' j' '
'V;'"'-' set forth, and one is told to wear' black .cotton 'V . ' .
".: , I ' .: ; stockings under silk hose so that the, flesh will minM" - . jfry I ealQ? Kr-77?S5
- I V" . not fihowl - One ia directed not to wear a watch jf"1 .. . '" JlSSJSOX '" 1 1 1 LSt' 6C7
AT
Or a few 'American men who go
abroad are as anxious to be pre
sented at court on the other side as
is the average A merican woman of wealth
and social aspirations! Naturally, most of
these would prefer presentation at the court
of St. James.
Presentations of Americans are fre-s
quent there and the procedure is more or
less well known. We of ten read of the
stunning gowns worn on such occasions by
Mrs. Blank and her daughter, perhaps.
We hear, too, that Mr. Blank wa: included
, among those permitted to bow before their
majesties, but as a present theory only a
vague idea is conveyed of what Air. Blank
wore, . v-A
,: There is no court in the world, ex
cept, perhaps, the Austrian, where dress
regulations are so strictly i enforced as at
that of England. Every: detail of one's
garments is regulatedby decree, and not
even the kings tailors, and the queen's
'dressmakers have been more familiar with
these details than has 'Edward, even long
before he began holding courts in his own
right.
A short time ago a remarkable book
was issued in England by direct com-
mand, it is stated, of the king. This in-
teresting work described in much detail
; just how every man should be dressed when
appearing at court functions; it .is a vol
ume given over to the long neglected realm
of man's sartorial appearance, without a
word telling what the women must wear.
'And the king himself is its sponsor.
KINO EDWARD is a stickler for correct
dress.
Accuracy even in the smallest details
' of official costume and naval and mili
tary uniform is demanded by the English sovereign-
Many of his subjects have been cen
sured by his direction for carelessness in or ig
norance of official attire, and even actors on the
stage appearing in court dress in which errors
were evident have had reproofs administered.
A mistake' in dress is regarded by King Edward
as inexcusable. -
The new volume jo.t issued with the author
ity of the Lord Chamberlain and edited by A. P.
TrrndelL of, that department, is designed espe
cially to render errors ia matters of dress im
posciLle. . It marks the extreme punctiliousness
f the king in matters of dress.
Details cf loth cM td new styl.- f dress
re rivt n. Materials required, breadth cf laces,
kind cf cords, stjlns of shirts, vests, breeches,
11 the details are minute! described. . Evea the
Lit J cp J ki.fUi of EsdergsrmenU to be worn is
Tim OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, ' SUNDAY
aEmEIHEIATESI
set forth, and one is told to wear black .cotton
stockings' under silk hose so that the flesh will
not show.- One is directed not to wear a watch
chain at court, but a black silk fob with seals,
which should hang from the fob pocket on the
right side.
To the lay person all these details' may seem
bewildering and foolish. But at a court where
dress signifies rank and men's garments desig
nate their positions the small details assume
monumental significance. - "
Few men present so dignified an appearance
as King ' Edward himself. The portrait by
Worthy, reproduced here, is considered one of
the finest likenesses of his majesty. It shows
him in frock court dress.
; Impresfiye to a degree is the dress of his
majesty's bodyguard of the honorable corps of
gentlemen-at-arms. The coat is of scarlet cloth,
with a blue . velvet collar, cuffs and turnbacks on
skirts. -,.The collars and cuffs are decorated with
gold embroidery and ihi back skirt with a gold
exnbroidemi wreath and crown and silver port
cullis. The epaulets sre f gold bullion espe
easily designed. AiguiUettes of gold cord art
yrn ly officers. The trousers are of II oe cloth,
cSeers wearine osk-ksf lace two and one-balf
inchea wide. The LeWt is cf silt metal. Witit
'J- -Ji"-'' -l
7 V'- J
:, , I' USA
sZZZD r b
)(J 0
a front ornament of gilt royal arms wiuun a
garter and mounted on a silver star. It is sur
mounted by a plume of white swan feathers
eighteen inches long. Such details as the waist
sash, sword knot, pouch, shoulder belt, boots,
spurs and gloves are all regulated.
Various members ot his majesty's household
and the civil officers wear a dress of blue and
white and gold. Civil officers wear f uL dress at
courts, states balls, state concerts and similar
functions. The single-breasted coat is of blue
cloth, elaborately embroidered with gold oak -
.leaves. Black velvet cuffs and collars mark the
civil officers from officers of the king's house
hold. The width of the gold oak-leaf embroidery
marks one's rsnk.
For the first class it mutt not be more than
five inches wide and for tbe second-class not
more than four inches at the bese-f the front.
Tbe embroidery on the cuffs of firs inches marks
a wesrer as first class and four inche: as second
class. Ereeches of wfcite kerseymere snd white
silk hoM sre worn. Blsck pstent lesther shoes
with pilt buckles are proper; . the sword knot
cost he of gold lsce with a bullion tasseC tbe
HORNING, OCTOBER ,4. IADS
sword belt of white web. ,
Officers of the first class wear a black beaver
cocked hat with a black silk cockade, white os
trich feather border and a treble, gold bullion
loop tassel with hangers. Officers of the second
class wear a similar hat, with a double gold
bullion loop and plain gold tassels without
lisnger. ' ' .
New regulations have been adopted concern
ing the dress of lord lieutenants. These gentle
teen wear a cos tee of scarlet cloth with two rows
of silver-plated buttons down the front, nine in
each row, the wsut'.belt to run between the
J i a .
. 7-T H
eighth" and ninth buttons. The skirt of the coat
is . edged in white ; the collar, flaps, cuffs and
slashes are "trimmed with silver embroidery.
Oak-leaf and acorn embroideries are worn by
lieutenants from Welsh counties, thistle for
Scotch counties and the shamrock by officer
from Ireland.
A black silk cocked hat ia surmounted by,.
white swan feathers ten inches in. length, with
fed feathers under them. Trousers' are of blue
cloth. " :
These radiant garments are modified to st
degree by the court dress of the lord chancellor,
judges and legal lights entitled to wear siDc
robes. Legal dress calls for a black silk velvet
coat, pigeon-breasted, closing with notched but
tons, round gauntlet cuffs and black silk lining.
The lord chancellor and fudges of the high court
are distinguished from others in the law by black
velvet buttons; the others wear cut steel
A curious part of the garment is. a wig bsffi
attached to the coat at Ihe back of the neck,
, wherein the tail of a wig may be inserted. With
the coat is worn a waistcoat of black silk velvet!
without a collar, closing with four, buttons of a'
similar size, matching those on tho coat Black
silk hose ' and black patent -leather shoes are
worn. Lace ruffles are about the neck and at the
: cui?3. The hat is black silk, cocked. j
'' -Ordinary folk presented at court wear Tel-,
vet dress. The coat is of blr.ck velvet, to be worn
open, revealing a white satin or black silk velvet
waistcoat. Heretofore persons have occa-,'
- sionally appeared at court wearing a waistcoat
made of white corded silk or white marcella, and
special! instructions are now given that this if
irregular. ' . . - )
The body of the coat Is Hne3 with wbJt
silk, the tails, with black. ,
Breeches are of black silk velvet, with' three
small, steel buttons ' and steel buckles at the
knees. Hosiery must be black silk,: the shoes
black patent leather with steel buckles. A black
beaver or silk cocked hatr is proper. A sword
with - ft' steel hilt, black scabbard and steel
mountings is carried on a black-velvet frog at- -tached
to a black silk web waist belt'worn under
the waistcoat
i AMERICAN AMBASSADOR'S GARB
When Mr. Reid, the ambassador from the
United States, appears at court he wears a frock
dress. . His cost is a black evening dress coat,
lapelled, possibly faced in silk; a black or white
evening dress vest, breeches made of plain black
dress material or stockinet, with three small
black cloth buttons and a small jet or, black
buckle at the knee. His hosiery is black silk, his
. shoes plain court style, tied with bows, his head-
gear a corded silk folding cocked hat with ro
sette. A white evening dress bow tie is impera
tive. His gloves are white. Evening dress with'
- trousers are worn at levees. JThe ambassadors
from Switzerland and Cuba also wear this dress.
Ambassadors, ministers and attaches from other
countries wesr uniforms according to regula
tions of their own courts.
With all court uniforms soft-bceomed' shirts
with white cuffe are advised.. Plain gold or pearl
studs should be worn on the shirt fronts. When
breeches are worn, the undergarments should ex
tend only to tbe knees. One of the most impor
tant rrgulstions is that concerning tbe width of
embroidery, which marks the rank of the wearer.
Compliance with these regulations will obviate
errors and mistakes at court -