moisten the flesh under the nail and the stain will soon disappear. Recipe for Camphor Ice. An excellent camphor Ice that agrees perfectly with many skins and whitens them marvelous ly can be made as fol lows: White wax, one-half ounce; almond oil, one-hair ounce; white vaseline, one ounce; camphor, one-elg-hth of an ounce. Mix together and dissolve In the manner al ready described for the cold cream. Pour Into a shallow dish and when cold cut into cubes. This can be rubbed over the hands (several times a day. HOW BEST TO MIX A SALAD BY ELEANOR ClVPP. TO have the oven at just the right degree of heat la one of the most Important points in cooklnfr. A simple and easy test Is to put a piece of white paper In the oven. If the paper becomes dark brown the heat la at the proper temperature tor pies. if it is a ligrift brown you can cooK tarts. F"or bread.- heavy calces like pound or fruit, meat pies or roast meat, the paper should turn a dam yellow, while if it Is Just tinged with" color the oven Is fit for delicate cooking:, such as kisses, meringues of all sorts and sponge cake. To Give Pies a Rich Color. If you want to give your pies a rich color wet the upper crust with sweet milk Just before baking. Instead of boiling puddings In the English fashion. as is often done in ttits country, -why not . try steaming tuernT A steamed pudding is much lighter and more di8restlble than a boiled one. but it takes about twice as long to cook. Any recipe lor a boiled pudding can be successfully used for a steamed one. Stoning Tt&lsins. . Raising can be very easily stoned for cakes and puddings If boiling water is .poured over them and they are left tor a few moments. ' This softens them so that the seeds are easily pinched out But many good cooks prefer to stone them as they come from the shop and keep the seeds - from sticking- by continually moistening their lingera with cold" water. An Improvised Steamer. .If you have not a steamer a . very good make-shift is to put your pud ding mixture in a small round tin pan. Tie a string- around th!s Just below the rim and fasten two long; hoops to it, one on each side. Put this pan in an ordinary sauce pan, big- enough to hold it, and pour in boiling water enough to come about half-way up the inner pan. Put UP the loops of string, let them hang down outside the saucepan -and put on the cover. The strings are to be used for nan -dies to take the pan out of the boiling; water when the pudding is done. Too Much Salt Corrected, by Brown SuKHr If, ' by any 'mistake, you have put too much salt in either soup or gravy add a pinch of coarse brown sugar and -the salty taste will be Bone. Mix Mustard 'with Milk. When you are mixing mustard for the table use milk.. Instead of water and it will be much smoother and will not dry up so quickly. BT JrUXIMIUAN LOUP. . VOID giving all salads the same taste by flavoring them with some condiment one is per hs ps over-fond of. Variety Is the main spice of salada as of life. While connoisseurs all agree that pure, fresh olive oil is the ibest for sal ads there are people who prefer the fat of smoked "bacon and relish lt flavor above all else. It ia well to remember that we should know how to substitute one condiment or another, if necessary, and not go ts&ladless for want of one particular flavoring ma terial. Salt is perhaps the one tndispenslble seasoning, and of all A&vorlng substances, the onion Is most valuable -and enjoyable to all, even to xhose who would not will- Ing-y eat the salad if they knew the onion had been used. For use In salads, how ever. Che onions must be mild In flavor and their presence cunningly concealed. Salads of all' kinds should be gently handle That is. they should not be heavily turned, but mixed In a very largre bowl, by running -the forlt and spoon down the' Bides of the, dish and then gently tossing the salad with an upward movement, letting it mix as it falls back. In mixing a plain lettuce or other green salad it Is. well -to put th. oil on flrat and then carefully toss the leaves about -until all are covered. In every part, with a thin .coating of the oil Then add the other in gredients and toss again. A armall Quan tity of oil is sufficient when thia method of thorough mixing Is .observed. The first native of India to obtain a place among the Wranglers in the Cambrldg Mathematical Tripos was Ananda ilahum Bopc, newt of whose death in Calcutta Is now announced. HINTS FOR THE HOUSEKEEPER D BY ELEAJCOR CLAPP. Editor McCalI'8 Magazine. O you-, know bow to get the best re- suits from your range or store with the least expenditure of coal? Well, naturally, stoves differ according to the peculiarities of their make, but there are certain general rules that apply to them all. Don't keep the damper open when you are not using- the Are for cooking. It not only bums away coal uselessly, but also ruins the firebrick that lines the stove. "When plotting coal on the flre don't bank it up until it almost touches the There should be a space of at least two inches between the covers and the tire. A Quick Stove Polish, To keep your kitchen attractive you must have the stove well polished. You can do this with a great deal less work if you will mix your stove polish with strong soap suds, for In this way you can obtain. & high, lustre with very little rubbing. A Steel Polish. If the stove has steel trimmings rub them with the following mixture and they will look like new: Sweet oil. one tablespoonful: turpentine, two tablespoonf uls ; emery powder, one tablespoonful. The Kitchen Sink. The kitchen sink should always be kept perfectly clean, for the health of the household depends to a great extent on this. Every day a large lump of waahing 6oda should be put over the drain hole and botHng 'water poured over It until It Is dissolved. This will clean the drain pipe from all grease and Impurity. Then scrub the sink out with soap and warm water two or three times a week. When you have finished scrubbing, pour down a bowlful of coid. water In which chloride of lime has been dissolved or which contains a tablespoonful of llauid chlorides and yon can be sure that &U the kitchen plumbing Is neat and clean and healthful. Prolonging Usefulness of a Broom. A nerw broom, they say. sweeps clean, and so it really does for the reason that the business end is straight and square. But before long the ends of the broom straws become split and sharp and the shape of the utensil irregular. When this happens the usefulness of the broom can be prolonged by dipping It In hot soap suds and trimming the softened straws straight across, the bottom. ' But if you want your brooms to last don't stand them in the .corner in the usual manner. Hang them up by their handles or turn them upside down. Always select a heavy broom instead f a light one. as the weight fs a substan tial aid In sweeping-. Cleaning Steel Knives. How do you clean your steel knives? In the old way on a knife board? Suppose you try the German fashion. which is much simpler than the ordinary manner and saves a good deal of work. Take the cork from a big bottle of some sort and dip It into knife powder that has been moistened a little with water. Place the knife flat on the kitchen table. and rub it with the cork. In an ineredlbly nhort time tlie kniffl will be clean find beautifully polished ami will only require to be rubbed off on m cloth. ' To Koop Silver Bright. An easy way to keep silver brlsht is) to put a hand ful of borax in a dumpaa of hot water with a very little soap. Put the silver in this and let it stand the entire morning. Then rinse in clear water and wipe thoroughly dry with a soft cloth. You can treat plated ware in the same manner without the slightest injury t the plate. BITS OF USEFUL INFORMATION To remove stains, from marble, rub with a cut lemon, or well , scour with soap. After using cold-water starch, let it settle. Then pour off, the water, and allow the starch to dry. When dry It can be replaced in the starch box for future use. To keep handkerchief s a good color. Instead of damping them In the usual way before ironing:, proceed as follows: Put two quarts of tepid water, with five drops of blue and a small piece of lump starch, into a basin, and into this mixture dip each handkerchief sep arately, thoroughly- wetting: It. and then squeezing it as dry a posoible. When all the handkerchiefs have been treated ln this way, spread them out smoothly on a clean cloth or towel until they can be ironed. He member that green vegetables should not: be covered with the saucepan lid when they are being boiled. Varnished wallpaper may be washed with tepid water and any good soap. It will stand the usual treatment given to paint. New boots and shoes should, whenever practicable, be tried on toward the even ing, when the feet are somewhat larger than In the early part of the day. The danger of a "tight fit" is then avoided. Nothing- is better1 than vinegar for cleaning windows. -: It. gives a first-rate polish, rub It on with one soft cloth, dry the glass with another and polish with a washleathcr. ... Worms may be removed from furniture by applying paraffin or naphtha to the holes in the wood. A pinch of celery add?d to the vine gar, when boiling It for pickling purposes, adds greatly to the flavor. A little dry salt will remove stains and burnt marks from enam-filed pans. DH a l It of rag in the salt and rub the .stained part until clean. Effective pressing Is a great aid to the home dressmaker; When pressing; the seams of thick materials, dampen a bit of linen and put it over the material be fore pressing the Kam, using a very hot iron. A mixture that will remove grease from the finest fabrics without injuring them In made with one quart of rain water, two ounces of ammonia, one teaspoonf 11 1 of saltpeter, and one ounce of shaving soap cut up fine. Jelly in Layers. Take four packages of Jello of vari ous flavors. Empty the contents of one Into a bowl and stir in one pint of boiltna--water. Turn this Into a large flat baltlnic dish. When this Is quite cold and Arm, prepare another flavor In the same, way. when the second preparation is absolutely cold, but not congealed, pour evenly over the flrat layer. Continue In this way until all your layers are on, being most careful to have the layer In the pan very firm, before the next goes on. CTut in slice, about three-quarters of an inch thick and serve with beaten cream. Chopped Bng- llsh walnuts, mixed with the cream an a very treat improvement.