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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 27, 1908)
NT ( - IT" it' i ISP. AT last we find, time to consider the sartorial importance of the LX demi-season with its constant A A demand for appropriate cos- tuminj during the round of social occasions and inststant for correct street ' apparel. exigencies , of Christmas shop- demand such abject surrender gay all The ping . X.v th.t we SeSom WhSd to our shabby gowns or shapeless waiets (in these Empire days we may say waistless shapes) until after the holiday rush then when the interesting mystery of what you wished for what vou received and what you still need is dissipated and the prices begin' to descend the long felt want of ' a new walktne; stilt, blouse or afternoon gown reasserts Itself and I defy any woman to withstand the temptation of the a I- luring displays found in our splendid AN ESTIMATE OF A By Mrs. John A. Logan.' IT WOULD be "interesting to know why. ft Western college professor de-' votes o much of, his time to prove that the female, sex is and always has been a curse, a burden, an un necessary evil, a, slave, man's echo, and everything else . but : an intelligent human being endowed with an Immortal soul. The Lord God said, "It is not good' that .tman should be alone. I will make him a help mate for him." Evi dently this professor is disposed to be lieve that from Motner Eve down woman-'has been man's, evil genius and that she was not 'made "a little lower than the angels and crowned with glory nd honor." Like many other men, the professor seems to imagine that this dlstihctlon applies exclusively to the male sex, and that although God "male and female created he them,", although "God blessed them and God said,, unto them. 'Be fruitful and multiply and re- lentsh the eartn ana suDaue , ana c dominion over the fish of the Sea, antf. over uio luni ui iiiv bu - miu over every thing that'.moveth upon the earth." " ho did not .mean that woman should claim any right to a share In the honor and glory conferred by, the creator. . . ' ' - - , - ' -If the Biblical history of tho'orestlon THE A mm ft Portland? stores. No matter how varied or capricious "Milady's" tastes may be she is. provided a goodly opportunity to run the gamut . or hr likes in most of tbe well equipped departments. The accompanying sketches were ' selected from stock shown by a number of local establishments and are intended to de- plct the etyle and detail of the particu- lar jrartnents displayed. Dainty Blouse. j rplul, sov.nuiin ii net waist- and one finds them in .all .ha4e and styles from, the elaborate creations Jor formal evening wear to the "tub affairs" for business or" after- t "ome. They take most kindly to all sorts of decorations of lace em- broidery and braiding while . nothing could be more genteel, than the severely tucked ones. ' . . . Th particular blouse In "A" shown by McAllen & McDonnell Is of white net handsomely trirsmed In fulls of' net edged with val lace, a deep yoke dotted over with discs pf blue is piped in pompadous silk in. blending shades and 'outlined with the lace i edged net frl'l which shows Itself again on the collar is to be given any credence,' It would seem, though in doing so Eve brought .upon herself the displeasures . of her creator, that it was through 'her man' eyes were opened and he knew he was "to be as gods knowing good from evil." -when arraigned by his maker for having eaten ' the fruit of . the tree .of knowledge. Adam promptly replied: "The. woman whom thou gavest to be wtthjme she gave me of the tree and I did eat." From that day to this man with few exceptions has laid the blame ,of wrongdoing on woman. The daughters of Eve nave had to bear the, odium of being responsible for man's downfall and weak surrender to temptation, not withstanding the fact that the whole sex is considered by some men Intellectual Inferiors of the. lords -of creation and has been anathematized as the -weaker vessels, sirens, and many other oppro brious names. i t i Unfortunately, woman 1n the eyes of such men as our.' western professor, occupies an anomalous position in the list of God's creatures. Such -a- one as has been humorously described as the correct definition of the creed of a religious sect: "You can and you can't; you shall and you shan't: you'll be damned If you do, and you'll be -damned if you don t." Under such conditions what can woman dot- . This professor's diatribe on woman OREGON. SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY m I v 11 and sleeves. A butterfly bow of the pompadour silk teammates the yoke and gives the requisite color effect. The body Is in groups of tucks and fitted into the waist line without blousing. New Silhouette Outline. No woman Initiated into the approved methods of being "well dressed" would think of selecting a new costume before being properly fitted with a suitable corset. At the present time the hips are extremely long, the waist inclined to be a shade larger and the bust considerably- higher than formally. The model'"B" found at Roberts Brothers Is one of the many interesting new silhouette shapes manufactured by a well known firm and is immensely popular both because of its comfortable wearing qualities and graceful lines. Well-Shaped Petticoat. ; The pretty washable skirt "B" Js from Roberts Brothers welt selected stock of dainty underwear. It is made of an excellent quality of batiste with the new style' fitted flounces which precludes any. extra fullness about the feet, this flounce Is elaborately trimmed with an Intricate design of lace insertions and edged about with lace. A neat dust ruffle of the goods protects the upper flounce. Practical Fur Coat These "really" , winter days have awakened In us an unusual interest in practical furs and -while the chic col- WOMAN as he insists she is. mentally, morally, physically and psychologically, is little more than an Incomprehensible, . illog ical, hyperbolic harangue, which proves nothing and heavily discounts his claim as an Important factor in the advance ment of education and civilization and places him In the list of ''cranks' whose usefulness is a question. He has the reputation of being a man of much learning, a proposition no one would suspect from his articles on woman. His dissertations are uncompllmen-i tary to his mother for whom one would imagine he-had little respect if one may Judge from his supreme contempt for the female sex. For this reason one hopes that he has not beguiled a woman Into taking him ."for better or for worse." as she would assuredly have gotten, the worst of the bargain. It would - be impossible for any woman to live happily with a man so completely consumed with egotism. ' ' Once a, crusty old bachelor in a tilt with a bright 'woman, who said some thing as - to what his wife would . do under, circumstances analogous to those under (discussion, to which he replied testily; "Thank you. madam. I have no wife and never had one." She an swered, promptly: "If one was ever In tended for you, it is to be hoped she died in her infancy." One miajht re iterate this lady's expression in-this 'Sift laretto scarfs and boas displayed at Gumberts are splendid In novelties for ornament and decoration the snug warmth of the coat shown by him on figure "C" appeals to us exceedingly. It Is of Siberian squirrel In the long straight half fitted empire style with the back flatter and sleeves consider ably smaller than those of last year. The empire has gained Its popularity by virtue of its usefulness and the soft gray tones of the fur blending so read ily with the rich warm shades of the latest dress fabrics make a substantial and pleasing combination. The ex tremely becoming Naslmova collar and large rug muff with circular drop add materially to this handsome winter out fit. Smart Evening Wrap. Extremely novel in cut and style, yet filling all the requirements of fashion's demands . for long, graceful, flowing lines, is the evening wrap illustrated by figure "D" and shown at Le Palais Royal. It is done In heavy white broad cloth and is of circular cape, cut with elongated back and front. The trim ming is an artistic conventional design of bow, knots embroidered in heavy rope stlk floss and extends about the edges of the cape and collar. The collar, by the way. is one of those quaint touches of black so often employed by the French modiste to lend a note of dis tinction to the "ensemble." It is of black velvet, with Just a touch of gold thread and color ' tints In its decora tion, and terminates at the front in heavily Jeweled buttons and mixed white and black fringed tassels. The chic little hat shown on the same figure "D" is made entirely of black spangled net in open design, over white chiffon, the only color used on the scintillating white and black frame is a single large vivid red American professor's case. He is so offensive in his characterization of woman that one doubts seriously whether he believes the vagaries to which he: gives utter ance. They are probably based upon an egotistical-desire to be the author of some novel theories about woman and also to rid himself of personal revenge upon the female sex because one of them had administered a severe blow to his conceit by declining his conde scending attentions. He may write volumes derogatory to woman and exhaust all his pent-up fury against her, and it will avail noth ing nor prevent woman from contend ing side by side with men for tho prizes awarded for Intellectual ability, achievements in science, art, literature, and all fields occupied by men and women. His denomination of woman as "characterless" will in no wise displace her as the leader in all the great move ments for the enlightment and better ment of the world. The Mouse's Point of View. Said one little mouse unto another: "I'm terrified to death Whenever I meet womankind; V ' It takes away my breath, ' . I get so scared I miss my hole; She utters such a shriek , 1 now as blind as Cousin Mole. 1 ttm too scared to squeak. I think how awful It would he If she should chance to step on me." -Charlotte Parsons in Philadelphia Ledger, - " ' MORNING, DECEMBER 27, 7 flit MI I 5 7, ! ;' IE' IK: Will' Mi ft 5 Beautv mse and bud. which Is topped by a fluffy white aigrette. New Walking Suit,. For more elaborate tailor made suits that are worn for semi-formal occa sions In the afternoons, the skirts are of the same type as those of the "trot teur" class and are worn with the "Dl rectolre" coats, whose lone lines ad mit of extensive decoration. The smart suit In sketch "E" and shown at the unique 1 establishment, "Littlekost," is a charming example. The suit is of handsome black broad cloth, trimmed In imported silk nov elty braid, so arranged as to give tone and richness to the costume. A braid ed panel decorates the high waisted skirt and the coat has the cutaway fronts to display it. "Consulat" revers of Japanese embroidery and a rather deep neck opening complete the top. which allows a generous showing of blouse. Highly ornamental buttons of gunmetal adorn the fronts of this swag ger coat, while strikingly clever shaped cuffs and collar of black satin add the finishing touch. Most Desirable Afternoon Toilet. Figure "E" illustrates an afternoon gown of leather colored chiffon broad cloth, shown at the attractive estab lishment of the Drake & Swan com pany. This Is one of the handsomest creations shown this season of long, gracefully flowing unbroken lines. The sheath skirt Is slashed knee deep over an underskirt of heavily braided darker toned soutache, which is again brought into telling effect on the cuffs and over blouse. The sleeves are of self-shade satin and decidedly close fitting to the elbow, while the upper portion of broadcloth is so arranged as to simu late a continuation of the overblouse. Eight large satin buttons hold In place and accentuate the opening in the skirt, an.1 a yoke of rich cream Battenburg lace, with high pointed collar, fills In the square cut neck, which Is banded across the front with oriental embroid ery In delicate pastil shades. Parisienne Model. To begin at the top the head, the hat:, Have we not cause for gratitude that the stiffly trimmed formidably fashionable hat has faded into the dis tance to be replaced by an artistic cre ation that, because of its beautiful curves and lines, has commended ad miration since the days of Galnsbor-' ough. Sketch "G" 'illustrates a French design found at the Grand Leader's mil linery department, and is a wonderfully becoming shape of soft curves and drooping lines. The hat Is covered with heavy black satin and faced In dutt velvet Handsome ostrich plumes are massed at the top and form the only trimming. Word About the Hair. The correct arrangement of the hair becomes an insistent question to every woman in this day of elaborate and wonderfully made coiffures. The modes "" 'ni re new designs found at the well equipped I,eader. Madame Rlbbeck. the expert1 and clever "coiffure" in charge, kindly, offered the following suggestions, which will be greatly appreciated by women who are desirous of adopting the new. mid correct -arrangement . for v their "crowning glory.". The hair is 'more fised up than ever our large hats de-. mand It. One does hot dream of uslnar only one's own hair these days, for the i head appears to be as much trimmed as 1908. 1 A ft our hats are. In fact, it is not at alt uncommon for a woman wishing elab orate evening hair dress to order the de sired style, carry It home In a box; and pin it emooin ana unruniea on ner nroud )ltU(? heftd nt the last moment, The puff, the braid ending with curls. the roll, the switch every known va riety of "made to order" hair article is used by the-fashionable.. The principle back of, this -vogue there la a principle back of nearly ev erything, even false hall- la that-the hair should he made to follow the form of the hat. fill out or fall In. according to the Undulating brim. Puffs are not pulled out as formally, but are left smoothly round and open, as in illus tration "II. The arrangement in'" S5 s 5 Is old colonial, showing the loo drooping ends extending far out in f back and held securely in place by n, . of the new fillets. "J" Is the - r -' ular "pot handle," so ImmfA-ly pi--, ing if worn by the woman vnu a t of Grecian picturewiueneH in hi-r (r.. file. All hair Is limsely vi, t-" padour, low; the style ttni:ii t length from firehettit tj k, r !.- f i breadth. 'Anil now let m r if t mm .. Important channel The h;t'r W low over ' the ears. In wnn completely oitx-ealtt s t . -rj , 'j . . ' men la shown In "K" aio new .i tremely becoming. i., k, ;. ;
