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About Eugene register-guard. (Eugene, Or.) 1930-1983 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 21, 1937)
zarro Certainly Did A dl Job lima w itn li rital City Of Peru Is One Of Most Uopolitan Centers Of The World j-oodley Woolcott Up to romantic, glamor I history. Lima, City of ultra-cosmopoli- r:. . Peru, li bi me t peat sentinel hills be PlfL Eimac River Kftdfc Ocean six miles ISa founded by Plzarro lu H nnmpd in hay w . .. . of the L it rs allurinR as the Lace brought adventures I .. wni-itv in the world Interesting, more thrilling. Lvt Peru's capuai L u,e most cosmonoiuaii tarth. This suburb Is a this corner ui ....... Mnrrrn' thin Inaiiaeedand manned by (Here are poncho-wearing Peruvian priests. French American engineers, Eng- fcnnan, and Italian mei- a.iiHaii school teacners. L-fsentatives of practically ootrv in the worm, am Ler number of the people us on these sunlit uma art women and girls with ud pretty faces, draped k iwiioj, or black lace h the afternoon the wealthy . ladies drive through the and then the latest fash jilk and feathers are on the 160,000 inhabitants of i percent are Spanish de- l:i percent half-breeds; 17 t Indians; 12 percent tor- i (Europeans and Amert- S percent Negro; and 5 Chinese. Cosmopolitan! krard may be applied to , but another is needed, fro expressive, to describe This shop belongs to a at named Oechsle; the next tears on its signboard the "Jose Ferrair;" another i we are before the win- li sweet shop belonging to while his next-door glories in an English land his signboard refreshes k.'with the simple, straight- o Bnush word, "Tailoring." ly of the houses arc newly and painted pale blue . while overhanging bal- cwnplete their Spanish Close by them are English berican shop windows, and rer native stores, whose tag Is by a door onto the uma, rich and poor mingle tange way. The President's in looks down on a slum. test bank faces tiny, dark i stores. The better houses pacious their large, airy open on galleries running uwnor courts, bright lorn and sunshine. A Li onise has no chimneys, and ground floor, overlooking ft only a few windows, all :;h are barred. The poorer if Lima consists largely of , or alleys similar to the "lo of the Argentine. are often inr. .. f-1- funny, tijien . and sometimes narrow lays entered by doors in '1" of the main streets, and nded by cell-like rooms. Ev ador life may be seen In ;tralyard. There the dinner ftra. ma hak.. .. vauy uainea, tne ! ashed, and the Virgin ?Ped. At every step one Pon a child, and all an- dually contented for. "-"iCLTURE. as wpII . JXory, modern Mn. i 4 eitv t, ,uc Ula style of d one story, or at the lower was usually OT sun-baked brick nrt f Of ran . . -v aim LMHSIPP. KMT three of four stnri K...H - . i i ... . " VUI"- "ill DIOCRS. Knmo r.f t " k 011 tha. with . . ""y-scrapcr" teel frame. So clev " the mud house. j ::rVhat ,hey ,r ' the city. The an Important "., 7,h "Pilars to have a tvi, ., , ' i-'inier ana Ll?rch'-ture t 10 uma, since, .... oi iiinLiiiii lk years at a f rare but hev i .... rrcr,nK,lorrJ'r'ele at F their rw.r.,wi: . , . f-ooo frame, th. ,, "airwMi-j luuiiiure " Toiled, anri ik . . riafm i. ,c c"ei:i oi l .,0'i'MS''a that M PWdie ,naK'gan. riV-tcrof a re- iJwbYr-.V mquaKea. ee;for.minlmuFmo( ""PPOKa to be sus tained from earthquakes in such houses. ' Although it never rains in Lima, yet during the dry season of the Sierra, Peru's winter (June to No vember), the capital is enveloped in mist. For days and even weeks the sun Is invisible, and a vapor ous mist makes the sidewalks slippery and pasty,- and so perm eates the air that the sheets on one's bed are ' chill and damp. Bones ache and neuralgia walks the streets; the permeating mist not Infrequently forming itself in to minute drops, when It Is called tjarua. For the rest of the year Lima is bathed in brilliant trop ical sunshine, yet saved from ex cessive heat by the icy waters of the Rimac River on the east, and the close proximity of the Pacific Ocean on the west. The people of Lima cannot fail to attract the traveler. They form by far the most cultivated and tolerant community in Peru. In deed, Lima is the Mecca of the republic, and a visit In one of its favored homes imparts a certain social standing. Talent, beauty, and generosity mingle in , the homes where a foreigner Is en tertained. Handsome gentlemen of distingue appearance can con verse with equal freedom in Eng lish, French, or Spanish. The belles of the city wear the latest Paris fashions with as much grace and elegance as any of Europe's fair est. Indeed the attractions of the Limena are unique. She has not the natural ruddy grace of the country girl, but the fascination of a pale olive face, luxuriant black hair, and large luminous eyes. She is witty, vivacious, and graceful; can converse with com parative ease in several lan guages; is essentially womanly, and devoted at the same time to religion and to worldly amuse ments like Pope's inlmitabk heroine, bestowing equal care up on "puffs, powders, patches, bibles, and billet-doux." ONE is glad to turn from thr glaring sunshine of Lima': streets to the quiet sanctuarie: where kneel in somber black the beauties whose Parisian trown wl'' be the envy cf all on the Paxcr Colon a few hours later in the day. We are in the Church of Ou : Lady of Mercy, conscious only o beauty and rest. Crimson velvet hangings ornament the whole building, and before the red cur tain veiling the chancel a Virgin stands above an improvised altar The purity of her lovely figure the spotless altar, and whitr priestly robes, for a colorful candle-lit scene which is unearth ly as it appears through ascending clouds of incense: while above it all a shining cross stands out against the crimson curtains. Suddenly, a bell rings and all in the congregation drop upon their knees, while incense rises afresh, and through its misty white wreaths we see the Host elevated. Music commences from the organ loft, and the choir chants, its oft-repeated appeal; "Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray for us sinners now and in the hour of death!" AJthough the days are past when the wealth and Importance of Lima were unrivalled in South America, the tone of the capital is still noticeably aristocratic. Here is no mad rush for wealth no sacrifice of beauty and joy for commerce no restless, over-energetic, manufacturing city. De troit and Chicago are of later growth, but Lima watches their turmoil with royal assumption. Her combination pf the graces of the past with the attainments of the present is unique. The City of the Kings has fallen; only such relics as the bones of Plzarro, the house of the Viceroys, and the Inquisition building, re main to witness to Its former greatness. But Lima Is a phoenix city. It is rising from the ashes of the past young, yet refined by the experience of age; brilliant, yet beautiful because touches by the spirit of days that are no more. It was only 22 years from the time that Plzarro and Almagro entered upon their celebrated pact at Panama until the head of the last leader of that dauntless band dangled In a cage on a gibbet in the fine old Plaza de Armas in Lima. Perhaps If we wander down to the Plaza de Armas, around wmcn centered so much of the tragedy as well as so much of the romance of those epochal years, and sit there watching the throngs that occupy its hundreds of park benches much as they have for nearly four centuries, the busy metropolis can be induced to pause for a moment in the hustle and bustle of Its activity, and pro vide us, movie-fashion, a cut back that will r:rcate some of the strange and startling scenes that figured in Its founding. The capital la now a typical South American city, flat, low, extensive, bright, and pretty. It is seen at its best when the summer sunshine floods the great plaza and the long streets which inter sect at right angles. The city is clean and elegant; flowers and tropical trees abound; and its squares and paseos parks or avenues where it is fashionable to promenade are glamorously at tractive. A brilliant population, foreign stores, imposing churches, perfect streets, and an up-to-date electric car system, make it most' pleasing, indeed a Limena saying goes: "It were possible to die of hunger in Lima, but not leave It." THE capital Is said to cover 14,000,000 square yards. Half of the area is occupied by private houses, and half by public build ings, churches, public squares, bo tanical and zoological gardens, that would do credit to any country. The ecclesiastical buildings es- In the Quaint City of Lima, Peru's City of the Kings, Street Venders Display Bright-Hucd Pottery Made In Their Own Homes For the Tourists, Of Course. pecially are entitled to notice. They present some magnificent specimens of Renaissance archi tecture, and savor of the days of Rome's political greatness. Report has it that ut tho present time there are at least 6000 priests in Lima. In Lima, a new political world has lately sprung up. Noblo patri ots aro hero who wish to see every social advantage given to Peru; men who, In eloquence, ability, and appearance,, give an impres sion of power. Then thoro is Lima's com mercial world dally Increasing ln importance. Its successful mer chants come from many lands. The wealth so lavishly displayed In the City of tho Kings they amassed In this business realm. Again, tho brilliant world of fash ion has its placo in this center; here are the cholco homes of aris tocratic Peruvian families; tho country houses of English and American residents; tho magnifi cent palaces of Continental for eigners. Below their roofs society is as in the gayest capitals of the Old World. Lima has risen into the life of the age she Is Indeed a phoenix city. w IN A REAL PUZZLE CONTEST! LET'S LOOK AT THIS PUZZLE! ' This Puzzle Represents a Familiar Name. 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