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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 11, 1904)
The 'Ready-to-Wear Hats for 1 ; : " f " A SOFT ASD BECOMING TDKBAK. r1 j i s ' : L : 1 flfjifv;; u3f SFlr fclSMi THE wise -woman who can buy but one "dressy" hat does not Invest at this season of the year. It Is much safer to wait a few weeks and ascertain "which of the styles are to become cheap and common. There are- always certain features of the millinery modes which are easily Imitated in the cheapest of ma terials, and which for this reason are crossed off the list by the woman who likes to consider herself well dressed. The hat of tho hour for the economically-inclined woman is a ready-to-wear hat, which in dark shades is Just the thing for wear with the last of her Sum mer tailored gowns and the first of her 2TalI ready-to-wear suits. In lighter col ors these hats look very well with even more dressy frocks. Opinion Is divided as to the price which 'one is justified in paying for tho first ready-to-wear hat. Some women buy the very best quality of tailored hats and 'make them last for general wear during the entire Winter. These women have fin addition what they call their rainy day hat, built on alpine or fedora lines, and trimmed with a band of leather or plain silk, laid in folds. This hat matches In- general tone the rainy-day suit or coat and the better tailored hat is kept for SOeiAL FUND m THE FAM1LLJ eiKCLE New Way of Entertaining Friends on a Small Income YOU see, by the time John has put a dollar in the savings bank and a half-dollar in the social fund, bis salary Is about gone," said Aunt Bess. "The social fund! What's that?" in quired an eager voice on her right. Aunt Bess Merrill had come up from Chicago to visit her country nieces and nephews, and she was giving them all the news about their city cousins; two boys and three girls, who were self-supporting, or nearly so. One of tbe girls was a teacher In the public schools, another had a clerkship and a third was a stenogra pher. The boys were employed In big wholesale establishments. "Haven't you heard about our social fund? It has been a family institution for " four years, and we couldn't keep house without it. Each of the children contrib utes to It in proportion to his or her sal ary, and I add a weekly amount from my housekeeping allowance. Then, when we entertain, we draw on this fund for the refreshments, or the added expense, if it is a dinner, and you would not believe until you have tried the plan how it re duces friction In the household. "Here in the country, where people drop In unexpectedly and in f informal fashion, entertaining is not such a bug bear as it becomes in the city where small flats and high prices for food pro sent many difficulties. And where fam ilies work on salaries they must figure carefully, for once your expenses get be yond the salary limit there is no catch tag up. "In many families of small incomes the question of entertaining is always under discussion, and pretty sharp discussions, too. If there is a big dinner one night for guests all the rest of the week the family must live on scraps or the cheap est of fare. When I was a young girl 2 lived with an aunt who was very kind to me dressed me beautifully, sent me to hear good music and fine lectures, and trave me lovely birthday presents, but whenever I wanted to bring home a young friend for a meal there was trouble. "The memory of those wrangles over entertaining was so strong that as soon as I was married I started a little social fund of my own. and as fast as tho boys and girls began to earn salaries I had them contribute. This was not entirely because your Uncle John and I felt that they ought to help, but because It gave them all a sense of responsibility and nlaced them in the position of actual hosts and hostesses. "Each of the three older children con wear with a tailored street suit which is not sacrificed to shopping tours and simi lar excursions on rainy days. Young girls soon tire of the first felt hat. however. They are apt to select a pure white felt, a pale gray or a cham pagne color, and these soli quickly. The light hat is unquestionably the Ideal one for first days, but nothing Is uglier later In the season than a white hat which shows marks of dust and rain. It Is a bad Investment for a girl whb knows she must make her Fall hat play a part. In the mid-Winter wardrobe. On the other hand, if she can afford two tailored hats it will pay her to buy both of them now, and religiously lay away the darker one for Winter days. .The time for the selection of ready-to-wear hats is absolutely complete, and the stock of the factories and wholesale mil linery stores is now spread upon retail counters. If a girl buys her white turban now and leaves her darker hat for selection until November, she will find a poor as sortment to choose from. To be sure, prices will be cut by that time on all ready-to-wear hats, but when she looks them over her mind will turn back to tho more graceful shapes, the fresher colors, the more careful handwork, which she saw In the September offerings. For the young woman two shapes sold in ready-to-wear hats are the sailor and tributes a dollar a week to the fund, and 1 so do I, while the two younger each give half a dollar. On $5 a week we can do considerable entertaining in the course of year. Last year we had a little over when Summer came and the children di vided it between them for spending money on their vacations. "Twice a year we give what we call parties; that Is, we have 'a number of young people In for dancing and games, and serve formal refreshments. The three older children entertain their friends at one party and the two younger at the second, but all five arc present at each parts. This brings about a community of social interests that Is good to see in the family. Particularly in big cities boys and girls mako friends outside the family. Sisters and brothers do not min gle in the same set, and even mothers do not always know the young people with whom their children mingle in social life away from home. At these large parties the girls come In pretty low-necked frocks'and the young men In their evening clothes. Both of my boys had evening clothes as soon as they began to go out, for every man who ex pects to, succeed In life should know how to dress, wen and to carry good clothes with ease. "We average a dinner a week, but these are simple affairs, with only a slight elaboration of our regular dinner menu, and the children take turns in issuing the invitations. "As the girls are working and Uko to keep early hours, we do not give many late evening affairs, but one Sunday night in each month we are 'at home.' That means that any of our friends, young or old, will and us home if they choose to drop in for a chat. We have simple re freshments, hot chocolate and small cakes, or tiny sandwiches and tea in cold weather, and punch and wafers when the weather turns warmer. The girls take turns pouring and the boys are expected to make themselves agreeable to guests, whether young or old. "It must be very" Jolly," sighed one of the country cousins. Aunt Bess nodded her head. She was riding her hobby now in earnest. "Half the world of mothers does not know the importance of giving children a social start- They think that because the family Income is hot large, or the home palatial, the task is hopeless. 'So ciety' is only for the rich, they argue. They sit up nlglits to make fancy frocks for the giris, tney scrimp ana save to 'THE SUNDAY 03JEG0NIAN, PORTLAND, SBPXEMBEB 11, 190 the modified, tailored dlrectoire hat. For the older woman and In truth, many young women are adopting It the turban has no rival. It comes in so many shipes and in such a variety of materials and trimmings that the purso and the taste of every woman may be suited. The sailors are smaller than in Summer. A favorite model is the Breton, slightly wider from side to side than from back to front, yet not quite so pronounced as it was during the Summer. The brim rolls decidedly and is almost Invariably edged on the under side with velvet In a contrasting shade or with novelty braid. An effective model on . the Breton line shows a white felt with a rather large flat crown, encircled simply with felt and white surah silk. The brim Is edged with a novelty braid In which golden brown velvet Is the predominating note. Inter laced with white silk cord and a note of gold, this Is an -Ideal that for wear with a golden brown dress In either plain goods or material shot with white. , The directoire hat shows a high crown, a brim flat on the right side, flaring on the left and bent down in tho back to meet the soft coll or "bun" in which the up-to-date girl knots her hair at the nape of the neck. The true dlrectoire hat is trimmed very high In the front with plumes or flowers, but the tailored dlrec pay for piano lessons, they sacrifice them selves to give the children a week at some Summer resort, but they go right up In the air if a child asks to have a friend over night, or a few girls to lunch. " 'Oh, can't you take them to a matinee instead? is the wall, and so the children find their social life at the .theater or" on the street corner or in the public parks. And, by and by, the pretty daughter may marry a well-to-do man and find that she- knows nothing of her social duties as his wife, or the boys may become suc cessful business men and find themselves face to face with the problem of taking a course in social training' when they reach middle age. we motners wouldn't neglect senaing the children to Sunday school or to the dentist, but wo let them work out their own social salvation, and it Is not fair to the child. A few less frills on the best frock, a few less theater tickets and a little more entertaining around the fam ily table will balance matters better. "There is nothing more pathetic than the child who has grown up without Shy social training and who works her way up to a position where she is forced to mingle with people who have had such advantages. X buy my daughters' calling cards and stationery just as I watch for bargains in clothes. I see to it that ev ery member of the family circle Is prompt to acknowledge favors and invitations and to make dinner and party calls. I want my boys to know how to escort a lady to the dinner table as well as to carve the fowl served upon it. "I hope that every one of tho children will some day have a happy home of his or her own and know how to preside over It. Some of my dearest, enemies call me a maneuvering mamma, and I'm proud of the title. I believe In the social as well as the educational and financial cam paign," , "That" s very well for your family. Aunt Bess," said big, square-shouldered Jim, who had Just finished his course at the district school, and had been given a fourth Interest In his father's fine farm, "But Allie Is the only one of us who is earning money" the oldest sister was teaching school In the next township "and what would I do with a swallow tailed coat?" 'That's true, but you have a very neat Sunday suit, and did you ever think what a pretty compliment It would be to Allle's friends who visit her occasionally if you put on that suit each evening for tea? Tm sure they would all go away and say wha a nice brother Alice Merrill has. "And as for a fund, why, you have Just the Autumn Days THE BRETON SAILOR. i ; as good things to put in as money. Our girls have no time to work around home, but here is Bess" patting her namesake on the shoulder "no one can make such fudge as she, and Mary's cakes melt In my mouth. Sammy's flowers grow and bloom like weeds Indoors and out, yet no one thinks to put them on the table. Did you ever think of entertaining your supper guests on the porch? What an improvement' it would be over your kitch en, clean as mother keeps It. Try it some time. Let each one give the tired mother a lift and see what a sensation your new style of entertaining will make among your friends. Watch the Sunday papers and home magazinesfor new games and ways of serving refreshments. Form your selves into a social fund, and see how much pleasure you will take In it." A Reckoning. Theodore Boberts in the Independent. (There will come a. reckoning with England. . . . We recognize hsr as .our old enemy, who has stood In the path of Buesian development. Prince Hespere Oukahtomsky.) Te who would reckon with England Ye who would sweep the seas Of the flag- that Rodney nailed aloft And Nelson flung to the breeze Count well your ships, and your men. Count well your horse, and your guns, For they who reckon with England Must, reckon with England's sons. Te'who would challenge England Te who would break the might Of the little isle in the foggy sea And the lion-heart in the fight Count "well your horse, and your swords, v Weigh well your valor and guns. For they who ride against England Must saber her million eons. Te who would roll to warfare Tour hordes of peasants and slaves, To crush 'the pride of an empire And sink her fame in the waves Test well your blood and your metal, Count well your troops and your guns, For they who battle with England Must war with a mother's sons. Bathsheba, Barbados, B. W. I. Grief. , Elizabeth Barrett Browning. I tell you, hopeless grief Is passionless That only men incredulous of despair, Half-taught in anguish, through the mid night air. Beat upward to God's throne In loud access Of shrieking and reproach. Full desertness In souls, as countries, lleth silent, bare. Under tho blanching, vertical eye-glare Of the absolute heavens. Deep-hearted man, express Grief for thy dead in silence like to death; Most like a monumental statue set In everlasting watch and moveless woe. Till Itself crumble to 'the dust beneath. Touch it: the marble eyelids are not wet If It could weep, it could arise and go. MUT-RITIOUS Examples THE American housewife who de- j sires to lend variety to her dally j menus will do well 'to look to other countries for certain recipes. For in- : stance, the Germans are notable cooks of peas, beans lentils and similar vegetables. The Scotch have no equals in various ways of preparing mutton. Both the Spanish and the Italians are masters of cookery in macaroni and toothsome sauces. From India come the richest of curry recipes. The Germans prepare dishes from lentils, peas and beans so rich In ni trogen and starch that they take the place of both meat and vegetables on a frugal table. Lentils resemble a small, dark, split pea, but they are round and flat, like tiny disks, not plump like peas. They should always be washed and soaked over night be fore cooking. Lentil soup Wash half a pint of lentils and soak them over night. Drain off the water and put them in tho soup pot, adding a quart oft stock and a pint of water, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, half a teaspoonful of salf and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cook gently for two hours, by which time the lentils should be tender. Press the mixture through a soup sieve, and re turn to the kettle. Have ready a table spoonful of butter rubbed smooth in a tablespoonful of flour, and a small onion, gratd finely. Add these to the stock, bring to a boil, stirring all the while, and serve with croutons. If there Is no stock on hand, plain water may be used, but it glve3 less satisfy ing results. Split pea soup may bo made by the same 'recipe, substituting half a pint of split peas for the lentils. A .nourishing vegetable course, which will also take the place of meat an important Item in this day of soaring prices for flesh foods is this preparation of split peas.: Half a pint of dried peas soaked over night are drained and covered with a quart of cold water, to which is added a tiny pinch of baking soda. Cook gently three or-four hours. Then drain and add to the peas six small onions grated or chopped very fine, a teaspoonful of salt and half as much pepper. Add two cupfuls of boiling water and. simmer half an hour longer Alpine and Fedora Shapes in Show Simple Leather-Band toire does away with all high, trimming A stylish model on this line is a shaggy brown felt flecked with very light tan. The brim is. faced with fancy silk to match the light shade in the hat, and this is brought over the edge of the brim so that it forms a sort of puffing all round. Around the crown is velvet of the darker shade; interlaced bands of velvet run down from the crown on the right side to the band of the brim at the back, with a long golden arrow twisted through. This gives a pretty finish to the back of the hat where It meets the hair. Under the flaring brim on the left side Is fastened a flat braid In a dark shade of brown. There Is absolutely nothing on this hat which the Fall winds can tear or rumple. It is sufficiently simple for wear with a walking suit, while the light colored silk facing makes It possible as the accompaniment of a more dressy cos tume. Later In the season the light silk facing may be removed and the darker shade of broWn substituted, with perhaps a tiny line of fur on the top of the brim. The beauty of the turban is the way it fits to the hair. At first glance the well-fUtlns- turban and the carefullv trroomed and waved hair seem to possess a subtle unity. Tne turoan wnicn aoes not nt mo head well, which leaves a gaping space between its brim and the hair, causes harsh lines and makes the wearer look old. The turban demands a liberal show ing of hair around tho face, and it Is a great mistake for one who dresses her hair tightly and severely, drawing It away from the forehead, to don a turban. There are two distinct models in turbans one that seems eminently fitted to the woman who1 dresses her hair high, and the other for the one who wears it at the nape of her neck. Tho latter is longer from front to back and droops a trifle more. The favorlto combination in tur bans seems to be felt, with plain or fancy velvets; for the more dressy turbans all velvet is used, with toque feathers and metallic ornaments. A few bird of para dise aigrettes are seen on turbans; also roses In the beautiful but quaint shades which are to be used next Winter. The latter are shown In shades of orange, red or green, such as never a rose bloomed In. The handsomest flowers have crum pled petals of silk showing half a dozen shades in a single rose. These are much used with the velvet turbans. A striking example of the velvet turban shows a champagne-colored fabric laid In FOODS AT SMALL COST Set hy Foreign Housewives "Worth Following;. under a tight cover; then add to this mixture half a cupful of well washed rice, cover tightly and cook half an hour longer. Have ready two tablespbonfuls of butter and two of flour, two cupfuls of strained tomatoes and a dash of salt. Cook this as a sauce. Dish the peas and rice in" the center of a large, deep platter and pour tho tomato sauce around them, or serve in a vegetable dish and pass the sauce separately. Black bean soup Is served regularly at the German restaurants in this coun try, and is Immensely popular with business men who eat lunch downtown. A reliable recipe is this: Wash two cupfuls of black beans and soak over night In cold water. Next morning drain and drop thom into boil ing water, enough to cover them. Sim mer gently about two hours, or until the beans aro soft; add one quart of good stock, a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; press through a soup sieve and return to a clean kettle to boll up once. Have ready in a hot tureen two hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, and a small lemon, also sliced. Pour- the boiling soup over them and serve at once. The Germans also mako extremely tasteful breads, and this recipe Is worth trying,' particularly for the Sun day morning breakfast, when a sweet bread Is welcome for a change: Boll a pint of milk and with this and two-thirds of a cake of compressed yeast make a rising. When light, mix in one small cupful of sugar and two tatblespoontf of melted butter or pure lard. Work in just enough flour .so that you can handle the dough, flour tho pastry board well, roll out the dough to a thickness of not more than half an inch, and lay It Into two good sibed pans. Make dents in the dough with the finger tips, say six to each loaf of bread. Drop a bit of butter into each dent, and sift sugar and cin namon over the whole, in the proportion of a tablespoonful of sugar to a teaspoon ful of cinnamon. Let this rise a second time, and when light, bake in a quick over 13 or 20 minutes. With meat prices high, the Scotch methods of cooking the cheap cuts of mutton aro worth considering. A good and nutritious dinner dish is thi3 stew: Select two necks of mutton whose flesh is of a good red color. Wipe clean with a damp cloth and cut Into neat pieces. Into a deep, thick stewing pan drop Felt The Tailored Hats Trimmings. heavy folds and brought to a decided point In front. On either side of the tur ban, almost covering the brim and meet ing in a point at the back over the hair, are two coque breasts in self tone; on the right side a bold color effect Is ob tained by the use of copper ornaments, which blend oddly but harmoniously with the paler shades of the hat. A brown velvet hat with the regulation hussar cooue breasts in the changeable shades of green and brown Is equally effective and more durable. There can be no greater mistake than tho nurrhase of cheaD coaue feathers. They go down before the first wind storm and are not to be repaired. Even the small hussar plumes . which irreverent shoppers have dubbed pine trees, should be selected with care, and one that costs less than $1.25 represents a sheer waste of money, as the feathers are merely pasted on a canvas foundation and yield both to moisture and wind. KATHERINB ANDERSON. A Difference of Dreams. J. M. Whittafcer. in Dallas News. Two children by the casement sat. And dreamed the dreams o day." '" That scale so nimbly garden walls To wander, worlds away. On dreamed him of the soldier lads , That passed the door at noon Oh. rhythm ot hoofs and Jangling eteelt Who known a blither tune? His eyes pursued some grand dame's coach Upon the far highway. Or oought tbe'bright'nlng sky that marked Where some fair city lay. The other watched the day pass through Beyond the western gates. And saw the evening etar come out And beckon to her mates. He watched the poplars strew the ground "With restless shadow leaves. And heard the gentle crooa and stir ' Of pigeons in the eaves. .......to Two brothers by the window sit Long lost, such dreams as these. Come flocking back like homing birds Set free on alien seas. To one. its gifts of fame and power The world has long supplied. Ah, siren dreams! For still ho craves Long-sought content, denied. The others dreams resolve Into A triad, owect as prayer The village bell, his wife's dear voice. His child's foot on the stair. two tablespoonfuls of suet, or if a more delicate flavor Is desired, use but ter or good mixod drippings. If suet is used all the "cracklings"' must be removed when the fat melts. Add to this the pieces of mutton and shake the pan over the Are until the mutton is browned, but not burned- Lift it out carefully, and to tho drippings In the pan add two tablespoonfuls of flour or enough to take up all tho grease. When this is thick, add one quart of strained tomatoes, freshly stewed or canned, and stir until they reach the boiling point. Then add the pieces of meat, one bay leaf, a small onion bou quet, salt and pepper. Cover and sim mer gently from an hour and a half to two hours, according to the size of tho mutton pieces. Serve in a deep platter with a boarder of toast trian gles or of rice. The famous Scotch haggis is another economical dish which is evolved from a sheep's heart, tongue and liver. The meat Is carefully washed, and with one pound of bacon is chopped very fine, or If tho housewife boasts of a sausage grinder she should put the meat through this. Mix In a deep bowl with a pint of bread crumbs, two sardines, the grated rind of one lemon, a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Two eggs aro beaten light with the Juice of the lemon and mixed thoroughly with the ma terials already In the bowl. The haggis is then packed In a mold and boiled steadily for two hours. The true haggis is boiled in the sheep's pouch, but mod ern cooks prefer the regulation mold, which turns out more neatly on a platter. A good brown sauce and tart Jelly may be passed with this dish. Since Motqer'a Gone. Alva X. Turner, in Washington Post. Since mother's gone I miss the smile And gentle voice that used to cheer My boyish heart, day after day. And put to flight each care and fear Which chanced to be along my way. No more about the humble home I sec her ply her dally care. Or hear her sing eoma sacred song. Or plead with God in fervent pray'r For right to triumph over wrong. I love to hear some sacred eons Or hallowed hymn she used to sing. Or pray the pray'r she used to pray That I to him may firmly cling Who was her comfort day by day. The mem'ry ot her holy life Remains to cheer me on my way. Strengthens my soul as I press on Amid life's toll, from day to day. To that rweet place where mother bobaj