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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 4, 1908)
Co7rttt, 1831, by America tun', Great Brltala Itlgtta Reserved; 1 '4 4 Sl?aler loal Syrbolie : , of quality of Inherit ance Uorn I3y Dauters of TuIti-TilIio9aires. Qoas vuitl? tisial Bord Uorn xritl7 poster te Uf?ite ft J-.J 'fit s9 mHR subject If cloekss bo. considering I '' past ' perform ances, I know that J. i'', pDDt about tbe closke Of eociety are - expected figures of tpeech before I be ' gin to discuss wltb proper gravity h graceful cloaks designed for tbt flgur of tht sinuous ladlet of society.. But Cholry, my husband, who really sop piled all tht previous puns, baa fright-, . fat cold in bis head -th common or gar den arloty of cold area though be la , a Knickerbocker, Cfcolly is deter ! Bat , ' i Coolly, at preaeat, la ao Ml There la, of - count, : the mantle of charity whlob In, . society ia used te eloa and Py " ambition, .For tbt benefit of charity, tbt society woman bai tbt few cbaneet of btr lifetime to poet before tbt footlights, V Bach wonderful Uvlng plctarta were those we bad Itat eeasonl Id Boatos, Chicago and Near York there waa a mixture of ' Ttnlty, gaytty and ebarity, and the great ., eat of those waa vanity. But It la a poor paycblc wart of vanity tbat blow no one any good, and tick babies in hospital! and Indigent women were benefited thereby. But now for cloaka of aatla, of en p pie broadcloth aud of costly furt. Cloaka, long, full and Bowing gracefully, will be of more .. Importance tbla seaeoa tbaa bttberto, for often they are really draperies tbat art a part of th costume Itself. They will be , worn in the afternoon more than In pre vious leasons, and black satin cloaks of tbe sort that our grandmothers loved will again be In style. Dull shades such as wistaria and eggplant are favorites, and many of the new cloaks from Paris are without any blatant trimming, but tbey are amazing In design. Tbe material la tied In knots, bang In fettouna from tbt shoulder and looks as though It were draped on the figure without any teams, Long, heavy taaaels bang from every possible point. Simple cloaks, of court, there are, and : tbe very sweetest" and aim pleat of these are adaptation of tbe Sbaker model. Tbest never go out of style, Tbe Shakers at Mt Lebanon and at West rittafleld, near tbe fashionable villa colony at Lenot, make . cloaka. la all, tbe soft, tweet candy colors beloved by brides and debutantes. HIM Dura'nd, tbe daughter of Btr Mortimer Du rand, when her father waa Ambassador to tbls country, spent the Bummer la Lenox, and so dellgbted was she witb tb Shaker cloaks tbat speedily the , daughters of tbe mqlti-mllllonalret followed ber lead and . adopted them for evening. Tbe cloak orig inally meant "unspottednee from tbe world . and equality of inheritance,"' and tbey were made only in dull drab colors. Bat over tbe " glittering spangled frock tbey are tossed by tbt gay butterfly girt of the social world. Off to tbe dance in tbt cloak tbat signifies tbe principles of Mother Ann Ltel Off to Sherry's for tbt supper with ebampagne, tquabs and alt tbe rich viands In tbe cloak of tbe febakers, who attll adhere to tbe principle tbat a vegetable diet has "a hap plfjlng Influence oa tbt' mind." For tbe "bapplfylng influence" wt In society de pend upon tbe champagne bubble. Purls, let It be expUlned, Is now peopled Tbe original cloak of tbt Bhakers waa with pen-and-ink ladles. The fad was bora very abort Sometimes one sees tbls model; at Ostend, where tableaax vtvant Ilk the It falls only to tht waist lint and baa a dra wings by Beardsley were given during small cape tbat falls over tbt arm. Lately, August So the fad quickly arrived la bowever, It his been made mocb like tbt Paris, and baa been brought serosa tbe Coonemarra doak worn by the blne-eytd oceaa by returning travellers. Tes, even girls of Ireland, who go po take tbelr seats o New Tork. women ere trying to look like on tbe wtehlng-stonet In tbe hope ef baling pen-and-ink drawings. In tbe society pa tbelr heart's desire. ' pers tbat come from London there are all Aa an adjunct of tbe Beardsley eeetomet aorta of queer poster olctorea placed la a tier UJ be trunr black cloaks lined with blark border, and these era 17 Illustrations wblte. ana white cloaks lined with black, are used as models by the dressmakers. The New Butterfly Dance. royefyo, (Japdouraf;, tarjdaripar)d ljjoorisl? oats Erripe to A3 fobbd-of R5 ,Saii54 to ffla lri5toeratiQ Taptls. 1. V fit ft B "in. latest cxronent of clr.aslcal 4s a c- be baa succeeded la combining tbt aklll tf ; Is ill's Thrills Monkman. wbt the trained dancer with tbat poetry of me appear In tb third art ef tne noa waicn nss nitnerto Dee a ine tuiataaa- eaual'-al play "Eatteraiea." at tbt ApoUo log feature of tbe recent revival of tbt Tbeatr Id London. An English paper ancient Greek style ef dancing, printed this criticism of Miss Monkmaa'a 'Tbt management consider that to obtain sUctliig: "This girl, who rtnaot be mora tbe perfection of poetic charm, tba dance ttiaa seventeen, and la remarkably pretty, .should ba danced by a young girl Jaat bot tfpeare as a butterfly with gauae wings flog late womanhood, rather tbaa by a lady and a skirt which was little more this wboae cbarms are more ma tared. There wfchtfjrrr The ortr rererlsc en tbe eppte is cot the slightest soggeatioa of in dell-p-.rt of her body waa a brest platf of eacy elder in tba dance or In tba eot jew1i and a few striata ef glittering tome." states. Tbe yecn; (M Is aa rxcefleat Mian Monk-man, wbe is a very grarefal daacer, and nliberuek la bet movements' and alee a pretty wostaa was bora la there it netblag su:rrtj'r or ebjerttoaablt, Jaaoary, 1892. and aada ber flrat appear Jt la n ejt-ewtltn wbetber tbe art ef tbt a are am tbe stage wbes she was twsivt, stajre Is tdvaured hj tbe tatrodactlo ef n She as tbe daughter ef Mr. Jark Barrtooa, girt awrUany ca se natter hew poetse wt tbt EcrentrX Oob. of Leadon. ber rc ac4 eUnelrf aaay be. Tbe fact" th-.t M'es Uentrwaa la loot hoCS'.ng tatt wasi tretntnatee tbe, deebtfel taett f eUtRg aa atttewtae ebamtcg act wttft U11 lBtrMftrUit) ? sack Aaere." It rep!y t Cbla, tbt atr.afnMrtt af tbt theatrt aaadt vlgeret pretest. It tb rtt tf wkkb tbey saUs T tea a geese et dalaa fbat tb iae ia bU tXUtM ne4 peetle, . wtdv a. u at far to advase f f j Mcy trt t tatde dtestdag as) eaant te vrt. tt w vlv by Mr. WCJ 9 art U tt ftrr tt tb fctftt Uat. tag . DoITi LacL Margie waa lad its'iin .i t em Lr deU, wen the enddealy stpTed work tod trd te krr aratbvr: "Ob. ntaiama, wtat e tb ttdttzaed. "Vbat 1 tbe U-awV. a U seerler. -I Mevted t mete mf 4nll Wret - xpia44 Margie, "tad 1 t'iere t l gatag t teta east aa apranjt Wejcaa BoM Cewp!. J Ihlxtr kt;i It'll in III I mm . P nr. A A Broadcloth Evening Qoak of Wisturia Oilor with One End Thrown Over Left Shoulder lo Protect Chest and Making a Graceful Drapery. Trimmed with Widt Band of Embroidery with Delicate Blue, Silver and Gold Combined. The Collar Is of Dnchtstt Ltet with a Pale Blue Ribbon of Liberty Satin Tied at One Side. B A Cloak el Apricot-Colored Chiffon Velvet with White Satin Lining Folded Back . in Two Ravers at Each Side. Ends Are Knotted and Tassels Are Used as Trim ming. Large Artificial Rosea Make the Collar and the Waiatcoat ia Apricot-Color Embroidered with Silver and Gold. C Gorgeous Oriental Dinner Coat of Red Satin with Bird and ' Dragons Embroidered in Green jvith Gold. D A Cloak of Donkey-Gray Broadcloth Lined with White Satin' and Trimmed with tailless sort nd only trimmed wltb wide But Cholly saya tbat I lo my South Amerl- were Inserted like to many exclamation polnta arranged wltb mathematical txtct- i?f J II ' oe Tb roTtl w d,rlSl by th clety bad our ermine In atoriga for yeas In Jact, until tbt farriers decided to emit tbt tails. Mrs. P. A. Valentine baa stunning optra cloak of tailless ermlue uioimed with wldt borders of tbe fur, lo which tbe tails ar Inserted. Often tbt Ilttlt appendage mm maAa IntA taeMl.llkA npnamjtnte oe lntA ' I fiSk . lit V N a unaaea-llke cbaln that bane from tba collar In front. Tbar It so danger tbat tailless artnlnt will look like chean coney 1 -:SNrV Ifv II 'u (wWe.1 tom tD mx nlxnttl that vvl il K. Fi onct uved bapplly on Coney itiand), for it "tl lL fl rat oetatlfully, whereaa with tht cheaper 4 And Was there ever aucb a droll proces sion as when we go to dinner parties when wt troop Into a house, leaving ear carriages, one after tht other, aa wt past II, fx jr under tbe awning oa our way to the ,aI III! jrl . door! Tbt dinner cloaks this rtu art gorgeous, even terrifying In design. For thil proor see illustration c. wnen we enter residence for a dance or a dinner, It la like a pageant representative of many sav age tribes. Under tbe awning we paas and Into tbe full glare of tbe golden light tbat streams from tbe open door. For In stance, a person "who is op In tbat sort ef thing" and who knows the nationality lull AV all fit anvnvA d nn, lnnk,i Bra Wat, rWff mlsbt have a hilarious half-botir watcblue us at we go trooping ia, First, for ex ample, will coma Mrs. Passetgh, almost de crepit, who swears off on ber sge (wt can swear off and about anything we choose in society) every chance she gets. She has a gorgeous evening cloak made of bright yellow, tbe Bmperor'a color in Caina. and only permissible for those not of royaNvJ mooa wnen over seventy or is it eighty III t Mmntl " ' We". ny rate, she Is only a bit below tbe seventy mark. Then will come that pitifully tbin Miss Wllbelmlna Boan-Sharpedget (ber father It of an Old ffttttily from The Hague), who will go striding along la Moorish cloak tbat hat an abaya, a gorgeous sort of vest. Cboliy laughed to when be explained to me, with ont eyt 00 Wllhelmlna, as wt hurried In. tbat a fit, aristocratic Moorish woman al trt combined with aable In tbt making .of wJ waddlea like a duck to prove tbat sht magnificent muff. cannot work for living. Then tbt gor- Ermlne will, of course, be appropriated geout mandarin Jackets I One really ex by tho potttt girls. But tbe aristocratic pects to tee tbe Queen of Sbeba carried In oner cloak of ermlnt mutt be made of tbe on palanquin and bringing up tbe rear. . . ... . . V).. A -1t l . It. A. W n i . 1 '4 f! Heavy Silver Cord and Tassels. Illustrators In Parlt now earn big sums If yards upon yards of valuable lace on one tbey choose by doing tbt lint work for black of Mrs., Lehrs costnmes se tbat It waa costumes, making an artistic arrangement unnecessary to cut It Tbe day tbat Cbol- of tbe black and white. . A auperb gandou- iy' cold was to bad (of course, like ail rah cloak ( garment copied after tbat of men, be almost aeared himself into pneo tbs Kabylet lo North Africa) will be cat, monla) bt said bt ' thought perbapa he'd bands f tbt other kind tht nld-fasbloned can poncho make a conclusion daixllng variety of ermine, In wWlch- little black tails enough for a grand opera parade. How Science Explains That "Sixth Sense, CLAIRVOYANTS and persona of an In or discomfort; while tht flsb, provided tensely superstitious nature art aomt- wltb awlmmlng-bladder, feels so precise tim said to possess "sixth sense" a sensation, when obliged to rise or sink tbat is, tbey are conscious of tbe exUta la the water, that be la enabled to resume ence of things which are not to bt realised bis normal position by tbe action of this through taate, toncb, sight, smell or bear- organ, lug.- s "n tne other hand. In certain oceanic But such an appeal to tbe brain can cephalopoda, there bare been found, on tbe hardly be ssld to be through any body caudal fln, aptclat eyea wltb opaque lenses, "sense." and therefore tb "sixth .sense" organa adapted to tbe perception of beat One of tbe most original cloaks to wear gold and silver threads across the stems referred to floes not really belong in that rays, wltb a pen-and-ink costume Is of enow- ,( tbt notes and through tbt ban. Of ta'egory Science points eat, however, that "Senses simply differentiated In man may white broadcloth witb wldt border made MaM Cbollv bad a lot to say about using terrain animate bave tba advantage over be found laolaud In anlmnla. Th. of appllcatlona of black velvet Ton look the dollar algn instead of tbt clef algn, bat man tbat tbey are actuated by not merely tlons of banger, thirst tbe reaction af the at tbt border, and yon note a charming de- j wtBt tb, wajrji worked out artistically six aensea, bnt in some cases of even ad- blood on tbe brain cells, alae conatttute aup- for example, from wbltt liberty tatin and will be lined wttb black aatln of tbe aame sort. The black abowt down tbt front where tba doak parte ia a looplike drapery at the back, while black pipings tmskt ef fective llnet on tbt snow-wbltt ground. better choose "Tbe Merry Widow" wait for my border, and In tbt end tbat la what we really decided to have. Tbt cloak Itself will be Boumanla la style, and not of black and wblte exclusively, bat with a trailing vine embroidered wltb floe algn wltb borlsontal llnet and egg-shaped figure at tbt end of etemsA Tblstler made tf black velvet application tnd line em broidery silk, you observe, art Cleverly In troduced in tbt border. Just such cloak and correctly, and new be la doing it btaatlfully. Cholly la s clever! Tbt dollar siga fat bowevtr, eonsplcooM o tbt loag cloaka of sable, chlncillU or waa designed by aa artlat for a gay friend ermine, for tnly a billionaire eat bay for of mint. Her parlor trick or atunt, wa hlm Hassles aable cloak ef tb oct really call It In society) Is to sing Scotch 1 Mw Atbtr day. The akin r so songs, for ber fstber Is one tf those shin perfectly matched that the dark marking ing steel magnates of Pittsburg born In ja the for meet I polnta dewa tbt sesm Bobble Burnt country. '"Annie Laurie." ,B UcK mmVnf Vii u from th wben she alngt tt by tb llgbt tf tbt fra- w tB hem. On would think the grant, Uyberry caadlet, whlc are eon- a,rk Ud(i4 nttt pi.iBtea on th f ur wlU a doclvt to teaUment, always make one cry. t.rtmh. Cklnckllla. thm nat Mriakahla tnr. So one of tb artists wbe tat In tbt caadl ta the aame dm tbe moat popular far iigat, noes anoraa vj bt aaoQa yeaag glrla. airs. Bmitb vote, came ber devoted alar, and bt tt sjcKUa, wn has bees a amasii V . A - Jk fitm MlmU IJlria1' Iia. ... ..... w mm mmw w - rtSSfTII St IWDOft der for ber wtlte broad doU evealag cloak. pcTt ehlchllla, tad ay oca wn soon iiboti iw auaaie borwngk always ba eaa canny raa ta ong. Dellcat Bower. dltlooal special sense. ' plementary tenaea: aucb. too. la tbe muaco in aescrthtng some or tnese pneoomen iar aenas that glvea tbe Impress! of la tb Parla Cosrooa. tb naturailat. B. weight and the aenae that furntabe an Idea Heriebar. says: of the abap of bodlea. -A sense Is defined by tb action of "As regards bearing, even when there It certain excitant oa th organs, followed by auditive sense, there may exist a eensl- a phenomenon of consciousness dlffJealt t wilty to vibration, reading In tbe bonea. .. Ihla la very delicate To flab and In certain "Vlaloa la tbe teflon of Ugbt oa tbt eye wermfk well-deflaed aarfae f taategwn cosv -j.mong BptcttX 0 of MDnM , ttltatlo. la all .n.naUl b,t eve wo.. in)lB,te w, BOt? koJbsTltng tbt ty doe. not txtet tber. may atW b th, .errnr. of .fjuitoea, for lndicaU."J rctlo. to light, a. I. th eworau the pcriodldt, of -T, mo7e.t".a1 rt! Tbi has been called . dermsttU' top- , whJCB satloo. laiit la k Mmtm mnri - n4..i,, A " Ordlaare aaBlHlreeS t llgbt mat bt m-t . .. . u.iiia. - mil m pifte or I urn sragf QI HoUlna nbd!vtded lata tw nrts liBs!o tad .v. . , . . . " V . ' Dh!T.f lurt 'lmtUrl' "It 1. ai, . -,,I(k MN- th.t lnfort.7n tbe Dnckeas f Mart- t,oa era tact preeeur tad ee f anlB.a, ... h 1 aa ew eaaak af tkla . . .v.v--- .n w w taevementt by means f ft note and recognise tbt u. fBr -per.. lo "V.-IIj k. - f fluid In tb wmlclrrttar rrv ko-ever. win .. an . .V tVL'?"?? " tb ear. Tblt It tb c- U ... tbM mnslcnl border g ( traaia, , tb krw.d, tB.t Hb chlf- marmw.Tkl. d.ffervaL'.tl. f ' I ".TJtl'ZZl wtthu1aa! - d r-e f or hut.nc. -a, b es totrtTta ebiwn po.u..iyi tb. T fj' 5 tptcn. for tb deb wttb tbto tec tie UfHI , btac, fk!1ToB A11 rxpe,. Vr. ttM, ( ,M w umpftmn r at- , ,bf Urr,lt m ..U, baa tlaUl Mcrtt.tb- nM t!alM, . trln M Jn Wben hked. w, th.Y.f e7laai-. .aaf- ''M U In motlen. Tbla pbenosi- Ucbed t It. . relied In tbla way. htafla, f ctnrM. art fected. Trb abonld Ibmfar b vW4 . In fart, tb ate! border art not baM etdm carried t tb tbeatrt, bet for tk Bt ihre tbeset tttslUv te txtsv 11 ,b fersi of as tt nplct as tbat ngly Orcte key. tsoat tempt eort, wben tb lesg far tnr. bt tad l , nw tea tkknaat la enaaed by tb to- wblc I taw xnbroMr4 wltb heavy etlb teat la wrn t tb afteraeaa. tber ar . -Aloag tbia tie saes It at aJaraya a Mttttoa tf tbla fluid ha a rwtcl. Be f dad grea a a wld berdcr that MrprMag dwmtlew. A bird f ardia rt at4Wrd fertaia a class ka wttb r tb bear daring i tVitoi rwUted a claai f blecwtt-eolored broad do:, asay bav ft bill pre let tb far aei ia utefraaat tba. Tr mi cenatartt fort m maintain vertkaj pet. Cboty It M bsry deslgnlag a aa astral t ore a re ealerrd plamag will esaerr la reasar hs tb ssanfJaa ' wbr be 8v tie- vcat af rerttramy brfeg ate " ne wear a wh cloak for sae. Be la lost aa aatck enrvtag eprara. Try ft 0y lat aad auslfeae UeaeatB t bias !y aaMit aacat ta tbe eaa!. ad tberefer teeaa. Md ?ul Z1 viri m. Ail U tf a ef H FVi? UZU errf4 Mo krtw ebiff a4 grgoi prvys teat nr" by tjmtaa tf vta-bia bag be b rSJ a trat -Utk A fcltek4-wMt poster girt tblt Wttr fte wear a wait ua "
