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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 4, 1908)
' j' ' 'V;'"'-' set forth, and one is told to wear' black .cotton 'V . ' . ".: , I ' .: ; stockings under silk hose so that the, flesh will minM" - . jfry I ealQ? Kr-77?S5 - I V" . not fihowl - One ia directed not to wear a watch jf"1 .. . '" JlSSJSOX '" 1 1 1 LSt' 6C7 AT Or a few 'American men who go abroad are as anxious to be pre sented at court on the other side as is the average A merican woman of wealth and social aspirations! Naturally, most of these would prefer presentation at the court of St. James. Presentations of Americans are fre-s quent there and the procedure is more or less well known. We of ten read of the stunning gowns worn on such occasions by Mrs. Blank and her daughter, perhaps. We hear, too, that Mr. Blank wa: included , among those permitted to bow before their majesties, but as a present theory only a vague idea is conveyed of what Air. Blank wore, . v-A ,: There is no court in the world, ex cept, perhaps, the Austrian, where dress regulations are so strictly i enforced as at that of England. Every: detail of one's garments is regulatedby decree, and not even the kings tailors, and the queen's 'dressmakers have been more familiar with these details than has 'Edward, even long before he began holding courts in his own right. A short time ago a remarkable book was issued in England by direct com- mand, it is stated, of the king. This in- teresting work described in much detail ; just how every man should be dressed when appearing at court functions; it .is a vol ume given over to the long neglected realm of man's sartorial appearance, without a word telling what the women must wear. 'And the king himself is its sponsor. KINO EDWARD is a stickler for correct dress. Accuracy even in the smallest details ' of official costume and naval and mili tary uniform is demanded by the English sovereign- Many of his subjects have been cen sured by his direction for carelessness in or ig norance of official attire, and even actors on the stage appearing in court dress in which errors were evident have had reproofs administered. A mistake' in dress is regarded by King Edward as inexcusable. - The new volume jo.t issued with the author ity of the Lord Chamberlain and edited by A. P. TrrndelL of, that department, is designed espe cially to render errors ia matters of dress im posciLle. . It marks the extreme punctiliousness f the king in matters of dress. Details cf loth cM td new styl.- f dress re rivt n. Materials required, breadth cf laces, kind cf cords, stjlns of shirts, vests, breeches, 11 the details are minute! described. . Evea the Lit J cp J ki.fUi of EsdergsrmenU to be worn is Tim OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, ' SUNDAY aEmEIHEIATESI set forth, and one is told to wear black .cotton stockings' under silk hose so that the flesh will not show.- One is directed not to wear a watch chain at court, but a black silk fob with seals, which should hang from the fob pocket on the right side. To the lay person all these details' may seem bewildering and foolish. But at a court where dress signifies rank and men's garments desig nate their positions the small details assume monumental significance. - " Few men present so dignified an appearance as King ' Edward himself. The portrait by Worthy, reproduced here, is considered one of the finest likenesses of his majesty. It shows him in frock court dress. ; Impresfiye to a degree is the dress of his majesty's bodyguard of the honorable corps of gentlemen-at-arms. The coat is of scarlet cloth, with a blue . velvet collar, cuffs and turnbacks on skirts. -,.The collars and cuffs are decorated with gold embroidery and ihi back skirt with a gold exnbroidemi wreath and crown and silver port cullis. The epaulets sre f gold bullion espe easily designed. AiguiUettes of gold cord art yrn ly officers. The trousers are of II oe cloth, cSeers wearine osk-ksf lace two and one-balf inchea wide. The LeWt is cf silt metal. Witit 'J- -Ji"-'' -l 7 V'- J :, , I' USA sZZZD r b )(J 0 a front ornament of gilt royal arms wiuun a garter and mounted on a silver star. It is sur mounted by a plume of white swan feathers eighteen inches long. Such details as the waist sash, sword knot, pouch, shoulder belt, boots, spurs and gloves are all regulated. Various members ot his majesty's household and the civil officers wear a dress of blue and white and gold. Civil officers wear f uL dress at courts, states balls, state concerts and similar functions. The single-breasted coat is of blue cloth, elaborately embroidered with gold oak - .leaves. Black velvet cuffs and collars mark the civil officers from officers of the king's house hold. The width of the gold oak-leaf embroidery marks one's rsnk. For the first class it mutt not be more than five inches wide and for tbe second-class not more than four inches at the bese-f the front. Tbe embroidery on the cuffs of firs inches marks a wesrer as first class and four inche: as second class. Ereeches of wfcite kerseymere snd white silk hoM sre worn. Blsck pstent lesther shoes with pilt buckles are proper; . the sword knot cost he of gold lsce with a bullion tasseC tbe HORNING, OCTOBER ,4. IADS sword belt of white web. , Officers of the first class wear a black beaver cocked hat with a black silk cockade, white os trich feather border and a treble, gold bullion loop tassel with hangers. Officers of the second class wear a similar hat, with a double gold bullion loop and plain gold tassels without lisnger. ' ' . New regulations have been adopted concern ing the dress of lord lieutenants. These gentle teen wear a cos tee of scarlet cloth with two rows of silver-plated buttons down the front, nine in each row, the wsut'.belt to run between the J i a . . 7-T H eighth" and ninth buttons. The skirt of the coat is . edged in white ; the collar, flaps, cuffs and slashes are "trimmed with silver embroidery. Oak-leaf and acorn embroideries are worn by lieutenants from Welsh counties, thistle for Scotch counties and the shamrock by officer from Ireland. A black silk cocked hat ia surmounted by,. white swan feathers ten inches in. length, with fed feathers under them. Trousers' are of blue cloth. " : These radiant garments are modified to st degree by the court dress of the lord chancellor, judges and legal lights entitled to wear siDc robes. Legal dress calls for a black silk velvet coat, pigeon-breasted, closing with notched but tons, round gauntlet cuffs and black silk lining. The lord chancellor and fudges of the high court are distinguished from others in the law by black velvet buttons; the others wear cut steel A curious part of the garment is. a wig bsffi attached to the coat at Ihe back of the neck, , wherein the tail of a wig may be inserted. With the coat is worn a waistcoat of black silk velvet! without a collar, closing with four, buttons of a' similar size, matching those on tho coat Black silk hose ' and black patent -leather shoes are worn. Lace ruffles are about the neck and at the : cui?3. The hat is black silk, cocked. j '' -Ordinary folk presented at court wear Tel-, vet dress. The coat is of blr.ck velvet, to be worn open, revealing a white satin or black silk velvet waistcoat. Heretofore persons have occa-,' - sionally appeared at court wearing a waistcoat made of white corded silk or white marcella, and special! instructions are now given that this if irregular. ' . . - ) The body of the coat Is Hne3 with wbJt silk, the tails, with black. , Breeches are of black silk velvet, with' three small, steel buttons ' and steel buckles at the knees. Hosiery must be black silk,: the shoes black patent leather with steel buckles. A black beaver or silk cocked hatr is proper. A sword with - ft' steel hilt, black scabbard and steel mountings is carried on a black-velvet frog at- -tached to a black silk web waist belt'worn under the waistcoat i AMERICAN AMBASSADOR'S GARB When Mr. Reid, the ambassador from the United States, appears at court he wears a frock dress. . His cost is a black evening dress coat, lapelled, possibly faced in silk; a black or white evening dress vest, breeches made of plain black dress material or stockinet, with three small black cloth buttons and a small jet or, black buckle at the knee. His hosiery is black silk, his . shoes plain court style, tied with bows, his head- gear a corded silk folding cocked hat with ro sette. A white evening dress bow tie is impera tive. His gloves are white. Evening dress with' - trousers are worn at levees. JThe ambassadors from Switzerland and Cuba also wear this dress. Ambassadors, ministers and attaches from other countries wesr uniforms according to regula tions of their own courts. With all court uniforms soft-bceomed' shirts with white cuffe are advised.. Plain gold or pearl studs should be worn on the shirt fronts. When breeches are worn, the undergarments should ex tend only to tbe knees. One of the most impor tant rrgulstions is that concerning tbe width of embroidery, which marks the rank of the wearer. Compliance with these regulations will obviate errors and mistakes at court -
