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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 3, 1911)
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By Adelaide Byrd
thelNDUSTRlOUS NEEDLEWOMAN ' f -ivPS&l.
HOW do you like hemT For sep
arate plate dollies and tumbler
alia thtaa pretty clrolea are da
' signed. The larger alee will do
tor placing here and there on the plain
wooden top or on the luncheon clotTh.
The smaller one la also good for the'
bread and butter -plate. Foar or" Six
of each size will make 'a valuable little
set. If you have ever priced Madeira ;
work, you will find what an Invaluable
set I am offering you.
lse a good, quality of linen and soft,
merterixed cotton for working. If you
wish, trace the designs by one of the
transferring methods suggested below.
The ring of circular dots that Is on i
the Inner part of the design. is to be.
done trt eyelets. In fact, to be strictly
'SOME SEWING-ROOM HELPS
IP SOMETHING new be vour aim in
the matter of ornamentation of a
, blouse, drawn workls suggested as
a relief from embroidery, lace ands in
The coarsely woven material so much
In favor this season possesses wonderful
"drawing" qualities. When marquisette
or voile is drawn and worked In coarse
linen thread In some simple pattern, the
decorative value Is wonderfully in
creased. Squares, lines and points are
suggested. When the blouse Is worn
over a delicately colored slip to bring It
Into harmony with the skirt, the result
Is quite successful.
-. iff I -rit
AVB3 you one of the attractive and,
let me add, very fashionable
new collars of lace and net?
lUQf. hu-. a rati
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If not, then get busy and make your
self one or two or three, They are not
hard to make at home and will give
lust the right freshness and atyle to the
Madeira work It ought to e entirely, In
eyelets; but in this day of freedom and
Independence we can depart from any
embroidered track and Introduce In
dividual notesJnto our work. I ;
You wl embroider, the flowers, In aoltd
work or In eyelets, and do the stem In
Outline work and the leaves solid,? Eye
lets also can be used for the flowers in
petals and centers. Work the;, line of
eyelets in the center of each doily in
the regular eyeletstiteh. You can alter
nate an eyelet with a solid dot it you
wish, , ' ''
Indeed, the keynote of satisfactory
work is your own preference. The en
tire design in eyelet is lovely; the en
tire solid work Is good; the;. combination
gives relief to fingers and the eye. And
When sewing on buttons, put the thread
through before you, lay the button on
the material, so that the knot will be on
the right side. That Jeavea it under the
button and preventa It from being Ironed
or torn away and thus, beginning the
loosening process. Before you begin sew
ing, lay a pin over the button, so that
the thread will go over the pin. After
you have finished filling the holes, draw
out the pin and wind the thread around
several times beneath the button. This
makes a stem to sustain the pulling and
wear of the buttonhole.
When making buttonholes that show,
1M VB' x
Any one of the pictured styles can
very quickly be made If you are handy
with the needle or, better still, if you
know how to run a sewing machine.
FTrat buy a sailor-collar pattern that
flta you. Ihen cut vout of a piece
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surely you are the; one to be suited.
Some embroiderers are using color la
Madeira work, especially it the luncheon
set is to le pnrt of a ' color acheme.
Blue in; the pretty delft shade or china
blue will" make a stunning set for the
blue china. Green ,'for the cool, green "
porcelain Is charming for summer. .
Let tne suggest that the hand-worked
Madeira sets last for years. They are
i expensive If bought
Cheap, if you em
broider them. They
last for years and
launder with won
derful success. No
linen closet is com
it Is best to fact
them with a double
piece of material.
This may look a
little clumsy at first,
but is tar better
than a frayed-out
darning. - In the same way
buttons should be
sewed on with a
small extra square
of material under
neath. of thin paper another
pattern exactly like
the first, and then lay
the bought pattern
aside for future use.
The collar of net
and lace here shown
Is made by bssting a
piece of fine white
net, doubled, on to
the paper pattern.
Across the corner,
down the center of
the back and over the ' ahoulders are
'basted lengths of lace Insertion. On
the very outer edge of the pattern baste
a two-Inch ruffle of tucked net, that can
be bought all ready hemmed and tucked.
Now. over the seam that Joins the
ruffle and net and around the neck
line baste "Insertion, mlterlng the
Stitch around all edges, using a very
fine machine stitch, or a running back
stitch If It Is done by hand. Tear away
the paper backing and your collar la
ready to wear.
Another dainty model is made of rows
of Valenciennes edging and folds of filet
Make another pattern of thin paper,
cutting it with longer ends to give he
surplice effect when the collar is worn.
First baste on, the net, making four
folds to lle flat, then the edging which
forms the back of the collar, the In
sertion and the edging to finish, stitch
all securely, taking care to catch the
lace firmly together, and run a row of
stitching about four inches from each
end to hold the folds In place.
Tear off the paper pattern and an
other collar Is ready for use.
The shawl collar with fichu ends is
especially good style this season. The
one pictured here is of very fine hand
kerchief linen and lace.
' This waa not made on a paper pattern,
but was cut out from one lialng round-
ing edges and long points Iri front.
The lace and Insertion are sewed on by
hand with a fine over-and-over stitch,
first rolling the edges of the linen, as is .
Lk if- 4. I
done when maklrfg fine handkerchiefs.
Whip a pleating of edging around the
Inner row of insertion and also on the
outer edge, continuing it all the way
around the neck.'
In an afternoon any one -of these
collars could be- completed, ; . , r
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Some New Ideas in
IT IS said that the modern girl Is so
enamored with- the popular lace and
embroidered collars In use these
days that she will continue lo wear
them all through the winter season on
heavy serge and tweed surts. Tliey are
made of the finest linen and cambric
obtainable and are embroidered, tucked
or trimmed elaborately with lace.
Cuffs are made to match, and the
Jubot frill that trims one side of the
bodice Is very often Included In the set.
The shops show many (vjery lovely odd
sets; but, like everything of this nature,
these are apt to be beyond the purse of
the average woman. She need not be
discouraged, however, for the daintiest
of these sets can easily be made alj
Purchase a sailor collar pattern and',
if it does not exactly tit you, fold the
paper over at the neck line until It docs
flt pin or paste It that way and you
have a guide by which almost any
shape collar can be cut.
Next, select the material, lay the pat
tern on and cut it out. After this Is
done it can be laid out flat and trimmed
In any way you deBlre with lace or em
broidery. If you want to embroider tho
collar, stamp It with a scalloped edge
and some pretty floral dCHign all t tie
way around and work It with white
mercerized cotton. If lace is uncd as a
trimming, have two row of Insertion
placed one Inch apart on the edge and
whip an edge of narrow luce all the
White or ecru blonde having tiandu of
lace Insertion and a line la e eilKO
"makes the daintiest of collars; It can 1
used for cuffs and, of courac, for the
side Jabot. This jabot should match
the collar with which It is worn and
la made of a straight piece of mate
rial four Inches wide jat the top, gradu
ating in width to two inches ut the
lower end. It Is trimmed on the edge,
as is the collar. Lay the other edge in
fine pleats and bind it with a half-Inch
band of cambric. Pin or button it un
der 'the box pleat In the frijmt of the
Cuffs are very simply made. Meas
ure the width of your sleeve and cut
the material that long and any width
you desire. Trim In the same manner
aa the collar and finish the edge that 1
turns under the sleeve with an Inch
wide binding of cambric or tine muslin.
When such pretty things are so easily
made, no woman should be without
these dainty dress accessories.
ONE of tfle newest offerings of
the shops are beautiful design
stamped "on squares of crepe de
chine, satin and chiffon cloth, so that
they, can be cut out and made -up Into .
the popular kimono blouse.
They come directly from Paris and
are considered quite the correct thing,
when made up. to wear with tailored
'gewn during the fall and winter. -
Indeed, they are Ideally beautiful, soft
and clinging. On a square yard of
ream-colored crepe de chine la stamp
ed a lovely design of shaded iplnk roses,
-with soft, 'misty-looking- green leaves
worked in aa a background. A. two-
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inch border of delicate green goes around
the neck and edges the kimono sleeves
and down each side of the back. All
the needlewoman has to do Is to cut out
the pattern and sew it up, edging, the
neck and sleeves with a bit of iace,
perhaps. The design 1 Stamped so that
the pattern Is outlined and pan be dil
with no difficulty whatever.
Various combinations of color are to
be had and numerous designs.
Some of them are oriental In coloring
and conventional in design, while ojhers
Bhow t he most delicate tracery of flow
ers nnd foliage.
There is a wide range in sixes, so
every - woman is sure to be fitted, and
the price is . moderate. "They are tfie
simplest possible blouses-to itnake; for,
after the pattern Is cut, thifseam un
der the arm and the undersieeve senm
(which are one) are sewed up, each side
of the back hemmed neatly, the neck
and sleeves facod. hooks and eyes sewed
on and a narrow band applied to belt It
In at the waist line -pre ntol your blouse
Is ready to wear, and as elaborately
beautiful or dainty as you desire. NO
trimming Is required,' for the trimming
is stamped on the) square of material.
They are' called -art squares deservedly,
tor they are indeed artistic,
To Transfer .
HERE are suggestions for trans
ferring the pattern before- you
to any material before working.
' Perhaps the easiest way Is the "window-pane"
method. This Is successful
when the material is thin,' like linen,
batiste, etc. Pin the sheet of paper and
the material together and hold them up
against the glass of a window. With
a sharp pencil draw on the material
th" design, which can be easily seen
through the goods. If one-half of the
design only be given, unpin the paper
and turn the ot-her side to the fabric.
The strong light behind' will make it
If you have carbon paper, you should
place the sheet between your fa brio
. atid the newspaper. This latter ta on
top. With a sharp pencil go over the
outline "of the design. The Impression
will be left n fine lines and will , last
until worked. This method la success
ful on heavy material.
A Revival of Torchon
GOOD old-faahloncd handmade tor
clion luce has been revived for the
trimming of underwear. IJ la a
durable, serviceable lace that never
should have gone out of fashion, and
moat women will welcome its returna
they would the flowers In May.
Our mothers used It on all fine under
wear, and it waa only given "up whin
the masses of cnenp' laces were inUo
dueed by the manufacturers. 4
Now, however, consumers are recnjK
niilng the error of their ww apdfuur
the torchqn patterns marta of substan
tial ilnen threadV f
With thlo revival It Is expected that
some of the dainty handmade luces so
dear lp the lieart of -our feminine an
cestors will aguln be In vogue.. With
fine crochet needle and a halt of linen, '
thread the Idle hours ran be protiubjv
employed in making yards of lace after
so ne simple pattern that will "not Ut
the brain too much with the cou.ptJna of '
studies. Small handbooks, can be hil
at; the art needlework flepartmcnis of
ouo) large stores, that contain full In
structions In the making of 1,jc (nut
will not only give a dainty touch to l-
homemade undergarments, but would t
a most acceptable gift for the bnd tu
be who is busily engaged In stO'-ttiru !, r
We weleom ne revival of Ixmm $
torchon lace, ' 4