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AT last we find, time to consider
the sartorial importance of the
LX demi-season with its constant
A A demand for appropriate cos-
tuminj during the round of
social occasions and inststant
for correct street ' apparel.
exigencies , of Christmas shop-
demand such abject surrender
gay
all
The
ping .
X.v th.t we SeSom WhSd
to our shabby gowns or shapeless
waiets (in these Empire days we may
say waistless shapes) until after the
holiday rush then when the interesting
mystery of what you wished for what
vou received and what you still need
is dissipated and the prices begin' to
descend the long felt want of ' a new
walktne; stilt, blouse or afternoon gown
reasserts Itself and I defy any woman
to withstand the temptation of the a I-
luring displays found in our splendid
AN ESTIMATE OF A
By Mrs. John A. Logan.'
IT WOULD be "interesting to know
why. ft Western college professor de-'
votes o much of, his time to prove
that the female, sex is and always
has been a curse, a burden, an un
necessary evil, a, slave, man's echo, and
everything else . but : an intelligent
human being endowed with an Immortal
soul. The Lord God said, "It is not
good' that .tman should be alone. I will
make him a help mate for him." Evi
dently this professor is disposed to be
lieve that from Motner Eve down
woman-'has been man's, evil genius and
that she was not 'made "a little lower
than the angels and crowned with glory
nd honor." Like many other men, the
professor seems to imagine that this
dlstihctlon applies exclusively to the
male sex, and that although God "male
and female created he them,", although
"God blessed them and God said,, unto
them. 'Be fruitful and multiply and re-
lentsh the eartn ana suDaue , ana
c dominion over the fish of the
Sea, antf. over uio luni ui iiiv bu - miu
over every thing that'.moveth upon the
earth." " ho did not .mean that woman
should claim any right to a share In
the honor and glory conferred by, the
creator. . . ' ' - - , - '
-If the Biblical history of tho'orestlon
THE
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Portland? stores. No matter how varied
or capricious "Milady's" tastes may be
she is. provided a goodly opportunity to
run the gamut . or hr likes in most
of tbe well equipped departments. The
accompanying sketches were ' selected
from stock shown by a number of local
establishments and are intended to de-
plct the etyle and detail of the particu-
lar jrartnents displayed.
Dainty Blouse.
j
rplul, sov.nuiin ii
net waist- and one finds them in .all
.ha4e and styles from, the elaborate
creations Jor formal evening wear to
the "tub affairs" for business or" after-
t "ome. They take most kindly
to all sorts of decorations of lace em-
broidery and braiding while . nothing
could be more genteel, than the severely
tucked ones. ' . . .
Th particular blouse In "A" shown
by McAllen & McDonnell Is of white net
handsomely trirsmed In fulls of' net
edged with val lace, a deep yoke dotted
over with discs pf blue is piped in
pompadous silk in. blending shades and
'outlined with the lace i edged net frl'l
which shows Itself again on the collar
is to be given any credence,' It would
seem, though in doing so Eve brought
.upon herself the displeasures . of her
creator, that it was through 'her man'
eyes were opened and he knew he was
"to be as gods knowing good from
evil." -when arraigned by his maker
for having eaten ' the fruit of . the tree
.of knowledge. Adam promptly replied:
"The. woman whom thou gavest to be
wtthjme she gave me of the tree and
I did eat." From that day to this man
with few exceptions has laid the blame
,of wrongdoing on woman. The daughters
of Eve nave had to bear the, odium of
being responsible for man's downfall
and weak surrender to temptation, not
withstanding the fact that the whole sex
is considered by some men Intellectual
Inferiors of the. lords -of creation and
has been anathematized as the -weaker
vessels, sirens, and many other oppro
brious names. i t
i Unfortunately, woman 1n the eyes of
such men as our.' western professor,
occupies an anomalous position in the
list of God's creatures. Such -a- one
as has been humorously described as
the correct definition of the creed of a
religious sect: "You can and you can't;
you shall and you shan't: you'll be
damned If you do, and you'll be -damned
if you don t." Under such conditions
what can woman dot- .
This professor's diatribe on woman
OREGON. SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY
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and sleeves. A butterfly bow of the
pompadour silk teammates the yoke and
gives the requisite color effect. The
body Is in groups of tucks and fitted
into the waist line without blousing.
New Silhouette Outline.
No woman Initiated into the approved
methods of being "well dressed" would
think of selecting a new costume before
being properly fitted with a suitable
corset. At the present time the hips
are extremely long, the waist inclined
to be a shade larger and the bust considerably-
higher than formally. The
model'"B" found at Roberts Brothers Is
one of the many interesting new
silhouette shapes manufactured by a
well known firm and is immensely
popular both because of its comfortable
wearing qualities and graceful lines.
Well-Shaped Petticoat.
; The pretty washable skirt "B" Js from
Roberts Brothers welt selected stock
of dainty underwear. It is made of an
excellent quality of batiste with the new
style' fitted flounces which precludes
any. extra fullness about the feet, this
flounce Is elaborately trimmed with an
Intricate design of lace insertions and
edged about with lace. A neat dust
ruffle of the goods protects the upper
flounce.
Practical Fur Coat
These "really" , winter days have
awakened In us an unusual interest in
practical furs and -while the chic col-
WOMAN
as he insists she is. mentally, morally,
physically and psychologically, is little
more than an Incomprehensible, . illog
ical, hyperbolic harangue, which proves
nothing and heavily discounts his claim
as an Important factor in the advance
ment of education and civilization and
places him In the list of ''cranks' whose
usefulness is a question. He has the
reputation of being a man of much
learning, a proposition no one would
suspect from his articles on woman.
His dissertations are uncompllmen-i
tary to his mother for whom one would
imagine he-had little respect if one
may Judge from his supreme contempt
for the female sex. For this reason one
hopes that he has not beguiled a woman
Into taking him ."for better or for
worse." as she would assuredly have
gotten, the worst of the bargain. It
would - be impossible for any woman
to live happily with a man so completely
consumed with egotism. ' '
Once a, crusty old bachelor in a tilt
with a bright 'woman, who said some
thing as - to what his wife would . do
under, circumstances analogous to those
under (discussion, to which he replied
testily; "Thank you. madam. I have
no wife and never had one." She an
swered, promptly: "If one was ever In
tended for you, it is to be hoped she
died in her infancy." One miajht re
iterate this lady's expression in-this
'Sift
laretto scarfs and boas displayed at
Gumberts are splendid In novelties for
ornament and decoration the snug
warmth of the coat shown by him on
figure "C" appeals to us exceedingly.
It Is of Siberian squirrel In the long
straight half fitted empire style with
the back flatter and sleeves consider
ably smaller than those of last year.
The empire has gained Its popularity by
virtue of its usefulness and the soft
gray tones of the fur blending so read
ily with the rich warm shades of the
latest dress fabrics make a substantial
and pleasing combination. The ex
tremely becoming Naslmova collar and
large rug muff with circular drop add
materially to this handsome winter out
fit. Smart Evening Wrap.
Extremely novel in cut and style, yet
filling all the requirements of fashion's
demands . for long, graceful, flowing
lines, is the evening wrap illustrated
by figure "D" and shown at Le Palais
Royal. It is done In heavy white broad
cloth and is of circular cape, cut with
elongated back and front. The trim
ming is an artistic conventional design
of bow, knots embroidered in heavy rope
stlk floss and extends about the edges
of the cape and collar. The collar, by
the way. is one of those quaint touches
of black so often employed by the
French modiste to lend a note of dis
tinction to the "ensemble." It is of
black velvet, with Just a touch of gold
thread and color ' tints In its decora
tion, and terminates at the front in
heavily Jeweled buttons and mixed
white and black fringed tassels.
The chic little hat shown on the same
figure "D" is made entirely of black
spangled net in open design, over
white chiffon, the only color used on
the scintillating white and black frame
is a single large vivid red American
professor's case. He is so offensive in
his characterization of woman that one
doubts seriously whether he believes
the vagaries to which he: gives utter
ance. They are probably based upon
an egotistical-desire to be the author of
some novel theories about woman and
also to rid himself of personal revenge
upon the female sex because one of
them had administered a severe blow
to his conceit by declining his conde
scending attentions.
He may write volumes derogatory to
woman and exhaust all his pent-up
fury against her, and it will avail noth
ing nor prevent woman from contend
ing side by side with men for tho
prizes awarded for Intellectual ability,
achievements in science, art, literature,
and all fields occupied by men and
women. His denomination of woman as
"characterless" will in no wise displace
her as the leader in all the great move
ments for the enlightment and better
ment of the world.
The Mouse's Point of View.
Said one little mouse unto another:
"I'm terrified to death
Whenever I meet womankind; V
' It takes away my breath, ' .
I get so scared I miss my hole;
She utters such a shriek ,
1 now as blind as Cousin Mole.
1 ttm too scared to squeak.
I think how awful It would he
If she should chance to step on me."
-Charlotte Parsons in Philadelphia
Ledger, - " '
MORNING, DECEMBER 27,
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Beautv mse and bud. which Is topped
by a fluffy white aigrette.
New Walking Suit,.
For more elaborate tailor made suits
that are worn for semi-formal occa
sions In the afternoons, the skirts are
of the same type as those of the "trot
teur" class and are worn with the "Dl
rectolre" coats, whose lone lines ad
mit of extensive decoration. The smart
suit In sketch "E" and shown at the
unique 1 establishment, "Littlekost," is
a charming example.
The suit is of handsome black broad
cloth, trimmed In imported silk nov
elty braid, so arranged as to give tone
and richness to the costume. A braid
ed panel decorates the high waisted
skirt and the coat has the cutaway
fronts to display it. "Consulat" revers
of Japanese embroidery and a rather
deep neck opening complete the top.
which allows a generous showing of
blouse. Highly ornamental buttons of
gunmetal adorn the fronts of this swag
ger coat, while strikingly clever shaped
cuffs and collar of black satin add the
finishing touch.
Most Desirable Afternoon Toilet.
Figure "E" illustrates an afternoon
gown of leather colored chiffon broad
cloth, shown at the attractive estab
lishment of the Drake & Swan com
pany. This Is one of the handsomest
creations shown this season of long,
gracefully flowing unbroken lines. The
sheath skirt Is slashed knee deep over
an underskirt of heavily braided darker
toned soutache, which is again brought
into telling effect on the cuffs and over
blouse. The sleeves are of self-shade
satin and decidedly close fitting to the
elbow, while the upper portion of
broadcloth is so arranged as to simu
late a continuation of the overblouse.
Eight large satin buttons hold In place
and accentuate the opening in the skirt,
an.1 a yoke of rich cream Battenburg
lace, with high pointed collar, fills In
the square cut neck, which Is banded
across the front with oriental embroid
ery In delicate pastil shades.
Parisienne Model.
To begin at the top the head, the
hat:, Have we not cause for gratitude
that the stiffly trimmed formidably
fashionable hat has faded into the dis
tance to be replaced by an artistic cre
ation that, because of its beautiful
curves and lines, has commended ad
miration since the days of Galnsbor-'
ough. Sketch "G" 'illustrates a French
design found at the Grand Leader's mil
linery department, and is a wonderfully
becoming shape of soft curves and
drooping lines. The hat Is covered with
heavy black satin and faced In dutt
velvet Handsome ostrich plumes are
massed at the top and form the only
trimming.
Word About the Hair.
The correct arrangement of the hair
becomes an insistent question to every
woman in this day of elaborate and
wonderfully made coiffures. The modes
"" 'ni re
new designs found at the well equipped
I,eader. Madame Rlbbeck. the expert1
and clever "coiffure" in charge, kindly,
offered the following suggestions, which
will be greatly appreciated by women
who are desirous of adopting the new.
mid correct -arrangement . for v their
"crowning glory.". The hair is 'more
fised up than ever our large hats de-.
mand It. One does hot dream of uslnar
only one's own hair these days, for the i
head appears to be as much trimmed as
1908.
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our hats are. In fact, it is not at alt
uncommon for a woman wishing elab
orate evening hair dress to order the de
sired style, carry It home In a box; and
pin it emooin ana unruniea on ner
nroud )ltU(? heftd nt the last moment,
The puff, the braid ending with curls.
the roll, the switch every known va
riety of "made to order" hair article is
used by the-fashionable..
The principle back of, this -vogue
there la a principle back of nearly ev
erything, even false hall- la that-the
hair should he made to follow the form
of the hat. fill out or fall In. according
to the Undulating brim. Puffs are not
pulled out as formally, but are left
smoothly round and open, as in illus
tration "II. The arrangement in'"
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Is old colonial, showing the loo
drooping ends extending far out in f
back and held securely in place by n, .
of the new fillets. "J" Is the - r -'
ular "pot handle," so ImmfA-ly pi--,
ing if worn by the woman vnu a t
of Grecian picturewiueneH in hi-r (r..
file. All hair Is limsely vi, t-"
padour, low; the style ttni:ii t
length from firehettit tj k, r !.- f i
breadth. 'Anil now let m r if t mm ..
Important channel The h;t'r W
low over ' the ears. In wnn
completely oitx-ealtt s t . -rj , 'j . .
' men la shown In "K" aio new .i
tremely becoming. i., k, ;.
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