zarro Certainly Did A
dl Job
lima
w itn li
rital City Of Peru Is One Of Most
Uopolitan Centers Of The World
j-oodley Woolcott
Up to romantic, glamor
I history.
Lima, City of
ultra-cosmopoli-
r:. . Peru, li bi me
t peat sentinel hills be
PlfL Eimac River
Kftdfc Ocean six miles
ISa founded by Plzarro
lu H nnmpd in
hay w . .. .
of the
L it rs allurinR as the
Lace brought adventures
I .. wni-itv in the world
Interesting, more thrilling.
Lvt Peru's capuai
L u,e most cosmonoiuaii
tarth. This suburb Is a
this corner ui
....... Mnrrrn' thin
Inaiiaeedand manned by
(Here are poncho-wearing
Peruvian priests. French
American engineers, Eng-
fcnnan, and Italian mei-
a.iiHaii school teacners.
L-fsentatives of practically
ootrv in the worm, am
Ler number of the people
us on these sunlit uma
art women and girls with
ud pretty faces, draped
k iwiioj, or black lace
h the afternoon the wealthy
. ladies drive through the
and then the latest fash
jilk and feathers are on
the 160,000 inhabitants of
i percent are Spanish de-
l:i percent half-breeds; 17
t Indians; 12 percent tor-
i (Europeans and Amert-
S percent Negro; and 5
Chinese. Cosmopolitan!
krard may be applied to
, but another is needed,
fro expressive, to describe
This shop belongs to a
at named Oechsle; the next
tears on its signboard the
"Jose Ferrair;" another
i we are before the win-
li sweet shop belonging to
while his next-door
glories in an English
land his signboard refreshes
k.'with the simple, straight-
o Bnush word, "Tailoring."
ly of the houses arc newly
and painted pale blue
. while overhanging bal-
cwnplete their Spanish
Close by them are English
berican shop windows, and
rer native stores, whose
tag Is by a door onto the
uma, rich and poor mingle
tange way. The President's
in looks down on a slum.
test bank faces tiny, dark
i stores. The better houses
pacious their large, airy
open on galleries running
uwnor courts, bright
lorn and sunshine. A Li
onise has no chimneys, and
ground floor, overlooking
ft only a few windows, all
:;h are barred. The poorer
if Lima consists largely of
, or alleys similar to the
"lo of the Argentine.
are often inr. ..
f-1- funny, tijien
. and sometimes narrow
lays entered by doors in
'1" of the main streets, and
nded by cell-like rooms. Ev
ador life may be seen In
;tralyard. There the dinner
ftra. ma hak..
.. vauy uainea, tne
! ashed, and the Virgin
?Ped. At every step one
Pon a child, and all an-
dually contented
for.
"-"iCLTURE. as wpII .
JXory, modern Mn. i
4 eitv t,
,uc Ula style of
d one story, or at
the lower was usually
OT sun-baked brick nrt
f Of ran . .
-v aim LMHSIPP. KMT
three of four stnri
K...H - . i
i ... . " VUI"-
"ill DIOCRS. Knmo r.f
t "
k 011 tha.
with . . ""y-scrapcr"
teel frame. So clev
" the mud house. j
::rVhat ,hey ,r
' the city. The
an Important
"., 7,h "Pilars to have a
tvi, ., , ' i-'inier ana
Ll?rch'-ture
t 10 uma, since,
.... oi iiinLiiiii
lk years at a
f rare but hev i ....
rrcr,nK,lorrJ'r'ele at
F their rw.r.,wi: . , .
f-ooo frame, th. ,,
"airwMi-j luuiiiure
" Toiled, anri ik . .
riafm i. ,c c"ei:i oi
l .,0'i'MS''a that
M PWdie ,naK'gan.
riV-tcrof a re-
iJwbYr-.V mquaKea.
ee;for.minlmuFmo(
""PPOKa to be sus
tained from earthquakes in such
houses.
' Although it never rains in Lima,
yet during the dry season of the
Sierra, Peru's winter (June to No
vember), the capital is enveloped
in mist. For days and even weeks
the sun Is invisible, and a vapor
ous mist makes the sidewalks
slippery and pasty,- and so perm
eates the air that the sheets on
one's bed are ' chill and damp.
Bones ache and neuralgia walks
the streets; the permeating mist
not Infrequently forming itself in
to minute drops, when It Is called
tjarua. For the rest of the year
Lima is bathed in brilliant trop
ical sunshine, yet saved from ex
cessive heat by the icy waters of
the Rimac River on the east, and
the close proximity of the Pacific
Ocean on the west.
The people of Lima cannot fail
to attract the traveler. They form
by far the most cultivated and
tolerant community in Peru. In
deed, Lima is the Mecca of the
republic, and a visit In one of its
favored homes imparts a certain
social standing. Talent, beauty,
and generosity mingle in , the
homes where a foreigner Is en
tertained. Handsome gentlemen of
distingue appearance can con
verse with equal freedom in Eng
lish, French, or Spanish. The belles
of the city wear the latest Paris
fashions with as much grace and
elegance as any of Europe's fair
est. Indeed the attractions of the
Limena are unique. She has not
the natural ruddy grace of the
country girl, but the fascination
of a pale olive face, luxuriant
black hair, and large luminous
eyes. She is witty, vivacious, and
graceful; can converse with com
parative ease in several lan
guages; is essentially womanly,
and devoted at the same time to
religion and to worldly amuse
ments like Pope's inlmitabk
heroine, bestowing equal care up
on "puffs, powders, patches, bibles,
and billet-doux."
ONE is glad to turn from thr
glaring sunshine of Lima':
streets to the quiet sanctuarie:
where kneel in somber black the
beauties whose Parisian trown wl''
be the envy cf all on the Paxcr
Colon a few hours later in the
day.
We are in the Church of Ou
: Lady of Mercy, conscious only o
beauty and rest. Crimson velvet
hangings ornament the whole
building, and before the red cur
tain veiling the chancel a Virgin
stands above an improvised altar
The purity of her lovely figure
the spotless altar, and whitr
priestly robes, for a colorful
candle-lit scene which is unearth
ly as it appears through ascending
clouds of incense: while above it
all a shining cross stands out
against the crimson curtains.
Suddenly, a bell rings and all
in the congregation drop upon
their knees, while incense rises
afresh, and through its misty
white wreaths we see the Host
elevated. Music commences from
the organ loft, and the choir
chants, its oft-repeated appeal;
"Holy Mary, Mother of God, pray
for us sinners now and in the
hour of death!"
AJthough the days are past when
the wealth and Importance of
Lima were unrivalled in South
America, the tone of the capital
is still noticeably aristocratic.
Here is no mad rush for wealth
no sacrifice of beauty and joy for
commerce no restless, over-energetic,
manufacturing city. De
troit and Chicago are of later
growth, but Lima watches their
turmoil with royal assumption.
Her combination pf the graces of
the past with the attainments of
the present is unique.
The City of the Kings has fallen;
only such relics as the bones of
Plzarro, the house of the Viceroys,
and the Inquisition building, re
main to witness to Its former
greatness. But Lima Is a phoenix
city. It is rising from the ashes of
the past young, yet refined by
the experience of age; brilliant,
yet beautiful because touches by
the spirit of days that are no
more.
It was only 22 years from the
time that Plzarro and Almagro
entered upon their celebrated pact
at Panama until the head of the
last leader of that dauntless band
dangled In a cage on a gibbet in
the fine old Plaza de Armas in
Lima.
Perhaps If we wander down to
the Plaza de Armas, around wmcn
centered so much of the tragedy
as well as so much of the romance
of those epochal years, and sit
there watching the throngs that
occupy its hundreds of park
benches much as they have for
nearly four centuries, the busy
metropolis can be induced to
pause for a moment in the hustle
and bustle of Its activity, and pro
vide us, movie-fashion, a cut back
that will r:rcate some of the
strange and startling scenes that
figured in Its founding.
The capital la now a typical
South American city, flat, low,
extensive, bright, and pretty. It is
seen at its best when the summer
sunshine floods the great plaza
and the long streets which inter
sect at right angles. The city is
clean and elegant; flowers and
tropical trees abound; and its
squares and paseos parks or
avenues where it is fashionable to
promenade are glamorously at
tractive. A brilliant population,
foreign stores, imposing churches,
perfect streets, and an up-to-date
electric car system, make it most'
pleasing, indeed a Limena saying
goes: "It were possible to die of
hunger in Lima, but not leave It."
THE capital Is said to cover
14,000,000 square yards. Half
of the area is occupied by private
houses, and half by public build
ings, churches, public squares, bo
tanical and zoological gardens,
that would do credit to any
country.
The ecclesiastical buildings es-
In the Quaint City of Lima, Peru's City of the Kings, Street Venders Display Bright-Hucd
Pottery Made In Their Own Homes For the Tourists, Of Course.
pecially are entitled to notice.
They present some magnificent
specimens of Renaissance archi
tecture, and savor of the days of
Rome's political greatness. Report
has it that ut tho present time
there are at least 6000 priests in
Lima.
In Lima, a new political world
has lately sprung up. Noblo patri
ots aro hero who wish to see every
social advantage given to Peru;
men who, In eloquence, ability,
and appearance,, give an impres
sion of power.
Then thoro is Lima's com
mercial world dally Increasing ln
importance. Its successful mer
chants come from many lands.
The wealth so lavishly displayed
In the City of tho Kings they
amassed In this business realm.
Again, tho brilliant world of fash
ion has its placo in this center;
here are the cholco homes of aris
tocratic Peruvian families; tho
country houses of English and
American residents; tho magnifi
cent palaces of Continental for
eigners. Below their roofs society
is as in the gayest capitals of the
Old World. Lima has risen into
the life of the age she Is Indeed
a phoenix city.
w
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PAGE riVE