Co7rttt, 1831, by America tun', Great Brltala Itlgtta Reserved;
1
'4
4
Sl?aler loal Syrbolie
: , of quality of Inherit
ance Uorn I3y Dauters
of TuIti-TilIio9aires.
Qoas vuitl?
tisial Bord Uorn
xritl7 poster
te
Uf?ite
ft
J-.J
'fit
s9
mHR subject If cloekss bo. considering
I '' past ' perform ances, I know that
J. i'', pDDt about tbe closke Of eociety are
- expected figures of tpeech before I be
' gin to discuss wltb proper gravity h
graceful cloaks designed for tbt flgur of
tht sinuous ladlet of society..
But Cholry, my husband, who really sop
piled all tht previous puns, baa fright-,
. fat cold in bis head -th common or gar
den arloty of cold area though be la
, a Knickerbocker, Cfcolly is deter ! Bat
, ' i Coolly, at preaeat, la ao Ml There la, of
- count, : the mantle of charity whlob In,
. society ia used te eloa and Py
" ambition, .For tbt benefit of charity, tbt
society woman bai tbt few cbaneet of btr
lifetime to poet before tbt footlights,
V Bach wonderful Uvlng plctarta were those
we bad Itat eeasonl Id Boatos, Chicago
and Near York there waa a mixture of
' Ttnlty, gaytty and ebarity, and the great
., eat of those waa vanity.
But It la a poor paycblc wart of vanity
tbat blow no one any good, and tick
babies in hospital! and Indigent women
were benefited thereby.
But now for cloaka of aatla, of en p pie
broadcloth aud of costly furt. Cloaka, long,
full and Bowing gracefully, will be of more
.. Importance tbla seaeoa tbaa bttberto, for
often they are really draperies tbat art a
part of th costume Itself. They will be
, worn in the afternoon more than In pre
vious leasons, and black satin cloaks of tbe
sort that our grandmothers loved will again
be In style. Dull shades such as wistaria
and eggplant are favorites, and many of the
new cloaks from Paris are without any
blatant trimming, but tbey are amazing In
design. Tbe material la tied In knots, bang
In fettouna from tbt shoulder and looks
as though It were draped on the figure
without any teams, Long, heavy taaaels
bang from every possible point.
Simple cloaks, of court, there are, and
: tbe very sweetest" and aim pleat of these
are adaptation of tbe Sbaker model. Tbest
never go out of style, Tbe Shakers at Mt
Lebanon and at West rittafleld, near tbe
fashionable villa colony at Lenot, make
. cloaka. la all, tbe soft, tweet candy colors
beloved by brides and debutantes. HIM
Dura'nd, tbe daughter of Btr Mortimer Du
rand, when her father waa Ambassador to
tbls country, spent the Bummer la Lenox,
and so dellgbted was she witb tb Shaker
cloaks tbat speedily the , daughters of tbe
mqlti-mllllonalret followed ber lead and
. adopted them for evening. Tbe cloak orig
inally meant "unspottednee from tbe world
. and equality of inheritance,"' and tbey were
made only in dull drab colors. Bat over tbe
" glittering spangled frock tbey are tossed by
tbt gay butterfly girt of the social world.
Off to tbe dance in tbt cloak tbat signifies
tbe principles of Mother Ann Ltel Off to
Sherry's for tbt supper with ebampagne,
tquabs and alt tbe rich viands In tbe cloak
of tbe febakers, who attll adhere to tbe
principle tbat a vegetable diet has "a hap
plfjlng Influence oa tbt' mind." For tbe
"bapplfylng influence" wt In society de
pend upon tbe champagne bubble. Purls, let It be expUlned, Is now peopled
Tbe original cloak of tbt Bhakers waa with pen-and-ink ladles. The fad was bora
very abort Sometimes one sees tbls model; at Ostend, where tableaax vtvant Ilk the
It falls only to tht waist lint and baa a dra wings by Beardsley were given during
small cape tbat falls over tbt arm. Lately, August So the fad quickly arrived la
bowever, It his been made mocb like tbt Paris, and baa been brought serosa tbe
Coonemarra doak worn by the blne-eytd oceaa by returning travellers. Tes, even
girls of Ireland, who go po take tbelr seats o New Tork. women ere trying to look like
on tbe wtehlng-stonet In tbe hope ef baling pen-and-ink drawings. In tbe society pa
tbelr heart's desire. ' pers tbat come from London there are all
Aa an adjunct of tbe Beardsley eeetomet aorta of queer poster olctorea placed la a
tier UJ be trunr black cloaks lined with blark border, and these era 17 Illustrations
wblte. ana white cloaks lined with black, are used as models by the dressmakers.
The New Butterfly Dance.
royefyo, (Japdouraf;,
tarjdaripar)d ljjoorisl?
oats
Erripe
to
A3
fobbd-of
R5 ,Saii54
to ffla
lri5toeratiQ
Taptls.
1.
V
fit
ft
B
"in.
latest cxronent of clr.aslcal 4s a c- be baa succeeded la combining tbt aklll tf
; Is ill's Thrills Monkman. wbt the trained dancer with tbat poetry of me
appear In tb third art ef tne noa waicn nss nitnerto Dee a ine tuiataaa-
eaual'-al play "Eatteraiea." at tbt ApoUo log feature of tbe recent revival of tbt
Tbeatr Id London. An English paper ancient Greek style ef dancing,
printed this criticism of Miss Monkmaa'a 'Tbt management consider that to obtain
sUctliig: "This girl, who rtnaot be mora tbe perfection of poetic charm, tba dance
ttiaa seventeen, and la remarkably pretty, .should ba danced by a young girl Jaat bot
tfpeare as a butterfly with gauae wings flog late womanhood, rather tbaa by a lady
and a skirt which was little more this wboae cbarms are more ma tared. There
wfchtfjrrr The ortr rererlsc en tbe eppte is cot the slightest soggeatioa of in dell-p-.rt
of her body waa a brest platf of eacy elder in tba dance or In tba eot
jew1i and a few striata ef glittering tome."
states. Tbe yecn; (M Is aa rxcefleat Mian Monk-man, wbe is a very grarefal
daacer, and nliberuek la bet movements' and alee a pretty wostaa was bora la
there it netblag su:rrtj'r or ebjerttoaablt, Jaaoary, 1892. and aada ber flrat appear
Jt la n ejt-ewtltn wbetber tbe art ef tbt a are am tbe stage wbes she was twsivt,
stajre Is tdvaured hj tbe tatrodactlo ef n She as tbe daughter ef Mr. Jark Barrtooa,
girt awrUany ca se natter hew poetse wt tbt EcrentrX Oob. of Leadon.
ber rc ac4 eUnelrf aaay be. Tbe fact"
th-.t M'es Uentrwaa la loot hoCS'.ng tatt
wasi tretntnatee tbe, deebtfel taett
f eUtRg aa atttewtae ebamtcg act wttft
U11 lBtrMftrUit) ? sack Aaere."
It rep!y t Cbla, tbt atr.afnMrtt af tbt
theatrt aaadt vlgeret pretest. It tb
rtt tf wkkb tbey saUs
T tea a geese et dalaa fbat tb iae
ia bU tXUtM ne4 peetle, . wtdv
a. u at far to advase f f j
Mcy trt t tatde dtestdag as) eaant
te vrt. tt w vlv by Mr. WCJ
9 art U tt ftrr tt tb fctftt Uat. tag .
DoITi LacL
Margie waa lad its'iin .i t em Lr
deU, wen the enddealy stpTed work tod
trd te krr aratbvr:
"Ob. ntaiama, wtat e
tb ttdttzaed.
"Vbat 1 tbe U-awV. a
U seerler.
-I Mevted t mete mf 4nll Wret -
xpia44 Margie, "tad 1 t'iere t l
gatag t teta east aa apranjt Wejcaa
BoM Cewp!.
J Ihlxtr
kt;i It'll in
III I
mm
. P nr.
A A Broadcloth Evening Qoak of Wisturia Oilor with One End Thrown Over Left
Shoulder lo Protect Chest and Making a Graceful Drapery. Trimmed with Widt
Band of Embroidery with Delicate Blue, Silver and Gold Combined. The Collar
Is of Dnchtstt Ltet with a Pale Blue Ribbon of Liberty Satin Tied at One Side.
B A Cloak el Apricot-Colored Chiffon Velvet with White Satin Lining Folded Back
. in Two Ravers at Each Side. Ends Are Knotted and Tassels Are Used as Trim
ming. Large Artificial Rosea Make the Collar and the Waiatcoat ia Apricot-Color
Embroidered with Silver and Gold.
C Gorgeous Oriental Dinner Coat of Red Satin with Bird and ' Dragons Embroidered
in Green jvith Gold.
D A Cloak of Donkey-Gray Broadcloth Lined with White Satin' and Trimmed with tailless sort nd only trimmed wltb wide But Cholly saya tbat I lo my South Amerl-
were Inserted like to many exclamation
polnta arranged wltb mathematical txtct-
i?f J II ' oe Tb roTtl w d,rlSl by th
clety bad our ermine In atoriga for yeas
In Jact, until tbt farriers decided to emit tbt
tails. Mrs. P. A. Valentine baa stunning
optra cloak of tailless ermlue uioimed with
wldt borders of tbe fur, lo which tbe tails
ar Inserted. Often tbt Ilttlt appendage
mm maAa IntA taeMl.llkA npnamjtnte oe lntA
' I fiSk . lit V N a unaaea-llke cbaln that bane from tba
collar In front. Tbar It so danger tbat
tailless artnlnt will look like chean coney
1 -:SNrV Ifv II 'u (wWe.1 tom tD mx nlxnttl that
vvl il K. Fi onct uved bapplly on Coney itiand), for it
"tl lL fl rat oetatlfully, whereaa with tht cheaper 4
And Was there ever aucb a droll proces
sion as when we go to dinner parties
when wt troop Into a house, leaving ear
carriages, one after tht other, aa wt past
II, fx jr under tbe awning oa our way to the
,aI III! jrl . door! Tbt dinner cloaks this rtu art
gorgeous, even terrifying In design. For
thil proor see illustration c. wnen we enter
residence for a dance or a dinner, It la
like a pageant representative of many sav
age tribes. Under tbe awning we paas
and Into tbe full glare of tbe golden light
tbat streams from tbe open door. For In
stance, a person "who is op In tbat sort
ef thing" and who knows the nationality
lull AV all fit anvnvA d nn, lnnk,i Bra Wat,
rWff mlsbt have a hilarious half-botir watcblue
us at we go trooping ia, First, for ex
ample, will coma Mrs. Passetgh, almost de
crepit, who swears off on ber sge (wt can
swear off and about anything we choose
in society) every chance she gets. She has
a gorgeous evening cloak made of bright
yellow, tbe Bmperor'a color in Caina.
and only permissible for those not of royaNvJ
mooa wnen over seventy or is it eighty
III t Mmntl " ' We". ny rate, she Is only
a bit below tbe seventy mark. Then will
come that pitifully tbin Miss Wllbelmlna
Boan-Sharpedget (ber father It of an Old
ffttttily from The Hague), who will go
striding along la Moorish cloak tbat hat
an abaya, a gorgeous sort of vest. Cboliy
laughed to when be explained to me, with
ont eyt 00 Wllhelmlna, as wt hurried In.
tbat a fit, aristocratic Moorish woman al
trt combined with aable In tbt making .of wJ waddlea like a duck to prove tbat sht
magnificent muff. cannot work for living. Then tbt gor-
Ermlne will, of course, be appropriated geout mandarin Jackets I One really ex
by tho potttt girls. But tbe aristocratic pects to tee tbe Queen of Sbeba carried In
oner cloak of ermlnt mutt be made of tbe on palanquin and bringing up tbe rear.
. . ... . . V).. A -1t l . It. A. W n i . 1
'4
f!
Heavy Silver Cord and Tassels.
Illustrators In Parlt now earn big sums If yards upon yards of valuable lace on one
tbey choose by doing tbt lint work for black of Mrs., Lehrs costnmes se tbat It waa
costumes, making an artistic arrangement unnecessary to cut It Tbe day tbat Cbol-
of tbe black and white. . A auperb gandou- iy' cold was to bad (of course, like ail
rah cloak ( garment copied after tbat of men, be almost aeared himself into pneo
tbs Kabylet lo North Africa) will be cat, monla) bt said bt ' thought perbapa he'd
bands f tbt other kind tht nld-fasbloned can poncho make a conclusion daixllng
variety of ermine, In wWlch- little black tails enough for a grand opera parade.
How Science Explains That "Sixth Sense,
CLAIRVOYANTS and persona of an In or discomfort; while tht flsb, provided
tensely superstitious nature art aomt- wltb awlmmlng-bladder, feels so precise
tim said to possess "sixth sense" a sensation, when obliged to rise or sink
tbat is, tbey are conscious of tbe exUta la the water, that be la enabled to resume
ence of things which are not to bt realised bis normal position by tbe action of this
through taate, toncb, sight, smell or bear- organ,
lug.- s "n tne other hand. In certain oceanic
But such an appeal to tbe brain can cephalopoda, there bare been found, on tbe
hardly be ssld to be through any body caudal fln, aptclat eyea wltb opaque lenses,
"sense." and therefore tb "sixth .sense" organa adapted to tbe perception of beat
One of tbe most original cloaks to wear gold and silver threads across the stems referred to floes not really belong in that rays,
wltb a pen-and-ink costume Is of enow- ,( tbt notes and through tbt ban. Of ta'egory Science points eat, however, that "Senses simply differentiated In man may
white broadcloth witb wldt border made MaM Cbollv bad a lot to say about using terrain animate bave tba advantage over be found laolaud In anlmnla. Th.
of appllcatlona of black velvet Ton look the dollar algn instead of tbt clef algn, bat man tbat tbey are actuated by not merely tlons of banger, thirst tbe reaction af the
at tbt border, and yon note a charming de- j wtBt tb, wajrji worked out artistically six aensea, bnt in some cases of even ad- blood on tbe brain cells, alae conatttute aup-
for example, from wbltt liberty tatin and
will be lined wttb black aatln of tbe aame
sort. The black abowt down tbt front
where tba doak parte ia a looplike drapery
at the back, while black pipings tmskt ef
fective llnet on tbt snow-wbltt ground.
better choose "Tbe Merry Widow" wait
for my border, and In tbt end tbat la
what we really decided to have. Tbt
cloak Itself will be Boumanla la style,
and not of black and wblte exclusively, bat
with a trailing vine embroidered wltb floe
algn wltb borlsontal llnet and egg-shaped
figure at tbt end of etemsA Tblstler made
tf black velvet application tnd line em
broidery silk, you observe, art Cleverly In
troduced in tbt border. Just such cloak
and correctly, and new be la doing it
btaatlfully.
Cholly la s clever!
Tbt dollar siga fat bowevtr, eonsplcooM
o tbt loag cloaka of sable, chlncillU or
waa designed by aa artlat for a gay friend ermine, for tnly a billionaire eat bay for
of mint. Her parlor trick or atunt, wa hlm Hassles aable cloak ef tb oct
really call It In society) Is to sing Scotch 1 Mw Atbtr day. The akin r so
songs, for ber fstber Is one tf those shin perfectly matched that the dark marking
ing steel magnates of Pittsburg born In ja the for meet I polnta dewa tbt sesm
Bobble Burnt country. '"Annie Laurie." ,B UcK mmVnf Vii u from th
wben she alngt tt by tb llgbt tf tbt fra- w tB hem. On would think the
grant, Uyberry caadlet, whlc are eon- a,rk Ud(i4 nttt pi.iBtea on th f ur wlU a
doclvt to teaUment, always make one cry. t.rtmh. Cklnckllla. thm nat Mriakahla tnr.
So one of tb artists wbe tat In tbt caadl ta the aame dm tbe moat popular far
iigat, noes anoraa vj bt aaoQa yeaag glrla. airs. Bmitb
vote, came ber devoted alar, and bt tt sjcKUa, wn has bees a amasii
V . A - Jk fitm MlmU IJlria1' Iia. ... .....
w mm mmw w - rtSSfTII St IWDOft
der for ber wtlte broad doU evealag cloak. pcTt ehlchllla, tad
ay oca wn soon iiboti iw auaaie borwngk always ba
eaa canny raa ta
ong. Dellcat Bower.
dltlooal special sense. ' plementary tenaea: aucb. too. la tbe muaco
in aescrthtng some or tnese pneoomen iar aenas that glvea tbe Impress! of
la tb Parla Cosrooa. tb naturailat. B. weight and the aenae that furntabe an Idea
Heriebar. says: of the abap of bodlea.
-A sense Is defined by tb action of "As regards bearing, even when there It
certain excitant oa th organs, followed by auditive sense, there may exist a eensl-
a phenomenon of consciousness dlffJealt t wilty to vibration, reading In tbe bonea.
.. Ihla la very delicate To flab and In certain
"Vlaloa la tbe teflon of Ugbt oa tbt eye wermfk
well-deflaed aarfae f taategwn cosv -j.mong BptcttX 0 of MDnM ,
ttltatlo. la all .n.naUl b,t eve wo.. in)lB,te w, BOt? koJbsTltng
tbt ty doe. not txtet tber. may atW b th, .errnr. of .fjuitoea, for lndicaU."J
rctlo. to light, a. I. th eworau the pcriodldt, of -T, mo7e.t".a1 rt!
Tbi has been called . dermsttU' top- , whJCB
satloo. laiit la k Mmtm mnri - n4..i,,
A
" Ordlaare aaBlHlreeS t llgbt mat bt m-t . .. .
u.iiia. - mil m pifte or I urn sragf QI
HoUlna nbd!vtded lata tw nrts liBs!o tad .v. . , . . . " V . '
Dh!T.f lurt 'lmtUrl' "It 1. ai, . -,,I(k MN- th.t lnfort.7n
tbe Dnckeas f Mart- t,oa era tact preeeur tad ee f anlB.a, ... h 1
aa ew eaaak af tkla . . .v.v--- .n w w taevementt by means f ft
note and recognise tbt u. fBr -per.. lo "V.-IIj k. - f fluid In tb wmlclrrttar
rrv ko-ever. win .. an . .V tVL'?"?? " tb ear. Tblt It tb c- U ...
tbM mnslcnl border g ( traaia, , tb krw.d, tB.t Hb chlf- marmw.Tkl. d.ffervaL'.tl. f ' I
".TJtl'ZZl wtthu1aa! - d r-e f or hut.nc. -a, b es totrtTta ebiwn po.u..iyi tb. T fj' 5
tptcn. for tb deb wttb tbto tec tie UfHI , btac, fk!1ToB A11 rxpe,. Vr. ttM, ( ,M w umpftmn r at- , ,bf Urr,lt m
..U, baa tlaUl Mcrtt.tb- nM t!alM, . trln M Jn Wben hked. w, th.Y.f e7laai-. .aaf- ''M U In motlen. Tbla pbenosi-
Ucbed t It. . relied In tbla way. htafla, f ctnrM. art fected. Trb abonld Ibmfar b vW4 .
In fart, tb ate! border art not baM etdm carried t tb tbeatrt, bet for tk Bt ihre tbeset tttslUv te txtsv 11 ,b fersi of as
tt nplct as tbat ngly Orcte key. tsoat tempt eort, wben tb lesg far tnr. bt tad l , nw tea tkknaat la enaaed by tb to-
wblc I taw xnbroMr4 wltb heavy etlb teat la wrn t tb afteraeaa. tber ar . -Aloag tbia tie saes It at aJaraya a Mttttoa tf tbla fluid ha a rwtcl.
Be f dad grea a a wld berdcr that MrprMag dwmtlew. A bird f ardia rt at4Wrd fertaia a class ka wttb r tb bear daring i tVitoi
rwUted a claai f blecwtt-eolored broad do:, asay bav ft bill pre let tb far aei ia utefraaat tba. Tr mi cenatartt fort m maintain vertkaj pet.
Cboty It M bsry deslgnlag a aa astral t ore a re ealerrd plamag will esaerr la reasar hs tb ssanfJaa ' wbr be 8v tie- vcat af rerttramy brfeg ate
" ne wear a wh cloak for sae. Be la lost aa aatck enrvtag eprara. Try ft 0y lat aad auslfeae UeaeatB t bias !y aaMit aacat ta tbe eaa!. ad tberefer teeaa.
Md ?ul Z1 viri m. Ail U tf a ef H FVi? UZU errf4 Mo krtw ebiff a4 grgoi prvys teat nr" by tjmtaa tf vta-bia bag be b rSJ a trat -Utk
A fcltek4-wMt poster girt tblt
Wttr fte wear a wait ua "