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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 11, 1904)
' J -pl f ? . -s i 1 "TL; X. The Automobile Is Responsible for Improved StylesThe This Seasons Ha in coat Is a I rung ot Beauty rd Dress is 0 . . .. I ' 1 i : 5 : 8 1 THE automobile has had much to do with the evolution of the raincoat. Presenting once a shapeless cut and Eurface of indifferent black, this old pro tective garment has -within recent sea sons taken on -surprising- beauty. All the good cuts have now the enveloping loose ness of garments for motoring, but they are shapely to an astonishing degree, and certain coats of extra generous lines seem really splendid on large, line figures. The new raincoat is not, as -was the old one, of somber and unbecoming hue. The richest colors distinguish coats for day use. and for evening wear there are rub bered silk coats as delicately tinted as opera wraps. These last are especially generous in cut, with great flowing or bag eleeves made to cover the biggest under one, and pointed and circular cape col lars which hide necessarllyclumsy shoul ders. Some of the most charming of these evening coats are all white, with white velvet collars,' though there are delicate violets and gold and white striped designs which seem equally dressy. Upon aNpure white rubber coat a narrow piping of black may match the velvet collar, and Proper Care of the Little Y Dear Miss Morton. Can't you help me? My little daughter, only 10 years old. Is losing her beautiful hair. The old hair is falling much faster than the new is starting, and her pretty braid is diminishing day by j day, so that I have to braid is loosely now ! to give it the appearance of thickness, whereas formerly I drew it tight. Dan druff appears upon the scalp, and no mat ter how much I use the fine comb, I can not keep it out. Moreover, the color is changing rapidly. The golden tint is giv ing way to brown, although I shampoo the hair every week in ammonia and water to keep it light. Please give me your advice and confer an inestimable favor upon 'An Anxious Mother.' " There is no showing of partiality in se lecting the above letter. It is only one of scores almost identical, and in answer ing one anxious mother I am answering many more. Of the mothers who write to me about their little daughters, nine out of ten are bemoaning the condition of the golden locks. There is a note of pathos in many of the letters; it is easy to read between the lines and to see the fat yellow curl of the baby days that is folded away In a drawer and know that as the brown steals in day by day the guardian of that curl sees her baby vanishing from her sight No matter how dear the grown-up daugh ter may be, it hurts to lose the yellow headed toddler. Right .here I might as well be cruel and get it over and done with. On this point of the changing color I have no help to offer. Pretty as the golden curls were, you have no right to cling to them if Na ture Intends otherwise. His of the half" can and should be treated, but the dark ening that years bring is natural, and should not be arrested. The other day I was admiring the beautiful color of an 11-year-old girl's hair. It glinted like all the tresses that the poets have immor talized. "How beautiful it is. Are you afraid that it will change with time?" I asked her mother in all innocence! A little later I chanced to part the golden locks, and there in the parting was revealed a quarter Inch of dark brown hair, the undying growth at the roots. Peroxide of hydrogen had been applied to that baby! I had been entirely unsuspecting, because I could not believe that anyone would use artificial means to improve upon the beauty that youth and nature had given td a little child. Peroxide of hydrogen docs not Injure the hair, but, its use is an abuse of good taste. When Nature means one to have blond locks, she gives the eyes and lashes and skin that harmonize with them. With every -year that child's com plexion will grow away from her hair until finally the falsity is apparent. Just at present her hair Is a shade that might be natural, considering her years." But she is condemned to a peroxide slavery, tinting every few weeks, or she must go thcQuch iho miserable and humiliating this is thought to be a smartcombina tion. Another evening noveltHs In pale blue and white, with a blue velvet collar and huge pearl buttons. , Importers declare that such ooats for the majority of the models are of French and English manufacture may envelop the most fragile evening toilette without injury- They are copied by domestic makers, and are much cheaper in the home shape than when Imported. The buttons of all these coats are enor mous. On the automobile rubbers, which are In a class by themselves, they appear in white and smoked pearl against rich reds, blues and browns, and are as big as butter plates. Save for the buttons, such coats are untrimmcd, for they depend en tirely upon a swagger cut for effect. They are double-breasted, and have high storm collars, which, when turned up, hold the face in a pointed calvjc becoming to a pretty countenance. Round, gathered or vlsored caps in the same material go with many of these au tomobile coats, or else there la an at tached hood to lift over the hat. But the interest of most women centers In the waterproof for everyday use. With the rains pf Autumn coming on, a gar process of letting the hair grow out in Its natural color, wearing two shades of hair until the reformation is complete. The use of borax and ammonia is much to be condemned. The "Anxious Mother" will find the hair kept light, to be sure, by her persistent use -of the drug, but the young hair will become brittle and dead in appearance. The light .color will have no hint of gold. How much better to keep It in a healthy condition and let It take on the brown it Is tending to a brown that may prove, under encourage ment of the brush and massage and sun ning, to contain all sorts of wonderful bronze lights, dark to be sure, but far more beautiful than the other If it har monizes better with the child's coloring. Remember that artists find the only beau ty In harmony. Nothing is beautiful or ugly' of itself. It is only one or the. other as it finds itself in appropriate surround ings. I feel genuinely sorry for the little girl's loss of hair, and it surely can be remedied. You can save that pretty head of hair by massage, the basis of all hair treatment Or why not teach her to do the work herself? This is the principle of scalp massage. The scalp; which produces the growth of hair, Is naturally loosely attached to the skull or bony frame underneath It. This Is true when it is a healthy condition, but in an unhealthy condition it becomes at tached to the skull and needs loosening. Place the tips of the fingers (not the nails) upon the jscalp, holding them in one spot, and move the scalp in a cir cling manner beneath them. Place the tip of the thumb opposite them upon the scalp and hold it still, letting it act as a sort of brace for the fingers while they work. Move the fingers from spot to spot until all the scalp has been loos ened. Day by day you will find the skin growing looser upon the skull. Move the fingers always In a circling way and toward the crown of the head, never let ting them move upon the scalp, but mak ing the scalp move under them. ' Besides loosening the scalp, you have another object: namely, that of stim ulating the flow of the bloqd to the roots of the hair. This is necessary in order that all the little hairs starting to grow may be properly nourished. When you once acquire the knack of massage you may be able to teach it to the daughter and make it fun, to her to massage her own scalp- every night. Un less she can do it correctly, however, bet ter impose the task upon yourself. If she is careless or is annoyed by the task, she may handle the hair roughly and break It Tell her about the blood that is to feed all the hungry little hairs, and see how interested she will be. In every case it is better to give mas sage a month's trial at the least before a tonic is added. Nature responds so readily to a slight encouragement in the case of a child that It is better to let It do her work if It will. If at thevend of a month or two, there Is the least Improvement to be noted, keep on with this treatment alone. If. $&& iandruf Is t THE SUNDAY ORE GONIAL PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 11, 190.. ment which will Insure the neatness of the gown beneath Is a necessity, for rain is no longer a bar to the promenade, to shopping, to the theater. Possibly this is because- raincoats have become so de lightful. Beginning with materials, it seems to be the etiquette of the pretentious places never to call rainproof textures "crav enette." Materials are either rubber or shower-proof silk or shower-proof cloth. If you ask for a rubber coat for foot wear, you will be stared at as If you had Just proposed to break one of the com mandments. Rubber raincoats, you are told, are only worn en volture (In vehi cles), and -to wear one out walking would be a serious indiscretion. In other words, although a superb driving garment, the rubber coat is considered "fast" on foot. The shower-proof cloths are thought to provide the neatest and most practical wear, and the Iron grays long seen are much approved. But the new weaves dif fer entirely from the old ones. Instead of the former plain surfaces, there are hair str'pes, little checks and fancy plaids. The buttons of such coats, and of other trim, neat models, are made of the same material and are very small. Except In a modest trio upon the, sleeve, perhaps, Girl's Hair no better and no new growth of hairs to be seen when looking, closely' into the parts, then some simple medicine may be used. Vaseline is excellent rubbed into the scalp twice ' a week, although It is disagreeable. The following tonic may be used: SO grammes bay rum, 0 grammes castor oil, 10 grammes tincture can tharldes. It should be applied to the roots of thp hair before the massage. Note that by her own confession the "Anxious Mother" "drew the braid tight" Fortunately, she is now obliged to braid the child's hair loosely. The more liberty hair is allowed the better for It A tight braid,, day or night, checks the growth. If a child's hair tangles badly It may not be best to leave it entirely uncon fined, for the subsequent combing may cause much breaking; but a loose braid Is possible. This is the best way to send Miss Goldenlocks to bed: braid the hair loosely in one, or better, two braids, so that there may be as much separation ' and consequently ventilation of the hair as possible. There will be no snarls) in the morning. Tie ttie braids a short dis tance above the ends, and tie them loose ly. Never turn up the ends and tie them bent It Is likely that the use of the fine comb has been disastrous to the little girl by causing Irritation of the scalp. An expert can use a fine comb without damage, handling It with a sidewise mo tion and lifting the dandruff gently with out scraping the skin. But a stiff brush Is better for general use. Go over the entire, scalp once a week, removing every bit of dandruff and dust, first loosening them from the scalp, then brushing them out from the length of hair. Once in four weeks you may shampoo after this brushing. First make a cas tlle soap suds with warm water, fill a bowl with this, and shampoo thoroughly with It, rubbing the lather well Into the scalp and washing out the long hair as if it were a handkerchief. Then rinse in several waters, each cooler than thej previ ous, until you 'find that the water is per fectly clear. Now put the strained juice of a lemon into a bowl of cool water and rinse in that. There will likely be a cloudiness In the water, for the lemon removes grime that the soapsuds did not affect Wring the hair thoroughly with your hands, then with a towel, and after this do not touch it again with a towel. Wrap the little lady to keep her from taking cold, and" put her Into the sun and wind to dry', if the day be fine. Other wise, let her He near a heater, and assist In the drying process by rubbing the hair with your hands. Sunning the hair Is important If the child is Inclined to burn or freckle, cut out the crown from one- of her last year's hats, pull her hair up-through the brim and put her out in the sun at every op portunity. One word In response to many anxious inquiries. Our American system'of public schools, with all its advantages from the standpoint of true democratic training, has its drawbacks. Some of the little glayzaates. of your, dainty, daughter may they are often not seen at all, for a num ber of the single-breasted coats close with fly fronts. A new" and dashing model on this order Is the usual loose sacque, cut with the yoke "and upper part of sleeves in one. To the -long shoulder caps thus formed big puffs are stitched, the lapped seam which attaches them proving quite orna mental around the arm. The design has a slot seam at the back, fitting it slight ly into the figure. The coat is silk-lined to the waist, and some of the sleeves are provided with silk under ones, whose draw strings hold them close about the wrist. The price of such, a coat is $40. which does not seem dear when you find out that A. number of the pal& evening ones go up as high as $75. A similar price is asked for the elegant automobile rubber coats, but smart models can be had for $40. The .usual fine raincoat Is made to order, the loose styles needing the most careful cutting and fitting to produce the right effect. Ready-made coats adjusted in style fit much more readily, and may be bought for half the price of those made to order, but unless the model is a good one the result is not usually so pleasing. A group of store models, carefully se come from homes where cleanliness is un known, and you may pay the penalty de spite every precaution. It Is no uncom mon thing, let me say for the comfort of every fastidious mamma who thinks she Is the only one ever so disgraced, for the dearest of little girls to be afflicted with parasites in the hair. The shampoo, in this case, should be made of tar soap, and for the first drastic treatment the following Is efficacious and harmless: One hundred grammes glycerine, five grammes bichloride mercury In solution. Rub It Into the scalp and ""wash It out In half an hour. KATHERINE MORTON. THE HAIR CAN BE SUNNED WITHOUT RISK OF FRECKLES. ,. J lected, display prices, cuts and textures suited to the average means and wearer. The rain coat, which may be both dressy and simple, is always desirable. It is admirable In checked shower-proof silk In blue and black. The model is very loose, the long skirt hanging almost in folds about the figure. The big sleeves are voluminous and flowing in cut, and the neck is furnished with a mannish lit tle collar and revers. Made In the same way and offered at the same price $35 are coats of shower-proof silks In rich Scotch plaids, black And white, and brown and white. Plaid and striped wools compose others, In forms highly suggestive of the old ul sters, for these textures are not rubbered at the back, as are the silks. For this reason the simple wool materials are pre ferred by many as being cooler than the rubber-treated wools and silks, and there is no denying that such models hang bet ter than do the others. There is a crum pled and creased look about the silk gar ments, as if they were occasionally used for night gowns, but this dqs not de tract greatly from their elegant appear ance. The plain wools in ulster-like cuts are Lingerie Hints for the Home Sewer IF the term "tailored," as applied to effects in lingerie, did not seem in congruous, it might be said that the Autumn fashions in this all-important part of the feminine wardrobe are bor dering on tailored lines. Many of the sets are without a yard of lace or ln- 35 ' : of less aristocratic pretensions, but they are trim, stylish and more reasonable In price. Three coats, respectively in plaid, checked and diagonal wools, are offered at the popular price of $22 each. A shoul der cape Is shown by two dealers, that of one oddly Including the front In the cut of this detail. The moderate sized sleeves of both are In coat shape, with square turn-back cuffs. The high storm collars are made to look as well down as up. In a number of these less expensive coats, both loose and half fitting, a Nor folk belting of the back is a feature, and big pockets are set in the sides. The rainy-day dress is an innovation in storm garments. It Is a short-skirted, Norfolk-coated costume, charmingly be coming to youthful figures. A tailor of reputation declares that several smart women have ordered such dresses for walking, in the usual shower-proof tex tures. A deliciously dainty suit is of gray and black stripe, with only heavy stitching for ornament, and- a breast and hip patch pocket. Other little rainy-day gowns devised on somewhat similar lines and shown by this sertion, fine hemstitching and hand em broidery being the only trimming. Linen mesh promises to be a favorite style ofunderwear for Winter weath er. Hitherto only men's garments have been made up of this fabric, but the present season shows it in separate garments and in union suits for women and children. It is a porous fabric which fits very closely to the body, and is said to be the most healthful of all meshes for wearing no' to the skin. It enables the perspiration to leave the body freely, and at the same time it fits snugly and retains the heat The adoption of the union suit in this mesh, with short .knickers and with a low neck and no sleeves, is quite general. Convent-made lingerie Is gaining a wide popularity among women whose purses will permit of their buying it There Is nothing in lingerie which can compare with it in texture, design and handiwork. Sets of four pieces, knick ers, chemise, gown and petticoat are embroidered heavily in white linen, carrying out the daintiest of flower patterns In sprays and vines. The edges are traced In an Irregular design and finely buttonholed, while a beading effect Is carried out in the same stitch, each of the perforations being a tiny buttonhole. It resembles the broderio anglalse work, which Is also seen on much of the flne linen lingeries, espe cially In gowns and petticoats. The nev chemise models are more scant than In former seasons and fit with 'sufficient flare at the bottom, to serve the purpose of a short skirt. French flannel skirts, knee-length, are exquisite in their design. The finest of handwork above the hem. In white silk, takes the place of ruffles. White is the favorite color, but the French flannels come also in dainty tones of pink an dblue and lavender. The surplice corset cover is the most satisfactory undergarment for wear with shirtwaists. It Is made of nain sook or linen, and can be drawn as closely as desired across the front and buttoned in the back at the waist line. It serves admirably as a lining to a loose blouse and Is sufficiently warm for cold weather. A combination corset cover and short skirt is an Innovation In lingerie. It obviates the difficulty of tape ends and knots. Some women always prefer lace trlmmed lingerie, and they can suit even their most fastidious tastes in this line. The introduction of plain em broidered effects has not detracted from the elaborateness of lacy effects. Umbrella knickers are not among the newest models; but the short garment, Jus reaching to the knee and spilt on the outer sides for about six inches, with lace running in a V-shape to the point, are much in evidence. Ribbon about an inch wide is traced through "embroidery beading and ends In a bow on both sides. Dresden ribbons arc being employed tailor might be worn at" any Autumn out ing, for they have a golf or mountain look. Soft alpine hats, plainly banded or swathed with veils or leather carfs, were shown to go with them. Sailor hats of the same shower cloth as the dress, with patent leather trimmings, were also seen, as well as the ordinary black patent leather sailors worn by many horse women. But as to the rainy-day hat, anything fairly simple and compact may be worn. The main thing necessary is security against the never-weary winds. Envelop ing veils come in smartly for this pur posechiffon veils long enough to bundle the head and hat and throat. In intro ducing these veils the automobile- has done woman a great service. They are extremely becoming and are worn any and everywhere. Several of the good tailors announce their intention of making up practical walking costumes from shower-prool wools. A model at one place showed the round .pleated skirt and long, loose coat with belted back Introduced In the Sum mer. This design, which is becoming very popular. Is shown in regulation walking suits In all manner of stout materials."" MARY DEAN. for trimming much of the Fronoh un derwear, especially in the showy lace sets. There is a decided tendency to wards white wash ribbon for lingerie of the simplest sort A Swiss lisle undervest, a closely woven material that will serve well In cold weather, is found in the importa tions together with silk vests in all colors, hand-embroidered in Parisian effects. FOR NOISELESS TYPEWRITER Manufacturers Hope to Reduce tht Present Racket by Three-Quarters. The noiseless typewriter is some thing the experts are now working on and they hope to evolve machines thai will do the work with a quarter of thi noise. "In this strenuous age," said a man ufacturer of typewriters, "everything that makes noise Is tabooed In officej and other places wherex men and wo men use their brains more than theii bodies. Every little sound causes irri tation. "It has been found that there li much complaint against the typewrit ing machine. Its clicking, the din o; the busy keys, disturbs the heads o: firms, even though they shut the doors to their private offices tight, and some times even stuff cotton In the keyholes Then, too, it interferes with conver sation by telephone. "In the stress of business this llttli annoyance oaused by the typewritei adds just one more element to Increast the fatigue incident to the day's work "We are experimenting with a ma chine that we think will fill the neet for a noiseless typewriter. It is al most encased in rubber, and the sound is muffled by several ingenious de vices. "We now and then make machine: to order for nervous customers, wh have worked on ideas of their own foi getting rid of tho typewriter din. Wi have made a few machines encased ir glass, with levers protruding under the glass to move the carriage, adjus the paper, etc." Whip of Progress. The Tatler. Still the world is spinning-, humming. As the whip of progress cracks on; t'zBt the Frenchman Is becoming Anglo-Saxon. Soon the Jap will crow less yellow. And his sturdy legs be lanky. Till he seems the very fellow Of the Yankee. Then our slender Hindu brother Will display an Engllah torso; ' We ahall all be like each other, Only, more soK