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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 21, 1906)
i V VH WW m at Ml J7 V JF r mr, III MM m Jf wm IHc HAT is more delightful," .writes a French authority on dress matters, "than to see a really old woman exquisitely gowned tho woman 'of Go and more who has emerged triumphantly from the storms of life and fallen gracefully into that delicate peace which is the crown of age, that faded and last preltincss which has -earned the right to all the fairer aiid sweeter tilings in life, and which, delicious to relate. Is often accompanied by a captivating fondness for pretty clothes? In short, that lady who is -not 'elderly' any more, but is at last sweetly and simply and bcautlfuily old.' Beginning with mere materials, the textures of the moment in all respects are suited to beautifying age. The gor geous silks, stiff with gold and silver patterns, the handsome and dignified moires, the velvets falling as llghtfy as muslins all these, fashionable when Old World, dames carried Jeweled snuff boxes and worc pale blue and patches and plnk,roscs In their hair, are again In vogue: Some of the colors affected long ago are especially admired this season framboise. vJcux-rosc, .silver blue and In all of these delicate yet rich tints have been seen evening gowns for old ladies. The styles of. theso dresses do not vary greatly from those for more youth ful -wearers. Skirts are perhaps more often plain than trimmed, and there Is a tendency with bodices to conceal stiff ness by means of a. looser cut. But there arc the same yokes, the .same el bow sleeves. In effect if not In reality and in some Instances the same sug gestion of high girdling. Especially for. very slight hgures are the more ele gant styles coquettish and frou-frou, and 2in "n ,damo, 'K"t. to many minds, call for a bonnet, her white head Remunerative Helen Keller in Youth's fmnmninn THE blind as a rule are poor. The par ents of most of tho children In tho institutions for tho blind are working people, and tho man struck blind by ac cident or disease is usually a bread winner. It is not uncommon for a young man to lose his sight in such occupations as stone-cutting, diamond-polishing, glaz ing and blasting rocks. "Without assist ance, men thus .blinded are doomed to in voluntary idleness for the rest of their lives. Up to the present day no adequate pro vision has been made for this class of blind persons in Amorlca, although. Dr. Samuel G. Howe, the friend of all tho af flicted and the pioneer In the education or the blind In tho United States, out lined a plan to meet tho Industrial re quirements of tho adult blind more than 60 years ago. "Wo must cross tho AUantlc and visit the old world to find a practical demon stration of what tho blind can do. The first Institution for the employment of the blind wa3 founded at Edinburgh In 1793. Since then workshops, salesrooms and as sociations of agencies to promote the busi ness Interests of the blind have been es tablished In Europe. In Europe , tho emphasis has been upon industrial training, while in America more attention has been given to book educa tion. "When a pupil in a school for the blind in England or France shows no spe cial aptitude for music or intellectual pursuits, he Is put into the work depart ment, where he learns a trade. Afterward the institution, or one of the agencies for the purpose in his country, seeks out a position for him, and stands by him until he has proved his efficiency. On the other hand, when a student shows marked ability in any direction, he receives op portunity to fit himself for a more re sponsible position. If a school for the blind has trained an organist who Is capable of filling a church position, the agencies for tho blind keep a lookout for a vacancy. "When the agent hears of one, he goes to the place and tells the church commlt- ifa of n hllnfl mnn whn la pnmiwfpnt in fill the position. The committee, is prob-. amy very sKepucai ana very reluctant to try so doubtful an experiment. Tho agent, however, is eloquent, and' persuades them to give the man a triaL The man comes, plays, and conquers. In London there Is a tea agency of which the managers are wholly or partial ly blind. Many blind agents are selling its teas, coffees and cocoas in all parte of England. Last June there w'as held in Edinburgh an exhibition of tho work of the Windfall over the world. A whole floor was devoted to weaving xnachlncs,and typewriters, and blind people demonstrated.. their" skill as is as hat. 'Many very decesy gowns, such as arc designed for receptions, theater wear, visiting, etc.. show a combination of lace . skirt and 'polispo or rcdingote of velvet or .silk or satin. The handsomer of these costumes arc in one color, and the foundation lace of the skirt Is made more impressively rich with heavy guipures and embroideries of all sorts. Purs elaborately voluminous, with talis, and vers' generous In size. accompany these toilettes, which may also with per fect taste be set off by a brooch or chain of precious stones. The lovely old cam eos, once the rage, set with pearls and diamonds, are much affected by the smarter dresser. Bracelets made of vel vet bands, fastened with the smaller of these brooches, arc also in vogue. Gowns strictly for Indoor use show a dressy melange of tea gown" and recep tion toilet. Some charming indoor Ideas developed by a "grand" French house display loose sacqucs of lace over skirts of mousseline, silk or velvet. The revival of shawls Ik a happy kind ness to the old. for many old ladle need constantly to .have something about their shoulders find the lovely designs and colorings of the new ones lend them selves with special grace to the women S2i IT1 ,m,d?lc. a-- No jnatt- w light the shawl, it provides some degree of warmth, and in the long, narrow stripes in which they now come, all can be ea&lly and gracefully draped I-or Intimate every-day use, tho tlnv squares of ice wool, which are every where displayed in lovely old lady grays and violets, are sometimes worn about the head in headdress fashion. A hand some lace scarf shaped into a head dress about the face with a ribbon is always becoming. jn fact, all 4ft and mellowing effects, all casing charS?0 H5dS nd bottoSMS5 charms of the grandmother. Street toilettes. r,,r- th Work for th hMVA TJ. w asyium me blind yeare Salabl arUc,cs for iears, and n three recent years the a-er- stRerli;gnUaI 0,.M abou"d to iS.Cc5o of "th?MinS CWef Irom 6 lo 33 Per nt fca onlv S 'J1 works"I: I Amcr ISL J...600 bl,nd Persons, about 1 jer f ?f fh, cnt,ro ""mber.'are employed in Industrial establishments. cmpioca in Vrishtcr day dned for the blind chu"iS LvhCn Yo and Massa- cnusctts awoke to the necessity of looklnc SSi? CSndU1? f lhc '"htl2 Con nect cut. Pennsylvania. Wisconsin Oall- Stand Michigan are all acUve'lnho effort to make wage-earners of the blind! Sn SUn? fUL Work which " be gun, and should be extended as rapidly as possible, is represented by tho ors of the Massachusetts association to promote the interest, of the aduft Wind This association has opened an experi ment station in Cambridge, to find and JhTS,t?tries Vat Practicable fo? the sightless. The blind are sought out in their homes, and when possibirthcy are taught trades, their work is brought How to Begin IN a household that runs smoothly. one member or the family has to have the courage to be the first up. In tho average home, for some in explicable reason, each person waits for the other one to get out of bed. with the result that every one is dressing- together, and a common mir ror or wash basin is always most in demand when someone else Is using- it As a consequence there is a general confusion, a gTeat rush to the break fast table and a final hustlo to leave tho house, usually with the remark: always late for business," or "Why don't I ever have my breakfast on time?" or that most exasperating- of all exclamations: "it's money, money, all the time!" following a gentle re quest for the weekly allowanco or the wherewithal to pay the grocer's bllL And the breadwinner, bo it man or woman, goes off to business with a scowl and a' lament that such a thing as work was ever invented. Upon the one who stays at home devolves the duty of setting this fre quent morning tangle straight, and the first step is for the housewife to be up at least 13 minutes before it is time for the others to arise. This gives her a -chance to start things go ing in the kitchen arid to call the fam ily, so that each one- will be partially THE SUNDAY OBEGOXIAN. PORTLAND. JANUARY 21, 1906. M-B-Sa9C3r " J ' ' ' naturallv conform In somp rfprw to inn established traditions. There are more old lady frocks in black than anything else, and more old lady bonnets by far than hats. But the finer of the street frocks arc very splendid. The already rich stuffs bristle with the application of other rich matorials, and sometimes. Joyful to relate, there is a smart gown in a rich color, which gives a sturdy old lady a most triumphant air. One such recently seen was made of dark wine-colored cloth, with cut-out cloth In bands upon velvet. The Jaunty Jacket was hip length and loose, the wide three-quarter sleei-cs. which were looped up In a most youthful way. showing- big undcrslecves of wine-colored lace. "With this stunning gown was worn a little Marie Stuart bonnet of wine-colored vel vet, trimmed with the wine-colored os trich feathers tipped with black. The fUrs were baby lamb, the little perlerine and big muff being in the new grand mother shapes. AH the Yurs advanced for aged wearers are of the handsomer sort, as they should be. Persian lamb and babv Iamb arc preferred pelts, but stunning sets are seen In black lynx, sliver lynx and silver fox. to say nothing of almost ju wrappings of Imperial Russian to the notice of the public, and the capac ity of blind men and women to operate certain automatic machines in factories Is demonstrated to employers. Hitherto the chief industries of the blind have been the manufacture of brooms, mattresses, baskets, brushes and mats, not all or which are profitable in this country. Tho effort should be to increase tho number of possible lucrative occu pations for the sightless. A young man was trained at the slation in Cambridge in 30 days to cut box coroors In a paper and tag factor to. the satis faction or Ids employer. Another young man has succeeded in taking, by moans or a shorthand writing machine, accept able interviews for a newspaper. A young blind woman was taken from .tho poor house, where sho had been for three years, and placed in a hairpin factorv where she has found work that she "is capable of doing. The experiment station is now at work on a patented mop invented by a blind man. This "Wonder mop" can be made entirely without sight, and the plan is to have blind agents from Maine to Cali fornia sell it. . Good Natured awakened and waiting for his or her turn to dress. Aggravating delays in dressing usually are caused by some garment being minus a button, a buttonhole being broken, or the failure to find some ar ticle of attire which was sent to the laundry and has noyet found its way back to the owner's bureau. This is another small but. Important task which the housewife must attend to ir she wishes to have the family start off happily in tho morning. At the end of every week all buttons should bo sewed on, the stockings mended and folded, the shirts from the steam laundry looked over to make sure they don't need attention, and then all care fully put away in their respective bu reau drawers. Nothing is quite so helpful in the morning, or at any time for that matter, as to find one's clothes in their customary place and ready to put on. . . The housewife needs also to keep the racks well filled with clean towels, for It takes time when a person's eves are half-shut with water and hands are dripping wet to hunt around In search of a wiper with which to dry them. And this is more likely than not to happen if fresh towels arc not hung in place immediately tho soiled one arc taken down to be laundered. That tho breakfast should be oil the Ublb the moment the family is ready sable. Ermine, too, has its place in the wardrobe of the elegant woman of advanced years, for tills snowy and precious skin is the privilege of all. It is seen forming the collars and cuffs of some magnificent evening wraps. It is also used as lining for the more superb of these, and there arc charming carriage hoods -of ermine with accompanying murrs so big that they would be a burden were it not for the feathery lightness now in vogue for all furs. "When gowned In pale gray or violet, with a pt-lcrinc and muff of ermine, the evening bonnet of a grand old lady." writes the afore quoted authority, "should show a white aigrette Immensely high. Held by a Jeweled clasp, the white aigrette is also a recognized ornament de coiffure, adorable grandmothers wearing them a well as their granddaughters, more chic of these charming old ladles also carry round lorgnettes (round glass) and little boltes de pastilles (boxes of throat lozenges) shaped exactly like tho gold snuff boxes of ancient times. In fact some arc the genuine article, those of all the Iiouis periods having at present a tremendous vogue." Apropos or things French -the tinseled trifles of the moment. especially in the lo sit "down is most essential, and it should hi piping hot, too. The man or woman who starts off to work on a warm, nourishing breakfast generally "ousc wun a smue. ana un less the menl Tins - horn su.-n llntr-orl In three of four mouthful-, the smile will not "como off" all day. Heavy food should never be sent to the family breakfast table, and hashes of all sorts should be reserved for luncheon. Eggs, a freshly-brewed hot cup of tea or coffee, a hot, crisp roll and a bit of fruit, if possible, arc am ple for any one who works in an office all day. On the. other- imnri ty,n nr-nn who is- out of doors a great deal should oc crvca a iuu-ncdgcd meal. The stay-at-homes should appear at tho breakfast table with a well groomed look, even though it is early in the moraine. It helni thai, vhn out as breadwinners to have the rest ot tne family interested enough to bo On hand for n phi-prr- "Rnmi nnm and to have a trim, wideawake ap pearance. Ff nail v. there ari verr- fn nnranno whose disposition will endure much conversation before the middle of the mornintr or noon nnd Vin tr o -.ii woman who is chary of her words at n cany nour oi tne day. iicn especial ly have the whole plan or tho day's work mapped out In their minds before leaving the house in the morning, and it Is most distracting- to bo pestered with a thousand-and-ono unimportant questions that have no bearing on the business or the day. "Women in Men's Vocations. Logansport, Ind., can boast' of a woman who runs an engine, fires a boiler and keeps the books In her hus band's establishment. Sho is Mrs. H. D. Schaefer. Beside her work on the machinery she keeps house and at tends to the care and education of her two little girls. Tho first woman to hgld a position or lecturer on agriculture and domes tic science in the University of Cali fornia is Miss Metta Edna. "Woodworth. whose homo is in Burlington. Ia. She has devoted herself tc sanitation of farmhouses, house buildings, preserva tion of foods and cooking. For 13 years Mrs. Matilda Coxe Stevenson explored the Hocky Mount ains with her husband, collecting arch aic implements, ceramics and ceremo nial objects for the United States Ra tional Museum. She has been invalu able to the -Bureau of American Eth nology, and Is now a member of Its staff. An Explanation. 'T beg your pardon, waiter," said the tourist In -the railway restaurant, "did you say that I -had minutes to wait or that it was'.39. minutes to eight?" "I said nay ther," 'answered the Hibernian attend-, ant. "I said yer had twisty minutes to ate. ah' -that's' all ye had. Yer thrala's E0ne how." Cleveland' Leader. form of military garnlshlngs. arc charming for the old- The sophisticated shades of gold and sliver, leaning as they do to wistfully tarnished effects, always seem somehow to need a history, a life, to carry them off. So a little bonnet tenderly colored In faint violet, gray, or some of the shades of white, set off by these dimly luminous blossoms, is ador able upon a fine gray head. The hard ness or some of the tinseled roses Is softened by means of tulle centers, the green used showing often a moss rose hue. An elegant bonnet for the dressiest mo ments Is a vers essential need for a worn-, an in years, and since fashion allows her the daintiest colors. It may be most ten derly tinted. But since the majority of old ladies prefer black, a number .of smarter bonnets are of Jet or lace, with superb touches or white. Lace applica tions, an aigrette, or ostrich feathers, may effect this touch. Narrow velvet strings, which aro still tied In a little bow under the chin, show a facing of white satin. And now for some descriptions or cos tumes lately designed for actual wearers. Taking the drawing. "Indoor and Vis iting Toilets." first, the elahorat mm worn by the visitor 13 of a matchless love Some Suitable Prizes for the CA-tD PARTIES Just at this season arc the all-popular manner or enter taining one's friends, and the crying need of the successful hostess is a selec tion of suitable prizes. That they shall be Inexpensive is essential, for costly gifts are quite out of date, and the woman whoso prizes are most sought after is sho who gives small, useful articles that still arc attractive and somewhat unusual. Then. too. a hostess has to keep in mind In considering the tastes ot both men and women that she Is catering to their likes rather than to her own fancies. For this reason the most acceptable prizes arc In leather or in crystal and nickel, both or which shape ao many of the new desk and office table appliances, as well as numberless convenient trap pings that make up a smoker's 'equip ment. Leather articles are partlcularly neat and appeal quite as strongly to feminine tastes, while the crystal novel ties are the very newest offering of the "Winter. Practical prizes among the leather goods are boxes and cases that Inclose playing cards and complete outfits for the va rious, games of euchre, bridge whist, penochle. etc. A single case holds only one game, but everything that could pos sibly be used 'in playing It. including rules, - tally cards, pencils and reckoning pails, is enclosed in the leather receptacle. Boxes in all sorts of odd shapes, marked "Bridge." are covered with paper In splen did imitation or the fancy leathers, and are a real ornament, aside from their be ing wonderfully handy for persons with whom whist is a regular pastime, Another desirable prize In leather is a pack of playing-cards with artistically decorated backs, wrapped In a supple case or delicately tinted suede. The latter Is merely a strip ot leather in old rose. porcelain blue or lavender, with a nickel clasp on either end. "Narrow straps hold the cards securely In the center or the case. Prettily printed playing-cards, with gilt edges, are also inclosed in a flexible pasteboard case, covered with denim and set off by a band-painted scene or an embroidered scroll. The trump dlsplaycr. a whist acces sory, which has long been needed, has at last made Its appearance, and Is to be found both In leather and nickel. In form it Is very much like a ring or watch basket, with a button at thctop, which regulates the small celluloid discs marked in red and black, with' diamonds, hearts, cluos and spades. These indicators are sold in several different sizes at from one to three dollars apiece.. Crystal- smoking -sets; .with, nickel frames, display all sorts of Ingenious dc- vkas, sot tke least unusual -of which is-j MflF R 1MPDWV Ni-KSi??MHU-fttf ilk IV ,?Sfi'C liness. "With a skirt or black lace, maroon guipure and net, is a pelisse or maroon velvet applied with black guipure. The hat is of white lace, faced with maroon velvet, and It Is trimmed with maroon feathers interspersed with black and white.' The furs are silver fox. The graceful and suitable toilet worn by the hostess Is a scheme in gray and silver-blue. The full tucked skirt Is of gray chiffon cloth over a silk lining in the dim moonlight blue. The loose coat 13 also gray. Heavy guipure lace over blue chiffon forms It, with the gray chiffon cloth for the sleeves, and a band or silver blue velvet edging the f,ront. Pure white net, embroidered at the edge with Silver, shapes the vest. Two charming wraps for evening or ele gant day use are shown by the second drawing. The most distinctive or the pair Is given in two poses, back and front view, and in this Instance the materials used are pale gray chiffon velvet and ermine. But any soft silk properly inter lined could be employed for this most graceful wrap, which a good dressmaker could carry out with ease. "While most concealing, the lines of this wrap have yet a stamp or delightful coquetry, the pelerine arrangement or the back and a long, narrow tray of thick, clear glass edged with nickel, and having attached on one side a miniature steam boiler in nickel. 'which serves as . a lamp to light cigars and cigarettes. Matchboxes, ash trays, cigar-cutters, etc.. can also be found In this bright crystal ware, and af ford a really charming prize for men. Quite impersonal, also, but always an acceptable present, are the numerous fit tings for a desk In brass, of wiitM, I Is more fascinating than the paper clips v itj " -uua. tjiec-pj.- uwisncrce bulldogs, and even elephants' heads, are hammered In brass "and form the upper part of a strong spring clip that Is In tended to keep letters and various docu Pie Guaranteed Digestible New York Tribune. WHEN properly made and eaten in moderation, pie - is a wholesome food. But how seldom are It? crusts and filling prepared with that care which Is necessary to produce- a digestible dish. A simple rule for pastry, and one that Is new to these columns, is the following: To every six large tablespoonfuls of flour add three ordinary tablespoonfuls of but- ,ter. Mix together with a knife, stir in seven tablespoonfuls of Ice water and mix again. Add a little lemon Juice. Then proceed as for any ordinary rule. This recipe does not contain as much butter as most piecrust rules, and .-therefore Is not so rich. The touch of lemon Juice, however, gives the needed tenderness. In recard to numnkln nl. if hot-nr? pumpkin Is used instead or boiled pump-. lun. me pip win ne richer- Place the pieces of pumpkin on a large pie plate. Cover with a deep tin. and place In the oven. WHen the pumpkin Is tender it- Is readv. There will be no nunerflnrma lulr clinging to It, as Is the case with boiled pumpkin. It will not brown it DroDerlv covered. It pumpkin Is preferred boiled. placo It on the back ot the stpve without peeling it. and. add Just enough water to keep It from burning. Let ir steam In this wav op c aritiniiv cook, for several hours. . Long, slow cook ing seems to bring, out the flavor of pump kin. Do not think vou e&n mnlro n. ccssfuf pumpkin, pie without a plentiful use or good, fresh eggs?. PumjJkln pie Is by right a form of custard. It should bake so me tlmn i that th otitnr nciti. absorb the 'pumpkin pulp "and codk down until the vrhnlo to th pumpkin, pic that ls not cooked sufflcIentlV in rufr ior pwapKin pie, nas. foaad tke follewiBg the beat: To efery cape effect of the front suiting, however, only a very old lady. The coat shown in the center is of black satin, ermine and white guipure. Black cloth, or cloth In any suitable shade, could likewise be employed for this coat, and Persian lamb and black guipure would render It suitable for any service. But coming down to the very gist or things, even though a degree of aston ishing .gaiety is allowed the very oldest ladies, the wearer's type must never theless be still considered. Slim figures: have decidedly, more privileges in point of cut than stouter ones, and the good complexioned more leeway In point of col oring than the woman with little or no color. But the fact that old ladles can once more bo dressed in joyous ways I3 cer tainly a matter for congratulation, for there is no doubt that blithe externals bring about happier frames of mind. "At last," concludes the French writer, "since the old are like the very young, the sweetest ornaments of the household, daughters should consider the planning of toilets for grandmamma their sacred pleasure. Many an old lady would bo. divinely gowned If she had the strength to wrestle with the problem or clothes.- MARY DEAN. Card Parties ments from blowing away or from being scattered loosely over the desk. Ink wells of crystal are similarly adorned the hammered brass heads acting as a; cover for the ink receptacle. Along with these useful and decorative prizes are some really comical ornaments; in porcelain, which cause a great deat of fun. A dog with his head in a. red bandana handkerchief, a cat with star ing eyes and dotted with odd geometrical figures, or a group of one or two rabbits wrought In purest white porcelain, aro valuable not only as unique bric-a-brac, but by reason of their being copies oC. the famous royal Copenhagen porcelain they have a highly artistic value as wclL four cups of pumpkin add four cups oC milk, tour eggs, a cup and a hair or sugar, hair a grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of ginger, a tablespoonful of mace and a teaspoonful ot salt. Half a cup of cream' adds richness. An old subscriber tn th Trihnno va that in . return for helpful hints given to her in these columns she sends her rule for apple pie. She prepares the crust the day before baking. .The apples are steamed on top of the stove until rather tender, but not broken. Just as they are put in the pie the sugar and a pinch of cinna mon' are added; then the top crust Is put on and the whole baked. An Irish apple pie makes an agreeable change. Cut the apples Into the thinnest of; slices, sprinkle them with sugar, add the grated rind or hair a lemon and three cloves to every pie. Bake with an upper crust. This recipe will be found nice if made Into small Individual pies in "o called tart forms. Someone has suggested serving lemon pies In the form of small tarts, because there will then be no danger of seeing the meringue, collapse In the center when it Is served. If the meringue is cooked long enough and in an oven that is slow; enough, after the egg whites have- been thoroughly whipped, there wilt be no danger of such x mishap. Individual lem on; tarts, however.. are delightful. A good VVm0lVbatter for them ,s raade as follows: Mix-half a. pound or pulverized sugar"? with one or two yplks or eggs and th pated-rlnd and JuJce ot 1 lemons- Fold in the whites or three eggs. Stir it over the fire, for a few minutes and fill the tart shells. 1 '. Fair Exchange No "Robbery , He How -beautiful. you are today. . Sbe-And --how witty yeu were y&sterr". day.-i Le Rire.. - 49 S i - lM-- ilplflffffll
