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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 21, 1906)
the form o a-pair of roses made -? EE2V ST THE? HE grand opora season in "New York and adjacent cities finally" determines the peculiarities in evening dress for each season Before this event the opening night at the Metropolitan Opera-House fashions hto more or less nebulous, but hardly lias the first week rolled around than H is pretty well settled that certain colors are to enjoy a pronounced vogue and certain styles of hair dressing are absolutely essontial for evening. Even the fads in Jewelry are fixed by the women who occupy the grand parterre. . Unquestionably mauve is immensely successful this year, and this most trying of shades is rendered more pos sible by the fact that the mauve fab Yfc proper is sprinkled or studded with Sequins which carry the softer opal escent tints. Mauve is distinctly the color of the purest of blondes and the clear-skinned brunette. No tint be trays more relentlessly the nsr nf - Women Who PIXDINGS in the divorce court to the contrary notwithstanding, there arc thousands upon thousands of men who love their wives In the good, old fashioned way and live up to their' mar riage vow, "With all my worldly goods 1 thee endow." . These are the men who, at the end of tjic wcck or tne end of the month, turn ovor to the wives in whom they have ab solute faith all of their earnings save the small' amount necessary for their personal expenses. And because thorc arc so many of these men they are hopelessly commonplace, and their pictures do not fjind their way into print along with fig ures in the divorce courts. J Two Irish women, thrifty looking and comfortably dressed, were discussing a dcath in the neighborhood. "'Sure. O'Shaughnessy was a foinc man. Oi'd always thought Oi'd a folne man mysilf, but when Mrs. O'Shaughncssy tould mo how her man gave her all his wages but tin cents a wake. I took off me hat to her." Tho following is tho experience of a nian who makes $50 a week, and is paying for a suburban home on the installment plan. He was standing in a tobacco shop with a friend. Both were admiring on old pipe rack at ?L75. Said Jones: "I'd like to have that, but Oh. well, 1 guess I can get along without it till we have tho house paid for, anyhow." The next day lie came down to the of fice and remarked to his fellow-worker .with grim humor: ""I wish I'd bought the pipe rack. "When I got home last night I found my wife had been to a bargain sale and bought me three 75-cent neckties in colors I detest and a silver blotting pad for my desk. Can j-ou beat it?" This is a question we ought to ask our selves at the end of each week: 'How have I spent my husband's earn ings?" "VVc fall into a way of thinking that they ar,c our earnings, particularly if wo have iiot worked for our living, but have stepped from a sheltered home life into the responsibilities of wifehood. And only tke woman who has worked down town, side by side with men, knows how easy it. is to spend a dollar here and there rather than to turn the week's earnings Into the household fund intact. .On the other hand, it takes a goodly amount of moral courage to wear an overcoat that has turned 'green in the scams because your wife needs a new freck to wear to tho woman's club meet vS 1 v makoup, though even those women long past the heyday of youth try to" defy ita power by the most skillful employment of cosmetics and coiffure builders. Another shadethat Is extremely try ing to the complexion, but most ex quisite under artificial light, is genu ino silver gray in palest tint, which for evening wear appears in chiffon, velvet, brocades and satin-surfaced silks. Combined with real lace any silver or pearl trimmings, these hues stand next to whito in the estimation of the women who affoct the most del icate of raiment. Princess styles are greatly in vogue at tho opera, and the severely plain skirt lines are carried up to tho point of the decollctcgc, which is finlshca with frills of laco or the most wonder ful of hand embroideries mixed with jewels. 1 : Respect Husband's Earnings ings and a certain curly-headed boy scuffs out a pair of shoes c-cry month. There has never been a time when it was so easy to waste money. The con veniences placed at the housewife's dis posalthe telephone, the groccrv boy who calls for orders, the postal card" addressed to grocer, butcher and baker all these cunningly invite the handler of the house- noiu iunas to leisurely and Incidentally extravagant methods of marketing. That is particularly true in large cities, where the dealer does not consider steady customers the secret of his prosperity, but who feels that there is safety in numbers or population, for whenever a dissatisfied customer withdraws patron age a less exacting one appears on the commercial horizon. The woman who orders by telephone, postal or tho order boy who calls at her kitchen doors wastes about 10 per cent of the money she pays out. This goes principally into the sccondcuts of meat when she has ordered a first; into high priced canned goods when, if she wcro at the store, she would see other grades well suited to her needs at a more reasonable figure. She should bear in mind that the prime motive of a salesman is to induce each customer to buy Just a little more or a trifle higher-priced goods than she In tended to when she started out. Now, if sho telephones tlwit she wants a can of peas, a pound of prunes and a package of macaroni without asking about prices or whether there Is a spe cial sale on In these goods, she Is liable to get French peas Instead of home grown, at double the price; the finest of imported prunes Instead of the less ex pensive but equally as good California variety, and a fancv rrrado. of mn In these three Items alone she will waste one-tnlrd of her Investment. 2Cot because good roods are not the mnKt ornnnmlosl Il the lone- mil. "hut Wjuisp. In n fr-mrollw managed household, the American wares unit equai iavor witn lmportea goods, and there is no excuse for paying for a high-priced foreign label. If she telephones to the butcher that she wants a roast of about eight pounds of a certain cut h win l word "about" to suit his own purposes. wnicn are to increase her account, when the roast is delivered shn flnr1 lint u Welchs a trifle over nlnn nminrtn charged for nine pounds ana a half, ana Jt is not tne cut sue ordered. Then shr adds furthpf in imr- Y-rnsn by falling the butcher over the 'phone and ucijitujmus an explanation, .tie tells her that it was the best he mnM An nn Vcf order, and he In sorrv. and win nnt w ir happen again. If she had gone to the market she would have been furnished with the cut -desired. Ah expert butcher K One gown that created an-enormous sensation was cut princess Ptylc in white crepe de chine, finished very simply around the docollctcge with rose fiutings of whito tulle. The bot tom of the skirt was finished with the Vandyke point effect in black sequins. The wearer carried a huge black fan and wore in her fair hair a butterfly of black spangles. The heavy band ot trimming at the foot of the princess gown is almost essential, as it drags It downward and gives the Blender, graceful lines needed to set off a prin cess frock properly. Very few plain lace dresses have been introduced at the opera. "Whllo the lace robe Is still used, this expen sive foundation is mcrclv secondary to the embroidery with which it is over laid. Tliis embroidery reproduces enormous sprays of flowers Joined or tied with embroideries simulating rib bon garlands or Marie Antoinette bows. Generally, the bottom of the skirt has shaped double flounces, tho Junc can cut his meat within an ounce of the amount ordered. A woman who runs a large boarding house and always pays cash recently had a wordy war with her butcher. It ended with her withdrawing her custom en tirely. In speaking of the matter with a ouKincss man she said: "I was amazed that he would treat a customer who always nald cash In such an Insulting fashion. I suppose if I ran an account ana nc was airam mat ne would never get his money, he would have treated me better." The man looked at her pityingly. "Oh, you don't know the first thing about business." he said. "A butcher docs not make his money off his cash custom ers, but from those who carry accounts or books 'wjth him. The cash customer whodocs her own marketing knows what sho Is buying. The woman who places her order with a boy, or orders by phone, has half a pound added here and a little extra price there. Not that the butcher Is dishonest. He simply gives her more than she needs, or a more expensive cut than she ordered, because 'he wants to get rid of his stock, and 15 or 30 cents written In a book never looks half as big as when paid out from your purse." Of course, it is natural that a.woman should enjoy her popularity among trades people. She likes to havea door opened for her by one clerk, her umbrella raised for her by another, and all seasoned by a parting bow from the proprietor him self, "but she can depend upon It that her husband pays for all this. It Is added to the bill. The woman who docs not personally select her green groceries, such as vege tables, fruits, etc, will be the loser by at least 23 per cent. Telephone to your vegetable man that-you want a bunch of his best celery, and he will send you the best that Is left over from yesterday's stock. If you are on the ground you have no difficulty in telling which Is yester day's stock and which today's. Order a peck of his best cooking apples by the boy, and you may depend upon It that they will eomi from barrel tucked somewhere behind the shelf. They will not be the Al apples piled up artistically to advertise hir. wares and catch customers who are on the ground. This Is not considered dishbnest. It Is filmnlv modern methods of mmmorm if you do not look after the wise expendi ture of vour husband' Mrnlnw shf should vour butcher Or vniir r-r-r- r ' your baker do it for you? He may smile i upon j-ou wnen you can 10 pay your week ly r montkly account, but to "his own i -V'-i " "SJ'- it,'' :( .1.1 tion being completely hidden by hand embroidery. Pink and blue are the fa vorite colors in combination on white or cream-colored lace, the blue being used for the ribbon garlands, or bows of pink with a pinkish yellow. Ameri can Beauty roses are also used for this embroidery, and pansies appear on the robes for elderly women. There is more or less of a vogue for gold, but It will hardly pay for a wom an of moderate means to indulge this fancy. A gold rose for the hat or to set off the marabout muff 'or stole is all very well, but a gown cmbroiderea heavily in gold thread Is a distinct ex travagance, and will hardly last an other season. Already the gold belt and the gold eelnture on hats is under the ban of well-dressed women. Shoes for wear to the opera or thea ter this year are very extravagant. Thesatin slipper must match the gown If evening dress is worn. For tho theater, when a somewhat elaborate tailored dress 1b worn, patent leathct shoes arc essential. The enormous, buckles set In rhlne stoncs which we'ro used at the begin ning of the season are giving place to the Louis Qulnsc bow. All theater gowns have the short sleeve, elbow length or a trifle above the elbow, finished with a very smart frugal little wife, keeping house for him in two or three rooms, he will say: "Poor Brown, he'll never get anything ahead! His wife doesn't know how to market." Behind the smile of the tradespeople lies contempt for your bad business man agement! A pretty young matron was going over her household accounts with her husband. The gas bill had taken an unaccountable jump, and was almost double the figure It had reached since they had gone to housekeeping. "I'm sure I can't imagine what's the matter," she said. "Of course, since your sister has been here vlnlting wc have u?ed a little more gas entertaining even ings for her, but that ought not double ttio bill." The husband promised he would call at the gas office and have the meter over hauled, but the next morning ho lay In bed until about 10 o'clock, fighting an at tack of grip. When he came downstairs his wife and sister were still at the breakfast table, discussing tho advertise ments in the morning paper and some samples of dress goods. The wife hurried to the kitchen to pre pare her husband s belated breakfast, and came back looking a trifle shamefaced and flushed. "What do you think? I forgot all about the gas in tho oven." she sail to her sister-in-law, "and It has been burning ever since we took out the toast at 3 o'clock." Her husband sipped at his coffee, and then remarked quietly: "I guess I won't go to the office ot the gas company. I don't think it is the meter that needs overhauling." These are some of the little household neglects that in the course of a year make the living expenses formidable instead ot reasonable. It Is not the pretty gown that you buy that discourages your hus band. The average man likes to see his wife well dressed a credit to him la ap pearance, in bearing. But It is the thoughtless waste in little things that do not show or make for actual comfort in the home that really discourages the man who cheerfully turns over his earn ings to his family. It Is little pleasure to him to "realize that he has sworn off from smoking for six months because he wants to build a new porch next Spring, only to heat you wall because the dress maker overcharged you on your findings when he knows quite well that if you had taken the pains to select your lin ings, trimmings, etc., you would have saved tho price of that good box ot cigars which he has been denying himself for weeks. SALLY CHAMBERLIN. "Where Dogs Arc Scarce. Patience This rjarjer sav that !mnih women play with their dolls .even after tncy are married and have children. Isn't that ridiculous? Patrice Oh. well, wrhaiw ihov intWt any dogs la that' country! ' j ! " " " "S2 -r cuff edged with lace. Consequently, one must havo on hand a goodly stock of gloves in elbow length or longer. The glace glove Is now considered the only correct thing for evening wear1, and the more supple suede Is slightly under a cloud In fashionable favor. 'There is no medium In coats. Either you have a, severe empire cut In broad cloth trimmed simply with bands of braid, heavy lace insertion or fur bands, or you go to the very extreme in frivolity ot raiment, and your even ing coat looks like a tea gown, all a mass of lace, chiffon, ribbon embroid ery, and even artificial flowers. The empire cut prevails, even in these, and a great deal of fur Is em ployed in their trimming. "White coats trimmed with ermine arc cxceedlngly good. and are. afteraall, the least ex pensive, as they come out from the cleaner's hands in better shape than the pale-tinted wraps. A very beautiful model noted In the foyer of the Metropolitan Opcra-IIouse was of white chiffon velvet cut In cm Dire StVle. It 1nV? n vrrv ,lnim ,.,. collar back and front, made from solid ermine. The turnback cuffs were of ermine, and on- either1"- side down- tho front ran broad bands of this beauti ful fur. Right next to it was a startling crea tion worn by the daughter of a United States Senator, whose boast is that shfc wears nothing made, this side of Paris. This wrap was built on Greek lines from American beauty red velvet, cm broidcrcd in gold. The elasn was In Fad for Rare RICH with Jewels and exquisite with the most delicate hand carvings, the small watch for miladl's use has gained a place for Itself among rarely beautiful art objects. The inner work ings of the small timepiece have long: ranked it among the most perfect and wonderful of the mechanical devices, but Its precious case now makes It ot surpassing value. The artist's Ingenu ity and the artisan's skill combine to effect the choicest , bit of practical Jewelry that a woman can possess. With all the very newest watches a noticeable feature is their tendency to decrease rather than increase in size, and the majority of the late models arc exceptionally thin. The works In extremely thin watches, however. ar not guaranteed, though the thicker vlraeplcces. which are so tiny as hard ly to cover a 5-cent piece, contain as accurate workings as the most perfect watch in the customary size. Never theless, they require overhauling fre quently If their minute wheels arc to be kept from becoming clogged with Among the less costly 0f the art watch case?, rose gold, that shows the indefinite red hue seen in a nugget, is employed most commonly. The rich color of the precious metal lends a Suitable Furnishings for Children's Rooms "THE modem nursery is one of, the I most interesting rooms In the entire hOUSe. ItS Walls are ft fnln-lun r At1i characters and quaint enes; its pictures are the expression Its small furnishings in Imitation ot larger nouse lutings arc the nerfeetion of oraft. man's skill. It Is. In fact, a miniature world, and the child who Is fortunate enough to be reared In such delightful surroundings has an Individuality all his own.- Take, for instance, the infinite variefv of wall papers which are displayed for children's rooms. Most fascinating is the dull green border that serves as a back ground for colored figures of Noah's ark, trees, and a hundred and one different animals. This forms the deep frieze for a, pale blue wall and makes a room look like a veritable toy land. Another border showing a silver back ground displays a procession of chubby faced children in Butch coxtiim c. playiiupin groups, some with joined kan4s ringing -rouna tae rosy," and ethen busy V. V 'if 4. Y Watches for look of- the object's having been weathered by time, thus greatly en hancing Its artlstlir merits while thn microscopic carvings seem to blend to gether more softly. Noteworthy be cause of its quaint design is a case, with a deeply carved Egyptian motif centering In a beautifully cut scarab the size of the little fingernail. The pin from which this watch is pendent shows spreading Egyptian wings -with glintlngs of variegated enamel shining in the various tiny crevices. Another rare little case has an in distinct head of a girl on the back. The figure has an Illusive charm because of the subtle way in which it emerges from the dull gold background ana becomes a faint blush pink about the cheeks and face. However this color process Is effected, the result Is mar velously fine. Inlaid with Jewels, the watch case gains, of course, tremendously in value. The loveliest of these are In plain or rose gold carved In flower or figure designs that serve a3 an ex quisite setting for tiny precious gems. In one instance tiny iris blooms that cover the back of the watch are each tipped with a brilliant diamond, the entire cluster rising as if to meet a neur ue us rormed by jagged Iris pet- als.- From the heart of the petals at gardening or gathering flowers1. These are but two of mariy nursery papers, any one of which 13 .a picture book In Itself and the cheeriest possible decoration, for little folks' rooms. i A white molding usually finishes the bottom of the frieze, and this affords an excellent catch for picture hooks. Only the brightest faces and the happiest scenes are portrayed in prints that adorn the modern nursery walls. Pictures which suggest scenes In the life ot a grown-up arc barred, and everything In the room is a revelation ot the spirit and fancies of childhood. Frames are usually in -white, painted to look liko porcelain tiling, or are covered with pure white oilcloth stretched tightly on wooden molding. Both admit of fre quent washings and can endure much handling xwlth sticky fingers. Furniture for the little one's lh'ing and sleeping, room is .built - strong and dura ble, but. always with some slight deca ra tion to relieve the severe -plainness. Sin gle beds in dark oak; for Instance, have mottoes Inlaid in white and hln. letters. at the top -of the headboard, and one of th.. meat attfactfire .f?.-these, reaete: gold tissue. "7 ' - An admirable coat for theater wear, rather than "the opera. Is an. empire cut of silver gray broadcloth. The shoulders and the side seams. a3 well as the darts of the shirtwaist or yoke, are hidden by insertion xf 9llver lace. The coat Is double-breasted and deep lapels turn back across thJ busM line. These, In common with the deep turnback- cuff, are of silver gray chif fon velvet embroidered In the most ex quisite pastel shades of blue; pink, lavender and yellow. Buttons of silver In a Russian design finish the coat. Incidentally. Russian jewelry is ex tremely popular, and heavy necklaces of rose gold and pearls show magnif icently carved ivory pendants, which are 'a feature of these almost massive effects. Innumerable chains of pearls, either in the form of a dog collar or a deep flat necklace, are joined by imita tion "Jewels and fasten with rhincstone clasps in choice design. Cameos are also favorite ornaments for the very modish necklace, and the more costly of these display the tiniest water pearls at Intervals along the slender chains. Large coral and tur quoise continue their long vogue. -V coral necklace with three rows of beads graduated in size sells at a figure not under $1500. The- picture hat has almost' disap peared for theater wear. If any hao is. worn' it must be a tip-tilted French chapeau. and should be built by a mas ter hand. These are 4n most dellcata colorings and always carry a touch aS gold. The woman who rides in a carriage, and In fact many 'who use the street cars, wear no hats at all. and their ex quisite coiffures are protected by tha filmiest of scarfs in crepe, moussellne lace and various transparent tissues. Fashionable opera bags are either ot beads or in supple leather with a van ity case tucked away somewhere lit their depths, and. a tiny folding opera glass held in an opening at one s'lde. KATHARINE ANDERSON. mm the Jewel Box peeps out a miniature girl's face and a good-sized diamond rests in. tha parting of her wavy locks. The timepiece of the woman in mourning Is usually inlaid with . pearl motifs. The mysterious beauties ot these shrinking gems are doubly In creased when set against the dead black metal of the case. A favorito pin for holding a watch of this sort i a bowknot of dead black metal' sur rounded on either edge by a row of very wee white pearls. Many of the Jeweled watches do service as lockets, and especially when very thin they make really charming pendants for handsome neck chains. Then. too. the watch set in a finely linked bracelet has. become a member of miladl's jewel box and with embellish ments of enamel or precious stones af- fords an exceptionally handsome orna ment for rounded arms. Quite as curious as it is beautiful, a wateh whose face Is no- larger than a silver dime Is .intended for fastening Into the buttonhole of a coat lapel. A small marguerite of diamonds encircles the min ute face. The works arc Inclosed in a gold case that is somewhat larger than a nickel, and a narrow ring of gold con necting the watch with the face enables this odd bit of jewelry to rest securely in the buttonhole. "Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, "bless the bed that I sleep on." Low bureaus In mission style to match the beds are topped by . looking-glasses ' of goo4 size, and have three- or four wide drawers in which- to keep the children's belongings. Little taMes also are splen didly firm and solid, and will stand in finite scrubbing.? . and Jiard usage. One oblong table In dark wood Is particularly adapted to little folks needs, because ot an extra shelf underneath the broad top, and another small table -is desirable be cause the letters of the alphabet-.are In laid in large tJpe- " The tea party chair for the nursery is built of bamboo or of light oak. and -has a small chair connected by strong rods with a low table that has -folding lids on either: end- Rocking chairs In bamboo are ad mirably suited as, a' nursery furnishing; and for that matter; every child loves the chairs in the. room they use to be jast the "right size." Coucfies, four fee!lQhg are upholstered in ' leather or plushy and wicker "soas In this sltortlengih are sold In the larger shops' Jr. vome c&sm, thpse. have a deep box .underneath' in'w'hlcla U lay little-coats, and drssfcee.'-. . - - , BUSH