jwg JLJM 1 , '" , 1111 fi W , ' ..,4, - T"" , v By Adelaide Byrd thelNDUSTRlOUS NEEDLEWOMAN ' f -ivPS&l. r fc HOW do you like hemT For sep arate plate dollies and tumbler alia thtaa pretty clrolea are da ' signed. The larger alee will do tor placing here and there on the plain wooden top or on the luncheon clotTh. The smaller one la also good for the' bread and butter -plate. Foar or" Six of each size will make 'a valuable little set. If you have ever priced Madeira ; work, you will find what an Invaluable set I am offering you. lse a good, quality of linen and soft, merterixed cotton for working. If you wish, trace the designs by one of the transferring methods suggested below. The ring of circular dots that Is on i the Inner part of the design. is to be. done trt eyelets. In fact, to be strictly 'SOME SEWING-ROOM HELPS IP SOMETHING new be vour aim in the matter of ornamentation of a , blouse, drawn workls suggested as a relief from embroidery, lace ands in sertion. '" The coarsely woven material so much In favor this season possesses wonderful "drawing" qualities. When marquisette or voile is drawn and worked In coarse linen thread In some simple pattern, the decorative value Is wonderfully in creased. Squares, lines and points are suggested. When the blouse Is worn over a delicately colored slip to bring It Into harmony with the skirt, the result Is quite successful. LACE- limit -. iff I -rit 4 H- AVB3 you one of the attractive and, , let me add, very fashionable new collars of lace and net? lUQf. hu-. a rati 3i A i i ml i? mi lib HF later r If not, then get busy and make your self one or two or three, They are not hard to make at home and will give lust the right freshness and atyle to the Madeira work It ought to e entirely, In eyelets; but in this day of freedom and Independence we can depart from any embroidered track and Introduce In dividual notesJnto our work. I ; You wl embroider, the flowers, In aoltd work or In eyelets, and do the stem In Outline work and the leaves solid,? Eye lets also can be used for the flowers in petals and centers. Work the;, line of eyelets in the center of each doily in the regular eyeletstiteh. You can alter nate an eyelet with a solid dot it you wish, , ' '' Indeed, the keynote of satisfactory work is your own preference. The en tire design in eyelet is lovely; the en tire solid work Is good; the;. combination gives relief to fingers and the eye. And When sewing on buttons, put the thread through before you, lay the button on the material, so that the knot will be on the right side. That Jeavea it under the button and preventa It from being Ironed or torn away and thus, beginning the loosening process. Before you begin sew ing, lay a pin over the button, so that the thread will go over the pin. After you have finished filling the holes, draw out the pin and wind the thread around several times beneath the button. This makes a stem to sustain the pulling and wear of the buttonhole. When making buttonholes that show, 3nd A 1M VB' x afternoon frock. Any one of the pictured styles can very quickly be made If you are handy with the needle or, better still, if you know how to run a sewing machine. FTrat buy a sailor-collar pattern that flta you. Ihen cut vout of a piece H r , S-ti' M Kir L.r "... r ' ' surely you are the; one to be suited. Some embroiderers are using color la Madeira work, especially it the luncheon set is to le pnrt of a ' color acheme. Blue in; the pretty delft shade or china blue will" make a stunning set for the blue china. Green ,'for the cool, green " porcelain Is charming for summer. . Let tne suggest that the hand-worked Madeira sets last for years. They are i expensive If bought Cheap, if you em broider them. They last for years and launder with won derful success. No linen closet is com plete without them. and remarkably it Is best to fact them with a double piece of material. This may look a little clumsy at first, but is tar better than a frayed-out buttonhole, which requires frequent darning. - In the same way buttons should be sewed on with a small extra square of material under neath. of thin paper another pattern exactly like the first, and then lay the bought pattern aside for future use. The collar of net and lace here shown Is made by bssting a piece of fine white net, doubled, on to the paper pattern. Across the corner, down the center of the back and over the ' ahoulders are 'basted lengths of lace Insertion. On the very outer edge of the pattern baste a two-Inch ruffle of tucked net, that can be bought all ready hemmed and tucked. Now. over the seam that Joins the ruffle and net and around the neck line baste "Insertion, mlterlng the corners. Stitch around all edges, using a very fine machine stitch, or a running back stitch If It Is done by hand. Tear away the paper backing and your collar la ready to wear. Another dainty model is made of rows of Valenciennes edging and folds of filet net. Make another pattern of thin paper, cutting it with longer ends to give he surplice effect when the collar is worn. First baste on, the net, making four folds to lle flat, then the edging which forms the back of the collar, the In sertion and the edging to finish, stitch all securely, taking care to catch the lace firmly together, and run a row of stitching about four inches from each end to hold the folds In place. Tear off the paper pattern and an other collar Is ready for use. The shawl collar with fichu ends is especially good style this season. The one pictured here is of very fine hand kerchief linen and lace. ' This waa not made on a paper pattern, but was cut out from one lialng round- ing edges and long points Iri front. The lace and Insertion are sewed on by hand with a fine over-and-over stitch, first rolling the edges of the linen, as is . Lk if- 4. I i done when maklrfg fine handkerchiefs. Whip a pleating of edging around the Inner row of insertion and also on the outer edge, continuing it all the way around the neck.' In an afternoon any one -of these collars could be- completed, ; . , r (( 0 O O p - " 0 oMI - 0 O o 1 II if - The lojncn . - o o rv - fr , n -v0P oP o h Some New Ideas in Collars IT IS said that the modern girl Is so enamored with- the popular lace and embroidered collars In use these days that she will continue lo wear them all through the winter season on heavy serge and tweed surts. Tliey are made of the finest linen and cambric obtainable and are embroidered, tucked or trimmed elaborately with lace. Cuffs are made to match, and the Jubot frill that trims one side of the bodice Is very often Included In the set. The shops show many (vjery lovely odd sets; but, like everything of this nature, these are apt to be beyond the purse of the average woman. She need not be discouraged, however, for the daintiest of these sets can easily be made alj home. Purchase a sailor collar pattern and', if it does not exactly tit you, fold the paper over at the neck line until It docs flt pin or paste It that way and you have a guide by which almost any shape collar can be cut. Next, select the material, lay the pat tern on and cut it out. After this Is done it can be laid out flat and trimmed In any way you deBlre with lace or em broidery. If you want to embroider tho collar, stamp It with a scalloped edge and some pretty floral dCHign all t tie way around and work It with white mercerized cotton. If lace is uncd as a trimming, have two row of Insertion placed one Inch apart on the edge and whip an edge of narrow luce all the way around. White or ecru blonde having tiandu of lace Insertion and a line la e eilKO "makes the daintiest of collars; It can 1 used for cuffs and, of courac, for the side Jabot. This jabot should match the collar with which It is worn and la made of a straight piece of mate rial four Inches wide jat the top, gradu ating in width to two inches ut the lower end. It Is trimmed on the edge, as is the collar. Lay the other edge in fine pleats and bind it with a half-Inch band of cambric. Pin or button it un der 'the box pleat In the frijmt of the blouse. Cuffs are very simply made. Meas ure the width of your sleeve and cut the material that long and any width you desire. Trim In the same manner aa the collar and finish the edge that 1 turns under the sleeve with an Inch wide binding of cambric or tine muslin. When such pretty things are so easily made, no woman should be without these dainty dress accessories. Art-Square Blouses ONE of tfle newest offerings of the shops are beautiful design stamped "on squares of crepe de chine, satin and chiffon cloth, so that they, can be cut out and made -up Into . the popular kimono blouse. They come directly from Paris and are considered quite the correct thing, when made up. to wear with tailored 'gewn during the fall and winter. - Indeed, they are Ideally beautiful, soft and clinging. On a square yard of ream-colored crepe de chine la stamp ed a lovely design of shaded iplnk roses, -with soft, 'misty-looking- green leaves worked in aa a background. A. two- ' - ' . 0 o o .. .. . o n 0 cJ" 1) ' O 0 ZcucIonan Q Jj inch border of delicate green goes around the neck and edges the kimono sleeves and down each side of the back. All the needlewoman has to do Is to cut out the pattern and sew it up, edging, the neck and sleeves with a bit of iace, perhaps. The design 1 Stamped so that the pattern Is outlined and pan be dil with no difficulty whatever. Various combinations of color are to be had and numerous designs. Some of them are oriental In coloring and conventional in design, while ojhers Bhow t he most delicate tracery of flow ers nnd foliage. There is a wide range in sixes, so every - woman is sure to be fitted, and the price is . moderate. "They are tfie simplest possible blouses-to itnake; for, after the pattern Is cut, thifseam un der the arm and the undersieeve senm (which are one) are sewed up, each side of the back hemmed neatly, the neck and sleeves facod. hooks and eyes sewed on and a narrow band applied to belt It In at the waist line -pre ntol your blouse Is ready to wear, and as elaborately beautiful or dainty as you desire. NO trimming Is required,' for the trimming is stamped on the) square of material. They are' called -art squares deservedly, tor they are indeed artistic, 1 To Transfer . HERE are suggestions for trans ferring the pattern before- you to any material before working. ' Perhaps the easiest way Is the "window-pane" method. This Is successful when the material is thin,' like linen, batiste, etc. Pin the sheet of paper and the material together and hold them up against the glass of a window. With a sharp pencil draw on the material th" design, which can be easily seen through the goods. If one-half of the design only be given, unpin the paper and turn the ot-her side to the fabric. The strong light behind' will make it plain. If you have carbon paper, you should place the sheet between your fa brio . atid the newspaper. This latter ta on top. With a sharp pencil go over the outline "of the design. The Impression will be left n fine lines and will , last until worked. This method la success ful on heavy material. A Revival of Torchon Lace ; GOOD old-faahloncd handmade tor clion luce has been revived for the trimming of underwear. IJ la a durable, serviceable lace that never should have gone out of fashion, and moat women will welcome its returna they would the flowers In May. Our mothers used It on all fine under t. Tuin2)er wear, and it waa only given "up whin the masses of cnenp' laces were inUo dueed by the manufacturers. 4 Now, however, consumers are recnjK niilng the error of their ww apdfuur the torchqn patterns marta of substan tial ilnen threadV f With thlo revival It Is expected that some of the dainty handmade luces so dear lp the lieart of -our feminine an cestors will aguln be In vogue.. With fine crochet needle and a halt of linen, ' thread the Idle hours ran be protiubjv employed in making yards of lace after so ne simple pattern that will "not Ut the brain too much with the cou.ptJna of ' studies. Small handbooks, can be hil at; the art needlework flepartmcnis of ouo) large stores, that contain full In structions In the making of 1,jc (nut will not only give a dainty touch to l- homemade undergarments, but would t a most acceptable gift for the bnd tu be who is busily engaged In stO'-ttiru !, r trousseau' chest. We weleom ne revival of Ixmm $ torchon lace, ' 4