The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, January 21, 1906, PART FOUR, Page 42, Image 42

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    the form o a-pair of roses made -?
EE2V ST THE?
HE grand opora season in "New
York and adjacent cities finally"
determines the peculiarities in
evening dress for each season Before
this event the opening night at the
Metropolitan Opera-House fashions
hto more or less nebulous, but hardly
lias the first week rolled around than
H is pretty well settled that certain
colors are to enjoy a pronounced vogue
and certain styles of hair dressing are
absolutely essontial for evening. Even
the fads in Jewelry are fixed by the
women who occupy the grand parterre.
. Unquestionably mauve is immensely
successful this year, and this most
trying of shades is rendered more pos
sible by the fact that the mauve fab
Yfc proper is sprinkled or studded with
Sequins which carry the softer opal
escent tints. Mauve is distinctly the
color of the purest of blondes and the
clear-skinned brunette. No tint be
trays more relentlessly the nsr nf
- Women Who
PIXDINGS in the divorce court to the
contrary notwithstanding, there arc
thousands upon thousands of men
who love their wives In the good, old
fashioned way and live up to their' mar
riage vow, "With all my worldly goods 1
thee endow."
. These are the men who, at the end of
tjic wcck or tne end of the month, turn
ovor to the wives in whom they have ab
solute faith all of their earnings save the
small' amount necessary for their personal
expenses. And because thorc arc so
many of these men they are hopelessly
commonplace, and their pictures do not
fjind their way into print along with fig
ures in the divorce courts.
J Two Irish women, thrifty looking and
comfortably dressed, were discussing a
dcath in the neighborhood.
"'Sure. O'Shaughnessy was a foinc man.
Oi'd always thought Oi'd a folne man
mysilf, but when Mrs. O'Shaughncssy
tould mo how her man gave her all his
wages but tin cents a wake. I took off
me hat to her."
Tho following is tho experience of a
nian who makes $50 a week, and is paying
for a suburban home on the installment
plan. He was standing in a tobacco shop
with a friend. Both were admiring on old
pipe rack at ?L75. Said Jones:
"I'd like to have that, but Oh. well,
1 guess I can get along without it till we
have tho house paid for, anyhow."
The next day lie came down to the of
fice and remarked to his fellow-worker
.with grim humor:
""I wish I'd bought the pipe rack. "When
I got home last night I found my wife
had been to a bargain sale and bought me
three 75-cent neckties in colors I detest
and a silver blotting pad for my desk.
Can j-ou beat it?"
This is a question we ought to ask our
selves at the end of each week:
'How have I spent my husband's earn
ings?" "VVc fall into a way of thinking that
they ar,c our earnings, particularly if wo
have iiot worked for our living, but have
stepped from a sheltered home life into
the responsibilities of wifehood. And only
tke woman who has worked down town,
side by side with men, knows how easy
it. is to spend a dollar here and there
rather than to turn the week's earnings
Into the household fund intact.
.On the other hand, it takes a goodly
amount of moral courage to wear an
overcoat that has turned 'green in the
scams because your wife needs a new
freck to wear to tho woman's club meet
vS
1
v
makoup, though even those women
long past the heyday of youth try to"
defy ita power by the most skillful
employment of cosmetics and coiffure
builders.
Another shadethat Is extremely try
ing to the complexion, but most ex
quisite under artificial light, is genu
ino silver gray in palest tint, which
for evening wear appears in chiffon,
velvet, brocades and satin-surfaced
silks. Combined with real lace any
silver or pearl trimmings, these hues
stand next to whito in the estimation
of the women who affoct the most del
icate of raiment.
Princess styles are greatly in vogue
at tho opera, and the severely plain
skirt lines are carried up to tho point
of the decollctcgc, which is finlshca
with frills of laco or the most wonder
ful of hand embroideries mixed with
jewels.
1 :
Respect Husband's Earnings
ings and a certain curly-headed boy scuffs
out a pair of shoes c-cry month.
There has never been a time when it
was so easy to waste money. The con
veniences placed at the housewife's dis
posalthe telephone, the groccrv boy who
calls for orders, the postal card" addressed
to grocer, butcher and baker all these
cunningly invite the handler of the house-
noiu iunas to leisurely and Incidentally
extravagant methods of marketing.
That is particularly true in large cities,
where the dealer does not consider steady
customers the secret of his prosperity,
but who feels that there is safety in
numbers or population, for whenever a
dissatisfied customer withdraws patron
age a less exacting one appears on the
commercial horizon.
The woman who orders by telephone,
postal or tho order boy who calls at her
kitchen doors wastes about 10 per cent
of the money she pays out. This goes
principally into the sccondcuts of meat
when she has ordered a first; into high
priced canned goods when, if she wcro at
the store, she would see other grades well
suited to her needs at a more reasonable
figure.
She should bear in mind that the prime
motive of a salesman is to induce each
customer to buy Just a little more or a
trifle higher-priced goods than she In
tended to when she started out.
Now, if sho telephones tlwit she wants
a can of peas, a pound of prunes and a
package of macaroni without asking
about prices or whether there Is a spe
cial sale on In these goods, she Is liable
to get French peas Instead of home
grown, at double the price; the finest of
imported prunes Instead of the less ex
pensive but equally as good California
variety, and a fancv rrrado. of mn
In these three Items alone she will waste
one-tnlrd of her Investment. 2Cot because
good roods are not the mnKt ornnnmlosl
Il the lone- mil. "hut Wjuisp. In n fr-mrollw
managed household, the American wares
unit equai iavor witn lmportea goods,
and there is no excuse for paying for a
high-priced foreign label.
If she telephones to the butcher that
she wants a roast of about eight pounds
of a certain cut h win l
word "about" to suit his own purposes.
wnicn are to increase her account, when
the roast is delivered shn flnr1 lint u
Welchs a trifle over nlnn nminrtn
charged for nine pounds ana a half,
ana Jt is not tne cut sue ordered.
Then shr adds furthpf in imr- Y-rnsn
by falling the butcher over the 'phone and
ucijitujmus an explanation, .tie tells her
that it was the best he mnM An nn Vcf
order, and he In sorrv. and win nnt w ir
happen again. If she had gone to the
market she would have been furnished
with the cut -desired. Ah expert butcher
K
One gown that created an-enormous
sensation was cut princess Ptylc in
white crepe de chine, finished very
simply around the docollctcge with
rose fiutings of whito tulle. The bot
tom of the skirt was finished with the
Vandyke point effect in black sequins.
The wearer carried a huge black fan
and wore in her fair hair a butterfly
of black spangles. The heavy band ot
trimming at the foot of the princess
gown is almost essential, as it drags
It downward and gives the Blender,
graceful lines needed to set off a prin
cess frock properly.
Very few plain lace dresses have
been introduced at the opera. "Whllo
the lace robe Is still used, this expen
sive foundation is mcrclv secondary to
the embroidery with which it is over
laid. Tliis embroidery reproduces
enormous sprays of flowers Joined or
tied with embroideries simulating rib
bon garlands or Marie Antoinette
bows.
Generally, the bottom of the skirt
has shaped double flounces, tho Junc
can cut his meat within an ounce of the
amount ordered.
A woman who runs a large boarding
house and always pays cash recently had
a wordy war with her butcher. It ended
with her withdrawing her custom en
tirely. In speaking of the matter with a
ouKincss man she said:
"I was amazed that he would treat a
customer who always nald cash In such
an Insulting fashion. I suppose if I ran
an account ana nc was airam mat ne
would never get his money, he would
have treated me better."
The man looked at her pityingly.
"Oh, you don't know the first thing
about business." he said. "A butcher docs
not make his money off his cash custom
ers, but from those who carry accounts
or books 'wjth him. The cash customer
whodocs her own marketing knows what
sho Is buying. The woman who places
her order with a boy, or orders by phone,
has half a pound added here and a little
extra price there. Not that the butcher
Is dishonest. He simply gives her more
than she needs, or a more expensive cut
than she ordered, because 'he wants to
get rid of his stock, and 15 or 30 cents
written In a book never looks half as big
as when paid out from your purse."
Of course, it is natural that a.woman
should enjoy her popularity among trades
people. She likes to havea door opened
for her by one clerk, her umbrella raised
for her by another, and all seasoned by
a parting bow from the proprietor him
self, "but she can depend upon It that
her husband pays for all this. It Is
added to the bill.
The woman who docs not personally
select her green groceries, such as vege
tables, fruits, etc, will be the loser by
at least 23 per cent. Telephone to your
vegetable man that-you want a bunch of
his best celery, and he will send you the
best that Is left over from yesterday's
stock. If you are on the ground you have
no difficulty in telling which Is yester
day's stock and which today's.
Order a peck of his best cooking apples
by the boy, and you may depend upon It
that they will eomi from
barrel tucked somewhere behind the
shelf. They will not be the Al apples
piled up artistically to advertise hir. wares
and catch customers who are on the
ground.
This Is not considered dishbnest. It Is
filmnlv modern methods of mmmorm if
you do not look after the wise expendi
ture of vour husband' Mrnlnw shf
should vour butcher Or vniir r-r-r- r '
your baker do it for you? He may smile i
upon j-ou wnen you can 10 pay your week
ly r montkly account, but to "his own i
-V'-i
"
"SJ'- it,''
:(
.1.1
tion being completely hidden by hand
embroidery. Pink and blue are the fa
vorite colors in combination on white
or cream-colored lace, the blue being
used for the ribbon garlands, or bows
of pink with a pinkish yellow. Ameri
can Beauty roses are also used for this
embroidery, and pansies appear on the
robes for elderly women.
There is more or less of a vogue for
gold, but It will hardly pay for a wom
an of moderate means to indulge this
fancy. A gold rose for the hat or to
set off the marabout muff 'or stole is
all very well, but a gown cmbroiderea
heavily in gold thread Is a distinct ex
travagance, and will hardly last an
other season. Already the gold belt
and the gold eelnture on hats is under
the ban of well-dressed women.
Shoes for wear to the opera or thea
ter this year are very extravagant.
Thesatin slipper must match the gown
If evening dress is worn. For tho
theater, when a somewhat elaborate
tailored dress 1b worn, patent leathct
shoes arc essential.
The enormous, buckles set In rhlne
stoncs which we'ro used at the begin
ning of the season are giving place to
the Louis Qulnsc bow.
All theater gowns have the short
sleeve, elbow length or a trifle above
the elbow, finished with a very smart
frugal little wife, keeping house for him
in two or three rooms, he will say:
"Poor Brown, he'll never get anything
ahead! His wife doesn't know how to
market."
Behind the smile of the tradespeople
lies contempt for your bad business man
agement! A pretty young matron was going over
her household accounts with her husband.
The gas bill had taken an unaccountable
jump, and was almost double the figure
It had reached since they had gone to
housekeeping.
"I'm sure I can't imagine what's the
matter," she said. "Of course, since your
sister has been here vlnlting wc have
u?ed a little more gas entertaining even
ings for her, but that ought not double
ttio bill."
The husband promised he would call at
the gas office and have the meter over
hauled, but the next morning ho lay In
bed until about 10 o'clock, fighting an at
tack of grip. When he came downstairs
his wife and sister were still at the
breakfast table, discussing tho advertise
ments in the morning paper and some
samples of dress goods.
The wife hurried to the kitchen to pre
pare her husband s belated breakfast, and
came back looking a trifle shamefaced
and flushed.
"What do you think? I forgot all about
the gas in tho oven." she sail to her
sister-in-law, "and It has been burning
ever since we took out the toast at 3
o'clock."
Her husband sipped at his coffee, and
then remarked quietly:
"I guess I won't go to the office ot the
gas company. I don't think it is the
meter that needs overhauling."
These are some of the little household
neglects that in the course of a year make
the living expenses formidable instead
ot reasonable. It Is not the pretty gown
that you buy that discourages your hus
band. The average man likes to see his
wife well dressed a credit to him la ap
pearance, in bearing. But It is the
thoughtless waste in little things that
do not show or make for actual comfort
in the home that really discourages the
man who cheerfully turns over his earn
ings to his family. It Is little pleasure
to him to "realize that he has sworn off
from smoking for six months because he
wants to build a new porch next Spring,
only to heat you wall because the dress
maker overcharged you on your findings
when he knows quite well that if you
had taken the pains to select your lin
ings, trimmings, etc., you would have
saved tho price of that good box ot cigars
which he has been denying himself for
weeks. SALLY CHAMBERLIN.
"Where Dogs Arc Scarce.
Patience This rjarjer sav that !mnih
women play with their dolls .even after
tncy are married and have children. Isn't
that ridiculous?
Patrice Oh. well, wrhaiw ihov intWt
any dogs la that' country! ' j
! " " "
"S2
-r
cuff edged with lace. Consequently,
one must havo on hand a goodly stock
of gloves in elbow length or longer.
The glace glove Is now considered the
only correct thing for evening wear1,
and the more supple suede Is slightly
under a cloud In fashionable favor.
'There is no medium In coats. Either
you have a, severe empire cut In broad
cloth trimmed simply with bands of
braid, heavy lace insertion or fur
bands, or you go to the very extreme
in frivolity ot raiment, and your even
ing coat looks like a tea gown, all a
mass of lace, chiffon, ribbon embroid
ery, and even artificial flowers.
The empire cut prevails, even in
these, and a great deal of fur Is em
ployed in their trimming. "White coats
trimmed with ermine arc cxceedlngly
good. and are. afteraall, the least ex
pensive, as they come out from the
cleaner's hands in better shape than
the pale-tinted wraps.
A very beautiful model noted In the
foyer of the Metropolitan Opcra-IIouse
was of white chiffon velvet cut In cm
Dire StVle. It 1nV? n vrrv ,lnim ,.,.
collar back and front, made from solid
ermine. The turnback cuffs were of
ermine, and on- either1"- side down- tho
front ran broad bands of this beauti
ful fur.
Right next to it was a startling crea
tion worn by the daughter of a United
States Senator, whose boast is that shfc
wears nothing made, this side of Paris.
This wrap was built on Greek lines
from American beauty red velvet, cm
broidcrcd in gold. The elasn was In
Fad for Rare
RICH with Jewels and exquisite with
the most delicate hand carvings,
the small watch for miladl's use has
gained a place for Itself among rarely
beautiful art objects. The inner work
ings of the small timepiece have long:
ranked it among the most perfect and
wonderful of the mechanical devices,
but Its precious case now makes It ot
surpassing value. The artist's Ingenu
ity and the artisan's skill combine to
effect the choicest , bit of practical
Jewelry that a woman can possess.
With all the very newest watches a
noticeable feature is their tendency to
decrease rather than increase in size,
and the majority of the late models
arc exceptionally thin. The works In
extremely thin watches, however. ar
not guaranteed, though the thicker
vlraeplcces. which are so tiny as hard
ly to cover a 5-cent piece, contain as
accurate workings as the most perfect
watch in the customary size. Never
theless, they require overhauling fre
quently If their minute wheels arc to
be kept from becoming clogged with
Among the less costly 0f the art
watch case?, rose gold, that shows the
indefinite red hue seen in a nugget, is
employed most commonly. The rich
color of the precious metal lends a
Suitable Furnishings for Children's Rooms
"THE modem nursery is one of, the
I most interesting rooms In the entire
hOUSe. ItS Walls are ft fnln-lun r At1i
characters and quaint enes; its pictures
are the expression
Its small furnishings in Imitation ot larger
nouse lutings arc the nerfeetion of oraft.
man's skill. It Is. In fact, a miniature
world, and the child who Is fortunate
enough to be reared In such delightful
surroundings has an Individuality all his
own.-
Take, for instance, the infinite variefv
of wall papers which are displayed for
children's rooms. Most fascinating is the
dull green border that serves as a back
ground for colored figures of Noah's ark,
trees, and a hundred and one different
animals. This forms the deep frieze for a,
pale blue wall and makes a room look
like a veritable toy land.
Another border showing a silver back
ground displays a procession of chubby
faced children in Butch coxtiim c.
playiiupin groups, some with joined kan4s
ringing -rouna tae rosy," and ethen busy
V.
V
'if 4.
Y
Watches for
look of- the object's having been
weathered by time, thus greatly en
hancing Its artlstlir merits while thn
microscopic carvings seem to blend to
gether more softly. Noteworthy be
cause of its quaint design is a case,
with a deeply carved Egyptian motif
centering In a beautifully cut scarab
the size of the little fingernail. The
pin from which this watch is pendent
shows spreading Egyptian wings -with
glintlngs of variegated enamel shining
in the various tiny crevices.
Another rare little case has an in
distinct head of a girl on the back. The
figure has an Illusive charm because
of the subtle way in which it emerges
from the dull gold background ana
becomes a faint blush pink about the
cheeks and face. However this color
process Is effected, the result Is mar
velously fine.
Inlaid with Jewels, the watch case
gains, of course, tremendously in
value. The loveliest of these are In
plain or rose gold carved In flower or
figure designs that serve a3 an ex
quisite setting for tiny precious gems.
In one instance tiny iris blooms that
cover the back of the watch are each
tipped with a brilliant diamond, the
entire cluster rising as if to meet a
neur ue us rormed by jagged Iris pet-
als.- From the heart of the petals
at gardening or gathering flowers1. These
are but two of mariy nursery papers, any
one of which 13 .a picture book In Itself
and the cheeriest possible decoration, for
little folks' rooms. i
A white molding usually finishes the
bottom of the frieze, and this affords an
excellent catch for picture hooks. Only
the brightest faces and the happiest
scenes are portrayed in prints that adorn
the modern nursery walls. Pictures which
suggest scenes In the life ot a grown-up
arc barred, and everything In the room is
a revelation ot the spirit and fancies of
childhood.
Frames are usually in -white, painted to
look liko porcelain tiling, or are covered
with pure white oilcloth stretched tightly
on wooden molding. Both admit of fre
quent washings and can endure much
handling xwlth sticky fingers.
Furniture for the little one's lh'ing and
sleeping, room is .built - strong and dura
ble, but. always with some slight deca ra
tion to relieve the severe -plainness. Sin
gle beds in dark oak; for Instance, have
mottoes Inlaid in white and hln. letters.
at the top -of the headboard, and one of
th.. meat attfactfire .f?.-these, reaete:
gold tissue. "7 ' -
An admirable coat for theater wear,
rather than "the opera. Is an. empire
cut of silver gray broadcloth. The
shoulders and the side seams. a3 well
as the darts of the shirtwaist or
yoke, are hidden by insertion xf 9llver
lace. The coat Is double-breasted and
deep lapels turn back across thJ busM
line. These, In common with the deep
turnback- cuff, are of silver gray chif
fon velvet embroidered In the most ex
quisite pastel shades of blue; pink,
lavender and yellow. Buttons of silver
In a Russian design finish the coat.
Incidentally. Russian jewelry is ex
tremely popular, and heavy necklaces
of rose gold and pearls show magnif
icently carved ivory pendants, which
are 'a feature of these almost massive
effects. Innumerable chains of pearls,
either in the form of a dog collar or a
deep flat necklace, are joined by imita
tion "Jewels and fasten with rhincstone
clasps in choice design.
Cameos are also favorite ornaments
for the very modish necklace, and the
more costly of these display the tiniest
water pearls at Intervals along the
slender chains. Large coral and tur
quoise continue their long vogue. -V
coral necklace with three rows of
beads graduated in size sells at a
figure not under $1500.
The- picture hat has almost' disap
peared for theater wear. If any hao
is. worn' it must be a tip-tilted French
chapeau. and should be built by a mas
ter hand. These are 4n most dellcata
colorings and always carry a touch aS
gold.
The woman who rides in a carriage,
and In fact many 'who use the street
cars, wear no hats at all. and their ex
quisite coiffures are protected by tha
filmiest of scarfs in crepe, moussellne
lace and various transparent tissues.
Fashionable opera bags are either ot
beads or in supple leather with a van
ity case tucked away somewhere lit
their depths, and. a tiny folding opera
glass held in an opening at one s'lde.
KATHARINE ANDERSON.
mm
the Jewel Box
peeps out a miniature girl's face and
a good-sized diamond rests in. tha
parting of her wavy locks.
The timepiece of the woman in
mourning Is usually inlaid with . pearl
motifs. The mysterious beauties ot
these shrinking gems are doubly In
creased when set against the dead
black metal of the case. A favorito
pin for holding a watch of this sort i
a bowknot of dead black metal' sur
rounded on either edge by a row of
very wee white pearls.
Many of the Jeweled watches do
service as lockets, and especially when
very thin they make really charming
pendants for handsome neck chains.
Then. too. the watch set in a finely
linked bracelet has. become a member
of miladl's jewel box and with embellish
ments of enamel or precious stones af-
fords an exceptionally handsome orna
ment for rounded arms.
Quite as curious as it is beautiful, a
wateh whose face Is no- larger than a
silver dime Is .intended for fastening Into
the buttonhole of a coat lapel. A small
marguerite of diamonds encircles the min
ute face. The works arc Inclosed in a
gold case that is somewhat larger than a
nickel, and a narrow ring of gold con
necting the watch with the face enables
this odd bit of jewelry to rest securely
in the buttonhole.
"Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, "bless
the bed that I sleep on."
Low bureaus In mission style to match
the beds are topped by . looking-glasses
' of goo4 size, and have three- or four wide
drawers in which- to keep the children's
belongings. Little taMes also are splen
didly firm and solid, and will stand in
finite scrubbing.? . and Jiard usage. One
oblong table In dark wood Is particularly
adapted to little folks needs, because ot
an extra shelf underneath the broad top,
and another small table -is desirable be
cause the letters of the alphabet-.are In
laid in large tJpe- "
The tea party chair for the nursery is
built of bamboo or of light oak. and -has a
small chair connected by strong rods with
a low table that has -folding lids on either:
end- Rocking chairs In bamboo are ad
mirably suited as, a' nursery furnishing;
and for that matter; every child loves the
chairs in the. room they use to be jast the
"right size." Coucfies, four fee!lQhg are
upholstered in ' leather or plushy and
wicker "soas In this sltortlengih are sold
In the larger shops' Jr. vome c&sm, thpse.
have a deep box .underneath' in'w'hlcla U
lay little-coats, and drssfcee.'-. . - - ,
BUSH